HI 


U  . 


VERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 
AT    LOS  ANGELES 


Robert  Ernest  Cowan 


50th  Comskkss.  i    HOC: 


K  OF    KKPHKSKNTATIVK 


I    I)<Xl  MKV 

i     No.  -Ml. 


yik  im)  irr 


rr        1 1 


isi-:  of  the  I'.  S.  Revenue  Cutter  Hem 


OVERLAND   EXPEDITION 


Kni;   Till-: 


M-;iJ  EF    OF    Til  K    W  1 1  A  (VERS    IX 
A  R(,TI<:    OCEAX, 


NOVEMBER  '>/.  I8H7.  TO  SEPTEMBER    1 3,  I8J)8. 


WASHINGTON: 

(GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE. 

i  s  H  |l. 


TKKASriiY     I  »KI'AKT.MKNT, 
Document   No.  L'K'l. 


c  <>  x  t  k  x  rrs 


Ki 


Infroducti  >ry 
Secretary  L.J.  (  la.iiv: 

I  nsl  met  ions  to  < •  <  >i 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1  < 1 1 •  r  of  expedition 
< ';i])i .  Francis  Tunic: 

Report  of  arrival  of  Hear  at  Fnalaska 
'turn  of  Bear  to  Dutch  Harbor  reported 
■in-  reported  at  Norton  Sound  by 
■ports  movements  of   Hear  since  June  2->.  I  sits 
<  trders  by.  to  First    Lieut.  I).  FT.  Jar  vis  to  take  charge  of  overland  exp 
dition 
e*s  First  Lieut.  1).  II.  Jarvis: 
*""  Report  of.  from  Point    Farrow 

Detailed  report  of  overland  expedition 
Instructions  by.  to  Second  Lieut.  E.  P.  Bertbolf 
l  irders  to  Sur»\  S.  J.  Call 
Receipt  for  reindeer  from  Artisarlook 
Receipt  for  reindeer  from  W.  T.  Lopp 
Second  Lieut.  F.  P.  Bertbolf: 

Report  of  overland  expedition  to  Point    Hope 
Report  of  movements  while  separated  front  main  expedition 
Sin-    S.J.  Call: 

Medical  report  of  overland  expedition  by 

Reports  with  II.  IF  Marsh.  M.  D..  post-mortem  examination 
Philip  Man  n 
\.sst.  Stir.-.  F.  II.  Woodruff: 

Summary  of  medical  reports  by 
Request  for  aid  front  crews  of  whalers 

Account  of  the  reindeer  used  on  the  overland   expedition    . 
;  'hart  of  the  cruise  of  the  Fear 


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LIST  (  >!■'    ILLrsTWATlOXS. 


President   William  McKinle\ 

Secretary  of  tli"  Tivasury.  Lyman  -1.  (tu^i' 

(.'apt.  ( '.  F.  Shoemaker,  chief   Revenue-*  'utter  Service 

Revenue  cutter    Bear 

(  M'tioT-  of  ill"  revenue  cutter  Bear 

Dub  li    Harbor.  Alaska 

St.    Lawrence    r slam  I 

Forecastle  mi    riie  Bear 

vVhahue;  station  at    P  linl   Hope.  Alaska,  -prim: 

Whaliim'  station  at  Point  Ho]ie.  Alaska,  winter  ...  ... 

Killing  <leer  for  the  whalers.  Point   Barrow 

•,_■  Ki  indeer  at   P<  ii  nt  1  Jam  >w  . 

Officers  composing'  overland  expedition 
Alexis  Kalenin's  house  a1  Tununak 

I  )ei  ■■  t  rain .  sin  iwin.u'  -!•■■':  ■  \ —  . 

Eskimo  iIm.us  ami  loaded  sled 
Harbor  of  St.  Michael 

'-  camp  mi  the  -1  >  >re  nf   \i  irti  m  Si  iuml 
Xa!  i\'es  i if  f-Ji ill  ivin  1  Sax- 
Start  illU   fl'i  '111   (roll  ivin   1  Say 

Portion  of  reimle.-r  1  e  t-<  1 
if  reindeer  herd    . 

Re1  fnlltil    seal   h 

W.  T.  Lopp.  sii]ierintenden1  of  Teller  reindeer  station 

:'  iwii- 

K  e   Si  111] 

Native  man  and  woman  from  Point   Hope  Village 
Tern  cai    o  a'    l«-\    i 

Sill  AV  llo".-e- 

Whaler  I5.-P  edeiv  at   Point  Franklin 

Xati\  e  hut.  mh  .w  i-ul  ranee 

( )id  (Tovenjiiieiii   ;  'fu^'e  station.  Point  ]  >arn  >\v 

Mr.  ('.  1).  Brower's  house  at   Point  Barrow. 

s-  line  i  if  the  shipwrecked  men  . .    _ 

■  a1    Point    Barrow  where  wrecked   crews  lived   before  expedition 
arrived 
Pri  si  lyterian  missim  •   1  Sam  iw 

Native  houses  at   Point    Barrow  village 
Tearing  down  the  ■■  ( )ld  House"  for  fuel. 
Whaler  Rosario  before  she  was  crushed.  Poinl   Barrow 
llaulin.u' meat  to  the  vessels  easi  or    Point  Barrow.. _ 

in 


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4-2 
11 
Ki 


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LIST    <>F     [LUSTRATION: 


Ka.--iNW. 


Lu.-t  i-i  >al   fri  'in  rile  Xavarch 

Whaler-  Xi-wpurt  ami  I- carlo- in  tin- ice  cast  uf  Point   Barmw 

Whaler  .Teaiiie  in  tin'  ire 

SIimI  wiili  -ail.  from  Uer-chel  I-land 

(  luiim'  <  nit  mi  ill'-  ici'  t'nr  whales  in  April 

Ketui'iiiii.u'  t'rujii  whalinr,  in  June 

(  ' n 1 1  i 1 1 u'  1 1] i  while  whale- 

The  miilni.u'ht  >nn 

Breakum  up  "f  the  ice  in  the  -umnier  at  Point   Barrow 

Returning  from  a  'luck  hunt  at  Point  Barrow 

Whaler-  hauling  ice 

KuMirin  crushed  by  the  ice  at  Point  Barn  >w 

Bla-tiim'  "hi  wreck  fur  firewood,  near  The  Rosario 

Reindeer  henl  in  summer.  PuinT  Barrow 

Seals 

Feediim'   the   ill  i;j> 

i  »n  the  Kuvuk  River  . 

Native  village.  Yukon  Delta,  in  winter 

Midday  halt  for  tea  ami  hard  bread  while  mi  a  -ick  call 

Native  village  mi  Sledge  [sland. 

Kskini'  i  ^'nivi'  at  Pi  lint  Hope 

An  "Id  uTiivc  at  Pi  pint  Hope 

Hauliny  sup]ilie>  tii'in  the  Bear  t"  the  whale  -hip- 

I  iear  ami  Jeam-tte 

Prying- ' pff  ice  after  a  bla-t.  Au-n-t  r.  Point   Barruw 

View  fn nil   the  Jeallette's  l-l'nW   UeSt 

The  Bear  u'ettinu-  free  from  the  ice  pack-.  Aimu-t   lti.  lMts 
Track  idiart  uf  crui-e  uf  Puiteil  State-  revenue  steamer  Bear  a 

p-xpeditiuii  in  rl:e  relict  i  .f  whah-r-  in  Arctic  '  )<-i  an.  Novenibe 

September  l:j.  l-'.is_._    .      ..    


INTRn  I)  I' ('TORY 


Karly  in  November.  |s;i7,  ii  was  brought  to  the  attention  of  the 
I 'reside ni .  by  1  h<'  ( 'li amber  of  ( 'online roe  and  the  people  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, (al..  thai  eijii'lit  vessels  of  the  whaling  Heel  were  oaujiiil  by  the 
ice  in  the  vicinity  of  PoiiM  Harrow  and  their  crews  were  in  ureat 
danger  of  st  ai'val  ion.  The  danuer  was  so  iniminent  and  serious,  and 
the  necessity  for  relief  so  urgent,  thai  flie  President  immediately 
ordered  an  expedition  to  be  titled  out. 

Lit  1  lo  hope  was  held  oiU  by  1  hose  experienced  in  work  in  the  Arctic 
reti'ions  1  ha1  anything  could  be  accomplished  by  an  expedition  in  the 
winter  season,  but  by  t he  order  of  the  President  and  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Hon.  Lyman  .I.  (iafi'c,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  the  1'.  S. 
revenue  cutter  II  n r  was  prepared  for  the  expedition  by  the  Chief  of 
the  1  ievenue-(  'lit  t  er  Service. 

The  plan  of  the  ex  pod  it  ion  was  drawn,  and  the  whole  placed  under 
(apt.  Francis  Tuttlo,  \l.  (.'.  S..  whose  experience  and  ability  ('spe- 
cially lilted  him  for  such  a  command.  The  officers  and  crew  were 
all  volunteers,  and  although  the  Ht-nr  had  jusl  returned  from  a  six 
nionlhs'  cruise  in  Arctic  waters,  she  was  prepared,  lilted  out.  and 
sailed  from  Seattle.  Wash..  November  i'7.  ISU7,  .just  three  weeks  from 
t  he  date  of   her  arrival  from  the  North. 

Ten  in  out  lis  later  she  ret  urned  auain  to  Seatt  le,  brinjjfinji"  four  crews 

of  wrecked  whalers,  and    having   fully  carried    out    all    the  orders  and 

accomplished    all    the    pur  poses    of    the    expedition    without     loss    or 

accident  of  an v  kind. 

3 


LETTKR  OF   I  N [ST'IU' ( 'TI(  )NS. 


TREASFRY     DEPARTMENT, 

Offtce  of  the  Secretary, 
Washington,  I).  ('.,  X^nremh&r  l-~>,  1807. 

Sir:  The  best  information  obtainable  gives  the  assurance  of  truth 
to  the  reports  that  a  Heel  of  eight  whaling  vessels  are  icebound  in  the 
Aretic  Ocean,  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  Point  Barrow,  and  that 
the  _•>•">  persons  who  were,  at  last  accounts,  on  hoard  these  vessels 
arc  in  all  probability  in  dire  distress.  These  conditions  call  for 
prompt  and  energetic  action,  looking  to  the  relief  of  the  imprisoned 
whalemen.  It  therefore  has  been  determined  to  send  an  expedition 
to  the  rescue. 

Believing  thai  your  long  experience  in  arctic  work,  your  familiarity 
with  the  region  of  Arctic  Alaska  from  Point  Barrow,  south,  and  the 
coast  line  washed  by  the  Bering  Sea,  from  which  yon  but  recently 
ret urned,  your  known  ability  and  reputation  as  an  able  and  compe- 
tent officer,  all  especially  fit  you  for  the  trust,  you  have  been  selected 
to  comma  ml  the  relief  expedition.  Vour  ship,  the  Bear,  will  be  offi- 
cered by  a  competent  body  of  men  and  manned  by  a  crew  of  your  own 
selection.  The  ship  will  be  fully  equipped,  tilted,  and  provisioned 
for  the  perilous  work  in  view,  for  such  it  must  be  under  the  most 
favorable  condit  ions. 

it  is  of  course  well  understood  that  at  this  advanced  season  of  the 
year  the  route  to  the  Arctic  Ocean  through  the  Bering  Straits  will  be 
closed  to  you.  and  because  of  this  known  condition  you  will  not 
attempt  it.  Therefore  your  efforts  will  be  directed  to  establishing 
communication  by  means  of  an  overland  expedition  with  the  whaling 
fleet,  not  only  for  the  purpose  of  succoring  1he  people,  but  to  cheer 
them  with  the  information  thai  their  relief  and  ultimate  rescue  will 
be  effected  as  soon  as  the  condition  in  Bering  St  raits  will  permit  your 
command  to  advance. 

Willi  this  purpose  steadily  in  view,  you  will  prepare  an  expedition 
of  at  least  two  commissioned  officers  and  one  forward  or  petty  officer 
of  your  command,  to  undertake,  from  a  landing  1  hat  you  will  effect, 
the  journey  overland  to  Poinl  Barrow.  Von  will  assign  an  officer  to 
the  charge  of  this  expedition,  furnishing  him  with  such  written  inst  ruc- 
tions for  the  government  of  his  party  as.  in  your  .judgment  and  dis- 
cretion, will  dictate  as  most   likelv  to  furl  her  the  success  of  the  under- 


fi 


( '  i ;  r  i  s  i •:   <  >  i 


r.  s.  kevent'e   <  utter   hear. 


taking.  This  parly  should  be  prepared  while  ymi  art'  en  nmlc  and 
be  ready  upon  leaving  Fnalaska.  bound  north,  to  take  advantage  of 
Tin-  lirsl  opporl  unity  afforded  for  a  landing.  They  should  be  amply 
provided  and  fully  equipped  forardie  t  ravel  in  sueeessl'ully  accom- 
plish i  he  I  ryi  iiu  journey  and  work  whieli  will  be  ahead  of  t  hem  from 
l  he  landing  point .  You  will  make  your  own  select  ion  from  1  he  per- 
sonnel of  yoiii-  coiiiuiaiid.  volunteers  preferred,  of  I  he  officers  whom 
von  will  deem  he>i  lilted,  physically  and  otherwise,  to  encounler  ihe 
hardships  incident  in  the  trip  in  view.  There  are  several  plans 
deemed    feasible,  all    leading  to   the   same   end.    by    tin-   adoption    and 

c\  cent  ion  of  MiiniMii f  which,  the  primary  ])iirj)ose  of  t  he  expedii  ion. 

as  above   Lnvcn.  can    he  accomplished.      The   lirsi    and    ureal    need   of 

the   whalemen   will    probably  be    f 1.      It    is    believed    thai    the   only 

practicable  method  of  yelling  il  to  ihem  is  to  drive  it  on  the  hoof. 
To  ei'feci  ill  is  ol)jeci  and  ihe  other  ends  sel   forth  abo\c  it  is  proposed  : 

First .  Thai  leaving  Fnalaska  you  proceed  nort  h  with  your  coin  maud 
to  (ape  Nome,  passing  bcTween  Nunuvak  and  Si.  MaMh.ews  Island,  in 
siuhl  of  Nunivak:  thence  north  between  St.  Lawrence  Island  and  the 
com-'  of  Alaska,  carefully  noiinii'  the  e.\ien1  and  condition  of  the  ice. 
if  any  is  met.  keeping  well  over  to  the  mainland,  the  objeel  bcinv.  to 
a-certain  where  there  is  ice.  or  indical  ions  of  it.  in  Norton  Sound.  If 
the  way  is  clear,  or  you  can  by  any  means  land  the  party  on  the  north 
shore  of  Norton  Sound,  between  ('ape  Nome  and  ('ape  Prince  of 
Wales,  lint  ives  can  be  com  m  u  ideated  withal  eit  her  (  ape  Nome.  Sled.Lfe 
Is.  a  ml.  I'oinl  lvo<Iiiey.  or  I'oinl  Spencer.  Should  a  InndiiiLi'  be  cfTeci  ed 
a'  any  poini  named,  or  near  it.  a  upianlityof  provisions.  previously 
mad.-  ■■cady.  should  be  landed  ami  cached  t  here.  1  o  be  afterward <  con- 
veyed by  the  natives  in  the  reindeer  station  at  Fori  Clarence,  and 
lefi  in  t  he  care  of  Mr.  Ilreviii'.  From  the  poim  of  land  i  im  wi  11  be^in 
tin-  o\  ei-land  expedii  ion  from  y  nir  command.  above  dwell  upon,  and 
the  oflicei-  placed  in  charge  of  ii  should  be  fully  instructed  upon  ihe 
fi  illow  inu'  genera  1  lines: 

1.  (  oin  munieate  as  ipiickly  as  possible  with  W.  T.  Lopp.  ai  Cape 
Frinceof  Wales;  wiih  a  nal  ive  named  Arl  isarlook  (generally  k  now  n 
as  (  harliei.al  i'oinl  IJodney.  Failing  these,  then  with  Kilties, ,n. 
s  ipe   ini  eiident  ( io\  ernmeiil   reindeer  si  at  ion  at    I  "nalakaleei , 

_'.    The    purpose    is   to   eollecl    from    the    herds   a!     Iiodnov   ami  •  ape 
I'rince    of    Wales     the   entire   available    herds    of    reindeer,  all    in    be 
en  in  I'o  ni    1  iarmw  . 

'■'•.  Mr.  i.opp  i>  ;"  'akc  charge  of  this  herd  and  make  all  necessary 
arrangement  s  for  hen  lets,  sleds,  and  dne.s:  and  tin-  necessary  food  for 
the  use  of  the  parly  niiisi  be  landed  from  t  he  ship.  Such  c  I  ni  him:'  as 
can  :"'  carried  slmiild  be  t  i-an>ported.  h  is  simcested  thai  a  reindeer 
mmhi  earr\   a   liidii   pack  of.  say.    \"  pounds. 

1.  Mr.  I.opp  must  be  fully  impressed  wiih  ihe  importance  ,,\  the 
work   in   ha  ml.  and   wiih    t  lie    necessity  ol'   bend  i  im  every  energy  lo  its 

s]  i-i-d  \     aeeolil  plishmelll  . 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U  S.  REVENUK  CUTTER  HEAR.         7 

.').  lie  inusi  also  make  arragements,  providing  sledges  and  so  forth, 
for    transporting    the  overland   expedition   (from   your  command)   to 

Poinl    Hope. 

I).  When  the  deer  arc  collect ed  and  the  Mail  made,  the  party  from 
the  B'(ir  should  travel  with  them  as  far  as  Kotzebue  Sound,  to  make  cer- 
tain that  they  are  properly  started  on  their  route. 

7.  Thai  point  being  reached,  one  officer  ami  the  necessary  drivers 
should  then  push  on  ahead  along  the  coast  to  Poinl  Hope  leaving  the 
other  officers  and  Mr.  Lopp  to  follow  with  the  herd  over  the  route 
selected  to  reach  Point   Harrow. 

s.  Impress  upon  .Mr.  I.opp  and  the  natives  employed  that  Ihey  will 
be  amply  rewarded  for  their  labor  in  furthering  the  ob.jeel  of  1  he 
expedil  ion. 

'.i.  Arriving  al  Point  Hope,  the  expedition  will  probably  net  news  of 
the  condition  of  things  al   Point   Harrow. 

10.  If  it  should  not  be  known  at  Point  Hope  thai  the  whaling  fleet 
is  icebound  and  its  people  in  distress,  inform  the  white  people  there 
of  t  he  fact  thai  they  will  be  expected  to  take  care  of  such  men  as  will 
be  >eiil  down  later  from   Point   Harrow. 

1  1.  At  Point  Hope  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  expedition  snouhl,  if 
possible,  engage  Jim  <  )'l  Iara  at  thai  place  to  guide  the  party  to  Point 
Harrow,  together  with  as  much  provisions  as  can   be  transported. 

1l\  Then  push  on,  following  the  coast.  Kn  route  parties  of  men 
may  be  met  with,  making  their  way  to  Point   Parrow. 

H).  On  this  stretch  of  coast  (between  Poinl  I  lope  and  Poinl  Harrow), 
at  Point  Lay.  Ice  Cape.  Wainwrighl  Inlet,  and  vicinity  of  Point  Helcher, 
are  natives  who  well  know  the  situation  at  Point  Harrow  and  can  fur- 
nish aid  in  getl  ing  1  here. 

14.  Hpon  arrival  at  Poini  Harrow,  the  officers  of  the  expedition 
should  assemble,  if  possible,  the  masters  of  the  ships.  Charles  H rower 
and  Thomas  (ronton,  of  Liebes's  Whaling  Station.  Mr.  Marsh.  Profes- 
sor Mellhenny,  and  Edward  Aiken,  laic  of  Poinl  Harrow  Refuge  Sta- 
tion, ascertaining  1  he  si1  nation,  quantity  of  available  provisions  and 
clot  hing. 

lo.  If  the  situation  is  found,  as  now  anticipated,  to  be  desperate, 
the  officers  must  lake  charge  in  the  name  of  the  Government  and 
organize  the  community  for  mutual  support  and  good  order,  appor- 
tioning the  provisions  on  hand,  and  slaughter  as  many  reindeer  as 
necessary  (which  it  is  hoped  will  have  arrived)  for  food,  to  make  all 
hold  out  until  August,  1  sos,  when  you  will  arrive  in  the  ll/ar.  Such 
reindeer  as  are  left  will  be  turned  over  to  the  Presbyterian  Mission  al 
Point    Harrow, 

pi.  The  people  at  Point  Harrow  must  be  divided:  some  sent  along 
the  coast   to   Point    Hope  and   others  among  the  natives  to  the  south. 

17.  In  any  even!  a  part,  if  not  all.  of  the  people  from  the  ships 
should  beat  Point  Hope  by  July  1.  where  they  can  be  reached  and 
succored  a  month  earlier  than  al   Point   Harrow   by  your  ship. 


s 


Till'.     T.    >.    UEYENl'E    CUTTER    HEAR. 


1  >.  NO  opport  unity  for  liiini  inif.  sealing,  or  whaling,  whereby  t  lie 
food  supply  may  be  added  to.  imisl  be  neideeted,  ami  provision  niiisl 
I),-  made  t'i  >r  1 1 1  < •  uat  i ves  employed. 

I'.i.  TIlc  ol'iii  it  in  chariie  of  the  overland  expedition,  from  whatever 
poini  started,  musi  beinslruded  to  deal  lirmly  and  judiciously  with 
every  sit  uat  ion  thai  may  confront  him.  particularly  after  arrival  at 
I'oinl   Harrow.  In-  hearing  in  mind  that   In*  represents  the  <Toverninen1 

oil    1  lie  spot. 

Jo.  Having  siieeeeded  in  landinii'  the  overland  expediiioii  with  ade- 
quate in  si  i' net  ions,  you  will  seek  such  harbor  as  you  may  deem  proper 
in  await  results  and  the  opening  of  navigation  in  I  Jenny;  Straits. 

l'1.  Before  parting  with  the  officers  of  the  overland  expedition  you 
will  instruel  them  to  coniniunicate  with  ami  report  progress  to  you. 
should  opport  unity  offer,  idvinu:  1  Hal  ask  a  as  your  address,  as  you  will 
doubtless  return  iliei'e  for  fuel  and  perhaps  to  winter. 

Second.  The  foreuoiny  supposes  thai  you  will  effect  a  landing  and 
start  the  expedition  From  some  poini  on  the  north  shore  of  Norton 
Sound.  If,  however,  because  of  insurmountable  obstacles,  such  as 
imperiling  your  command  or  yetting  fast  in  the  ice.  not  to  escape 
until  spring,  you  should  fail  to  make  a  landing  for  your  party,  you 
will  try  St.  .Michael  or  the  western  end  of  Smart  Island.  Al  St. 
.Michael  the  officer  in  charge  of  the  overland  expedition  will  apply  to 
the  military  commandant.  Colonel  Randall,  ("nited  Slates  Army,  for 
transportation  to  ( 'ape  Pri  nee  of  Wales,  or  enyau'e  Mr.  Kindest  ad  t .  at 
I'nalakik.  or  St.  Michael,  where  he  may  he  wintering  for  the  purpose, 
when  your  instructions  idven  as  above  will  be  carried  out. 

Third.  Finding  it  impossible  to  effeei  a  landing  a1  any  point  in 
Norton  Sound,  you  will  then  1  ry  (  ape  Vancouver,  on  the  north  side  of 
which  is  located  a  Catholic  mission,  where  transportation  can  be 
obtained  to  Andreafsky.  and  thence  to  St .  Michael,  or  you  may  effeei 
a  landing  at  someone  of  the  villages  on  Nunivak  Island,  and  cross 
the  expedit  ion  on  the  ice  to  the  mainland. 

Kourth.  Ilavinii'  exhausted  effort  and  found  it  impossible  to  land  al 
anyone  of  the  named  points  north,  then  try  Bristol  Haw  anywhere 
from  Cape  Newenhani  to  Cii'uslik.  where  natives  can  be  procured  to 
convey  the  expedit  ion  to  Toidak.  Nushayak,  or  I'yashik.  White  men 
will  be  found  at  these  places,  or  any  of  them,  who  can  command  and 
provide  i  ii,.  necessary  transportat  ion  to  IJethel  Mission,  or  to  hind's 
t  rad  in.;'  post .  on  the  K  uskokwim  River.  There  t  rans  port  at  ion  can  be 
procured  to  1  he  Russian  mission  on  the  Yukon,  and  from  t  here  to  St. 
Michael  or  ("nalakleet .  where  the  i list ruct ions  above  id ven  will  become 
opera !  i  vi'. 

from  whatever  poini  the  overland  expedition  is  landed  from  the 
/•''  -  'its  lii->l  aim  will  be  1o  ijel  1  he  reindeer  herd  in  mot  ion  for  Point 
Harrow .  and  you  will  instruct  t  he  officer  id  ven  charge  1  hal  celerity  of 
ino\  eineii!  is  of  lirsi  i  iii  port  a  nee ;   i  hal  he  must .  so  la  r  as  possible,  live 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


9 


on  i  he  couiii  rv  and  change  his  teams  for  I  resit  ones  as  often  as  he  can. 
You  will  be  guided  by  cireu  in  stances  in  outfitting  tins  expedition  from 
the  Hi(tr: 

1.  As  1o   Ihe  point  at   which  h   will  l>e  landed. 

2.  As  to  t  lie  faeilil  ies  available  for  traveling  expedit  iously. 

Fifth.  If  all  the  attempts  to  land  the  overland  expedition  on  the 
Alaskan  coast  of  Bering  Sea  should  be  prevented  by  the  ice,  then 
consider  t  he  possibility  of  sending  t  he  expedition  by  way  of  Kat  mai, 
in  the  Shelikoff  Straits.  Obtain  all  information  relative  to  facilities 
and  time  on  1  his  route  You  arc  aware  that  David  Johnson  made  the 
trip  from  Bethel  .Mission,  on  the  K iiskok wim  River,  to  Katniai  last 
winter  in  thirty-one  days,  and  as  he  was  in  no  haste  it  is  thought  his 
time  can  be  materially  shortened,  if  deemed  practicable  to  attempt 
the  . journey  to  St.   Michael  by  thai   route. 

Before  leaving  ITialaska  bound  north,  make  such  preparations  as 
may  be  possible,  even  over  the  ice.  if  it  promises  success.  Procure 
there  dogs  and  kyaks,  arrange  with  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company 
for  credit  at  any  and  all  of  their  trading  posts  and  connections,  and 
gather  all  the  information,  relative  to  means  of  travel  and  the  lime 
required  through  the  region  from  Bristol  Bay  to  the  Yukon. 

Sixth.  The  routes  and  methods  outlined  in  the  foregoing  are  sug- 
gestions for  your  consideration.  You  doubtless  have  formed  plans 
of  your  own  and  believe  such  can  be  executed  with  belter  success. 

You  will  understand  thai  your  movements  are  not,  by  anything 
herein  contained,  in  the  least  hampered.  The  whole  situation  may 
be  summed   up  under  two  heads,  to  wit  : 

1.  Food  must  be  gotten  to  the  starving  men. 

2.  The  best  and  most  feasible  method  of  doing  1  his  is  to  be  ado  pled. 
If  the  st  raits  were  open  the  whole  thing  would  be  comparat  ively  easy 

ol  sol ut  ion  and  accomplishment.  That  route  being,  to  all  intents  and 
purposes,  hermetically  sealed,  the  ne.xi  best  course  is  to  be  attempted. 

Before  sailing  from  Seattle  you  will  procure  as  many  suitable  sleds 
as  you  deem  necessary,  fitted  with  necessary  appurtenances,  as  sleep- 
ing bays.  e1  c. 

You  are  hereby  given  full  authority  and  the  largesl  possible  lati- 
tude to  act  in  every  emergency  thai  may  arise,  and  while  impossi- 
bilities are  not  expected,  it  is  expected  thai  you.  with  your  gallant 
officers  and  crew,  will  leave  no  avenue  of  possible  success  untried  to 
render  successful  the  expedition  which  you  command.  I  transmit 
herewith  orders  to  Lieutenam-Colonel  Randall,  United  States  Army, 
commanding  a1  Fori  St.  .Michael,  and  to  Mr.  Lopp,  at  (ape  Prince  of 
Wales,  to  extend  to  you  and  ihe  overland  expedition  every  facility 
and  aid  in  their  power.  In  the  next  summer,  when  you  shall  have 
carried  to  a  successful  termination  the  rescue  of  the  people  in  the 
Arctic  and  have  them  safely  on  board  the  J!"ir.  you  will  sail  with  all 
for  San   Francisco  direct . 


II 


ciu'isE  of  'I'm-:   i'.  s.  kevextk  cutti:k   hear. 


.M  hid  nil  <if  the  arduous  and  perilous  expedition  upon  which  yon 
iire  iilmiii  id  enter.  I  hid  you.  your  officers  and  men.  Godspeed  upon 
your  errand  of  mercy,  and  wish  you  a  successful  vovaue  and  safe 
ret  urn. 

I  {espeel  I'll  lly,  yours. 

L.    .1.    (tA(.K.   ,SV  n-f  In nj. 

Cap!.   1'i;axcis  Tuttle,  R.  C.  S., 

( 'mn  urn  inlinij   I  .  S.    Hi  n  inn    ('iilhr  I '  !i  a  r,  lit  lief  K.rp, ,1 7- 
II,,,,    fur  lh,     \\~haiers   in  flu    Ai'ctir   Ocean,  Smith,    Wash. 


CAF  T     C.    r,    SHOEMAKER, 
Chief  Revenue-Cutter  Service. 


REPORT 


CRUISE  OF  THE   U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER    BEAR,  AM) 
THE  OVERLAND  EXPEDITION. 


P.    S.     KEVEXUE    CUTTER    BEAR, 

llialaska,   Alaska,    De'-emher  10,  JSf>7. 

Sir:  I  respectfully  report  the  arrival  of  the  Bear  at  I'nalaska  al 
l..'in  p.  in.  December  '■>,  ten  days  and  one  ami  three-fourths  hours 
from  Port  Townsend.  During  the  first  pari  of  the  passage  rough 
weather  was  encountere<l  and  progress  was  necessarily  slow.  During 
the  latter  half,  and  until  making  the  Aleutian  Islands,  pleasant 
weather  prevailed.  At  I'nalga  Pass  a  snowstorm  was  met  with,  which 
lasted  until  after  our  arrival  in  I'nalaska.  The  decks  being  encum- 
bered with  sail  provisions  in  barrels,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  for- 
ward coal  bunker  being  filled  with  (Ivy  provisions  for  the  whalers, 
which  can  not  reach  them  until  next  season.  I  deemed  it  besl  to  store 
these  provisions  while  the  Bear  would  he  absent  on  the  relief  expe- 
dition. Arrangements  were  made  with  the  agent  of  the  Alaska  Com- 
mercial Company  for  the  storage,  and  a1  2  p.  m.  the  discharging 
commenced.  At  S  p.  in.  the  provisions  were  all  in  the  storehouse. 
At  '.»  p.  m.  east  off  and  steamed  to  Dutch  Harbor,  to  be  ready  for  coal- 
ing ship  in  the  morning.  The  morning  of  the  loth  commenced  with 
a  heavy  northerly  gale,  with  rain  and  snow.  Most  of  the  forenoon 
was  consumed  shifting  stores  from  the  coal  hunkers  to  the  holds. 
After  that  was  finished  coaling  proceeded,  and  now.  al  10  p.  in.,  is 
going  on.  Before  midnigln  enough  coal  will  have  been  received  to 
have  nearly  .'Jon  ions  on  board.  If  the  gale  dies  out  I  propose,  imme- 
diately after  midnight,  to  leave  for  the  north.  (Tider  my  directions 
Lieutenant  Jarvis  lias  had  the  frame  of  a  boat,  to  be  covered  with 
canvas,  sawed  ou1  by  Mr.  Moran.  This  will  be  of  use  in  the  event  of 
meeting  open  water  while  crossing  the  ice  whenever  a  landing  may 
be  made. 

Lieutenant  Jarvis  has  secured  seven  dogs  here,  and  made  up  what 
of  his  out  tit  was  not  completed  in  Seattle  on  accotinl  of  hurried  depar- 
ture. Al  present  it  is  my  intention  to  send  Lieutenant  Jarvis,  Lieu- 
tenant   Bertholf,    Dr.    Call,   and    Koltchoff  on  the   relief  expedition 

11 


12 


(   liFISE    OF    THE     I.    S.    RF.VENFK    Cl'TTEH     BEAR. 


Lieutenant  .lurvis    thinks,  ami  I  coincide  with   his  opinion,  the  fewer 

while  people  ill  tile  part  V  1  he  better:    Iial  i\  'es  being  abl<?  t  O  gel  along  with 

mi  much  less  in  !  lie  way  i »}'  out  fits  and  provisions  than  while  people,  it  is 
preferable  to  em  ploy  t  hem.  I  shall  give  Lieut  oiiant  Jarvis  such  instruc- 
tiotis  as  will  empower  him  louse  all  the  resources  of  the  country 
through  \vhich  he  may  pas-.  His  promises  to  natives  in  regard  to 
compensation  for  services  will  he  respected.  As  yd  I  can  no1  form 
any  conclusion  as  to  whal  I  shall  do.  All  depends  upon  where  I  meet 
t  he  ice.  and  t  he  attending  com!  it  ions.  It  will  be  my  endeavor  to  carry 
out  the  Department's  instruct  ions  as  nearly  as  possible.  If  I  do  not 
return  to  1'nalaska  within  a  month,  il  may  he  concluded  the  vessel 
has  been  frozen  in.  It'  such  should  he  the  case,  no  fears  for  t lie  safety 
of  1  he  crew  should  lie  apprehended,  as  I  shall  take  ample  means  to 
secure  i  heir  safety.  The  mail  address  of  this  vessel  will  be  1'nalaska, 
Alaska. 

I\especl  fully,  yours.  I-'.   TUTTEE. 

(,'fint(i  in .    /.'.    ('.  S. .   Com  inn  rf!  iiuj. 

The    SKOKKTAKV    <>F    THE    TREASURY. 

Wnslinnjlnn.     /).     C. 


I'.   S.    REVENUE    (  T'lTKi:    I5EAR. 

Ihih-h  Hnrhnr.  Ahisk",  Ik<-tml»r  .'•:.  /.v.'T. 

mi::  I  respectfully  report  the  return  of  the  i>i-<>r  to  Dutch  Harbor, 
Alaska,  from  the  trip  to  land  the  relief  expedition  to  the  whalers 
im prisoned  in  1  he  Arci  ic  <  leean. 

The  lli  iir,  having'  linished  coaling  and  watering  ship,  sailed  from 
Dutch  Harbor  at  l.T"i  a.  in.  December  11.  shaping  a  course  to  sight 
Nuuavak  Island.  Strong  southerly  winds  and  thick  weather  pre- 
vailed. ( ) wing  to  the  thick  weal  her  I  did  not  deem  it  prudent  to  run 
near  enough  1o  Xunavak  Island  to  sighl  it.  Therefore  at  1  a.  in. 
December  1  J  the  course  was  changei  1  to  go  well  to  the  westward  of  i; . 
At  s  p.  in.  December  1 -J  considered  we  were  to  the  northward  of  tie- 
is  la  in  I  and  shaped  course  for  the  east  end  of  St.  Lawrence  Island.  At 
I  il.  \'i  p.  m.  December  1  '■>  saw  thin  scum  of  ice.  and  short  ly  afterwards 
came  across  deiached  pieces.  At  l.i'J  p.  m.  made  I'aunk  Islets  off 
Southeasi  (ape.  St.  Lawrence  Island,  bearing  \\V.  %  W'..  distant  \ 
miles.  The  out  lines  of  Southeast  (ape  could  be  dimly  seen  through 
the  snow  sipialls.  At  -  p.  in.,  on  accounl  of  the  decreasing  tempera- 
ture nf  t  he  water  and  increasing  amount  of  drift  ice.  sleered  east  in 
search  ii|'  open  water.  At  .'!  p.  in.,  finding  less  ice.  steered  XXK.  At 
'■'>.]"  ran  into  tie  Ids  of  broken  ice  mixed  with  slush  ice.  At  I.  finding 
the  ice  getting  1 1 h »  heavy  to  run  through,  turned  and  steered  SSW. 
Ai  »">.l'"  slow  ed  down  to  half  speed,  and  «Miiit  in  ued  so  with  reefed  niain- 
sail.   jib.  and    stavsail,  1  ackim:    1o  1  he  east  ward  and   southward    everv 


CRUISE    OE    THE    U.   S.   REVENTE    CUTTER    HEAR. 


13 


four  hours.  Ii  was  mv  intention  id  keep  near  the  outer  edge  of  the 
ice  until  daylight,  in  order  to  have  a  look  at  I  lie  ice  to  the  norl  1 1  ward, 
but  the- farther  we  worked  south  the  tliieker  the  mush  ice  became. 
Knowing' thai  as  soon  as  tin;  wind  died  out  the  sea  would  go  down  and 
tlie  niiisli  ice  would  form  into  a  solid  mass  which  il  would  be  impossi- 
ble for  us  io  get  through,  a1  U.  4<>  a.  m.  on  the  14th  I  wenl  ahead  full 
speed  to  SSW.  At  this  time  the  mush  ice  was  so  dense  that  we  made 
bin  slow  speed  through  it.  At  S  a.  in.,  being  tlirough  1  he  worst  of  it, 
hauled  by  the  wind  and  com  me  need  beat  ing  to  the  southward.  At  1  he 
lime  we  turned  back,  in  latitude  <i-!  1  •"!  north,  longitude  107  28' 
west.  Cape  Nome  bore  X.  by  K.  :;  K.,  magnetic,  dislani  So  miles,  and 
Sledge  Island  X.  !,  K..  magnetic,  distanl  '.Mi  miles.  It  was  with  much 
regret  thai  I  came  to  the  conclusion  it  would  be  impracticable  to  reach 
either  of  ihose  places.  Southerly  gales  had  been  blowing  for  several 
days,  and  would  have  banked  the  ice  up  on  the  shores  For  many  miles 
out  to  sea.  rendering  il  impossible  to  reach  the  shore  over  the  rough 
ice.  The  risk  of  being  frozen  in  (which  would  have  defeated  the 
object  of  i  he  expedition)  was  loo  great  to  be  taken.  Cape  Vancouver 
being  the  next  nearest  and  perhaps  available  place,  I  determined  to 
endeavor  to  reach  there,  fortunately  for  us  the  weather  cleared  up 
on  the  morning  of  the  loth  at  '•)  a.  in.,  the  cape  was  sighted,  and  the 
vessel  headed  for  it.  The  chart  gave  soundings  of  in  fathoms.  The 
lead  proved  these  soundings  to  be  erroneous,  and  il  was  necessary  to 
proceed  wit  h  greal  caul  ion. 

At  1  p.  m..  being  within  _  miles  of  the  cape,  slowed  down  and  ran 
along  the  south  shore  in  search  of  an  Indian  village  shown  on  the 
chart.  Ai  i\4<  'con eluded  i  here  was  no  village,  1  urned.  and  steamed  for 
1  lie  north  side  of  the  cape.  At  o\5<>,  jusl  as  enl  ire  darkness  shut  down, 
made  out  a  village  some  1  or  o  miles  dislani  to  the  northeastward. 
Ice  was  now  making  rapidly  and  there  was  every  appearance  of  a  gale 
coining  on.  A  starl  was  made  to  run  to  sea.  bul  the  water  shoaled  so 
rapidly,  and  darkness  making  ii  impossible  to  see  any  distance,  it  was 
thoughl  best  to  get  as  near  Tape  Vancouver  as  possible  and  come  to 
anchor.  This  was  done  at  1. lop.  m.  During  the  nighl  the  current 
set  to  the  westward  between  '2  and  •">  knots  per  hour,  bringing  vast 
quant  il  ies  of  ice.  which,  being  broken  up,  did  not  cause  the  vessel  to 
d  rag  anchor. 

Ai  *.4o  a.  m.  on  the  I'ith  got  under  way  and  steamed  toward  the  vil- 
lage. At  !i.2n  anchored  in  0  fathoms  of  water,  village  bearing  K.  by  X. 
distanl  aboul  5  miles.  Lieutenant  Jarvis,  with  the  second  cutter, 
started  for  1  he  village;  jusl  as  he  had  lel'i  the  vessel  some  nai  ive  kyaks 
were  seen  near  i  he  beach  aboul  a  mile  from  the  vessel.  His  attention 
was  called  io  t  hem  and  he  pulled  ashore  where  they  were.  Ai  10.15 
Lieutenant  Jarvis  returned  and  reported  that  the  people  ashore 
belonged  to  the  village  of  Tununak.  Among  them  was  a  half-breed 
trader  who  agreed   to  take  the  relief   part v  to  St.  Michael   and  have 


14 


CKI'ISK    <»K    THE     r.   S.    KEVENUE    CITTER    UKAR. 


ill. mii  there  in  ifii  ilays  from  the  time  of  siart  inu'.  He  had  doe;  teams 
ami  could  Li'et  supplies  dii  the  route  across  tlie  country.  A>  the 
weather  was  t  hreatejiiuu",  t  he  party  and  t  heir  out  tits  were  loaded  into 
t  wo  boats  and  >t  a  rled  ashore.  [Jel'ore  t  he  boats  ret  u  rued  the  ice  com- 
menced to  run.  and  before  the  first  cutter  could  reach  the  vessel  she 
was  caiurhi  in  it .  ami.  not  be i nix  able  1o  uct  out.  was  rapidly  beine;  car- 
ried in  leeward.  Amdior  was  hove  up  and  t he  vessel  pushed  1  hrou.u'h 
the  ice  uni  il  1 1n-  dual  was  readied.  Uein.u'  in  i\  l'al  lion  is  of  water,  the 
anchor   was   lei    uo  to  brine;   the  vessel   head   to  the   current.      While 

1  1 1  i  -.  «;i>  beinu'  dmie.  I.ieul  enalil  lJelTV.  ill  the  second  cutter,  vol 
alongside  and  reported  that  Lieutenant  Jarvis  had  coiichuled  hewould 
like  the  7  dou's  and  _'  sleds  we  had  on  board  (  Lieutenant  .Jarvis  had  on  his 
return  from  the  shore  told  me  they  would  noi  be  needed),  and  also 
>oiiie  oi  her  articles.  At  this  t  hue  we  were  some  distance  to  leeward 
of  the  landing  place,  and  it  was  necessary  to  fjvl  to  windward  in  order 
to  ii'H  a  boat  ashore.  Anchor  was  hove  up  and  the  vessel  si  earned 
as  far  to  windward  as  the  depth  of  water  permitted,  and  auain 
anchored.  The  dous.  sleds,  and  other  articles  were  loaded  into  the 
cutter  and  sent  ashore  in  charge  of  Lieutenant  lierry.  At  4  he 
returned  and  reported  the  party  had  left  the  beach,  and  the  tracks  in 
the  snow  showed  they  had  started  for  the  village:  so  he  had  landed 
his  boat  load  and  returned  to  the  vessel.  Considering'  the  pre>en1 
anchorage  dangerous,  the  vessel  was  e;o1  under  way  and  headed  lot 
sea.  At  L-b  i.  be  hie;  in  Lj  fat  lion  is  of  water,  ext  remely  dark,  and  every 
indication  of  a  irale.  turned  and  stood  SL.  At  4..).")  anchored  in  "ii 
fathoms  of  water.  I  Mirinv.'  t  he  niuht  a  st  rone;  easterly  uale  with  snow 
and  \^ry  violenl  squalls  prevailed.  At  d  'dio  p.  m.  1  he  ice  commenced 
to  run  and  continued  until  toward  mornine;.  bin  fortunately  il  was 
not  heavy  enough  to  part  the  chain.  As  the  ""ale  came  from  off  the 
land  there  was  no  sea  of  any  account. 

At  *\  I1 '  a.  in. .  on  the  17th.  u'oi  under  way  and  steamed  to  t  lie  west- 
ward, runtime.' at  half  or  slow  >peed.  occasionally  stopping  and  back- 
ing when  the  water  shoaled  in  less  than  *•  fathoms.  The  bottom  was 
very  irregular.  At  t  inies  1  ■'!  fat  ho  ms  would  be  found  for  a  di  si  a  nee  of 
■'!  or  1  miles,  and  then  this  would  decrease  to  1  ,;  fathoms.  The  land 
was  shin  in  by  the  falling  snow,  thus  niakinu'  it  impossible  to  tell 
which  way  or  how  far  the  currents  had  set  the  vessel.  The  sound- 
ing's "ii  I  he  chart  having  been  found  to  be  wrone;.  no  reliance  could 
lie  placed  upon  them.  A  rapidly  fa  1  liny;  barometer  preclicied  the 
approach  of  a  yale.  or  I  shouhl  have  anchored  the  vessel  until  the 
weather  cleai'ed.  Knowing  the  anchors  would  noi  hold  in  the  heav\ 
sea  thai  a  yah-  would  create  in  such  an  exposed  place,  there  was  noth- 
ing to  do  I  nit  to  coin  in  in-  feel  hie,  our  way  alone;.  Al  i'.  1 ' '  p.  in.,  d  ur- 
ine.- a  momentary  cessation  of  the  snowslorm.  a  rocky  islet  off  the 
northeast  end  of  Nbmavak  Island  was  seen  and  recognized,  bearing 
SK.   by  >.    ;   >..  and    haviny   somet  hiny   to   take  a   departure    from    we 


CRUISE    OF     THE    l\   S.  REVENUE    CUTTER    HEAR. 


15 


could  now  go  on  Willi  inure  con  lidence.  Ii  was  7  p.  in.  before  the 
(lepi  li  of  water  inerease<]  suftieienl  lyto  war  ran  l  running  at  half  speed, 
and  «i1  s  o'clock,  having  1-5  fat homs,  went  ahead  a1  full  speed,  steering 
W.  by  S.  along  tin*  north  shore  of  Ndinavak  Island.  At  l<i  p.  in.  there 
was  a  strong  SSW.  wind,  hrinui nu1  <t  heavy  beam  sea,  and  the  vessel 
was  put  under  shorl  sail.  At  1  l..'!u,  on  account  of  the  heavy  sea.  ran 
at  half  s[)eed,  and  at  '2.'-)~>  a.  in.  on  t  he  lsth  tlie  wind  and  sea  increased 
to  such  an  extent  as  to  make  it  necessary  1o  heave  to.  The  vessel 
was  brought  to  tlie  wind  on  the  port  tack  and  lay  in  that  position 
until  H.4o  p.  in.  on  the  isth.  The  wind  then  moderating,  a  course 
was  sha[>ed  for  St.  Paul  Island,  hut  the  heavy  sea  did  not  permit  run- 
ning a  1  full  speed  until  ii  a.  m.  on  t  he  l'Jth.  Si .  Paul  Island  was  made 
a1  ~.o(  'a.  in.  on  the  l><  it  h.  and  the  vessel  came  to  anchor  in  Soul  h  west 
Bay  at  11. on  a.  in.  Mr.  J.  Murray,  special  agenl  in  charge  of  the 
islands.  Mr.  Redpath,  agenl  of  1  he  Xor1  h  American  Commercial  (om- 
panv.  and  otliers  came  on  hoard.  They  reported  all  well  on  tlie 
island,  and  thai  no  vessels  had  been  seen  since  the  departure  of  the 
Hi- 1 1?  on  October  -[  last.  They  were  greatly  pleased  to  receive  the 
mail  and  newspapers  we  hrougln  them.  Mr.  Murray  said  the  seals 
branded  in  ls'.ii;  had  returned  to  the  islands  with  the  brands  perfectly 
legible  and  their  skins  destroyed  as  far  as  commercial  value  was  con- 
cerned. 

Ii  wa>  my  intention  to  remain  only  a  few  hours,  to  give  the  people 
a  chance  1o  answer  their  letters,  and  then  proceed  to  St.  <  J-eorge  Island. 
A  strong  northerly  wind  coming  up.  I  knew  there  would  be  no  land- 
ing al  St.  (-reorge.  Ihei'efore  remained  at  Si.  Paul  until  i>..'J<i  a.  in.  on 
the  i'i  si .  w  hen  1  he  wind  having  moderated,  go  1  under  way  and  steamed 
for  St .  <  ieorge.  A  rrived  off  the  village  at  1  1  .'■><  >  a.  in.,  but  a  heavy  sea 
was  running  and  a  landing  was  impossible.  Signals  were  made  to 
"•  t  r\  <  >a  rd en  Cove."  on  the  southeast  side  of  1  he  island,  and  the  H<  " i' 
was  steamed  around  there  and  anchored  al  I. lop.  in.  Here,  too,  a 
bad  sea  was  running  on  the  beach,  through  which  it  would  be  danger- 
ous to  attempt  a  landing  in  a  boat .  so  the  mail  was  inclosed  in  a  small 
cask,  to  which  a  line  with  a  heaving  stick  was  attached,  taken  in  the 
culler,  and  carried  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  breakers,  where  the  heav- 
ing st  ick  was  thrown  ashore  and  the  cask  drawn  through  the  breakers. 
There  was  no  way  of  getl  ing  t  he  mail  from  the  shore,  but  Mr.  Judge, 
the  special  agent,  shouted  thai  all  was  well  on  the  island.  Upon  the 
return  of  the  boat,  at  2.-'Jn  p.  in.,  anchor  was  hove  up  and  a  course 
shaped  for  Unalaska.  which  was  reached  at  l^.oo  p.  m.   December  -2. 

During  the  cruise  much  bad  weather  was  experienced,  but  neither 
the  vessel  nor  the  crew  sustained  any  injury.  Everything  will  be 
ready  to  leave  for  1  he  nort  h  as  soon  as  1  here  is  any  possibility  of  get- 
ting news  from  the  expedition  or  the  imprisoned  whalers. 

Inclosed  is  a  copy  of  my  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Jarvis.  (See 
Appendix,  i      In  addition  to  these,  a  copy  of  the  instructions  received 


If. 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.   s.    KEYEXUE    CUTTER    HEAR. 


by  nit'   from    t  In*    I  )eparl  incut    under  date  of   November    15,   lsu7,  \va> 
alsi i  Li"] ven  him. 

I    inclose  a  churl    showing   the  track  of   the  litur  from    the  time  sin 
lei'i    I'nalaska  until  her  return  in  that   port. 

Hespoct  I'lllly.    Vnurs.  |-'.    TUTTLE. 

<  7/ j>f<l  i n ,    /,'.    ('.   .S. .    ( 'mil  inn tnJ i in/. 
The    SECRETARY    <>E    THE    TREASURY. 

M'asliiiH/tnii.    /).    <  '. 


I'.   S.    KEVENl'E    (   UTTER    15EAR. 

Xoffon  Sniiinl,   Alaska,  Jiim     !■'>.    1SUS. 

Sir:  The  />'">/•  left  I'nalaska  June  11  for  St.  Lawrence  Island. 
Pleasant  weather  was  experienced  during  the  passage,  and  the  island 
was  readied  al  1  -.•'!| •  a.  in.  June  l'.i.  After  a  stop  of  a  couple  of  hours 
a  start  was  made  for  Indian  Point,  lull  within  an  liour  heavy  ice  was 
met  with  and  a  thick  fog  settled  down,  and  it  was  deemed  advisable 
to  return  to  the  island  and  await  clearing  weather. 

At  '.'a.  in.  of  the  I'uth  the  fog  lifted,  and  another  start  was  made 
for  Indian  I'oint.  After  si  earn  inn'  through  Jo  miles  of  ice  it  became 
so  closely  packed  as  to  prevent  Further  progress,  and  the  vessel  was 
again  headed  back  for  St.  Lawrence  Island,  which  was  reached  at  ■"> 
p.  in.  There  being  some  open  water  to  the  northward  and  eastward. 
I  concluded  to  try  for  King's  Island,  hut  in  a  couple  of  hours  ice  was 
again  met  with,  and  until  '.'  a.  in.  of  the  i'lsi  was  spent  working 
toward  thai  place.  At  that  time  the  ice  ahead  was  closely  packed. 
bill  to  1  he  northward  appeared  open  water,  and  the  vessel  was  headed 
in  that  direction.  At  1  1  a.  in.  more  open  water  was  struck,  and  St. 
Lawrence  I  Jay.  Siberia,  being  the  nearest  port  the  vessel  was  headed 
for  it.  and  at  1"  a.  in.  we  reached  the  village  al  North  Head.  The 
bay  was  solidly  frozen,  making  it  impossible  to  reach  the  reindeer 
station,  sua  messenger  wa>  sent  to  notify  tin- superintendent  of  t  In- 
st at  ion  of  t  he  arrival  of  the  lh  a r  and  that  she  would  remain  at  North 
Head  until  night  in  order  that  he  mighl  communicate  with  us. 

During  the  evening  the  superintendent.  Mr.  Kelly,  came  over  and 
reported  t  here  would  be  a  boil  1  sou  reindeer  1o  1  ransporl  to  the  Alas- 
kan shore.  At  i'  a.  m.  the  >:>d,  was  got  underway  for  ('ape  Prince 
of  Wales,   where  she  arrived  in  the  evening. 

V pon  landing  I  found  t  hat  Mr.  Lop]),  who  went  to  Poiul  Harrow  wit  h 
Lieutenanl  Jarvis.  had  returned,  ami  1  was  greatly  pleased  to  learn 
t  hat  t  he  overland  expedit  ion  had  been  cut  i rely  successful.  1  he  reindeer 
ha\  ing  arrived  in  good  order,  and  no  accidents  had  happened  to  an\ 
of  the  members.  I  forward  herewith  copies  of  report-  1  received  from 
Lieutenant  Ja  r\  is. 

Lieutenant  Jarvis  was  obliged  to  buy  a  greal  many  articles  for  the 
expedition    and   to  hire  a   number  of  nat  ives  for  \  arious  purposes.      As 


CRUISE    OF    Till'.    l\   s.  REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAK. 


17 


lie  could  not  carry  with  him  enough  articles  to  pay  for  services,  elc, 
I  had  instructed  him  to  give  written  orders,  to  he  presented  on  board 
the  /!>"i\  and  which  I  would  make  good. 

I  have  already  given  out  a  quantity  of  flour  and  sugar,  but  other 
art  icles.  such  as  cloth,  tobacco,  powder,  soap,  etc.,  are  not  in  t  he  ship's 
stores.  I  shall  purchase  them  in  St.  Michael  and  deliver  on  my  return 
next  week. 

At  Si .  Michael  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  supplied  the  party. 
At  Point  Hope,  II.  Liebes  A  Co.  furnished  the  supplies.  Vouchers 
will  be  made  out  and  forwarded  to  the  Department. 

Lieutenant  .larvis  mentions  the  necessity  of  a  supply  of  clothing 
and  bedding  Lor  loo  men.  I  am  in  doubt  as  to  my  authority  to  pur- 
chase them,  but  as  it  is  a  (dear  case  of  absolute  necessity  I  will,  if 
possible,  obtain  them  at  the  lowest   price. 

'idie  matter  of  compensating  Mr.  Lopp  for  his  services  can  not  be 
settled  until  I  see  Lieutenant  .larvis.  Mr.  Lopp  deserves  the  greatest 
praise  and  a  substantial  reward  for  \vha1  he  did  for  the  expedition, 
fie  left  his  wife  and  children,  the  only  white  people  in  this  pari  of  the 
country,  alone  in  an  Eskimo  village  and  wenl  with  Lieutenant  .larvis 
on  what   looked  very  much  like  a  forlorn  hope. 

Charlie  Artisarlook,  of  Point  Rodney,  also  left  his  family,  took  all 
his  reindeer,  and  went  with  Lieutenanl  -larvis.  and  this  forenoon  I 
found  his  wife  and  child  in  a  camp  of  natives  on  Sledge  Island,  where 
they  were  hunting  seals.  Mrs.  Artisarlook  said  they  had  nearly 
starved  since  her  husband  left,  as  seal  and  fish,  their  principal  food, 
had  been  very  scarce.  I  gave  her  ample  provisions  to  last  three 
months,  and  promised  to  "bring  her  husband  back  from  Point   Barrow. 

I  expect  to  reach  St.  Michael  to-morrow,  and  as  soon  as  supplies  can 
be  obtained  I  shall  proceed  north. 

I  do  not  anticipate  being  able  to  reach  Point  Hope  before  the  loth 
of  July,  as  there  arc  enormous  quantities  of  ice  both  in  Bering  Sea 
and  above  the  straits  in  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

Respectfully,  yours,  F.   Tl'TTLE, 

(  7/  [tin  /  a .    I\t  r<  n  in  -( '  nlli  r  Serrict-,   Com  uni  ltd  ilKj. 

The  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 

I  I  'llsll  i llljlllll  ,     I  >.    ( '. 


KKI'uRT  <)K  SK(OM)    LIKl'T.    K.    I'.    IJKHTHOLK,   K.  ('.  S. 


('.  s.    Rkvexuk-Cuttek  Service, 

Point  Hojh-i  Alaska,  July  l~>.  hS'.is. 

Sir:  In  accordance  with  the  instructions  of  Lieut.  I).  II.  Jarvis, 
Ki'vci) ue-(  ill tcr  Service,  commanding  t lie  overland  relief  expedition, 
under  date  of  .March  5,  lS'.iX,  a  copy  of  which  is  hereby  inclosed 
(see  Appendix),  I  respectfully  submit  the  following  report: 

The  plans  referred  to  for  the  return  of  Mr.  \V.  T.  Lopp  related 
principally  to  the  transportation  of  provisions  up  the  coast  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Pit  megea  River.  With  this  object  in  view,  I  led  Nelson's 
Whaling  Station  on  March  -'il,  with  two  sleds  loaded  with  the  pro- 
visions for  the  cache,  and  alter  three  days'  hard  traveling,  for  the 
sleds  were  heavy  and  the  trail  very  had,  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
Pit  megea  River.  On  the  way  up  we  had  stopped  at  the  Corwin  Coal 
M  i lie  and  procured  a  few  hoards  from  t  he  old  ruined  house  1  here,  with 
which  to  huihl  our  cache.  Cpon  reaching  our  destination  we  found 
no  drifl  wood  handy  for  posts,  so  we  cut  into  the  side  of  an  old  native 
hut .  scooped  out  the  snow  and  made  a  cache  in  thai  way.  after  which 
we  closed  up  the  opening  with  the  boards  we  had  bronchi  along  and 
left  a  note  bet  ween  two  boards  st  tick  up  in  the  snow .  to  call  at  tent  ion 
of  whoever  should  pass  thai  way  coming  from  Point  Harrow.  Hav- 
ing finished  our  task,  we  started  to  return  on  the  morning'  of  the  'id 
of  April,  and  now  having  lighl  sleds  made  excellent  time,  reaching 
(ape  Lisburne  thai  same  night,  a  distance  of  some  fifty-five  miles. 
The  next  day  we  returned  to  the  station  here.  ()n  the  way  down  we 
also  cached  some  seal  meat  at  the  Corwin  Coal  Mine,  to  be  used  for 
dog  food.  IJot.li  caches  were  found  by  Mr.  Lopp  when  he  returned 
from  Point  JJarrow,  and  he  left  here  on  the  il-'id  of  April  for  his  home 
at  ( 'ape  Prince  of  Wales,  leaving  one  deer  herder  behind  wit h  me,  to' 
care  for  the  deer  thai  had  strayed  from  the  main  herd  while  en  route 
to  1  'oi  nt   I  tarrow  . 

When  Mr.  Lopp  ami  myself  left  Anyok  (near  (ape  K  ru/.enstern) 
with  the  deer  herd,  on  the  J 1  st  of  February  last,  il  had  been  decided 
to  send  back  to  their  homes  four  of  the  native  herders  then  with  the 
herd,  and  these  were  consequently  left  behind  at  that  place,  provision 
having  been  made  for  their  return  travel. 

Having  accompanied  Lopp  and  t  he  deer  herd  along  I  he  coast  as  far 
as  the  place  when-  he  was  to  st  rike  across  t  he  lagoons  for  t  he  Kivalenn 


*.  ^** 


0f£ 


«•> 


*•.«• 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


19 


River,  I  parted  company  with  him  on  February  -7  and  proceeded  to 
tliis  place,  in  accordance  with  previous  orders  from  Lieulenaul  Jarvis. 
Here  I  received  word  on  March  21  thai  some  of  our  deer  were  al  Anyok 
in  charge  of  two  of  the  herders.  I  sent  word  to  them  to  drive  t lie 
(\(M'V  up  here,  and  on  April  i'l  the  herd  reached  lliis  place  in  charge 
of  link  and  Keok.  Ii  appeal's  thai  somewliere  between  Anyok  and 
the  Kivalena  River  these  deer.  '■>{  in  number,  had  si  rayed  from  the 
main  herd  unnoticed,  and  a  native  who  had  acted  as  a  guide  had  dis- 
covered them  on  his  return  to  Anyok.  As  the  four  herders  had  noi 
yet  started  on  their  return  trip  to  their  homes,  they  wenl  after  the 
dm  and  drove  them  hack  to  the  village,  after  which  they  all  started 
for  their  homes  al  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  exeepl  link  and  Keok, 
who  then  drove  the  small  herd  here.  Three  i\ccr  had  been  killed 
for  food  on  the  way.  so  thai  when  they  reached  here  there  were  '31 
in  the  herd,  -'>  of  them  being  females.  I  gave  the  herders  my 
tenl  and  camp  gear,  employed  three  young  natives  to  help  them,  and 
sen1  them  with  the  dr^r  several  miles  hack  into  the  hills,  where  ihe 
moss  was  good  and  they  would  noi  be  troubled  by  the  dogs  from  the 
villages.  There  the  camp  was  established  and  the  deer  cared  for. 
When  Lopp  passed  here  on  his  way  home  lie  look  Keok  with  him, 
leaving  link  to  care  for  the  animals,  with  the  help  of  the  three  young 
natives  I  had  engaged.  From  time  to  time  I  have  supplied  them  with 
such  clothing  and  provisions  as  were  deemed  necessary,  and  also 
tobacco,  carl  ridges,  shot,  lead,  and  powder.  All  these  articles  I 
obtained  from  Mr.  Nelson,  manager  of  laches  A  Co's  Whaling  Station, 
at  Point  Hope,  with  whom  I  have  been  living,  and  charged  the  same 
to  the  account  of  the  overland  relief  expedition.  Up  to  the  present 
time  _  of  the  old  deer  have  been  killed  for  food  and  2o  fawns  have 
been  born,  o  of  which  have  died,  ihus  leaving  i)(.»  old  (\ccv  and  20 
fawns  in  the  herd,  and  all  in  good  condition  and  apparently  well 
cared  for. 

Willi  regard  to  the  illicit  distilling  of  spirituous  liquor  by  the  nal  ives, 
I  have  made  several  trips  to  different  villages  and  visited  and  searched 
all  the  native  houses  from  Cape  Thompson  to  Point  Hope,  discovering 
and  destroying  six  stills  and  about  ten  gallons  of  mash  nearly  fer- 
mented. On  two  of  these  trips  I  have  been  assisted  by  (apt.  Peter 
Payne  and  M  r.  I  lenry  Ivoenig  (commonly  known  as  ( 'ooper),  who  have 
whaling  stal  ions  on  this  point,  and  I  have  been  mosl  materially  assisted 
by  Mr.  Xelson,  who  accompanied  me  on  several  of  the  trips. 

When  1  visited  the  native  village  at  Point  Nope.  Mr.  Nelson  and 
myself  searched  several  of  the  houses  there,  bul  finding  no  traces  of 
what  we  were  looking  for  I  concluded  to  talk  to  the  natives  and  try 
persuasion.  Mr.  Nelson  acting  as  interpreter. 

After  telling  them  about  the  had  effects  of  whisky.  I  recited  instances 
where  whole  villages  had  been  depopulated  by  indulgence  in  the 
liquor,  having  thereby  been  rendered  incapable  of  providing  the  nee- 


20 


CKMISi:    OF    THE    T.    s.    REVENUE    CUTTER    REAR. 


essai'y  food  supply  lor  the  winter.  The  natives  appeared  vvy  much 
impressed  by  whai  wa>  said,  ami  I  hey  soon  showed  us  many  places 
where  the  stills  had  been  hidden,  buried  in  t In*  -now.  and  in  a  short 
tint**  we  had  destroyed  nine  stills,  which  had  been  concealed  in  all 
sorts  of  -now  hanks,  where  it  would  have  been  almosl  impossible  for 
us  to  discover  them.  The  follow  iun  day  a  native  woman  came  all  the 
way  down  here  from  Point  Hope,  a  distance  of  1  •">  miles,  and  gave  me 
live  still  pipes,  the  tubs  of  which  she  said  had  been  broken  up. 

Although  whisky  was  introduced  into  northern  Alaska  many  years 
api.  when  i  he  ships  lirsl  began  to  make  trading  voyages  to  that  region, 
the  distilling  of  spii'it s  was  not  known  or  practiced  by  the  natives 
until  about  ten  years  ago,  when  white  men  who  were  engaged  in  the 
whaling  business  on  Point  Hope  taught  the  old  chief  Ah-tung-owra, 
of  the  Point  Nope  village,  a  process  of  obtaining  a  sort  of  alcohol 
from  a  mixture  of  flour,  water,  ami  sugar  or  molasses.  The  chief 
taughl  the  process  to  his  henchmen,  and  they  in  turn  gave  it  to  the 
people  of  the  di fferent  villages  1  hey  happe ned  to  visit,  and  thus  ii  was 
passed  a  hum  until  there  was  not  a  single  village  on  i  he  coast  from  Point 
Harrow  south  that  did  not  have  one  or  more  distilling  apparatus 
going  whenever  the  natives  could  procure  the  necessary  Hour  and 
molasses.  During  the  past  few  year-,  however,  the  Poinl  Harrow 
natives  have  -topped  making  this  liquor,  having  realized  its  bad 
effects,  but  from  Point  Hope  all  along  the  coasi  to  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales,  and  even  a-  far  as  1'nalaklik.  the  natives  will  brew  and  drink 
this  "  whisky  "  as  often  as  they  can  procure  the  necessary  ingredients — 
molasses  or  sugar. 

The  general  practice  is  to  mix  together  one  part  each  of  flour  ami 
molasses  with  tour  parts  of  water,  and  then  let  the  mixture  stand  for 
several  days  in  a  warm  atmosphere  until  it  is  fermented.  The  dis- 
tilling apparatus  consists  of  a  a-gallon  coal-oil  tin.  an  old  gun  barrel, 
and  a  wooden  tub.  The  fermented  ma-h  is  put  in  tin-  coal-oil  tin. 
and  the  gun  barrel,  which  serves  as  the  coil,  leads  from  this  t  in  through 
the  tub.  which  is  kept  tilled  with  cracked  ice.  A  fire  is  then  built 
under  the  tin.  and  a-  the  vapor  rises  from  the  heated  mash  it  i-  con- 
densed in  the  gun  barrel  by  the  ice  in  the  tub.  ami  the  liquor  comes 
out  at  the  end  of  the  gun  barrel  drop  by  drop  and  is  caught  in  a  tin 
cup  or  wooden  bowl,  whichever  happens  to  be  on  hand. 

While  the  disi  ilia  i  ion  is  in  process,  t  he  natives  who  have  an  interest 
in  it.  by  vir.ue  of  having  furnished  the  Hour  or  molasses  or  the  still, 
-it  around  and  pal  ient  ly  wail  for  a  sufficient  quantity  of'  spirits  to 
drop  from  the  l:  u  i  i  barrel  to  allow  them  a  drink.  The  process  is  nec- 
essarily slow  and  it  takes  a  long  time  to  obtain  a  half  pint  of  the 
liquor,  but  the  "whisky"  makes  up  in  strength  whai  ii  lack-  in 
quantity  ami  ii  does  not  take  much  of  it  to  make  ••drunk  conic"  to 
several  nat  i  vcs.  which,  being  the  object  for  which  I  he  si  u  IT  was  brewed. 
the  re-uli  is  highly  satisfactory  from  a  native  standpoint. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  ('UTTER  BEAK 


21 


In  those  debauches  there  is  no  discrimination  made  on  account  of 
sex.  the  women  being  entitled  in  and  obtaining  their  share  as  well  us 
the  men.  The  natives  beiliii'  as  a  rule  good  natlired,  the  liquor  gen- 
erally has  the  effect  of  making  tlieni  hilarious  and  voluble,  and  they 
make  a  ureal  deal  of  noise  shouting  and  singing,  Inil  1he\  are  not 
usually  vicious  when  intoxicated.  Of  course  when  a  bad-tempered 
native  yets  drunk  he  becomes  very  had.  and  l  here  is  likely  to  be  a 
cutting  or  shooting  affray,  but  this  is  not  often  the  case,  and  the  had 
result  of  whisky  making  and  drink  inn1  comes  from  the  fact  that  ihe 
life  of  1  he  average  Eskimo  family  is  one  continual  struggle  for  enough 
to  eat  and  enough  to  wear,  and  when  the  elder  members  of  a  family 
keep  on  a  drunken  debauch  for  several  days,  the  children  sicken  for 
lack  of  nourishment  and  die.  Often  in  the  fall  whole  villages  have 
been  known  to  engage  in  a  drunken  carousal  for  weeks  at  a  time,  and 
as  they  thus  neglect  to  lay  in  enough  lish  and  game  for  the  winter's 
supply,  many  of  them  perish  from  starvation  before  the  game  again 
becomes  plenl  if  ul  in  t  lie  spring. 

The  interior  natives  do  nol  suffer  >o  seriously  from  the  whisky 
habit  as  their  brothers  of  the  coast,  probably  from  the  fact  that  Hour 
and  molasses  are  harder  for  them  to  get,  and  when  they  come  to  the 
coast  in  the  summer  to  trade  with  the  ships,  if  1  hey  do  brew  the  liquor, 
they  use  up  their  Hour  while  on  the  coast,  so  thai  when  t  hey  return  to 
their  villages  they  have  nothing  with  which  to  make  the  liquor,  ami 
are  thus  not  rendered  incapable  of  hunting  the  deer  during  the  winter 
monl  lis. 

Although  I  destroyed  in  all  aboul  twenty  stills  during  the  winter, 
t  lie  re  remain.  I  believe,  many  other  stills  in  this  vicinity  which  I  have 
been  unable  to  discover,  but  even  if  they  were  all  destroyed  the 
natives  could  easily  make  more,  and  1  am  convinced  thai  this  illicit 
distilling  can  nol  he  stopped  unless  the  whiles  are  prevented  from 
1  rading  molasses  and  sugar  to  the  natives  or  these  articles  are  diluted 
with  something  that  will  prevent  fermentation.  While  at  Point  Hope 
1  mixed  up  two  mashes  after  the  native  formula,  putting  in  each  a 
little  yeast  to  aid  fermentation,  and  in  one  of  the  mixl  u  res  I  pul  a  hour 
a  teaspoonful  of  seal  oil.  After  allowing  the  mixtures  to  remain  in  a 
warm  place  for  several  days.  I  found  the  one  having  the  seal  oil  in  it 
had  nol  fermented  al  all.  while  the  other  was  fully  fermented,  ami  as 
a  result  of  this  experiment  1  recommended  to  the  white  traders  at 
Point  Hope  to  dilute  their  molasses  with  a  little  seal  oil  he  fore  t  rading 
it  to  the  natives.  bu1   whether  or  nol  they  will  do  so  is  hard  to  say. 

Some  of  the  older  natives  having  seen  the  effects  of  whisky,  and 
realizing  it  is  rapidly  reducing  the  numbers  of  their  people,  try  to 
stop  its  manufacture  by  the  younger  and  more  thoughtless  ones,  but 
with  poor  success:  and  in  this  connect  ion  I  will  state  thai  I  have  been 
asked  by  several  Kskimos.  who  seemed  to  he  \c\-y  intelligent .  the  very 
pertinent   question   why  the  while    men  are  allowed    to   trade   molasses 


cimi-i:  of  tiik 


HKVKM   I.    CT'ITKR     I'.EAIJ. 


in  1 1n-  nat  i  \  <•>  1 1'  n  is  wrong  for  1  hem  in  1 1  lake  whisky  wiili  it.  aim  why 
1 1n-  ships  art'  allow  ed  to  1  rade  whisky  to  1 1n-  nat  ives  al  all. 

I  can  in  '1  speak  too  highly  of  1  he  aid  given  me  by  .Mr.  X  el  son  in  l  li  is 
mailer,  whereas  it  is  an  open  seerel  tliat  then-  have  been  limes  when 
while  men  on  Point  Mope  have  eneoii  raged  this  illicit  dist  i  Hi  ng  by 
buying  and  drinking  1  he  coneoet  ion  after  it  lias  been  brewed  by  the 
nat  i  vis. 

Tin-  circumstances  of  the  murder  of  the  native  Wasliok  by  other 
nat  ives  lasl   tall,  are  as  follow  s: 

About  li  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  mi  l  he  I7lh  of  November.  1>>'.i7. 
Mr.  liustan  Nelson  was  sitting  in  hi--  house  reading,  and  Messrs. 
Charles  Sandbonrne  and  (4eorge  F.  Tilton  were  working  in  <  in-  of  the 
ol  ln-r  rooms,  when  1  hey  all  heard  two  ri  He  shots  li  red  in  quick  succes- 
sion, folio  wed  shortly  after  by  four  others.  Nelson  thrust  his  revolver 
in  his  pocket,  rushed  mil  of  the  house,  and  there  saw.  ch.se  to  the 
house,  i  wo  nal  ives.  Avulik  and  Shukurana.  each  with  a  smoking  rifle 
in  his  hand,  standing  over  1  he  body  of  Wasliok.  which  was  lying  on  i  he 
snow  (dose  lo  his  v]cd.  pierced  with  six  bullet  holes.  Washok's  wife 
was  close  by.  and  several  oilier  natives  were  running'  to  the  scene  of 
tin-  tiring.  Sandbonrne  and  Tilton  ran  out  soon  after  Nelson,  and 
alter  ascertaining  thai  Wasliok  was  dead  and  beyond  all  help,  they 
ail  returned  to  the  house.  Soon  after  the  body  was  carried  out  into 
the  country  and  pul  up  on  sticks,  after  the  native  fashion,  the  mur- 
derers aiding  in  tin-  cereim my. 

It  appears  that  Wasliok  and  his  wife  were  ret  undue,  in  the  village 
with  a  load  of  wood,  the  two  above-named  naiives  having  con- 
cealed themselves,  shot  Washok  when  he  came  near  enough  to  make 
their  aim  sure.  There  was  probnbh  only  one  actual  witness  to  t lie? 
affair  besides  the  two  murderers,  and  thai  was  Washok's  wife,  all 
t  he  ot  her  nat  ives  of  t  he  village  being  mil  of  sighl  at  the  t  i  me.  and 
subsequent  inquiry  developed  tin-  fad  thai  these  other  natives 
knew  thai  the  shooting  was  to  take  place.  The  naiives  gave  as  a 
reason  for  the  killing  thai  the  murdered  man  was  a  bad  character, 
having  t  hreat ened  the  life  of  an  old  man  of  the  village,  and  having 
shot  al  two  men  the  iiighl  before  he  was  killed,  but  the  real  reason 
was  undoubtedly  because  of  a  family  feud,  of  which  I  will  -peak 
later. 

After  t  he  killing,  t  he  1  wo  murderers  left  1  his  place.  Shukurana  going 
t  o  1 1n-  village  of  Tarpkwa.  <  >n  'he  northern  shore  ot'  1  he  (  ape  iTiiiee 
of  Wales  Peninsula,  and  Avulik  to  another  village  near  (ape 
Thompson.  Avulik  came  back  here  this  spring  to  work  for  Nelson 
during  the  whaling  season,  and  it  has  been  my  intention  to  bring 
him  nil  board  the  />'<<//•  with  me  when  I  reported,  and  turn  him 
o\er  to  you.  I  had  planned  lo  do  this  without  exciting  his  suspi- 
cion-, for  it  seemed  quite  impracticable  for  me  to  seize  him  ami 
d     him     here    ,-i-    prisoner,    there    being   no    place    to   shut    him    up 


CRUISE  OP  THE  ('.  S.  REVENt'E  CUTTER  BEAR. 


23 


securely.  Ii  has  been  the  custom  of  the  natives  to  remain  at  ihe 
whaling  stations  until  tlie  ships  arrive  in  the  early  part  of  the  sum- 
mer,  so  as  to  get  theii'  pay.  and  1  could  easily  have  persuaded 
1 1 i tii  to  accompany  me  on  board  the  lUnr  without  exciting  his  suspi- 
cion ;  but  this  spring,  as  no  whales  were  caught,  no  pay  was  coming 
to  the  natives,  and  they  have  been  gradually  leaving  I'ot'  the  east- 
ward to  catch  their  fish  for  the  winter.  Avulik  seemed  in  no  hurry 
to  leave,  and  in  fact  lold  me  lie  was  going  to  wait  for  the  ships,  but 
when  1  returned  to  this  place  on  the  P  it  h  of  July,  altera  t  rip  to  the 
Point  Hope  village.  1  found  that  Avulik  and  his  brother  had  departed 
in  their  canoe  for  the  Kivalena  River,  where  they  intend  to  live 
the  coming  winter,  lie  probably  went  to  the  eastward  to  fish  like 
the  other  natives,  as  seal  is  very  scarce  here  now.  and  I  am  sure  he 
had  no  idea  of  my  intention  toward  him,  as  1  had  spoken  about  it  to 
no  one  but  Mr.  Xelson,  and  neither  he  nor  1  have  talked  of  the  mat- 
ter in  the  presence  of  anyone  else.  Avulik  can  be  found  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Kivalena  River,  and  Shukuraua  is  somewhere  on  the 
south  side  of  Kotzebue  Sound.  The  witnesses  to  the  affair  can  be 
found  here,  except   .Mr    Tilton,  who  is  probably  in  San   Francisco. 

This  murder  was  one  of  a  series,  resulting  from  a  tend  between  dif- 
ferent families,  all  the  people  connected  with  the  affair  be  in  g  orig- 
inally Port  Clarence  natives,  which  tribe  have  always  been  notorious 
for  the  number  of  their  killing  affairs. 

According  to  the  native  custom  and  tradition,  when  one  man  is 
killed  by  another,  some  one  of  the  relatives  of  the  murdered  man  is 
hound  to  avenge  the  deed,  and  this  second  murder  must  in  turn  be 
avenged,  and  soon,  ihus  creating  a  feud,  a  state  of  affairs  which  is 
by  no  means  confined  lo  uncivilized  peoples.  Usually,  however, 
when  a  native  has  done  any  killing-  \>  hi  eh  must,  according  to  the  cus- 
tom, be  avenged,  he  leaves  his  village  and  t  ransfers  his  home  to  some 
ot her  pail  of  the  coast,  so  thai  he  will  be  obliged  to  be  cont inually  on 
his  guard,  and  thus  it  is  often  many  years  before  the  original  murder 
is  avenged.  This  was  the  case  in  the  affair  at  Point  Hope.  Washok 
was  ihe  son-in-law  of  a  Port  Clarence  native  by  the  name  of  Iiov- 
henna.  who.  because  of  some  murder,  had  moved  with  his  family  to 
Point  Hope.  Avulik  belonged  to  another  family  That  had  also  been 
obliged  to  move  away  from  Port  Clarence,  and  had  established  their 
home  on  the  Kivalena  River.  Washok  had  been  concerned  in  the 
killing  of  some  member  of  the  Avulik  family,  which  called  for  revenge, 
and  he  met  his  deal  1 1  last  fall  as  t  he  outcome  of  that  feud.  Prom  the 
native  standpoint  it  now  becomes  incumbent  upon  some  member  of 
the  Washok  family  to  kill  some  member  of  the  Avulik  family,  though 
it  may  be  years  before  circumstances  bring  together  the  representa- 
1 1  ves  of  t  lie   t  wo  fa  inilies. 

There  being  no  headman,  chief,  or  lawgiver  among  the  different 
villages  or  tribes   of   the    Kskimo,  each    native   familv  is  a   law   unto 


24 


CKl'ISE    OK    THE     I".   S.    KEVENUE    (  UTTEH     HEAR. 


itself,  a  ii<  I  up  In  1 1  if  |  ircscii  I  I  line  tin-  nut  i  ves  having  been  iiinlei'  little 
or  mi  rest  mini .  have  killeil  ami  revenued  as  their  t  rail  it  ions  or  inelina- 
liuns  made  il  expedient.  They  haYe.  as  a  rule,  confined  their  killing 
to  oilier  nal  i  Yes,  1  ho  n  it'll  1  here  ha  Ye  been  isolated  eases  where  a  white 
nia  ii  was  1  he  viel  i  in. 

Some  time  in  Aiiit'iist.  I s  1 » 7 ,  a  yountt'  native  belonging  to  the  tape 
Prince  of  Wales  \  illaife  shol  and  killed  a  while  prospeetor  by  the  name 
of  l-'rank  IJoyd  while  llie  latter  was  on  his  way  up  the  Xoatuk  River 
on  a  prospect in, y  trip.  This  murder  was  undoubtedly  eonimitted  to 
jiYeiiife  the  death  of  the  yountt'  native's  father,  who  was  killed  some 
years  att'o  by  while  men  on  board  a  trading  vessel,  during  a  liifht 
between  the  vessel's  crew  ami  the  nalives  of  ('ape  I'rinee  of  Wales. 
1  do  mil  inlend  to  convey  by  the  above  the  idea  thai  the  Kskinio  is 
murderous  by  nature,  Far  from  thai  beinif  ihe  ease,  he  is.  as  a  raee, 
unusually  ifenlle.  kind,  and  ifood  natured:  but  even  annniit'  tin*  best 
tempered  of  people  quarrels  will  sometimes  occur,  and  then  if  a  kill- 
ing takes  place  the  feud  which  ensues  may  i';i  use  1  he  death  of  others 
in  the  course  of  several  years. 

<*n  or  about  the  '27 Xh  of  .May  last  another  murder  occurred  near 
Cape  Thompson.  A  natiYe  named  Anemeah  shol  and  killed  his  former 
wife  because  she  refused  to  ret  urn  and  live  with  him  in  company  w  it  h 
his  new  wife.  This  mur<ler  was  noi  1  lie  < nil  come  of  a  feud,  but  simply 
tlie  wanton  act  of  a  natiYe  who  has  a  reputation  anion,!*'  the  other 
Kskimos  as  a  Y('\-y  bad  man.  and  several  natives  came  to  me  after  the 
shoolintf  to  ask  if  I  was  not  tfointt'  to  kill  Anemeah  because  he  was 
such  a  bad  native  and  had  killed  his  wile,  lor  they  knew  I  came  from 
the  />'"/'.  and  their  only  idea  of  authority  outside  of  themselves  is 
represent  ed   by  1  hat    vessel. 

As  I  have  said,  the  Kskimos  have  no  chiefs  anion**;  themsol\*es:  con- 
sequently there  is  no  one  ainoiiu'  them  to  whom  they  owe  obedience, 
and  the  only  way  by  which  any  one  natiYe  can  train  ascendancy  over 
others  is  by  becoming  rich  as  viewed  from  a  natiYe  standpoint  :  that  is. 
he  in  list  haYe  plenty  of  furs,  deerskins,  food.  etc.  Such  a  man  is  called 
by  them  an  ""  ( )omailik,"  and  his  \cry  limited  authority  is  obtained 
simply  because  he  is  rich  and  can  afford  to  ifather  about  him  other 
natives  who  live  upon  his  bounty  and  do  his  bidding.  Consequently 
they  think  the  />"//'  is  sent  up  to  Alaska  each  year  by  some  hie 
while  ( )omailik.  and  as  she  has  on  board  what  seems  loihem  very 
biit  it'll  lis.  t  hey  look  ii  pon  and  recoifiiize  her  as  a  power  and  an  author- 
ity. I  assured  them  that.  Ihoiiifh  I  did  not  intend  to  kill  Anemeah 
for  his  offense,  when  the  />'<"/■  came  up  in  the  sprintr  Anemeah  would 
lie  taken  fa  r  a  way  a  nd  punished  for  what  he  did.  and  1  would  have 
endeavored  to  brin.if  him  on  hoard  the  I'e'if  when  she  arrived,  but  he 
was  taken  ill  with  some  ailed  inn  of  the  chest  and  died  July   pi. 

It  is  only  fair  to  t  he  I  Mini  Hope  iribeof  Kskimos  to  say  thai,  thoutfh 
these  two    killiiiif  affairs,  of   which   I  have  spoken,  happened  within  a 


CRl'ISE    OF     THE    U.   S.   REVENUE    Cl'T'l'EK     MEAR. 


ZO 


period  of  but  seven  months,  none  of  the  parlies  involved  were  mem- 
bers Hi'  thai  tribe,  and  thai  for  several  years  previous  there  lias  not 
been  a  single  killing  affair  anions  the  Poinl   Hope  natives. 

The  native  village  of  Tigera  is  situated  on  the  northern  shore  of 
the  extreme  end  of  the  spit  of  land  called  Point  Nope,  and  comprises 
in  all  abou  1  two  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants.  It  is  evidently  a 
wry  old  village,  for  the  graveyard  contains  ruins  <>f  thousands 
of  very  old  graves,  but  no  idea  of  the  probable  age  can  be  obtained 
from  the  natives,  as  they  have  no  conception  of  time  at  all.  and  do 
nol  even  know  their  own  ages  or  their  children's  after  the  latter  have 
passed  t  he  fourl  h  or  lift  h  year. 

Traditions  concerning  their  origin  are  very  hazy  and  unsatisfac- 
tory, bin  they  have  a  well-defined  one  that  they  originally  came  from 
Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  and  if  thai  is  true  it  must  have  been  many 
centuries  ago,  for.  as  I  have  said,  their  graveyard  is  exceedingly  old; 
and  t  hough  t  he  natives  of  Poinl  Hope  and  (ape  Prince  of  Wales  speak 
practically  the  same  language,  yet  many  of  the  words  have  different 
endings  in  the  two  places,  and  the  accenl  is  softer  at  Point  Hope; 
indeed,  the  accenl  becomes  still  softer  and  more  pleasing  as  one  gets 
farther  north,  so  that  the  hard  "  k  "  sound  of  the  Norton  Sound  dis- 
trict  is  changed  to  the  soft   "c"  sound  at   Point   Harrow. 

There  were  during  the  winter  of  isnT-'.is  thirteen  differenl  whaling 
stations  strung  out  at  intervals  along  the  shore  between  Point  Hope 
and  Cape  Seppings.  owned  and  run  by  while  men.  and  connected  with 
these  outfits  were  forty  white  men — t  hat  is.  there  were  forty  men  who 
were  not  Eskimos,  for  in  thai  country  every  man  who  is  not  a  native 
is  called  ;'  "  white  man."  whether  he  is  an  American.  Japanese.',  Por- 
tuguese, or  negro,  and  this  whaling  colony  on  Poinl  Hope  included 
all  these  nationalities  and  many  others. 

These  outfits  need,  besides  1  he  while  employees,  many  natives  to 
help  man  their  boats  during  the  whaling  season,  and  as  the  natives  of 
the  Point  Hope  village  prefer  to  hunt  the  whales  on  their  own  account, 
each  spring  large  numbers  of  natives  come  up  1  he  coasl  from  the  region 
of  Kol/.ebue  Sound,  and  the  Xoatuk  and  Kowak  rivers  to  work  for  the 
stations,  in  return  for  which  they  receive  as  pay  rifles,  ammunition, 
tobacco,  and  the  much-prized  white  man's  food — Hour  and  molasses. 
Thus  during  the  spring  and  the  early  pari  of  the  summer  there  is  a 
large  population  stretched  along  this  shore,  bill  later  in  the  summer, 
after  the  whaling  season  has  ended  ami  1  he  ice  has  left  the  beach,  these 
natives  all  depart  for  the  rendezvous  near  (ape  Ulossom.  and  the  coast 
is  deserted  again  save  for  the  whaling  stations  and  the  village  of  Tigera 
al   Point   Hope. 

The  Xoatuk  natives  had  plenty  of  stories  to  tell  me  of  gold  to  be 
found  in  the  small  streams  tributary  to  their  river,  but  upon  ques- 
tioning them  closely  I  invariably  found  it  was  someone  else  thai  had 
seen  the  n'old.  and  thev  were  simplv  tellinu'  me  what  thev  had  heard, 


2G 


(R'.'ISE    OF    THE    I".   S.    REVENUE    (TTTEH    BEAU. 


I  also  heard  l\vn  stories  of  an  old  man  living  on  the  Kowak  River 
who  hail  been  chased  many  years  ago  by  a  "caligabuk."  which  is  t  lie 
Kskimo  name  I'oi"  the  mammoth.  lint  very  little  dependence  is  l<>  he 
placed  in  'In-  average  Kskimo's  stories  of  strange  thing's,  for  they  are 
very  apt  to  tell  you  what  they  think  yon  would  like  to  hear,  hoping 
to  get  some  presenl  in  return  lor  their  in  format  ion.  and  for  this  rea- 
son they  draw   largely  upon  their  imagination. 

While  J  w  as  a  1  I'oinl  I  lope  a  si  ory  came  up  from  the  N'oat  uk  natives 
of  the  birth  of  a  most  remarkable  child.  Tin'  motherof  the  child  was 
an  unmarried  woman,  who  had  a  dream  prior  to  the  birth,  in  which 
the  (rood  Spirit  had  told  her  to  mime  him  "Jesus  Christ,"  and  when 
the  child  was  about  a  year  old  it  could  talk,  make  water  burn,  and 
was  endowed  with  the  power  to  tell  a  bad  person  from  a  good  one. 
According  to  the  story,  it'  a  good  person  approached  this  youngster  it 
would  laugh  and  crow  and  hold  out  its  hands  in  greeting,  but  if  a 
person  who  was  bad  came  near  him.  t  he  eh  i  Id  would  howl  and  cry  and 
call  out  for  the  bad  person  to  go  away.  The  imagination  of  the 
natives  in  tins  case  was  probably  stimulated  by  the  attempts  of  the 
missionaries  in  Alaska  to  teach  them  the  IJible,  and  one  native  hav- 
ing heard  somewhere  the  story  of  the  Savior's  birth  had  passed  his 
version  of  the  story  along,  which  became  twisted  and  distorted  by 
others  in  turn  until  it  reached  us  al  I'oint  Hope  in  the  shape  I  have 
staled  above. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  point  in  March  the  landscape  was,  of  course, 
one  vast  expanse  of  snow,  extending  in  all  di  red  ions,  and  so  continued 
until  the  summer,  when,  under  the  effect  of  the  continual  presence  of 
the  sun  above  the  horizon,  the  snow  rapidly  disappeared,  and  the  lat- 
ter pari  of  July  there  was  not  a  sign  of  snow  to  be  seen  anywhere 
except  on  the  tops  of  the  highesl  mountain-  back  in  the  country. 
It  was  truly  remarkable  how  <puckly  a  bank  of  -now  would  disap- 
pear under  the  influence  of  the  ever-presenl  sun.  and  on  the  tundra, 
flowers  (piickly  began  to  bloom,  even  while  other  parts  of  the  ground 
were  not  ent  i  rely  devoid  of  sm  iw  . 

When  the  l',i  nr  a  rid  ved  in  July  it  was  difheull  to  imagine  I  was  li'o 
miles  north  of  the  arctic  circle,  for  the  open  sea  showed  not  a  sign  of 
ever  having  had  ice  on  its  surface,  the  land  was  covered  with  many 
varieties  of  short-stemmed  and  brilliantly  colored  (lowers,  and  the 
temperature,  which  had  been  as  low  as  4-~>  during  the  winter,  was 
sue  1 1  t  hat  one  con  Id  wander  about  in  shirl  sleeves  and  not  feel  uncoiii- 
forlable.  And  y<-\  in  spite  of  the  fact  thai  we  could  walk  around 
light  ly  <dad  and  gat  her  (plant  it  ies  of  Mowers,  with  no  ice  or  s  now  to  be 
seen,  if  one  were  to  dig  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  I'oint  Hope  from  above  the  Kookpuk  Kiver  to  about  half 
way  to  ('ape  Thompson,  solid  glacial  ice  would  be  found  at  a  depth 
vnrvini:  from  i\  in   7  or  s  feel.      How    far  down  this  ice  extends  is  not 


CRUISE  OF  THE  II.  S.  KKVENUE  CUTTEK  BEAR. 


27 


known.  but    under    Mr.  Nelson's    storehouse  an    ice    house    lias    been 
chopped  out  to  a  depth  of    la  feet,  ami  llie  ice  is  still   clear  and  solid. 

The  range  of  mountains  which  extends  from  (ape  lasburne  sonlli 
to  Cape  Thompson  a  ml  l  hence  along  the  coast ,  conies  down  to  the  sea 
in  abrupt  bluffs  at  both  these  capes,  but  is  broken  about  halfway 
bet  wee  n  I  hem  where  the  Kookpuk  River  comes  through  to  empty  into 
t  he  inlet  just  noil  h  of  Point  1  lope.  The  sides  of  the  nioun tains  over- 
look ing  this  river  show  unmistakable  signs  of  corrosion  by  the  lateral 
moraines  of  a  glacier,  and  it  is  more  than  likely  thai  the  land  making 
out  from  these  mountains  in  a  sort  of  peninsula  and  terminating  in 
Point  Hope,  was  formed  by  the  soil  deposits  on  an  extinct  glacier. 
which  during  the  glacial  period  of  1  hat  region  came  down  through  the 
valley  now  forming  the  bed  of  the  Kookpuk  River. 

In  conclusion  1  will  slate  t  hat  the  account  of  Liebes  tfc  Co. 's  whaling 
station  at  this  place  for  services  and  supplies  furnished  the  overland 
expedition  is  not  ready  to  be  submitted  at  present,  bu1  Mr.  Nelson 
informs  me  he  will  have  the  same  ready  upon  the  return  of  the  Bear 
from  Point   Harrow. 

Very  respectfully.  K.   P.   IJEKTHOLF, 

Second   Lit  ntt  no  at .    /,'.    ('.   S. 

( 'apt .  Francis  Tittlk.  R.  c.  s.. 

(Join  mo  ndi  ikj   I  .  S.    L't  n  in't    Cutler  lit  or. 


KhTuKT  «)F  KIKST  LIMIT,  k  II.  .IAHVIS. 


OVERLAND    RELIEF    EXPEDITION. 

Point  Ban-on;  Alaska.  Jnhj  10.   18a8. 

Si  1: :  An  expedition,  consist  in<i'  of  ("apt.  A.  ('.  Sherman,  F.  Ilopson, 
.lames  (lark,  W.  .1 .  I  )rviien.  Am  mi  Koderhpie.  ( )sear  Thompson.  Peter 
Nelson,  Ivan  Kit.  and  two  natives,  will  leave  here  to-morrow  to  pro- 
ceed south  aloiiu'  the  eoasi  to  meei  your  command.  The  situation 
here  has  nol  materially  ehanued  since  my  last  report,  with  tlie  excep- 
tion of  the  loss  of  the  schooner  Push rn>  on  1  lie  i'<  1  instant,  having  been 
crushed  by  t  he  ice.  Her  crew  .  provisions,  and  out  tits  were  all  saved, 
and  the  vessel  is  now  hein.u'  stripped.  My  lasl  information  from  the 
steamer  Jinnn'n  was  of  the  dale  of  .Tune  1.  from  the  steamers  X>  "'- 
[mil  and  piupass  of  June  ll'.  a!  which  dales  they  were  all  ri.ulit. 
They  have  provisioned  until  aboul  Auuusl   la. 

Al  this  place  we  have  provisions  to  last,  under  the  prevent  ration, 
until  Angusl  l'ii.  Should  the  necessity  be  apparent,  the  provisions 
will  be  extended  to  last  the  full  month  of  August.  The  steamer 
P,i  Ireilf ■■/•« '-.  at  Sea  Horse  Islands,  has  flour  until  August  1.  and  we 
have  reserved  enough  here  for  lier  use  until  August  la.  I  am  sup- 
plying her  with  meat  as  she  needs  it.  I'p  to  this  date.  I  have  killed 
for  food  I .">'.•  reindeer,  ami  expect  to  have  in  kill  more  before  your 
ari'ival. 

1'niil  the  present  there  has  been  practical^  no  chamje  in  the  ice. 
and  during  the  pasi  ten  days  the  wind  has  been  vi-vy  unfavorable  for 
any  opening.  Should  t  his  cont  inue.  1  will  bc^'in.  not  later  than  Atiuust 
1.  to  move  some  of  the  men  south  alonii'  the  coast,  to  ii'o  as  far  as  ley 
(ape.  if  necessary,  to  meet  the  ships. 

1  would  suu'.uvsl  i  luil  you  vend  flour  to  1  he  P<  I r<  <U  ,■>  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, which,  miuiii  relieve  us  here  of  the  necessity  of  send inu'  the  51111 
pounds  we  have  reserved  for  her  use.  We  are  badly  in  need  of  (dot  lies 
ami  soap,  but  can  make  out  until  your  arrival.  Since  my  last  reporl 
i  here  h;i-  been  one  deal  h  —  Phillip  Mann,  seaman,  of  the  .!>  ss>  II.  p r<  <  - 
man — of  heart  disease.  At  present  the  health  of  the  people  is  yood . 
There  seein>  now  no  danger  of  any  distress.  Inn  we  will  be  in  urii'cnt 
need  should  the  ships  not  arrive  by  AultusI  I.  I  inclose  tor  your 
information    a    list    of   the  wrecked    men    now    under    mv  care.      Those 


E    P.  St'-no!' 


« 

* 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  (UTTER  BEAR.       T.) 

belonging  to   ili"'    llflriiU,-i    arc    being  cared    for  here  because  of  1  lie 
great  difficulty  in  getting  provisions  to  the  vessel. 
Respecl fully,  yours. 

I).    II.  Jarvis, 
First  Lir  nil- /Ki ///.  /.'.  ('.  S., 
( 'mil  md  nil  i  in/  ()ri  r/d/iil  Iif-hef  h.i'pi ii  if  inn. 

Capt.   !•'.  Tl'TTLE,   R.  ('.  S.. 

Cunt  urn  lid '/  mj    I    .    .S.    Hi  r<  hid     ('iifhr  Jli/ir, 


{'.  s.  Revenue  steamer  Bear, 

Sepff iiiin  r  1.  LSUS. 
Str:  The  overland  relief  expedition,  together  with  its  provisions 
and  outfits,  was  landed  about  .">  miles  from  the  village  of  Tununak, 
near  Cape  Vancouver,  Nelson  Island.  The  beach  at  thai  place,  at  the 
base  of  a  range  of  mountains,  was  narrow  and  strewn  with  a  great 
number  of  rocks  and  bowlders,  and  as  the  snow  "was  quite  deep  and 
soft  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  pack  our  outfit  over  this  road 
to  the  village.  The  shore  was  free  from  ice,  however,  and  a  half- 
breed  Russian  trader,  with  several  natives,  having  come  from  the  vil- 
lage in  their  kyaks  to  meet  us,  I  engaged  them  to  transport  the  outfit 
to  the  village  by  water.  This  they  did  by  lashing  their  kyaks 
together  in  pairs,  like  catamarans,  and  they  were  able  1<>  take  the 
entire  load  in  one  trip,  while  we  followed  along  the  beach  on  foot, 
reaching  the  village  just  before  dark.  The  village  was  formerly  the 
site  of  a  Catholic  mission,  but  that  had  been  abandoned,  and  at 
thai  time  the  population  consisted  of  the  trader,  Alexis  Kalenin, 
his  wife  and  family,  together  with  some  thirty  natives.  They  all 
lived  in  native  huts,  with  the  exception  of  Alexis,  who  occupied  a 
well-constructed  log  house  and  store.  Having  reached  the  village, 
we  were  taken  into  Alexis's  house  with  that  open-hearted  hospitality 
which  is  universal  among  the  natives  of  Alaska.  The  kyaks  arriving 
a  little  later,  the  natives  carried  everything  up  to  the  store,  when 
we  discovered  that  some  of  the  Hour  and  hard  bread  had  been  wet 
by  the  sea  and  was  unfit  for  use.  N'ow  that  the  expedition  had  at 
last  gotten  ashore,  it  was  important  to  get  started  on  the  journey,  and 
I  immediately  se1  to  work  bargaining  for  means  of  travel,  it  was 
fortunate  that  the  Bee  r  was  able  to  make  a  landing  a1  Tununak.  for, 
though  the  influx  of  miners  into  Alaska  had  made  dogs  scarce  along 
the  Yukon,  Alexis's  village  was  out  of  the  line  of  travel,  and  his 
dogs  had  not  yet  been  bought  up.  Ife  agreed  to  let  us  have  as  many 
as  we  needed,  furnish  natives  to  accompany  the  expedition,  and  go 
along  himself  as  a  guide  across  the  Yukon  Delta  country.  I  learned 
that    St.    .Michael    could    be    reached    in    about    twelve    davs.    if    ihe 


30  CRl'TSK    OF    THE    I".  S.    REVENUE    CUTTER    I'.EAR. 

weather  held  good  and  ihe  sleds  were  no1  heavily  loaded;  but,  as  1\vo 
of  Alexis's  teams  had  jusl  returned  from  an  eighl  days'  I  rip  to  the 
Kuskokwim  River,  lie  insisted  il  was  necessary  for  them  to  resl  a  day 
before  sell  i  1 1  «_»•  ou1  on  another  journey.  Realizing  llial  il  was  of  the 
ut  most  importance  to  gel  the  ^a^v  herds  at  Cape  I'rinee  of  Wales 
moving  north  as  soon  as  possible.  I  was  loath  to  lose  even  one  day; 
but  nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  starting  improperly  prepared,  and  it 
was  decided  to  post  pone  on r  depa rt  11  re  until  the  morning  of  1  he  IStli. 

When  the  boats  returned  to  the  Bear,  after  landing  us  on  the  10th, 
she  hove  up  anchor  and  steamed  offshore,  and  we  thought  she  had 
departed:  but  on  ihe  morning  of  the  17th  she  was  still  seen  in  the 
oiling,  and.  from  noises  Ave  heard  during  the  night,  it  was  concluded 
she  had  landed  the  sleds  and  dogs  that  had  been  obtained  in  I'nalaska, 
so  Alexis  and  Kolichoff  were  senl  down  to  the  landing  place  to  inves- 
tigate. They  returned  soon  after,  bringing  with  them  1  wo  sleds,  seven 
dogs,  some  dried  fish  for  dog  \\'a\^  and  some  other  articles  that  had 
not  come  ashore  the  previous  day.  The  remainder  of  the  17th  was 
spent  in  overhauling  our  clothes,  provisions,  and  outfit,  and  selling 
aside  enough  food  to  last  until  we  could  reach  St.  Michael.  1  eon- 
eluded  thai  for  quick  traveling,  a  load  of  from  I'nii  to  .'}()(>  pounds  was 
enough  for  each  sled,  and  the  arrangements  were  made  with  this  in 
view. 

It  was  learned  from  Alexis  that  there  were  native  villages  scattered 
along  through  the  country  to  the  Yukon,  and  at  such  convenient  dis- 
tances thai  one  could  be  reached  each  night,  and  it  would  not  be 
necessary  to  carry  a  large  ainoiini  of  dog  food,  as  sufficient  could  be 
obtained  as  these  villages  were  reached.  The  sleds  made  in  Seattle 
were  heavy  and  cumbersome,  while  those  of  Alexis  were  light  and 
strong,  and  thoroughly  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  country.  It  was 
finally  decided  to  take  three  of  the  hitler's  sleds,  and  one  of  ihose 
brought  from  the  ship,  assigning  to  each  member  of  the  expedition 
Ihe  sled  upon  which  were  packed  his  personal  outfit  and  sleeping 
bag,  together  with  such  portion  of  the  general  provisions  and  camp 
gear  as  would  make  an  equal  division  of  the  load  to  be  carried.  Such 
of  the  outfits  brought  from  the  ship  as  were  not  absolutely  needed 
were  discarded,  for  speed  being  the  thing  mosl  desired,  whatever 
interferei!  with  this  was  cast  aside.  All  arrangements  being  made, 
the  sleds  were  packed  on  the  nighl  of  the  17th  for  an  early  start  the 
next   moi'idiiii'. 

List  a/'  /n-nrisiitiis  mill  oiif/ifs  fiihrn  from  Tiitnnmh: 

Pound*. 

Tents  and  poles  ...  . . .      .    .    ........    .        .......  :>D 

Stove  and  pipe.  .      .    ....... .    'Jl 

«  Ml  stove  ..  .         ......       ...  to 

oil  ."")() 

( 'onkiiiLf  i;car  and  Lcrub  box         ... 40 

Two  axes  . .    .    . .    .    __    ...    in 


CKUISK  OF  THE  U.   S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAK.        31 

Pounds 

Two  rifles . .  _          .  _ . . 14 

One  shotgun     _    . ..         . ....._. . .- s 

400  rounds  rifle  ammunition    .           .  . .  . .  . .  50 

100  rounds  shotgun  ammunition . 25 

Four  clothes  bags  (personal  outfit)    .......                 ...._  140 

Four  sleeping  bags       ._    '-2(10 

Two  bags  of  mail  for  St.  Michael  and  Point  Barrow  _  75 

Bale  of  trade  tobacco _ . _......  50 

Sleeping  gear  and  outfit  for  natives  125 

One  ham . .  12 

Beans             -    ....  . 30 

Pork 50 

Bacon .  _.. ..  24 

Hard  bread 40 

Tea... 12 

Flour ..  5(i 

One  dozen  canned  meats .  . ..... 48 

Compressed  barley  soup  and  condensed  coffee  . 25 

Dogfish. 150 


Total..      ..    1,294 

The  camp  gear  consisted  of  a  wall  tent  of  light  ticking,  that  had 
been  made  on  board  ship,  S  by  lo  by  <>  feet  high,  the  walls  being  '.] 
feet;  and  a  sheet-iron  stove,  20  by  12  by  10  incites  deep,  with  the  pipe 
lifted  in  lengths  thai  telescoped  one  into  another,  and  short  enough  to 
go  inside  the  stove  when  not  in  use.  We  also  took  the  small  oil  stove 
and  a  supply  of  oil,  to  be  used  in  case  we  should  find  wood  scarce. 
This  oil  stove,  not  being  especially  constructed  for  such  an  expedi- 
tion, was  found  of  little  use,  for  it  had  no  protection  from  the  sur- 
rounding atmosphere,  and  much  of  the  heat  from  the  burners  was 
thus  lost.  It  consumed  a  great  deal  of  oil,  and  as  thai  article  was 
bulky,  heavy,  and  inconvenient  to  carry  on  the  sled,  the  stove  was 
finally  discarded.  Our  cooking  utensils  were  two  frying  pans,  two 
camp  kettles,  two  teapots,  and  a  large  knife  and  spoon.  In  addition 
each  member  of  the  parly  had  a  knife,  fork,  spoon,  tin  plate,  and 
cup.  together  with  a  large  hunting  knife.  All  these  small  articles 
were  carried  in  a  light  wooden  box  of  a  convenient  size  to  pack  suuglv 
on  the  sled.  The  beans,  pork,  and  ham  wore  boiled  before  leaving 
the  ship,  so  as  to  occupy  as  little  time  as  possible  in  preparing  our 
meals,  and  in  ease  we  were  prevented  from  having  a  fire  at  any  time 
there  would  be  something  to  eai  thai  would  not  need  cooking.  Across 
the  delta  country  there  is  very  little  brush  and  no  trees  or  timber, 
but  as  we  camped  al  villages  on  the  way  we  were  able  to  obtain  enough 
driftwood  or  brush,  from  the  natives  to  make  sufficient  tire  for  the 
litt  le  cooking  necessary. 

Before  daylight  on  the  morning  of  the  ISth  we  were  off,  with  4  sleds 
and  41  dogs,  Si  being  harnessed  to  each  of  the  sleds  belonging  to 
Alexis  and   1 -1  to  the  heavy  one  from  the  ship.      These  sleds  were  from 


■> 


ciaisi:  of    the   r.  s.  revenue  <ttter   hear. 


;i  in  1m  feci  long.  22  niches  wide  wit  h  1  he  runners  \2  inches  deep  and 
the  sides  about  IS  inches  high.  The  sled  is  an  open  framework  of 
hickory  or  oak,  no  more  wood  being  used  than  is  absolutely  necessary, 
and  all  the  parts  are  lashed  togel  her  with  strips  of  seal  skin  or  walrus 
hide.  l'r\v  or  no  nails  being  used :  so,  while  t lie  sled  is  very  s1  rong.  it  is 
also  llexible  and  able  to  withstand  tlie  constanl  rough  usage  to  which 
il  i>  subjected  in  traveling.  The  sle<l  cover,  of  lighl  drilling,  is  made 
large  enough  to  spread  oxer  the  whole  length  of  the  sled  on  the  bot- 
tom. The  articles  to  be  carried  are  then  snugly  packed  and  the  sides 
of  the  cover  hauled  up  and  lapped  over  on  top  so  all  articles  are 
entirely  covered,  and  the  whole  load  is  securely  lashed  to  the  sides  of 
the  sled  with  strips  of  hide  or  rope.  The  sled  is  now  ready  for  trav- 
eling, the  lashing  preventing  the  load  from  jolting  or  spilling  out 
during  the  frequenl  capsizing*  on  rough  trails,  and  the  cover  protect- 
ing the  articles  from  the  falling  and  driving  snow. 

The  harness  is  made  of  strips  of  heavy  ticking,  canvas,  sennit,  or 
seal  hide  aboul  '2  inches  wide,  and  is  all  in  one  piece  for  each  dog.  A 
strip  goes  around  the  dog's  neck  and  crosses  in  front  of  the  chest. 
w  here  1  he  t  wo  parts  are  fastened  1  ogel  her  to  form  a  collar.  The  ends 
then  go  underneath  between  the  forelegs  and  lead  up.  one  on  each 
side,  to  the  dog's  hack.  Anot  her  strip  is  fastened  to  the  top  of  i  he 
collar  a1  the  back  of  the  neck  and  leads  along  the  back  to  meet  the 
other  two  ends,  and  here  all  three  pieces  are  secured  together  and 
made  fast  to  a  small  piece  of  rope  aboul  iM'eet  long.  In  harnessing  a 
dog.  1  he  collar  is  put  on  over  his  head,  each  of  his  fore  feel  put  through 
one  of  the  loop-,  formed  by  the  ends  coming  together,  and  he  is  ready 
to  be  made  fasl  to  the  sled.  A  larger  rope,  the  length  of  which 
depends  upon  the  number  of  dogs  lived,  is  made  fast  to  the  front  of 
the  sled,  and  to  this  is  secured  the  small  rope  of  the  dog's  harness: 
the  dogs  being  harnessed  in  pairs,  one  on  each  side  of  the  cent  ra  I  rope, 
and  yoked  in  (dose  to  this  by  short  lines  to  their  collars.  A  i earn  gen- 
erally cousisis  of  an  odd  number  of  dogs,  t  he  odd  one  being  harnessed 
to  the  central  line  ahead  of  the  others  and  acts  a-  a  leader.  This 
method  is  used  by  all  the  while  people  in  the  bower  Yukon,  and  is 
generally  superior  to  the  native  mode  of  stringing  the  dogs  out  in 
one  long  line. 

The  next  village  on  our  route  after  leaving  Tununak  was  I'koga- 
miile.  mi  the  northern  shore  of  Nelson  Island,  opposite  the  mainland, 
and  ii  was  usual  in  going  there  to  travel  over  the  ice,  following  the 
eoasi  I  i  lie  to  a  void  crossing  a  range  of  mountains  extending  along  t  he 
shore  beiweeti  the  two  villages.  The  southeast  wind  which  prevailed 
for  several  days  had.  however,  driven  the  ice  over  to  the  westward 
and  cleared  the  entire  weslcrn  and  northern  shores  of  the  island,  so 
we  were  compelled  to  cro^  this  range,  and  the  snow  being  soft,  the 
first  day'--  .journey  was  particularly  hard  for  both  men  and  dogs. 
When  the  stall    wa>   made  there    were    le-sides   the    tour    members   of 


T 
V 


CHl'ISK    OF    Till'.     T.   S.   REVENUE    Cl'TTEH    BEAK. 


33 


the  expedition.  Alexis,  who  acted  as  guide,  and  four  Kskimos.  who 
were  to  help  will)  (lie  sleds  and  go  ahead  to  break  a  trail,  for  where 
t  here  is  no  beaten  trail  or  road  il  is  the  custom  for  one  man  to  go  ahead 
and  pick  out  the  mad.  The  team  with  the  best  leader  conies  first, 
and  he  faithfully  follows  the  footprints  of  the  man  in  the  lead,  and 
the  other  teams  follow  the  lirsl  one.  In  traveling  over  a  compara- 
tively level  county,  with  a  good  road  and  light  loads  on  the  sleds,  the 
dogs  will  maintain  a  trot,  which  is  faster  than  a  man  can  walk,  but 
not  as  fast  as  lie  can  run,  so  the  trail  maker  runs  ahead  for  some  dis- 
tance and  then  slows  down  to  a  walk  until  the  head  team  comes  up 
with  him.  when  he  repeats  the  operation.  I>\  this  alternate  running 
and  walking  a  man  can  keep  ahead  of  the  dogs  for  a  considerable 
time  withoul  excessive  fatigue.  Many  of  the  natives  who  travel  a 
greal  deal  in  the  winter  can  keep  up  this  mode  of  travel  all  day  and 
show   little  sign  of  exhaustion  when  camp  is  made  at   night. 

When  we  stalled  from  Tuiimiak,  Alexis  went  ahead  to  pick  out  a 
road.  The  snow  was  deep,  and  lie  was  compelled  to  use  snowshoes. 
For  some  time  he  led  us  up  a  gentle  incline  and  fair  progress  was 
made,  but  we  soon  came  to  the  leal  ascent  of  the  mountain,  and  then 
our  progress  was  very  slow,  many  places  were  so  steep  that  it  required 
three  or  four  of  us  to  help  each  sled  up.  The  summit  was  reached  al 
last,  and  as  we  were  all  rather  fatigued  with  the  unusual  exertion  of 
pushing  behind  dog  teams,  we  were  glad  to  be  able  to  sil  on  our  sleds 
while  the  dogs  trotted  down  into  the  valley  below.  Here  a  hall  was 
made  beside  a  small  stream,  where  we  could  break  the  ice  and  obtain 
water  to  wash  down  a  lunch  of  hard  bread  and  cold  ham.  Our  moun- 
tain climbing  for  the  day  was  not  over,  for  there  was  still  another 
portion  of  the  range  to  be  crossed,  which  was  even  higher  and  steeper 
than  the  one  we  had  just  come  over.  Refreshed  by  our  rest  and 
lunch,  we  started  for  the  second  ascent  in  good  spirits. 

In  course  of  time,  after  much  tugging  and  pushing  of  sleds,  and 
urging  of  dogs,  we  reached  the  summit,  where  we  found  ourselves  in 
the  midst  of  a  furious  storm  of  wind  and  snow,  winch  was  so  thick 
that  il  was  some  time  before  Alexis  and  the  natives  could  decide 
upon  the  proper  direction,  for  there  was  some  danger  of  our  taking 
the  wi'oim  course  and  going  over  a  precipice  into  the  sea.  After 
considerable  jabbering  they  finally  came  to  a  decision  and  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  the  descent,  which  Alexis  told  us  was  so  steep 
that  the  dogs  could  not  run  fast  enough  to  keep  ahead  of  the  sleds. 
The  dogs  were  turned  loose,  small  chains,  brought  along  for  the  pur- 
pose, were  wound  around  the  runners  to  impede  the  rapid  descent, 
and  we  proceeded  to  eoasl  down  the  side  of  this  mountain,  which, 
as  near  as  I  could  judue,  was  some  2. (><>()  feel  high.  The  snow"  was 
quite  deep,  but  with  two  people  seated  on  each  sled  this  addi- 
tional weighl  gave  us  a  moment  urn  1  hat  nothing  short  of  a  solid  obsta- 
cle could   slop,  and  we  flew  aloim   al    such    a    rate   that    in    aboul    ten 


34 


curisi:   of   Tin;    r.  s.  rfvkxfe   cuttei;    hear. 


minutes  we  reached  t  he  ycnt  lo  slope  al  1  he  base  of  1  he  until  lit  a  ill  ami 
tin-  sleds  cairn-  In  a  stop.  Here  we  wailed  for  the  doys,  for  the  little 
fellows  had  to  come  down  on  foot  ami  were  far  behind.  They  soon 
hove  in  siyhi .  floiinderini;  alony  ihroiiyh  the  deep  snow  ami  following 
tlie  trail  of  tlie  sleds.  Alexis  now  showed  ns  some  dark  spots  on  the 
snow,  several    miles  ilistant.  which    he  said  was   the  villaye   ;it   which 

We    were    In   slop    for  1  lie    II  i  U  1 1 1  . 

As  soon  as  ihe  doys  came  up  they  were  harnessed  ayain.  and  we 
proceeded  ilown  I  he  yradual  slope  to  the  beach,  alony  which  the 
guides  led  ns  until  about  dark,  when  we  reached  I'koyaniute.  a  mil  ive 
villaye.  consist  iny  of  seven  small  lints  and  one  la  rye  one.  The  small 
lints,  called  ■•  iyloos."  are  occupied  by  one  or  more  families,  often 
beiny  very  crowded.  The  larye  hut  was  the  ""  ka/.heem .**  used  for 
the  dance  house,  council  house,  general  workhouse,  and  place  of 
lodyiny  for  travelers;  and  is  occupied  by  all  the  male  inhabitants  of 
the  village  who  have  no  families — thai  is.  the  bachelors  and  wid- 
owers—  no  women  beiny  admitted  to  the  ka/.heem  except  during'  a 
dance  or  to  briny  food  to  the  men.  All  the  huts  are  buili  after  the 
same  fashion,  all  the  men.  women,  and  children  old  enouyh  to  work 
aidiny  in  i  he  eonsi  rum  ion  of  each. 

In  the  summer,  when  the  upper  portion  of  the  yround  has  thawed, 
a  hole  in  the  form  of  a  stpia re  is  scooped  out  to  a  depth  of  three  or 
four  feet.  The  sides  of  the  hut  arc  then  formed  with  sticks  of  drift- 
wood yal  here«l  in  the  rivers  and  on  t  he  coasl  and  lilled  in  wit  h  brush, 
lie  heiyhl  of  t  he  sides  depend iny  upon  the  size  of  the  hut.  The  roof 
is  made  in  a  very  iiiyeiiious  manner.  hoys  of  driftwood  are  laid 
alony  the  top  of  the  sides  and  lashed  there  with  hide  rope;  two  loys, 
in  dclied  on  1  he  ends  to  til  securely  and  close,  a  re  then  laid  across  these 
on  opposite  sides,  but  a  litl  le  farther  in  t ((ward  1  he  center.  Two  more 
loys  are  then  placed  across  these  on  the  other  two  sides  and  still 
farther  in  inward  the  center:  then  two  more  across  these,  and  so  on 
unt  il  a  sort  of  arch  is  formed,  which  is  1  hen  covered  and  filled  in  with 
brush  and  dirt,  leaviny  a  hole  in  the  center  of  the  roof  about  two  or 
three  fed  square,  according  to  the  size  of  the  hut.  In  the  la  rye 
kazheeiu  tin-  center  of  the  roof  is  often  In  to  1 1'  feel  above  the  floor. 
Other  pieces  of  d ri ft  wood,  spl il  into  rouyh  slabs,  are  laid  inside  in 
form  the  floor,  leaviny  a  space  about  two  feel  square  near  the  south 
side  of  the  hut.  K ron i  this  hole  in  the  floor  a  passaye  has  been 
scooped  i oi  1  1;  rye  enouyh  for  a  man  to  crawl  t  hrouyli.  This  leads  to 
the  surface  of  t  he  yround,  open  iny  into  a  small  cut  ranee  built  ayainst 
the  south  side  of  the  hut.  and  this  in  turn  leads  to  the  open  air. 
The  wlmlc  sirucluro  is  covered  with  dirt,  bill  is  not  used  for  a  habita- 
tion until  the  winter,  when  the  yround  has  frozen  and  the  snow  has 
covered  e\erythiny.  alhtwiny  no  wind  to  yet  in  except  throiiyh  the 
openi  imv  i  »ver  the  open  iny  lead  iny  into  the  small  cut  ranee  -  huny 
a  he, i  •  \    pici f   «d< m  to  keep  on!    as    much    air   as    possible,  and    t  he 


CRl'ISE    <)F    THE 


-.    REVENUE    CUTTER     HEAR. 


3;1 


opening  in  the  root'  is  covered  with  pieces  of  dried  intestines  of  the 
seal  or  walrus  sewed  together.  This  not  only  keeps  the  warm  air 
inside  from  escaping,  hut,  being  thin  ami  translucent,  admits  light 
during  1  lie  day. 

In  a  lint  of  this  sort  Idled  with  people,  the  animal  heal  from  their 
bodies,  together  with  that  from  the  seal-oil  lamps,  soon  raises  the 
temperature  so  the  natives  sit  around  with  the  upper  part  of  their 
bodies  entirely  uncovered.  fires  a  re  not  used  in  the  huts.  and.  as  a 
rule,  all  the  cooking  is  done  in  the  outside  entrance.  The  farther 
north  we  went  the  cleaner  the  houses  were;  whether  this  was  '\\\<-  to 
our  being  earlier  in  the  southern  pari  of  the  country,  before  the  cold 
weal  her  sel  in  and  everything  was  fro/en  up  so  it  could  be  kept  clean, 
or  to  a  better  general  character  of  the  nat  ives,  it  is  difficult  to  state;  at 
any  late,  the  houses  farther  north  generally  were  cleaner,  and  we 
often  saw  houses  there  where  the  floors  were  washed  each  morning. 
The  only  provision  for  ventilation  was  a  small  hole  through  the  roof, 
about  :'  iir  :i  inches  in  diameter,  and  ai  night,  in  cold  weather,  this 
was  invariably  stopped  up.  The  condition  of  the  air  can  better  be 
i  magi  ned  than  experienced,  when  fifteen  or  t  wenty  natives  are  sleeping 
inside   the  small  room   and  a  seal-oil  lamp  or  two  burn   continuously. 

The  wind  being  from  the  south,  the  thermometer  registered  oO 
above  zero,  and  1  he  weal  her  was  quite  w  arm.  The  deep  snow,  together 
with  our  not  being  accustomed  to  t  he  unusual  traveling,  made  the  day's 
trip  very  tiresome,  and  we  were  all  wet  and  pretty  well  played  mil  by 
the  time  we  reached  the  village.  We  were  urged  to  spend  the  night 
in  the  ka-/.lieeni.  but  it  was  found  to  be  too  crowded  and  filthy,  and 
we  decided   to  pit  ell  the  1  enl . 

<  >ur  arrival  seemed  to  create  some  commotion,  and  t  hough  we  not  iced 
quite  a  large  population  ai  first,  all  the  women  and  children  ran  into 
their  huts  on  our  nearer  approach.  Alexis  informed  us.  that,  with 
the  exception  of  one  or  two  of  the  Jesuil  missionaries,  we  were  the 
first  while  travelers  who  had  gone  through  this  part  of  the  country 
for  many  years:  and.  as  it  had  been  the  practice  of  the  traders  in  the 
old  days  to  steal  the  women  during  their  visits  to  a  village,  these 
women  were  taking  the  p recant  ion  of  getl  ingoul  of  sighl  lest  we  should 
do  the  same  thing.  As  soon  as  the  teal  was  pitched,  the  camp  gear, 
sleeping  bags,  and  sufficient  food  for  the  evening  and  morning  meals 
were  taken  inside,  the  dogs  unharnessed,  and  the  sleds  placed  on  the 
racks,  of  which  there  are  generally  several  in  each  village.  These 
racks  are  skeleton  plat  forms  of  wood  built  on  posts  st  uck  in  the  ground 
and  high  enough  to  prevent  the  dogs  from  reaching  anything  on  top. 
All  articles  not  taken  into  the  tenl  or  the  huts  must  be  pn1  up  on  the 
racks,  for  the  dogs  are  so  ravenous  they  will  eat  everything  not  made 
of  wood  or  metal.  When  obliged  to  camp  where  there  is  no  village. 
everything  eatable  must  be  unloaded  and  carried  into  the  tent,  ami 
that  tisrhtlv  closed,  or  there  will  be  little  lefl   in  the  morninu'. 


3«l        CRUISE  OF  THE  I".  S.  REVENUE  (UTTER  HEAR. 

After  llic  evening  meal  of  warmed-over  pork  and  beans,  tea.  and 
lianl  ! )]» *a<  1  had  been  pr«'par«*«l  ami  eaten.  1 1  m ■  dogs  were  \\-<\  ami  the 
days  work  was  over.  Feeding  tin-  ■  i  •  >g-  was  always  a  1  rying  ami  inter- 
esting  task.  They  an-  always  hungry,  ami  upon  appearing  among 
tlifiii  with  an  armful  of  dried  lish.  in  their  eagerness  to  gel  a  sti'ay 
inmit  ht'ul.  they  crowd  around  in  one  lighting,  jumping  mass,  and 
make  ii  difficult  for  one  to  even  keep  his  balance.  After  throwing 
(•til  a  lish  to  each  dog.  it  takes  all  hands  with  clubs  to  keep  off  the 
larger  fellows  and  see  thai  the  smaller  and  weaker  ones  are  allowed 
to  keep  and  eat  their  share.  Usually  they  are  peaceful  enough,  but 
when  being  !'e(l  they  are  like  wild  animal-,  and  snarl  and  bite  each 
other,  ami  keep  up  a  continual  tight  until  everything  is  eaten.  When 
the  meal  is  finished  and  there  is  nothing  more  to  ea1  in  sight,  they 
will  lie  down  (piietly  in  the  snow  and  go  to  sleep.  They  are  tough 
and  need  m>  protection.  During  the  coldesl  weather  and  the  most 
violent  blizzards,  they  will  curl  upon  the  snow  anywhere  and  sleep, 
and  when  the  snow  has  drifted  over  them,  get  up.  shake  themselves. 
and  lie  down  again  in  the  same  place  for  another  sleep. 

Si  i  in  In  tj,  I  )>  '■<  mil*  r  l'i.  —  The  wind  was  light  from  the  northeast,  and 
the  thermometer  I'/i  above  zero.  We  arose  early,  broke  camp,  packed 
the  sleds,  and  were  on  the  road  by  half  past  7.  Though  the  mwi  vil- 
lage lay  in  a  northeast  direction,  we  were  obliged  to  travel  several 
miles  southeast,  along  t he  1  tanks  of  the  river  separating  Nelson  Island 
from  the  mainland,  before  we  found  the  ice  of  sufficient  thickness  to 
cross  with  the  sleds.  From  here  we  took  a  genera!  uortheasl  course, 
following,  and  sometimes  crossing,  innumerable  small  streams  and 
lakes,  but .  alt  hough  we  passed  over  a  level  count  ry.  we  did  not  make 
good  time,  as  the  crust  on  the  snow  was  thin,  and  the  dogs  and  sleds 
were  continually  breaking  through.  At  noon  we  came  across  it  few 
sticks  of  driftwood  on  the  banks  of  a  frozen  stream  and  stopped  to 
make  tea.  have  soniet  liing  1o  eat .  and  allow  the  dogs  a  shoii  re>i .  after 
which  we  wenl  on.  reaching  the  native  village  of  Ki-yi-licug  a  mute 
about  dark,  half  past  1.  Mere  we  found  wood  so  scarce  thai  we  were 
obliged  to  t  rade  with  the  people  for  some  pieces  from  an  old  ami  unused 
lint   which  had  1  »eeii  receni  ly  t  orn  i  lown. 

When  we  started  from  Tununak.  1  wo  of  our  teams  were  made  up  of 
very  young  dogs  that  could  not  be  expected  to  -land  the  strain  of 
travel  for  ui  y  length  of  lime,  and  Alexis  had  expected  to  be  able  to 
replace  these  teams  with  fresh  dogs  from  this  village;  bin  after  -up- 
per he  reinriied  to  the  lent  from  a  visil  to  the  native  hut-,  and 
an  lion  need  i  he  unwelcome  news  thai  all  t  he  dogs  belonging  here  were 
abseii i  on  a  :  rip  to  a  neighboring  village  for  lish.  and  it  would  be  l  wo 
day-  bi-fnre  i  hey  eould  be  placed  at  mil'  disposal.  Not  wishing  to  lose 
an)  '  i im«-  in  reaehing  the  deer  herd  at  ( 'ape  I  Vii ice  of  Wales,  i  decided 
to  take  t  In-  t  wo  good    team-  and    go   on  ahead   to  St.   Michael    with   Dr. 


CKU1SE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


;r 


Call  and  two  of  the  native  guides,  leaving  Lieutenant  IJertholf  and 
KoltchofT  to  follow"  as  soon  a--  tin*  village  dogs  returned.  There  was 
the  more  reason  for  this,  as  native  promises  can  not  always  be  relied 
upon,  and  the  dogs  mighf  not  return  for  some  days.  There  was  also 
the  ehanee  of  1  he  weal  her  turning  bad,  rendering  travel  impossible, 
ami  now  that  the  weather  was  favorable,  I  desired  to  ij'ei  ahead  as  far 
as  we  con  Id  while  the  good  spell  lasted. 

Moiidaij,  ])>  a  iiiln  /•  ><>. —  When  we  arose  early  in  order  to  complete 
the  arrangement  s  for  the  division  of  the  [tarty,  the  weather  was  found 
to  be  getting  colder,  the  thermometer  registering  Mi  above  zero,  and 
the  wind  from  the  northward.  Our  outfit  was  separated  into  two 
parts;  leaving  the  oil  stove  with  half  the  provisions  and  cooking  gear 
with  Lieutenant  IJertholf,  while  the  other  half,  with  the  tent  and  iron 
stove,  was  packed  on  the  sleds  Dr.  Call  and  myself  were  to  take. 
After  giving  Lieutenant  IJertholf  written  instructions  for  his  guidance 
(see  Appendix).  I  left  the  village  with  Dr.  Call,  taking  the  two  good 
teams  and  two  of  the  native  guides.  Our  route  was  over  a  country 
very  much  the  same  as  the  day  before,  and  led  along  a  network  of 
small  lakes  and  fixers  which  1  ra versed  the  country  in  all  direct  ions. 
I  gathered  the  impression  thai  in  the  summer,  when  the  snow  and 
ice  had  melted,  this  section  must  be  more  or  less  of  a  swamp  This 
appeared  to  be  the  general  character  of  the  delta  country  through 
which  we  traveled,  until  the  Ivashunak  River  was  reached.  The 
banks  of  the  streams  were  clearly  defined,  but  in  the  spring,  when 
the  snow-  melts  from  the  land  and  the  ice  breaks  up  in  the  rivers  and 
lakes,  the  water  must  overflow  the  whole  country.  The  villages  are 
built  on  the  highest  knolls  to  be  found,  for  at  such  times,  they  are  the 
only  places  above  water,  and  even  1  hey  are  often  flooded.  The  nat  ives 
are  miserably  poor:  their  only  food  is  fish  and  birds,  with  occasional 
seals,  which  they  obtain  from  the  coast  in  the  summer.  They  are 
also  poorly  elad,  their  clothing  being  made  of  the  breasts  of  birds  and 
sealskins,  and  their  boots  generally  of  tanned  salmon  skin.  Farther 
north,  all  these  are  made  of  warm,  comfortable  deerskin,  and  1  here  is  a 
ureal  di  fference  in  the  strong,  healthy  appearance  of  the  people  there. 

Although  we  rarely  kepi  going  in  the  same  direction  for  very  long, 
the  guide  making  innumerable  1  wisls  and  turns  in  order  to  pick  ou1  a 
good  road,  we  preserved  a  general  northerly  course,  which  brought  us 
late  in  the  afternoon  to  Akoolukpugamute,  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  A/oon  River,  a  few  miles  to  the  northward  of  where  the  Xuguka- 
chuk  empties  into  it.  and  here  we  camped  for  the  night. 

Tin  siln if.  I ),  n  mix  r  11. —  When  we  broke  camp  in  the  morning,  the 
thermometer  had  fallen  to  \  below  zero,  and  as  the  wind  had  fresh- 
ened from  the  northward  it  made  the  weather  quite  sharp.  To  tin.' 
northward  of  Akoolukpugamute  a  shorl  range  of  mountain-  extends 
in  an  east  and  west  direct  ion.  and  I  had    intended   to  cross  this  range 


c  i  M ' 


:\h 


(HriSK    OK    THE     l".   s.    liEVEXl'E    CTTTER    BEAK. 


in  order  lo  lake  the  shorlesl  r<  n  1 1 « •  tnwanl  1 !  h  •  "\"  1 1 1-c « >i  1 :  but  the  natives 
of  iIm-  villages  warnei  1  us.  l  hat .  as  l  he  snow  on  the  mourn  a i  lis  was  verv 
dec]  i.  1  ravel  in  r;  \voul<l  be  slow  and  difficult .  and  1  ha1   il   was  doiibl  ful  if 

\\c  \\ « » i  i  ] « I  lit-  alilc  1"  cross  llic  inoiuitain  and  reach  the  village  beyond 
in  iwn  days,  sn  I  derided  In  make  a  detour  around  the  western  end  of 
I  he  ramie  and  have  i  lie  ad  vantage  of  a  level  road. 

We  i  raveled  during  the  day  in  a  general  northeast  direetion.  and 
soon  after  leaving  the  villaiu-  the  trail  crossed  a  medium-sized  lake, 
railed  li\  the  natives  N'ani  wuknuk.  the  oni]ei  of  which  is  the  Azoon 
IJiver.  Then  we  followed  for  some  dislance  alone;  a  winding  si  ream 
known  a>  the  Airoocharuk.  and  then  struck  across  the  country  until 
we  came  to  a  I  a  rue  body  of  water,  called  by  the  natives  Lake  Ae.oo. 
upon  which  we  traveled  several  hours,  finally  reaching  the  village 
of  (  li  ii  k  \\  oki  ulieiiuam  ut  e  abotil  dark.  This  lake  ap])eared  to  be 
about  lil  miles  lone;,  and  ■")  miles  wide,  having  its  "feat esi  lenulh  in  an 
east  and  w  esl  direction,  and  llic  village  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
half  of  the  northern  shore.  A  few  miles  further  to  the  eastward  is 
t  he  iin  nit  li  of  a  uood-si/ed  river,  called  by  the  ual  i  ves  t  he  '•  I/.aw  erk- 
nuk."  which  1  hey  declare  rises  bet  ween  the  Yukon  and  t  he  Ivuskokwim 
rivers,  where  these  t  wo  st  reams  come  rlosesl  toe-el  her.  and  has  a  cnii- 
nection  with  the  Yukon.  The  river  inven  on  the  eharl  as  the  Kulich- 
avak  answers  this  same  description,  exeepi  as  to  ihe  -<■,;-  ■■;■. 
posit  ion  of  its  moil  t  h.  ami  t  he  lake  into  which  it  empties,  ami  il  seemed 
t  o  me  t  hat  Izawerknuk  and  K  ulicha  \  ak  were  but  i  wo  di  I'fei-eiil  names 
for  the  same  stream.  Tin-  water  of  Lake  Ae.<>"  is  fresh,  while  the 
streams  thai  had  m>  eoniieetioii  with  the  Yukon  were  said  by  the 
nat  ives  to  be  salt. 

\\'<  il in  siln  ij.  I  )i  i-i  lulu  r  .'.'.  Tin-  wind  was  still  blowing  fresh  from 
the  north,  and  1  he  t  hermomeier  showed  u  below  zero  in  the  inorniiii:. 
fa  Hi  n. i!'  to  1  .">  below  in  i  he  afternoon.  We  had  hardly  accustomed  our- 
selves to  such  cold,  and  our  cloihini:  was  not  well  suited  for  it.  so  we 
had  io  be  movine;  quite  lively  d  urine;  1  he  day  to  keep  warm.  After 
h-a\  itiu'  1  he  village  t  he  1  rail  le<|  in  a  ejeneral  nort  hwesl  direct  ion.  ski  rt- 
ini:  the  base  of  the  ran.n'e  of  mountains  around  which  we  had  conn-. 
crossed  and  followed  numerous  small  streams,  and  finally,  late  in  the 
afternoon,  brouuht  us  to  Lake  Kn^an,  the  source  of  ihe  Manokinok 
Ui\'er.  The  si  ia]»e  of  1  his  lake  is  different  from  thai  pul  down  on  t  he 
it.  and  appeared  io  be  more  like  two  lake-  with  the  shores  cum- 
in n  close  i  o-ei  In  r  near  t  he  center,  for  mi  ne;  a  narrow  passage,  and  1  he 
■  i - \ t < ■  1 1 1 1  i 1 1 u1  some  1 1'  or  la  miles  in  a  northwest  direction.  <  »n 
the  eastern  -limv.  near  the  narrow  passage,  two  isolaled  h  lis  ab  il 
i.'11  o>-  :;  feet  liiuli  rise  out  of  the  low  surrounding  country.  After 
strikin-  the  southern  portion  of  this  lake  we  traveled  about  two 
lion  i-s  be  t'o  re  com  i  111;  io  the  narrow  pari .  when  t  he  guides  t  it  i-m-d  io 
thelefi.  I'ollowine- alonu'   ihe   shore  some   distance  and    linallv.  aboiil 


ciaisi:   i  if  t 


KEVENl'E    CUTTER    BEAR. 


3!  I 


7  in  ilic  evening,  reached  the  village  of  Kogerchtehmute,  which  is 
situated  on  tin-  southwestern  shore  of  tile  northern  portion  of  Lake 
K ogga u ,  a  few  miles  from  its  outlet,  tlie  Manokinok  River,  and  here 
we  pil  elied  our  lent   for  l  he  nighl . 

Tim rsihi //,  / )>  n  mill  /■  !■'>. — The  mercury  s1  ill  registered  I />  below. 
lull  as  there  was  little  or  ik>  wind  traveling  was  more  comfortable 
than  the  day  before.  Leaving  Kogerchtehmute  aboiil  s  o'clock  in 
t  he  morning,  we  crossed  the  northern  portion  of  Lake  Koggan,  and 
taking  a  general  northeast  course  traveled  over  the  same  character 
of  country  as  on  the  previous  days,  excepl  that  now  the  brush  was 
larger  and  more  plentiful.  When  we  reached  the  Kashunak  Kiver, 
many  small  trees  were  noticed  along  the  banks,  which  were  somewliat 
higher  than  the  banks  of  the  ot  her  st  reams  we  had  crossed.  Follow- 
ing along  the  frozen  surface  of  this  stream  for  several  miles,  the 
guide  h  rough  1  us  to  the  small  nat ive  village  of  Chukwokt ulik,  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  river,  about  southwesl   from  Andreafski. 

/'ri'ltii/,  I  )<  ri  uihi  ,-  :Jh — The  lighl  wind  had  died  out  into  a  calm  by 
morning,  and  the  thermonieter  had  gone  up  to  zero  when  we  broke 
camp.  We  still  preserved  the  same  general  direction  as  on  the  -2'.)(\ 
(northeast).  Tin*  land  was  much  higher,  the  brush  gol  thicker  all 
the  time,  and  the  timber  line  was  struck  about  I!  or  7  miles  from  the 
Yukon.  We  crossed  several  large  rivers,  which  the  guide  informed 
ns  had  no  connection  with  the  Yukon  and  (lowed  into  the  sea  inde- 
pendently, and  shortly  before  that  stream  was  reached  we  followed  a 
small  branch  of  one  of  the  large  rivers  nearly  to  its  source. 

Reaching  the  Yukon  opposite  the  site  of  the  old  deserted  Russian 
village  of  Andreafski,  we  crossed  over  and  followed  along  the  north- 
ern shore  for  about  S  miles,  and  finally  drew  up  at  the  new  village. 
This  is  one  of  the  trading  posts  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company, 
and  is  sil  uatetl  on  the  banks  of  a  small  branch  of  the  Yukon.  7  miles 
from  the  main  river.  Opposite  the  post  is  a  pocket  or  slue  which 
is  so  formed  thai  the  river  ice  can  not  back  up  into  it  when  the 
siiring  break-up  comes,  and  on  this  account  has  for  years  been  used 
as  a  place  to  lay  up  the  river  boats  during  the  winter  season.  I.asi 
fall  the  ice  overtook  the  steamers  at  different  points  on  the  river 
before  they  were  able  to  reach  their  winter  rendezvous,  and  at  this 
time  there  were  at  the  post  only  the  people  connected  with  it  and  a 
few  of  1  he  si  earner  folks  who  had  come  to  spend  Christinas. 

Before  the  Ihur  left  Seattle  the  postmaster  had  senl  on  board  a 
Large  sack  of  mail  destined  for  the  Yukon  River,  with  the  requesl  thai 
il  be  delivered  at  St.  Michael  in  case  the  expedition  reached  thai 
point;  and  though  it--  weight.  7< '  pounds,  was  a  great  drawback,  it 
was  brought  along.  As  some  of  t  he  mail  was  for  the  people  al  Andre- 
afski, and  taking  il  through  to  St.  .Michael  might  prevent  their  get- 
ting il  until  the  river  opened  for  navigation  in  tin1  spring,  I  assumed 
the    responsibility  of  opening  the   mail    sack  and    delivering    to    the 


4o 


CKl'ISE    OF     1'HK     t'.   s.    HEVENl'K    Cl'TTEH    BEAR. 


proper  persons  i  lie  letters  directed  in  i  In- in  :  and  on  the  way  do \\  i  the 
Yukon.  I  pursued  the  same  course,  delivering  to  the  people  on  the  dif- 
ferenl  steamers  whatever  letters  wviv  addressed  to  them.  The  next 
dry  being  Christinas,  the  temptation  to  remain  over  and  resl  was 
great:  bill  our  mission  would  admit  of  no  unnecessary  delay,  and 
after  replenishing  our  stock  of  provisions  from  the  stores  at  the  posl 
we  started  on  our  way  down  t  he  river,  the  thermometer  4  below  zero 
and  the  wind  fresh  from  the  northwest. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  wind  increased,  and  about  noon,  when  we 
reaehed  a  bend  in  the  river  thai  brought  our  course  directly  in  the 
teeth  of  the  gale,  the  dogs  were  unable  to  face  ii  and  we  were  com- 
pelled lo  camp  and  wail   for  better  weather. 

Sniiihii/,  I )('/■( nilit /■  i'l. — The  wind  having  gone  down  enough  lo 
make  traveling  possible,  we  resinned  our  journey,  the  thernioinetei 
<i  below.  We  followed  1  he  course  of  the  Yukon,  keeping  close  to  t  lie 
northern  bank,  and  as  the  ice  was  hard  and  level,  made  excellent 
progress,  meeting  and  passing  several  parties  of  miners  going  up  and 
down  the  river,  and  in  the  afternoon  readied  a  small  log  hut  thai  had 
been  pui  up  for  the  convenience  of  passing  travelers,  and  camped  for 
the  night. 

Mninhiij.  I )en  uthi  r  i ', . — This  was  an  ideal  day  for  traveling,  the 
thermometer  being  la  below,  with  little  or  no  wind,  and  the  road 
generally  hard  and  smooth.  In  the  fall,  when  there  are  southerly  and 
soul hwesi  gales  in  the  15e ring  Sea.  the  water  rises  and  overflows  t lie  ice 
along  the  banks  of  the  lower  river,  and.  as  ii  quickly  freezes  in  the  low 
temperature,  one  often  strikes  a  trail  of  smooth,  dear  ice  for  miles. 
At  such  times  everybody  would  jump  on  the  sleds  and  the  dous  bowl 
along  a  1  a  gallop  and  keep  ii  up  as  long  as  such  clear  ice  lasted.  Sonic- 
limes  when  the  water  had  overflown  the  ice  it   would  again  fall  before 

then n    lop  was  more  1  ha  n  an   inch  ihick,  leaving  this  thin    layer  a 

foot  or  so  above  the  old  solid  ice  of  the  river.  There  is  nothing  to  dis- 
tinguish this  thin  shell  from  the  more  solid  of  the  new  ice,  and  ofleii 
when  the  dogs  were  speeding  along  over  the  smooth  surface  the  sled 
would  strike  one  of  these  places  and  suddenly,  with  no  warning,  the 
whole  outfit,  dous.  sleds,  and  men.  would  go  through  and  bring  up  on 
the  solid  ice  below.  Then  we  would  have  to  go  ahead  and  break 
through  the  shell  so  the  dogs  could  follow  until  the  firm  ice  was 
reached  again. 

After  a  long  day's  journey  we  came  to  a  small  slough  of  the  river 
when-  three  steamers,  having  on  board  a  large  number  of  miners 
bound  io  the  gold  diggings  in  the  I'pper  Yukon,  had  been  frozen  in 
iate  in  the  fall.  Some  of  the  men  were  living  on  board,  while  others 
occupied  lou-  Inns  they  had  built  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  15 y  this 
time  some  of  our  dous  were  in  rather  bad  shape.  The  thin  crust  on 
the  snow  coming  across  the  delta  country  and  the  hard  ice  on  the 
river  had  lacerated  ihe  cushions  of  their  feet,  and  nianv  of  them  left 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


41 


a  trail  of  blood  behind  them  with  every  step.  Besides  this,  tie*  two 
natives  who  had  accompanied  us  thus  far  had  developed  heavy  colds, 
which  settled  on  their  chests,  rendered  them  of  little  use  in  traveling. 
We  spent  the  night  on  the  steamer  Alicr,  of  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company,  and  the  next  day,  having  obtained  a  new  guide  and  some 
fresh  dogs,  resumed  our  journey,  leaving  behind  the  worst  of  our 
old  dogs  and  the  two  sick  natives,  the  purser  of  the  steamer  having 
kindly  agreed  to  care  for  them  until  they  were  able  to  return  to  their 
village. 

The  thermometer  was  still  15  below,  but  the  wind  had  freshened 
from  the  northward,  and  it  was  bitterly  cold  when  we  were  obliged  to 
face  it.  Following  the  course  of  the  river  as  usual,  late  in  the  even- 
ing we  came  to  a  log  house  occupied  by  a  1  rader  and  Ins  family,  built 
upon  ihe  site  of  the  old  and  deserted  village  of  Kotlik,  on  the  Aproon 
mouth  of  the  Yukon,  and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  seacoast.  We 
must  have  made  nearly  50  miles  this  day,  for  the  ice  was  good  and 
smooth,  and  our  fresh  native  runners  spurred  the  tired  dogs  up  to  a 
fast  rate. 

\\'i  il in  sihi ij,  December  ~'->. — The  weather  was  clear  and  the  mercury 
had  risen  to  zero  when  we  left  Kotlik  and  stalled  down  the  last  part 
of  the  liver.  We  soon  came  to  the  coast  and  then  struck  across  the 
ice  to  Cape  Romanoff,  reaching  there  about  o  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 
The  cape  seemed  to  us  about  H»  or  12  miles  farther  to  the  north  than 
shown  on  the  chart,  for  at  our  rate  of  travel  we  must  have  made  30 
miles  before  reaching  it,  while  the  chart  shows  barely  20.  Offshore 
we  could  see  the  open  water,  and  we  were  compelled  to  pick  our  way 
very  carefully  over  the  ice  crush  around  this  bold  headland  before  we 
could  st  like  across  the  tundra  for  Pikmiktallik,  a  native  village  near 
the  mouth  of  a  small  river  bearing  the  same  name,  and  about  9  miles 
farther  on.  A  thick  and  violent  snowstorm  came  up  soon  after  leaving 
Romanoff,  and  so  blinded  the  guide  t  hat  he  lost  the  way  frequently,  and 
it  was  long  after  dark  before  we  came  to  the  village,  where  we  were 
glad  to  accept  t  he  offered  shelter  of  the  huts  for  the  rest  of  the  night. 

Tim rsihi //,  I ')('a ■;i'h> •■/•  ■!<>. — The  wind  had  fallen  to  a  calm  and  the 
mercury  having  gone  up  almost  to  the  freezing  point,  the  weather 
seemed  very  warm  and  traveling  was  very  disagreeable.  Kven  the 
dogs  were  affected  by  the  rise  in  temperature,  and.  though  we  made 
an  early  start  from  Pikmiktallik.  and  1  he  distance  to  St.  Michael  was 
but  25  miles,  they  went  so  slowly  that  we  did  not  reach  the  latter 
place  until  the  middle  of  the  afternoon. 

We  had  now  completed  the  first  stage  of  our  journey,  and  our  expe- 
rience with  dogs  had  shown  us  we  could  expect,  with  good  roads  and 
fair  weather,  to  average  from  20  to  2-T>  miles  a  day.  But  this  was 
not  to  be  accomplished  as  usually  pictured,  sitting  back  on  the  sled 
and  cracking  a  whip.  In  Alaska,  at  least,  it  is  not  that  way.  and 
unless  the  road  is  verv  smooth  and  the  load  light,  the  men  of  an  out- 


42 


Ckl'i.SK    i)l'    'III 


i;f.\  r.M'i:  t  ltj  ek  beak. 


til  must  mil  niily  walk.  Inn  push,  ami  haul,  ami  somet  imes  harness 
themselves  up  in  llii'  sleds  to  yet  atony.  Al  firsi  such  work  seems 
killiiiLi.  Inn  ynii  yd  used  in  ii  like  anvthiny  else  ami  lake  ii  as  a 
mat  i  it  i  if  <•(  in  rse. 

I'puli  arriviny  I  lirst  report  eil  to  Lieut.  Col.  Ceorye  M .  Randall. 
I'.  S.  A..  !••  mi  ma  ml  mil:  the  mililan  |>ost.  I  detailed  to  him  the 
object  am!  purport'  of  the  expedition,  and  received  a  warm  wel- 
come and  every  assistance  in  Ids  power.  A  larye  nuinlier  of  peo- 
ple destined  for  the  Yukon  yold  fields  had  been  eoinpelled  lii  winter 
here  on  aecount  of  the  e\l  remelv  low  water  in  the  river  the  previous 
summer.  To  these  we  were  an  object  of  yreal  interest  ami  curiositv. 
Inn  their  yood  intentions  of  assistance.  I  am  sorry  to  say,  were  more 
hind  ra  nee  i  ha  u  help. 

The  mail  bronchi  from  Seattle  was  iinally  delivered,  and  nothing 
could  have  been  more  welcome  to  this  imprisoned  and  idle  crowd. 
The  winter  thus  far  was  reported  very  mild,  and  on  thai  account  our 
road  lo  Colovin  Ray  was  in  a  had  state  for  travel.  The  ice  had  nol 
yet  formed  strong  enoiiyh  lo  keep  a  firm  hold  on  the  shores,  and  Mew 
out  with  every  easier!  v  wind,  and  t  he  hiyh  winds  had  driven  the  snow 
from  the  tundra,  leaviny  ii  nearly  bare  in  many  place-..  \  ii'ader 
had  just  come  in  from  Colovin  Hay.  and  had  been  nineteen  days  mi 
the  road.  Ii  was  necessary  thai  careful  and  complete  [(reparations 
be  made  before  leaving  St.  Michael,  for.  as  far  as  we  knew,  this  was 
the  lasl  base  of  supplies  we  could  depend  upon  for  food  or  transpor- 
tation a^  far  north  as  I'oint  Hope.  The  doys  which  had  brmiyht 
us  thus  far  had  made  with  us  a  trip  of  :>7u  miles,  and  were  com- 
pletely worn  oiil.  They  had  been  yoiny  constantly  for  twenty-one 
days  with  only  one  day's  rest,  and  the  hard.  roiiyh  ice  of  the  Yukon 
River  and   1  he  crusty  snow  had  worn  t  heir  feet   hare.      Not  hiny  short 

of    a    week's     rest     alld     Li' i      feed  illy'    Would     put     llielll     ill     condition     to 

L'n  mi.  I  was  loath  to  pari  with  them,  for  they  were  ihe  best  doys 
1  saw  in  Alaska,  but  I  could  not  wail  for  them  to  recuperale.  The 
ureal  influx  of  while  people  into  the  Yukon  country  had  made  such  a 
demand  for  doys  thai  ii  was  uexi  to  impossible  to  procure  any  here. 
( >nl  v  t  he  urgency  of'  our  mission  i  i id  need  the  aye ni  of  1  he  Alaska  Com- 
mercial Company  to  lei  us  have  t  he  slat  ion  team  as  far  as  I'nalak  li  k. 
The  a  ye  ni  of  the  North  American  Trading  ami  Transportation  Com- 
pany promised  us  his  station's  team  from  thai  place  on,  but  first  ii 
had  a  load  lo  deliver  there  for  the  company.  Mr.  Knylestadl .  trader 
for  1  he  Alaska  Commercial  Company  al  Cnalaklik,  was  al  St.  Michael 
with  a  loaded  team  to  return  to  his  station,  and  I  enyayed  from  him 
such  assistance  as  he  could  yive  us.  The  reindeer  herd  from  the 
Teller  Reindeer  Stal  ion  al  I 'oil  Clarence  was  supposed  to  be  mi  its 
way  from  thai  place  to  St.  .Michael  to  report  to  (  olmie]  Randall  for 
Use  i  ii  re|ie\  mil:'  1  lie  people  on  the  I'pper  Y  Ilk  oil.  a  ml   could    nol    be  used 

bv  our  expedition.      The  difficulties  oi'   yet t inn'   almiy   in   this   reyion 


CRUISE  OF  THE  P.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAU. 


43 


were  so  great,  however,  thai  I  obtained  from  Colonel  Randall  an 
order  to  Dr.  A.  X.  Ivottleson,  superintendent  of  the  reindeer  herd,  for 
such  assistance  as  he  could  give  the  expedition  as  far  as  (ape  Prince 
of  Wales,  whore  wo  would  have  our  own  reindeer  and  he  independent. 
The  services  of  F.  Koltehoff  were  of  no  further  use  to  the  expedition, 
and  orders  were  left  for  Lieutenant  Bertholf,  directing  Koltehoff  to 
report  to  Lieutenant-Colonel  Randall  for  duty  with  the  reindeer  herd 
upon  its  arrival  at  Pnulaklik.  as  directed  by  Department  order  of 
November  C>.  1S(.»7. 

It  was  necessary  here  to  relit  ourselves  with  deerskin  clothing.  The 
dogskin  and  woolen  clothing  we  brought  from  the  vessel  was  heavy  and 
cumbersome  and  not  suited  to  the  cold  weal  her  we  were  to  encounter. 
The  sleeping  bags  we  had  were  made  of  goatskin,  with  canvas  and 
rubber  covers,  and  were  too  heavy  to  haul  and- loo  cold  for  com- 
fort or  safety.  Fortunately,  we  had  been  favored  thus  far  with  mild 
weather,  but  every  day's  use  of  such  clothing  was  dangerous.  Deer- 
skin clothing,  boots,  socks,  and  sleeping  bags,  were  an  absolute  neces- 
sity. These  were  rare  and  commanded  extravagant  prices,  and  we 
were  fortunate  in  being  able  to  supply  ourselves  from  Mr.  Knglestadt, 
who  had  about  1  he  only  deerskins  in  this  part  of  the  count  rv.  Another 
point  to  be  considered  here,  was  to  supply  our  party  with  provisions 
to  last  from  here  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  and  as  far  as  Point  Barrow. 
It  was  impossible  to  load  the  sleds  with  more  than  two  or  three  hun- 
dred pounds  and  travel  with  the  speed  we  should.  Mr.  Lopp,  a1  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  could  have  but  a  limited  supply,  probably  only 
enough  for  himself  and  family.  A  large  party  was  necessary  to  care 
for  and  drive  the  deer  herd,  and  even  in  the  time  we  hoped  to  reach 
Poinl  Barrow,  they  would,  for  two  months,  be  wholly  dependent  upon 
themselves.      With  accidents  or  delays,  they  might   be  until  summer. 

To  make  the  party  wholly  independent  of  all  villages  to  the  north, 
and  capable  of  sustaining  itself,  whatever  route  it  was  compelled  to 
take,  I  ordered  a  supply  of  provisions  to  be  taken  across  the  divide 
from  the  head  of  Norton  Bay  to  Kotzebue  Sound  to  meet  us  at  Cape 
Blossom  on  our  arrival  there,  depending  upon  Port  Clarence  and  Cape 
Prince  o|  Wales  for  enough  to  take  us  that  far.  This  provision  train 
could  be  fitted  out  at  Cnalaklik.  and  I  directed  Lieutenant  Bertholf 
to  come  to  that  place  on  his  arrival.  If  he  made  the  connections  we 
planned  he  was  no1  due  at  St.  Michael  until  January  1.  but  it  was 
most  important  that  I  should  get  to  Capo  Prince  of  Wales  as  soon  as 
possible,  and  I  did  not  dare  wait  nor  delay  for  him.  Leaving  orders 
for  him  to  come  on  to  Cnalaklik  when  he  arrived,  and  there  meet 
Mr.  Knglestadt,  with  whom  1  made  arrangements  to  tit  out  the  pro- 
vision train,  we  proceeded  on  January  1.  IK'.iS.  Striking  across  the 
bay  to  the  mainland,  we  were  soon  compelled  to  take  to  the  tundra, 
as  the  easterly  winds  had  blown  the  ice  away  from  the  shores  of  the 
sound  and   left  open  water. 


44 


CKITSE    ()!•'    THE    V.   S.   REVENEE    CUTTEK     HEAR. 


Tin'   weather  (-«»iii  i  11  tiff  1    very  warm,  ami  our   road    was  trying  and 

difficult.  Tin'  wind  had  cleaned  the  snow  from  the  plains,  and  made 
progress  itne  conl  in  nal.  hard,  i^rindiiiii1  pull,  and  we  were  fori  unale  to 
reach  t  he  village  of  Kikiktaruk  at  dark,  though  only  IS  miles  distant 
I'i'imii  St.  Michael.  The  next  day  was  no  better,  and.  though  we  had 
hoped  !c  lieal  I'nalaklik  in  two  days,  it  was  sunn  evidenl  thai  we 
must  lie  satisfied  with  what  progress  we  could  make  under  tlie  condi- 
tions. We  shoved  and  pushed  over  bowlders  ami  almost  bare,  grassy 
mounds,  and  up  and  down  sleep  ii'iil lies  and  cli  ll's,  and  when  darkness 
overlook  lis.  17>  miles  was  all  we  had  accomplished.  On  the  -'Id.  cum- 
in e;  down  on  the  ice  which  held  in  some  of  1  he  small  bays,  we  observed 
a  native  woman  on  snowshoes  u'oinii'  south.  I'pon  cominii  np  wilh 
her,  I  recognized  her  as  a  nal  i  ve  whom  I  had  known  at  1'oint  Hope  in 
the  Ai'etie.  and.  upon  questioning;  her  as  1o  why  she  was  in  this 
region.  I  learned  that  she  and  her  husband  were  with  a  white  man 
named  Tilton.  coming  from  I'oiut  Harrow  with  mail  and  seeking 
assistance  for  the  people  there.  Tilton  was  ahead  with  the  sleds  and 
had  gone  close  under  the  bluff,  so  that  we  had  passed  within  a  few 
hundred  feel  without  knowing  of  one  another's  presence.  We  soon 
brought  Mr.  Tilton  to,  and  found  he  was  the  third  mate  of  the  steam 
whaler  l\<]  r<  <U,-<-.  lie  had  left  I'oinl  I  {arrow  October  17.  and  his 
ship,  which  was  frozen  in  at  the  Sea  Horse  Islands,  on  the  i'ls1.  Me 
had  had  a  hard,  long  journey,  and  bol  h  he  and  his  lea ms  were  all  but 
played  out.  It  was  fortunate  he  was  now  in  reach  of  people  and 
supplies. 

What  official  mail  lie  brought  I  opened  for  any  information  it  might 
conl  ai  n  thai  would  help  me  to  u  ndersl  and  the  condit  ion  of  things  a1 
I'oinl  Harrow,  and  enable  me  to  prepare  for  it.  From  all  I  could 
gather  from  the  mail  and  from  Mr.  Tilton  himself.  I  learned  thai  the 
steamer--  ()rni,  Jissi  If.  F  <i  i  u/n  n ,  and  Ih-h'ohri  had  pollen  past 
I'oinl  Harrow  and  down  the  con  si  as  far  as  1  he  Sea  Horse  Islands.  At 
this  point  September  i'i'.  the  ice  closing  in.  the  Orm  was  crushed  ami 
the  l'"ri  i  inn  n  caughl  and  abandoned,  bol  h  crews  going  on  board  the 
lli  J  n  ili  ri .  which  was  worked  in  behind  I'oinl  franklin  and  put  into 
winter  quarters  there.  The  crews  of  the  two  wrecked  vessels  were 
sent  to  I'oinl  Harrow  and  qunrlered  at  thai  place.  The  Uosiirm  was 
close  to  I'oinl  Harrow  mi  tliewesl  side:  the  X<  u-jhh  7.  F<  nrh  ss.  ami 
./iiiiu'i  a  long  I  he  shore  ai  various  distances  easl  of  I'oinl  Harrow  and 
wit  hin  reach  i  if  I  hal    place. 

The  W'n,,,!,  n  r  had  last  been  seen  tin  miles  west  of  llcrschcl  Island, 
early  in  Sepicmber.  Xolhing  had  been  heard  from  her  as  laic  a^ 
October  17.  and  il  was  supposed  thai  she  was  within  communication 
ofIIei>chel  Island,  where  1  he  steamer  Mn>-i/  I),  //nun  was  wintering 
with  two  yea  rs'  sil  ppl  ies  oil   boa  rd  . 

The  wreck  of  the  sleamer  Xnrnrch  was  drilling  aboiil  in  the  ice 
east  of  I'oinl  Harrow,  and  Mr.  Tilton  t houghl  that  7  of  i  he  :i  men  who 
remained  on   her  lasl   summer  had   been  u'olleli  out   safelv. 


CRUISE    OF    T1IK    l\   S.  REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAR. 


I  hail  anticipated  meeting  in  this  region  sonic  one  from  Point  Har- 
row, and  almost  my  first  question  on  arriving  at  St.  .Michael  was 
whether  or  not  they  had  heard  from  the  imprisoned  vessels.  The 
information  Tilton  bronchi  hardly  altered  the  situation  a1  Point  Har- 
row, as  it  was  understood  before  the  Heir  sailed,  excepl  thai  the  loss 
of  the  Oral  and  Fn* man  with  their  provisions  made  it   worse. 

At  Cnalaklik  the  last  arrangements  were  ma<le  about  the  provisions 
to  go  to  Ivotzebne  Sound,  and  orders  were  left  for  Lieut  eiianl  IJert- 
holf  to  lake  charge  of  the  train,  and  go  across  what  is  known  as  the 
portage  to  Cape  Blossom  and  wait  my  arrival  or  the  arrival  of  the 
reindeer  herd  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.  I  was  disappointed  in 
getting  the  teams  Mr.  Englestadl  had  promised,  for  one  was  all  he 
could  give  us,  and  though  I  had  agreed  to  take  the  Alaska  Commer- 
cial Company's  team  no  farther.  I  was  obliged  to  keep  it  and  also  the 
North  American  Trailing  and  Transportation  Company's  team,  as 
there  was  nothing  else  to  do  if  we  were  to  gel  along. 

We  secured  here  another  tenl  and  stove  (having  left  the  others 
for  Lieutenant  Hertholf),  proper  deerskin  sleeping  bags,  and  deer- 
skin socks,  boots,  and  mittens.  We  were  now  fairly  well  equipped 
to  stand  the  cold  weather,  though  even  yet  our  outfil  was  no1  what  it 
should  have  been.  We  left  Cnalaklik  on  the  .">th  with  three  light 
sleds,  and  the  first  day  took  us  over  the  hills  and  mountains  back  of 
the  coast,  for  there  was  still  no  ice  along  the  shores.  This  part  of 
the  country  was  timbered,  and  as  we  passed  along  the  old  trail  of  the 
telegraph  expedition  of  |si»o  we  saw  several  of  the  poles  they  erected 
then  still  standing.  The  limber  was  only  a  scattered  growth,  and 
consisted  mainly  of  spruce  and  scrubby  pine.  It  was  thickest  and 
largest  along  the  water  courses  and  in  the  valleys,  and  extended  but 
a  short  distance  up  the  sides  of  the  mountains. 

Kxeepl  for  soft  snow  and  climbing  the  mountains  the  trail  was  fair. 
We  passed  the  native  village  of  Kgawik  in  the  afternoon,  and  late  at 
night  camped  in  a  deep  gully  on  the  si  tore,  about  lo  miles  fart  her  on, 
where  we  hoped  to  pass  the  base  of  the  last  big  mountain  rat  her  than 
climb  over  it.  At  night  the  tide  was  too  high,  but  the  next  morning 
it  was  low.  and  after  a  hard  pull  of  several  miles  along  the  rocky 
beach  we  reached  the  level  land  beyond.  Here  was  good  traveling, 
and  we  made  a  long  day's  run  to  I'noktolik,  on  the  shores  of  Norton 
Hay.  Crossing  the  bay  the  nexl  day  the  ice  was  firm  and  smooth 
and  good  progress  was  made  until  Hearing  the  north  shore,  where 
rough  ice  and  deep  snow  began.  The  wind  had  not  only  crushed  up 
the  ice,  but  had  driven  the  snow  all  over  to  that  side  of  the  bay,  and 
it   was  a  hard  struggle  through  it  to  the  shore. 

On  the  8th.  passing  the  village  of  Kuik  in  the  morning,  we  were 
compelled  to  travel  with  snowshoes,  for  the  snow  was  growing  deeper 
all  the  time,  and  a  heavy  storm  setting  in  during  the  forenoon  made 
it    more   difficult     than    ever   to    fitrhl    our    wav    alonu'.      The    runners 


4<; 


cia'isE  or  tiik   r.  s.  keyenue  cctter   hear. 


would  sink  in  llie  body  t it"  i  in-  sled,  and  the  do<rs  lto  nearly  oul  of 
siirlil  in  their  si  niLi'ides  to  dra.u'  alon.u'.  It  took  four  men  to  tramp 
i  low  ii  a  1  rail  in  order  to  make  any  progress  a  1  all.  and  at  ni^lit .  though 
we  had  Imped  to  make  a  >mall  village  ahead,  we  were  compelled  to 
camp  in  the  woods  alon.u'  the  shore,  for  niirtlo^s  were  so  exhausted 
they  si  in  ply  laid  down  and  refused  to  lto  any  farther. 

The  next  day.  t  hou.n'h  (dear,  found  t  he  same  deep  snow  on  our  road, 
and  we  continued  packing  down  a  trail  and  dra.LT'LTiiiLT  the  sleds  aloiiLT. 
To  Li'ei  out  of  the  trail  ineani  to  lie  stalled  in  llie  drifts,  and  after  a 
Ioii.lt  day's  si  ru.u'Li'le  we  were  u'lad  to  have  made  1 ' '  miles. 

(>n  llie  hull,  though  the  --now  was  deep,  it  improved  as  we  went 
aloiiLT.  ami  that  n  i-ht  we  were  surprised  and  pleased  lo  liml  t  he  camp 
of  the  ( iovi'i'ii  nn'iii  reimleer  herd  at  the  fool  of  the  mountain  leading 
over  to  ( iolovin  [Jay.  They  had  started  from  Port  Clarence  Decem- 
ber Pi.  and  had  been  stopped  hero  by  the  deep  snow  we  had  jiist 
passed  over.  I  delivered  to  Dr.  Kettleson  the  order  from  Colonel 
Randall,  and  made  arrangements  with  him  for  us  to  lto  over  to 
dolovin  [Jay  the  following  day.  and  arrange  for  leaving  there  on  the 
li'th.  when  the  doer  teams  would  arrive  to  take  us  to  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales. 

The  weather  now  litcw  cooler,  and.  exeepi  for  a  few  days,  the  ther- 
mometer remained  below  zero  until  near  the  middle  of  the  following 
May.  We  wenl  over  the  mountain  and  arrived  at  Colovin  [Jay  on 
the  1  lth.  <  Mi  t  lie  east  side  of  this  mountain  was  a  Lfood  heavy  lti  ow  t  h 
of  timber,  but  the  wesl  side  was  entirely  bare.  At  this  place  were 
the  houses  •  if  the  Swedish  mission  and  a  I  rader  named  John  A.  Dexter. 
surrounded  by  a  small  village  of  natives.  [hue  I  dismissed  the  doii' 
teams.  seiidin.u  two  back  to  St.  Michael  and  one  to  1'nalaklik.  and 
directing  them  to  take  back  to  the  latter  pi, ice  some  of  the  people  of 
the  reindeer  camp  who  were  now   a  burden  to  1  he  herd. 

Having  i>urclothes  repaired  and  our  stock  of  provisions  replenished 
from  the  store  here,  we  were  ready  on  the  Il.M1i  to  start  when  the 
i\>-f\-  teams  arrived.  Wishing  to  make  a  vish  to  Port  Clarence,  Dr. 
Kettleson  came  himself,  brinu'inii'  four  sleds  and  two  •'poulkas'" 
(Lapland  frei.LT'hl  sleds,  shaped  like  a  boat  i.  and  one  of  Mr.  Lopp's 
herders  who  was  with  t  he  Cove  rn  men  1  herd  for  experience,  ami  whom 
I  eh-aueil  lo  lto  alon.u'  with  us  to  Point  I  Jar  row.  ( )ur  provisions  were 
packed  "ii  the  poulkas,  while  each  man's  personal  outfit  was  packed 
on  the  >led  lie  was  tn  use.  I  found  this  an  excellent  arrangement  in 
case  on e  yol   lost    from  t  he  rest  of  1  he  party,  as  I  did  later  in  a  blizzard. 

All  our  travel  heretofore  had  been  by  do  it  teams,  and.  as  we  were 
to  ha\  e  much  deer  t  raveling  fart  her  on.  I  was  very  anxious  lo  t  ry  the 
change  and  note  t  he  difference,  wishing  for  anyt  hi ii.lt  t  hat  would  hurry 
Us  a  Ion  lt.  Then-  , -a  me  with  Dr.  Kel  t  lesoii.  to  inanaLTe  our  1  rain,  Mik- 
kel.  i  Laplander,  who  u  as  count e< I  a  I  horoun lily  experienced  and  eapa- 
iile  man.  and   I   found    him    all    that.      A  stolid,  determined    character. 


,..— — -• 


CKUISK    OF    THE    U.  S.  REVEXl'E    CtJTTEK     BEAR. 


47 


and  possessed  of  a  wonderful  pal  ience.  lie  look  tin*  lead  wit  It  two 
deer  harnessed  to  his  sled,  while  we  had  1ml  our.  All  hands  must  he 
ready  at  the  same  time  when  start  ing  a  deer  t  rain,  for.  just  as  soon  as 

the  animals  see  the  head  team  start .  t  hey  arc  all  off  with  a  .jump,  and 
for  a  short  time  keep  up  a  very  high  rale  of  speed.  If  our  is  not 
(puck  in  jumping  and  holding  on  to  his  sled,  he  is  likely  either  to  lose 
his  team  or  he  dragged  along  in  the  snow.  They  soon  come  down  to 
a  moderate  nail,  however,  and  finally  drop  into  a  walk  when  tired. 
They  are  harnessed  with  a  well-lit  1  ing  collar  of  two  Hal  pieces  of  wood 
from  which  a  short  trace  noes  hack  on  each  side  to  the  ends  of  a 
breast  piece,  or  a  swinglelree.  that  fits  under  the  body.  From  the 
eenter  of  this  a  single  trace  runs  back  to  the  sled,  either  between  or 
to  one  side  of  the  hind  legs.  In  the  wake  of  the  legs  this  trace  is 
protected  with  some  soft  fin',  or  the  skin  will  soon  be  worn  through 
with  the  constant  chafing.  (Tenerally  there  is  a  single  line  made 
fast  to  the  left  side  of  a  halter,  and  with  this  the  animal  is  guided 
and  held  in  check;  but  this  line  must  be  kept  slack  and  only  pulled 
on  when  the  deer  is  to  be  guided  or  slopped.  By  pulling  hard  on 
this  line  the  weight  of  the  sled  comes  on  the  head,  and  the  animal 
is  soon  broughl  to  a  standstill,  though  often  this  is  only  accomplished 
after  he  has  gone  around  in  a  circle  several  times,  and  you  ami  the 
sled  are  in  a  general  mix  up.  Sometimes  two  guiding  lines  are  used 
in  the  same  manner  as  driving  horses,  except  that  they  are  both 
made  fast  to  the  halter  near  the  horns.  Xo  whip  is  used,  and  none 
should  be,  for  the  i\i>^v  are  very  timid  and  easily  frightened,  and 
once  got  ten  in  thai  stale  they  are  hard  to  quiet  and  control.  A  little 
I  uggingon  1  he  lines  will  generally  si  art  them  off,  even  when  1  hey  balk. 
The  sleds  in  use  are  low  and  wide,  with  very  broad  runners.  Having 
a  very  low  rail  or  none  at  all.  it  is  hard  to  pack  and  secure  anything 
on  them  so  ii  will  stay  and  be  protected  from  the  snow  and  the  rough 
usage.  It  struck  me  thai  a  great  improvement  in  this  respect  was 
needed  if  they  are  to  come  into  general  use. 

After  many  preparat  ions  we  gol  off  a  little  after  noon.  I  had  learned 
by  this  time  thai  it  is  harder  to  start  from  a  station  where  you  have 
to  lit  out.  than  from  a  camp,  and  despite  all  our  precautions  and  prep- 
arations, there  seemed  1o  be  endless  things  left  undone  until  the  last 
minute,  so  I  almost  wished  t  here  were  no  white  people  any  where  on 
our  road.  After  starling  we  had  a  good  smooth  trail  up  Uolovin 
Sound  :  the  deer  were  fresh  and  kept  up  a  gallop  mil  il  we  came  to  the 
mountains  hack  of  Stony  ('ape.  This  was  a  steep,  hard  climb  and  a 
very  precipitate  descent,  which,  however,  was  accomplished  without 
much  trouble,  though  going  down  hill  is  often  a  dangerous  operation. 
Arriving  at  the  base  of  these  mountains,  il  was  but  a  short  distance 
to  the  village  of  Seookuk,  where  we  spent  the  night.  Kskimo  dogs 
seem  i  i  at  ura  1  enemies  to  1  he  deer,  and  as  il  was  dangerous  to  go  close 
to  a  village  on    thai    account,  the   sleds  were   halted   a   short    distance 


4s 


CKL'ISE    OF    THE     l".   S.    REVENUE    CUTTER     HEAR. 


away.  1  he  deer  unharnessed  ami  taken  by  Mikkel  several  miles  away, 
(tul  of  the  siyhl  and  scenl  of  thedoys:  there  they  were  tethered  by 
nyy'li  1 1  u'  l  lie  a  i  with  lun  ^  li  ne-,  ;  1 1  i  he  i  hick  ci'iisl  of  t  he  snow.  leaviny 
he  animals  ran  ye  enough  tu  feeil  during  the  niyhl.  We  now  hauled 
he  sleds  lu  the  village,  they  were  unloaded,  and  we  were  ylad  to  yet 
he  shelter  of  even  ,i  nat  ive  hut .  for  1  he  day  had  been  cold  and  riding 
hi  a  deer  sled  i>  much  colder  work  than  t  ravel  iny  alongside  and  push- 
ny  behind  a  i h »y  t cam. 

In  a  few  of  the  valleys  of  liolovin  Sound  was  a  sparse  growth  of 
ri'cv.  but.  excepi  for  a  few.  visible  in  1  he  distance  in  the  Kot/.ebiie 
■Miiitid  region,  we  saw  no  more  trees  in  all  the  country  we  traveled 
"n mi  here  on  lu  Point   I Jam i\v. 

.In nun rn  /•/.  -It  was  still  very  cold  and  a  liyht  wind  was  blowing 
'rum  the  north  i  his  morn  iny.  *  >ur  cntirsi1  lay  straiyhl  alony  1  he  nort  h 
-hore  of  Norton  Sound,  and  we  tried  to  keep  on  the  ice  where  the 
raveliny  was  easier,  but  the  crashes  alony  thesliore  yrew  so  rouyh 
hat     we    were   compelled    to   take   to   the    hills    that     lined    the   coast. 

oniiny  down  the  last  one  of  these,  my  deer,  which,  as  I  afterwards 
earned,  once  had  a  lee,  broken  by  the  sled  runniny  ahead  on  him. 
lecanie  friyhlened  and  bolted  down  the  hill,  throwing  me  off  the 
-led.  I  held  on  to  the  line  and  was  draped  throue.li  the  snow  ayainst 
in  old  tish  rack  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill.  When  I  -aw  thai  lish  rack 
ooni  up.  I  1 1 1  < » u  l:  1 1 1  my  lime  had  come,  bul  my  bones  seemed  stronger 
han  Mm  rack,  for  throwiny  my  head  aside.  m\  shoulder  cauyhl  the 
ipriyht  ami  broke  it  short  off.  When  I  finally  stopped  t  he  deer  and 
uilled  myself  toyether.  I  was  yraleful  to  lind  1  had  no  hones  broken, 
or  mi  c)  i  a  t  hi  n.e.'  w  as  too  serious  a  mailer  even  \'<>v  contemplation. 

The  wind  had  now  increased  to  a  yah-,  and  the  blind  inc.  snow  made 
inciv-  slow  and  d  i  I'licii  It .  We  had  planned  to  reach  a  village  a  Ik  nil 
'>'<  mile-  distant,  bin  1 1 i li  1 1 1  overlook  u-  on  the  road.  It  seemed  to  be 
iiv  day  for  accidents,  for  -non  after  dark  my  deer  wandered  from  the 
rail,  became  enlaiiyied  in  a  lot  of  driftwood  on  the  beach,  half  covered 
vil  li  snow,  and  linalh  wound  up  by  run  nine;  t  he  sled  full  speeil  ayainsi 
t  si  u in 1 1.  breaking  1  he  harness,  drayyiny  the  line  out  of  my  hand,  and 
lisappoariny  in  the  darkness  and  flyiny  snow.  .My  first  impulse  was 
ii  run  afler  him.  1  nil  soon  recover  iny  my  wits  I  coiududei]  to  make  the 
icsl  of  i  he  -it  i  mi  i  "i  i.  It  v  as  i  in  |  miss  i  b|  e  to  see  lo  yards  ahead,  and  I 
xiiew  ii  would  be  reckless  to  stall  off  alone,  for  the  others  were  far  in 
idvaiice  by  this  lime,  and  I  niiyhl  wander  about  all  niyhl.  iiecoine  e\ 
lausled.  and  perhaps  freeze.  So  riyhl  in-  my  -led.  I  proceeded  in  camp 
■\  In-!-' •  I  u  a-  lor  t  he  niyhl .  and  await  developments.  I  had  Hot  hiiiy  lu 
■ai  i  m  the  -led.  Inn  fori  una  t  el  \  had  my  clot  lies  bay:  and  sleeping  bay. 
ind  yettiny  them  .nit  under  the  lee  of  the  sled.  I  proceeded  to  make 
u\  -elf  a-  com  furl  able  as  possible.  I  knew  I  he  ot  hers  would  be  search - 
ny  I'm'  me  as  -nun  as  they  noticed  my  absence,  yd  ii  seemed  impos- 
sible in  find  ;in\  t  hiny  in  t  hal  storm.      I  t  hoiiyhl   I  had  been  there  about 


! 

ik  AM             i 

J& 

rftt*'*^                 fi»,  ? 

CRUISE    OF    TIIK    U.   S.   REVEXEE    Ct'TTER    HEAR 


40 


an  hour,  when  I  heard  a  faint  shoul  :  ju  mping  up,  I  answered  as  well 
as  I  could  against  the  howling  wind,  and  soon  was  gratified  to  sec 
sonic  muffled  figures  groping  their  way  toward  me  in  the  darkness  and 
flying  snow.  They  were  Kettleson  and  Mikkol  leading  my  deer.  I 
was  glad  to  sec  them  and  know  that  this  little  episode  was  ended,  for 
by  the  next  in  on  dug.  with  the  cold  and  hunger,  I  mighl  have  been  in 
no  eondil  ion  to  help  myself. 

It  seemed  that  my  deer,  after  In-caking  away,  had  picked  up  the 
trail,  caught  up  with  the  others,  and  trotted  along  behind  their 
sleds.  Ill  the  darkness  the  drivers  could  not  tell  whet  her  there  was  a 
sled  behind  him  or  not,  and  only  discovered  my  absence  when  they 
had  occasion  to  stop  and  consult  with  me.  Seeing  1  was  gone,  they 
look  the  deer  and  turned  back  to  find  me,  following  carefully  and 
slowly  the  trail  the  sleds  had  made  in  the  snow,  all  the  time  keeping 
up  a  shouting.  They  had  a  good  laugh  at  my  expense,  but  I  think 
all  hands  were  very  glad  it  was  nothing  more  serious  than  a  laugh,  at 
least.  I  am  sure  I  was.  A  short  distance  from  where  I  was  lost  we  had 
passed  an  old  and  abandoned  hut  high  up  on  the  bank,  and  as  it  was 
now  late  we  decided  to  camp  there.  Shoveling  oul  the  snow,  we  made 
the  best  of  this  hole  in  the  ground  for  the  night. 

January  1.).- — The  blizzard  was  still  on  when  we  started  this  morn- 
ing and  grew  worse  as  we  went  along.  As  though  to  make  amends  foi 
his  performance  of  yesterday,  my  deer  kepi  up  alongside  .M  ikkel's  sled, 
and  we  t  wo  soon  were  far  ahead  of  the  others,  and  were  great  ly  relieved 
when  we  picked  up  the  village  of  Opiktillik,  at  least  the  deer  led  us 
there,  for  il  was  beyond  us  to  find  the  way  in  the  blinding  snow.  It 
was  now  blowing  so  hard  that  we  could  scarcely  stand.  In  an  hour 
the  ot  hers  came  along.  They  had  been  com  pellet  1  to  pick  1  heir  w  ay  on 
fool,  one  of  the  natives  going  ahead  on  his  hands  and  knees.  Il  was 
hard  to  think  of  losing  the  daw  for  we  had  made  only  aboul  o  miles, 
lint  there  was  no  help  tor  il.  it  was  impossible  to  go  on  in  that  wind, 
so  we  crowded  into  an  already  overfilled  native  hul  and  tried  to  wait 
pal  icnl  ly  for  1  he  storm  to  let  up. 

January  I-'. — The  gale  showed  no  signs  of  abatemenl  :  if  anything, 
i!  blew  harder  than  the  day  before,  and  we  concluded  not  to  start. 
In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Ilultberg,  the  Swedish  missionary  a1  Golovin 
Kay.  and  a  prospector  came  in  from  a  shorl  distance  in  the  mountains. 
They  were  bound  for  Golovin  Hay  Inn  dared  not  go  on.  and  had  paid 
for  their  trip  thus  far  thai  day  with  frozen  cheeks  and  noses. 

January  Vi.  — The  gale  still  continued,  and  by  this  time  our  patience 
was  nearly  worn  out.  This  was  the  firsl  time  we  were  compelled 
to  stop  on  account  of  the  weather,  and  il  was  hard  to  think  of  the 
time  we  were  losing  with  any  degree  of  composure,  but  the  natives 
and  the  whites  all  agreed  that  il  was  dangerous  to  venture  out,  and  I 
reluctantly  fell  into  line,  though  I  resolved  no  amount  of  wind  would 
keep  us  t  here  anol  her  da  v. 


5i 


CRl'ISK    OF    THE     I',   s.    REVENUE    (UTTEK     HEAR. 


.In  a /in  rij  1 ',  .  There  was  still  no  change  in  the  weather,  but  bun- 
dliiiu  up  as  well  as  possible,  and  taking  exl  ra  p  recant  ions  for  the  pro- 
lectioii  of  our  faces,  we  started  soon  alter  daylight .  fifteen  decrees 
below  \\  as  almosl  more  1 1  lan  one  could  stand  in  such  a  lili/./.a  nl.  I  tut  lime 
was  too  precious.  io  lo>c  any  more  of  it.  and  as  we  had  conic  into  the 
country  1"  travel,  I  felt  we  must  "-et  alonii'  somehow.  li  was  all  the 
deer  could  do  to  keep  piine;  ahead,  and  it  required  all  our  efforts  to 
keep  them  from  i  u  rni  n.ii'  tail  to  the  wind  and  u'oinu' oti1  to  sea.  As 
we  had  to  lie  very  careful,  our  progress  was  slow;  Io  lose  anyone  in 
such  a  storm  miu'lil  mean  serious  results.  We  had  to  make  the  nexl 
village  aliejid.  some  T>  miles  away,  for  it  was  out  of  the  <piest  ion  io 
pitch  the  tent  in  that  wind.  Tramping  alone,'  beside  the  sleds  and 
healinLi'  on rsel \ es  to  keep  warm,  there  were  times  when  we  anxiouslv 
looked  for  the  protecting  lee  of  the  mountains  near  ('ape  Nome.  In 
the  middle  of  the  day  we  could  see  the  sun.  a  red  hall  through  the 
driving  snow,  hut  everything  on  a  level  was  a  winding,  blinding 
sheet .  As  we  worked  on.  seeing'  not  hi  nu'.  bu  ffel  ed  a  bout  by  1  he  tierce 
u'Usls.  it  seemed  as  if  we  would  certainly  pa\  dearly  for  our  tenierily, 
and  even  Mikkel.  the  stolid  l.ap]»,  swore  that  nothing'  would  ever 
induce  him  to  start  out  in  such  a  blizzard  auain.  In  the  afternoon 
the  wind  suddenly  lulled,  and  we  found  ourselves  under  the  lee  ol 
(ape  Nome.  We  now  breathed  easier,  and  several  hours  later  made 
on  r  cam  p  at  I  lie  village  of  Kebet  hlu  k.  on  the  w  est  side  ol'  1  he  cape. 
It  was  quite  a  laree  village,  and  we  sn\  e\  idences  of  native  enere.y 
and  improvement,  in  the  comfortable  loe;  houses  building'.  It  had 
been  a  weary  (lay.  but  we  were  much  gratified  to  learn  from  the 
natives  that  we  had  e'otlen  out  of  the  region  of  1  he  storm  and  could 
now  -ii  alone'  under  the  protection  of  a  lee. 

.In Him rij  Is.  We  had  an  experience  this  iiioriiinii'  thai  taimht  us 
to  keep  away  from  villages  in  the  future  while  1  ravoli  iiu'  wit  h  deer. 
.lust  a--  we  were  ready  to  start,  the  native  doe,s  ran  out  and  attacked 
i air  teams,  and  only  after  a  hard  I'mht  were  we  able  to  drive  t  hem  off. 
The  l  e  in  pe  rat  ure  was  fa  11  in e;  all  1  he  t  i  me  and  now  registered  -  -'So  .and 
it  was  a  cold  (Jay's  journey.  We  hoped  to  roach  Art  isarlook's  house 
before  niii'hl.  but  by  '.'  p.  in.  were  -lad  to  pilch  our  lent  on  the  moun- 
tain side  and  let  Art  isarlook  ii'o  until  to-morrow.  I  hiring  Ihe  niuht 
I  awoke  to  find  one  foot  feelinv.  like  a  block  of  ice,  and  found  that  I 
had  w  irked  inloa  cramped  position  which  had  stopped  t  he  circiilal  ion 
and  the    rest    of   t  lie  ni^ht    I    spent    kicking   that    foot    to   keep   it    from 

free/.i  IIU. 

/  ■//   /•'.      I    had    looked    forward  to  l  his  day  so  Ion.-'  1  hal   now  it 

had    e.inie    I    almost    shrank    from    the   task    it    broiiLihi.      We    reached 

niook">   house  about    noon.       lie  and    his   wife    were  old    friends. 

and    I    knew     1    would    receive   a    hearty    welcome,    but    how     to    induce 

them    ;n  -i\e    up   'heir   deer   ;  1 1 1  <  1    convince    them    thai     the    <  io\  ei'll  llieilt 

et    i  rn  a  n  ni  ual   n  u  in  Iter  a  I   some  I'm  ure  t  i  inc.  was  quite  a  not  her 


:     -:~     :,  c  F  KE  MDEEr< 


J*j^  b    nEi 


CKL'ISE    OP    Till-:    U.  S.   REVEXCE    CC'ITER    UK  AH. 


)1 


mallei-.  These  deer  were  their  absolute  property.  The  Covernmenl 
had  only  a  few  weeks  before;  taken  from  Artisarlook  the  original 
number  il  had  loaned  to  him  because  of  his  good  sei'vice  and  charac- 
ter, and  had  lefi  him  the  increase,  which  were  now  his,  ami  "Charlie," 
as  we  calle(l  him.  had  come  to  a  real  izat  inn  of  his  weal  I  li  and  position. 
Hesides  this,  he  and  the  people  gathered  about  him.  were  depcndenl 
upon  1  he  herd  for  food  and  clothing". 

I  explained  to  him  carefully  and  particularly  \vhal  the  deer  were 
waul  ed  for:  that  1  had  no1  come  witli  [inwcr  or  force  to  lake  his  prop- 
erty from  him.  and  that  he  must  let  me  have  them  of  his  own  free  will 
and  trust  to  the  ( iovernnienl .  which  I  represented,  for  an  ample  and 
suitable  reward  and  return.  lie  and  his  wife,  Mary,  held  a  long  and 
solemn  con  suit  at  ion,  and  finally  explained  t  heir  posit  ion.  They  were 
sorry  for  the  white  men  at  Point  Harrow,  and  they  were  glad  to  be 
able  to  help  them;  they  would  lei  me  have  their  deer,  which  repre- 
sented 1  heir  all.  on  my  promise  of  ret  urn,  if  I  won  Id  be  direel  ly  respon- 
sible for  them.  They  said  as  1  was  the  man  taking  them  I  should  be 
directly  responsible  for  them.  I  readily  agreed  to  this,  for  I  fully 
appreciated  their  goodness  and  the  justice  of  their  posit  ion.  They 
were  poor  except  for  the  ^\r^r  herd,  which  was  all  they  had  to  depend 
upon.  There  had  grown  quite  a  village  aboid  them,  all  in  the  service  of 
t  he  lie i'd.  and  if  1 1 00k  1  he  deer  ami  "  Charlie  v  away,  these  people  were 
likely  to  starve  unless  some  arrangements  were  made  for  1  heir  living. 
I  was  com  [jelled  to  arrange  for  them  to  obtain  enough  food  to  last  until 
the  arrival  of  the  Bear  in  the  spring,  by  giving  .Mary  orders  on  the 
trader  at  (rolovin  Hay,  and  the  few  supplies  remaining  a1  the  reindeer 
station  a1  Porl  Clarence.  This  finally  disposed  of,  I  turned  my  atten- 
tion to  the  preparations  for  getting  the  herd  started.  There  were 
l-'js  deer  in  the  herd,  and  of  these  Charlie  owned  133,  the  other  0  being 
the  property  of  some  boys  whom  Charlie  employed  :  and  upon  consid- 
eration 1  concluded  lobiiythese  live  outright,  giving  in  value  about 
*lo  for  each  deer.  It  was  estimated  thai  in  the  spring  Charlie's  herd 
would  have  si  1  fawns  which  would  live,  and  this  increase  had  to  be 
taken  into  consideration,  and  repaid  in  making' a  settlement  with  him. 
I  engaged  Charlie  to  go  with  the  herd  to  Point  Harrow,  to  drive  and 
care  for  the  deer,  at  a  salary  of  *3<>  per  month,  with  the  understand- 
ing that  his  money  would  be  properly  invested  in  goods  which  would 
be  broughl  to  him  in  the  B'-'ir.  I  had  dreaded  this  interview  with 
Charlie  for  fear  he  might  refuse  my  proposition,  but  his  good  charac- 
ter can  have  no  better  exposition  than  that  he  was  willing  to  give  up 
his  property,  leave  his  family,  and  go  800  miles  from  home  to  help 
.white  men  in  distress,  under  a  simple  promise  thai  his  property  would 
be  ret  urned  to  him. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  house.  Charlie  was  out  on  the  ice  sealing, 
but  he  ami  his  brother  soon  returned,  dragging  a  seal  along  behind 
t  hem. 


oz 


■> 


CRI/ISE    OF    T1IK    IT.   s.   KEVENT'E    CCTTER    HEAR. 


Along  I  he  north  shore  of  ill-  sound  I  lie  solid  ice  made  oil'  from  a  to 

(i  miles,  hiii  beyond  1  lull  was  open  water,  and  ice  d rifled  aboul  b\ 
the  winds.  Kvery  day  in  good  weal  her  the  natives  go  on  1  to  1  his  open 
waler  and  watch  palienlly  for  hours  for  a  chance  shot  al  a  seal.  At 
this  season  the  blubber  is  so  thick  on  their  bodies  that  when  killed 
they  Moat,  and  are  easily  recovered  by  throwing  a  line,  with  a  hook  on 
the  end.  over  the  float  big  carcass  and  drawing  it  to  the  edge  of  the 
ice.  Toggling  a  line  into  the  head,  it  is  then  dragged  ashore  to  the 
village.  I  have  often  seen  it  stated  that  after  shooting  a  seal  ihe  men 
will  not  drag  it  in.  but  send  out  the  women  to  do  that  part  of  the 
work  -t  he  drudgery.  This  may  happen  in  some  places  and  in  some 
individual  eases  for  individual  reasons,  but  I  never  saw  a  1  i  me  when  a 
man  did  not  haul  in  his  own  seals,  unless  he  had  too  many,  and  then 
a  sled  would  be  sent  to  bring  them  in. 

There  was  still  much  work  ahead:  many  preparations  had  to  be 
made  for  moving  this  herd  to  ('ape  Prince  of  Wales  to  connect  with 
the  one  there:  and  yet  1  could  not  afford  to  remain  behind  to  attend 
to  it.  for  the  principal  delay  would  come  when  all  thedeer  were  finally 
united,  and  the  long  journey  to  Point  Harrow  to  be  prepared  for. 
Leaving  Surgeon  Call  1  o  make  1  he  pre  pa  rat  ions  and  come  on  wit  h  1  he 
herd  to  Cape.  1'rince  of  Wales  as  soon  as  possible.  1  left  ihe  next  da\ 
with  Ket  t  lesoii  and  M  ikkel,  for  Port  Clarence.  The  count  rv  was  now 
level  and  excellent  for  traveling,  but  our  deer  were  t  iring.  and  it  was 
well  into  the  nighl  before  we  made  •!•">  miles,  our  allotted  day's  trip. 
The  thermometer  registering  -In  .  we  were  not  \eiy  comforlable  in 
our  lent  without  a  lire,  and  long  before  morning  Mikkel  decided  it 
wa>  too  cold  to  sleep,  ami  turned  out  of  his  bag.  and  made  a  roaring 
lire  of  driftwood  on  the  beach,  of  which  there  is  great  abundance  all 
along  t  his  coast .  In  fact,  the  whole  north  shore  of  Norton  Sound  is 
lined  with  driftwood  that  comes  out  of  the  Yukon  in  the  spring,  and 
in  many  places  it   is  pi  lei  I  up  high  by  1  he  soul  he  rly  gales. 

,l<i nun rij  'I.  It  was  very  cold  silting  idly  on  a  Avw  sled,  and  it 
was  all  we  could  do  to  keep  some  part  of  the  body  from  freezing: 
many  1  imes  a  sharp  1  winge  or  prick  would  make  one's  head  turn  from 
the  wind  and  his  hand  go  up,  to  work  vigorously  to  rouse  the  feeble 
circulation  in  the  end  of  his  nose.  It  was  a  beautiful  day.  the  road 
was  good,  ami  we  had  but  I  •"»  miles  to  go.  so  we  were  nol  long  in  reach- 
ing the  shelter  of  the  Teller  reindeer  station  al  Port  Clarence,  then 
occupied  h\  the  I'ev.  T.  L.  IJrevig  and  wife,  Co\  ern  inenl  school- 
teachers. 

Tim  ( iu\  eminent  herd  had  lelt  this  vicinity  December  lu.  and  the 
si  at  ion  was  prac!  icalh  abandoned,  except  for  1  he  school.  1  hough  some 
"1  'In-  si;iliou"s  supplies  were  slid  left.  These  helped  us  ;i  great 
u  ihe  preparations  necessary  here  and  (ape  Prince  of  Wales, 
be  b  i  re  w  e  w  ere  li  a  a  1 1  \  on  l  1 1  e  a  re  t  i  ( •  s  i  ( 1  e  o  f  I!  e  r  i  1 1  "  Si  rail  s  a  nd  poinl  ed 
i ior i  h.       The  deer  l  hat    had    brought    Ms    from  Colo\  i n    Pa \    had  not  ice- 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.  S.   UEVEXFE    Cl'TTEH    HEAR. 


53 


ably  tired  toward  ihe  lasl  of  the  . journey,  and.  as  h  was  a  hard  road 
from  here  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.  Ketlleson  feared  they  inighl  give 
out  altoget  her  on  the  route;  so  1  hat  niglil  I  engaged  a  nat  ive  and  a  dog 
sled,  i lit ending  to  go  on  alone  t lie  nexl  inoriiin,u'.  In  the  morning  it  was 
blowing  a  blizzard,  with  the  t  herinonieler  -oS  .and  my  nat  ive  said  it 
was  impossible  for  him  to  get  dog's  enough  for  the  trip,  ami  he  won  M 
not  go.  I  suspected  he  was  afraid  of  the  storm,  and  after  my  expe- 
rience I  didn't  much  blame  him.  I  did  not  like  the  delay,  but  I  could 
mil  bribe  anyone  to  stall  with  me  thai  day.  all  having  some  excuse  or 
other,  so  I  was  compelled  to  similiter  my  disappoint  nieiil  and  make 
the  besl  of  it.  1  now  had  tiinelo  have  my  clot  lies  overhauled  and  put 
in  good  condition,  for  one's  clothing  is  subjected  to  hard  usage  in 
arctic  t  raved,  and  constant  attention  to  il  is  necessary.  All  the  little 
holes  inusl  lie  stopped  up.  and  when  one  has  the  time  to  allow  a 
native  woman  look  over  one's  outfit,  a  general  overhauling  is  an 
adjunct  of  safety.  I  was  also  able  to  obtain  here  the  extra  deer- 
skin clothing  t  hal  we  needed  so  badly,  extra  socks,  boots,  and  an  extra 
deerskin  artigge.  or  shirt.  Nothing  would  keep  one  warm  in  the 
weat  her  we  were  having  bu1  deerskins,  ami  we  were  fortunate  in  being 
able  to  obtain  what  we  needed,  for  the  miners  had  pretty  well  cleaned 
out  the  supply  in  all  other  parts  of  the  country. 

(  >n  start ing  out  I  had  determined  to  do  as  the  people  who  lived  in  the 
•ountry  did — to  dress,  travel,  and  live  as  they  did,  and.  if  necessary. 
to  eat  t he, same  food.  I  found  the  only  way  to  get  along  was  to  con- 
form as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  customs  of  those  who  already  had 
solved  many  of  the  problems  of  existence  in  their  arctic  climate.  In 
this  connection  it  has  seemed  to  me  thai  the  value  of  deerskin  cloth- 
ing has  not  always  been  known  or  fully  appreciated  in  arct  ic  explora- 
lion>.  The  Kskinio  of  arctic  Alaska  and  northeast  Siberia  use  hardly 
anyt  h ing  else,  and  nothing  is  so  warm  and  lighl  as  their  dress.  There 
are  slight  local  d i ffe rences  in  the  make-up  of  the  clol hing,  but  in  gen- 
eral, t  he  men's  winter  clot  lies  consisl  of  a  single  pair  of  (dose-fitting 
trousers,  with  the  hair  nexl  the  skin  for  cold,  and  the  reverse  for 
ordinary  weal  her;  a  pair  of  socks,  with  the  hair  next  the  feel :  a  pair 
of  boots  with  the  hair  out,  with  heavy  sealskin  soles  \'ov  hard  wear 
or  deerskin  sole-,  for  lighl  wear:  two  artigges.  or  shirts,  one  with  the 
hair  next  the  body  and  the  other  with  the  hair  out.  and  both  with 
close-fitting  hoods  fringed  with  wolfskin  to  break  the  wind  from  the 
face  and  nose:  and  a  pair  of  mittens.  These  are  all  made  of  the 
summer  skins  of  the  reindeer,  and  the  whole  out  fit  will  not  weigh 
more  than  In  or  li'  pounds.  Over  the  skin  shirt  is  worn  a  snow 
shin,  made  of  drilling,  and  sometimes  a  pair  of  drill  trousers  is  worn 
over  the  skin  trousers  to  keep  the  snow  from  driving  into  the  hair, 
and.  on  coming  indoors  into  a  warm  house,  melting  and  wetting  the 
deerskin.  A  bell  is  worn  around  the  waist  outside  the  shirt  to  keep 
the  cold  air  out.  or,  rather,  to  keep  the  warm  air  in.     This  is  loosened 


54 


CRI'ISE    OF    THE     IT.   S.    REVENl'E    (TTTI'.K     HEAR. 


when  t lit*  person  gels  too  warm.  Willi  tliis  oullit  well  sewed  and 
everything  t  ight,  one  can  defy  almost  any  decree  of  cold,  and  no 
a  lie  »nnl  of  woolen  clot  hing  accomplishes  the  same  result.  The  weight 
of  one's  clothing  is  very  telling  in  the  days  and  weeks  of  traveling 
through  the  snow  and  over  the  rough  ice.  and  the  lightness  of  the 
deerskin  is  one  of  its  mosl  striking  features,  The  skins  are  beauti- 
fully tanned,  and  arc  soft  and  pliable.  The  heavy  winter  skins  are 
seldom  used  for  clothes.  1  > u t  make  excellent  sleeping'  gear,  either  as 
mals  or  blankets,  or  made  up  as  sleeping  bags.  Here  also  their  light- 
ness and  warmlh  are  their  ehiel'   recommendations. 

Though  my  slay  was  forced  and  the  delay  irksome,  Mr.  and  .Mrs. 
I>revig  did  all  they  could  id  make  it  pleasant  and  profitable,  and  my 
outlit  had  a  thorough  overhauling.  Mr.  IJrevig  later  gave  me  great 
assistance  in  paying  my  debts  and  furnishing  me  with  supplies  to 
start  the  dec]'  herd,  wit  limit  which  I  would  have  been  great  ly  at  a  loss. 
Mere  I  parted  from  Dr.  Kettlcson  and  Mikkel.  as  1  hey  were  to  return 
to  their  herd  at  (J-olovin  May.  I  was  under  many  obligations  to  them 
for  t  heir  assistance  thus  far  ami  for  informal  ion  concerning  reindeer. 

.In  a  an  rij  .'■!.  —  Early  in  the  morning,  with  the  thermometer  —  :»0 
and  the  blizzard  slid  blowing.  I  finally  got  slarted  for  Cape  IVincr  of 
Wales.  There  were  t  wo  nat  i  ves  with  me.  one  Art  isa  r  look  and  anol  hei 
•  •ailed  ••Ed."  who  had  spent  several  years  on  a  whaler  al  llersehel 
Island.  <>n  accouul  of  his  acquaintance  with  while  men.  Ed  pre- 
sumed to  lake  charge  of  me.  but  a  short  distance  oul  he  discovered 
I  hat  his  gun  had  somehow  dropped  from  die  vied,  and  going  back 
over  the  trail  to  find  it.  did  not  return.  Ariisarlook  and  1  kepi  on. 
however,  and  made  slow  progress  along  the  beach  until  aboul  1 
o'clock,  when  he  wanted  to  camp.  1  was  not  yet  tired  and  thought 
he  was  I  rying  to  work  on  my  fears,  and  so  told  him  to  go  on.  1 1  was 
now  dark  and  we  were  near  ('ape  York,  where  the  bluffs  come  down 
abruptly  to  the  sea.  and  our  road  was  over  the  ice  crushes  thai  lined 
the  shore.  lie  went  ahead  to  pick  out  the  way  and  I  was  lefl  to  man- 
age i  he  heavy  sled,  which  was  conl  inually  capsizing  in  the  rough  ice, 
and  ii  was  aboul  all  we  both  could  do  to  rigid  it.  About  S  o'clock  I 
was  completely  played  oul  and  quite  willing  to  camp.  lint  Ariisar- 
look said  "no."  it  was  1  oo  cold  to  camp  wit  ho  til  wood,  and.  as  I  he  ice 
we  wen-  on  was  in  danger  of  breaking  off  from  the  shore  any  minute, 
it  was  necessary  1  hat  we  get  beyond  the  line  of  bluffs  before  stop- 
ping. In  ihe  darkness  I  stepped  through  a  crack  in  the  ice,  and  my 
Ice,  to  the  knee  was  immediately  one  mass  of  ice.  !  was  now  com 
pi '1  led  i o  go  mi  I o  sonic  pla.ee  w  here  my  fool  gear  could  be  dried,  and, 
l  1 1 < » 1 1 Li' h  almost  ready  to  drop  where  I  was.  I  had  to  keep  on.  for  to 
si  op.  i  ne;  i  nt  I  o  f  ree/.e.  I  'ushing  a  ml  lift  iug  on  i'  sled,  a  nd  urging  I  he 
do^>.  we  drauued  along  until  midnight,  when  we  came  ton  house, 
high  up  on  the  shore,  thai  Ariisarlook  some  lime  before  had  i-TI  me 
aboul.      Though    it    turned  out    to  be  a  horrible  place,   no  palace  could 


CRCISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTKR  HEAR. 


55 


have  been  more  welcome.  It  was  a  small  hut,  about  K>  by  1l\  and  o 
feet  high,  and  15  people  were  already  sleeping  there.  It  was  most 
filthy  and  the  worst  house  I  have  seen  in  all  my  Alaskan  experience; 
but  I  was  too  tired  then  to  care  for  that,  too  1  ired  even  to  eat  :  and 
though  I  had  had  nothing  but  a  couple  of  crackers  since  morning,  I 
was  quite  satisfied  to  take  off  my  wet  clothing,  crawl  into  my  bag, 
and  sleep. 

,Ia  i  ui  a  i'I)  .'//.  —  When  we  awoke  in  the  morning  the  natives  had  dried 
our  clothes,  and  urged  us  to  stay,  as  the  blizzard  was  still  raging  out- 
side, but  their  hut  was  too  filthy  to  remain  in  it  any  longer  than 
necessary.  The  air  was  horrible,  and  it  was  refreshing  to  get  out- 
side and  to  be  going  again  through  the  storm  and  over  the  rough  ice. 
Even  Arlisarlook  found  difficulty  in  eating  his  breakfast,  and  ex- 
plained to  me  thai  the  house  and  the  people  were  too  dirty  for  him  to 
eat  anything  with  them.  There  was  another  village  about  lo  miles 
farther  on,  and  here  we  stopped  and  fortified  ourselves  with  a  good 
meal  for  our  hard  trip  around  the  mountains  of  the  cape.  1  also 
engaged  a  small  sled  to  go  with  us  to  lighten  the  heavy  load  on  the 
one  we  had. 

I  thought  the  ice  we  recently  passed  over  had  made  a  rough  road, 
but  this  was  even  worse,  for  here  were  all  the  crushingsof  the  straits 
shoved  up  against  the  mountains  1  hat  ran  down  abruptly  into  the  sea, 
tnd  over  this  kind  of  ice  we  had  to  make  our  way.  Darkness  set 
at  long  before  we  had  come  to  the  worst  of  it,  and  a  faint  moon  gave 
too  little  light  for  such  a  road.  It  was  a  continuous  jumble  of  dogs, 
sleds,  men,  and  ice — particularly  ice — and  it  would  be  hard  to  tell 
which  suffered  most,  men  or  dogs.  Once,  in  helping  the  sled  over  a 
particularly  bad  place,  I  was  thrown  S  or  !'  feet  down  a  slide,  landing 
on  the  back  of  my  head  with  the  sled  on  top  of  me.  Though  the 
mercury  was  —  ■!•»  .  I  was  wet  through  with  perspiration  from  the  vio- 
lence of  1  he  work.  Our  sleds  were  racked  and  broken,  our  dogs  played 
out,  and  we  ourselves  scarcely  able  to  move,  when  we  finally  reached 
.Mr.  Lopp's  house  at  the  cape.  I  think  the  5<>  miles  from  Port 
Clarence  to  (ape  Prince  of  Wales,  the  most  trying  and  fearful  of  all 
I  experienced  on  the  expedition,  and  1  was  about  convinced  then  that 
if  there  were  any  more  places  like  that,  a  relay  of  men  would  be 
needed,  as  well  as  of  dogs  and  reindeer.  The  next  morning  both 
Artisarlook  and  myself  "wore  so  completely  done  up  we  could  scarcely 
raise  our  feet. 

My  arrival  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  caused  great  excitement  in  the 
village,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lopp  were  much  exercised  to  know"  what 
brought  an  officer  of  the  Uovernmenl  into  the  count  vy  at  this  time  of 
the  year.  I  delivered  lo  Mr.  Lopp  his  mail,  and  explained  to  him  the 
necessity  of  the  sit  nation  at  Point  Barrow  and  the  desire  of  the  Depart- 
ment that  he  become  a  part  of  the  expedition.  lie  was  indispensable. 
His  capability  of  handling  natives,   his   knowledge  of  them  and  the 


5G 


chuise  of  Tin-: 


REVENUE    Cl'TTKK    BEAK. 


reindeer,  was  far  above  1  lml  of  any  one  in  ihe  country.  While  in  no 
wnv  oslentat  ions,  lie  and  M  rs.  I.opp  had  acquired  a  |)osi1  ion  of  ascend - 
iMicv  and  res  peel  anions'  I  lie  nal  i  ves  1  lml  was  product  ive  ol'  llic  ^reat- 
csi  success  in  I'd i«M'inii'  llic  condition  ol'  llic  lattci-.  I  I'ch  sure  he- 
would  Lin  with  inc.  lml  knew  there  must  he  many  u'ra\'c  mailers  to 
he  considered  and  sett  led  he  fore  he  could  leave.  lie  first  explained 
In  me  the  position  his  reindeer  herd  occupied.  Some  were  owned  by 
his  society,  ilie  American  Missionary  Association,  others  by  himself 
and  his  "  hoys."  or  native  herders— six  bright,  sniarl    Kskinio  youtlis, 

whom  he  had    l  rained    to  1 xeellenl    deernien — and  a  small  number 

were  owned  bv  nalives  of  the  ('ape  I'rince  of  Wales  village.  The 
Association  had  written  him  to  use  his  best  judgment  ahoul  letlin.u' 
the  di-er  u'o.  and  ijave  him  liberty  to  leave  his  station  if  he  deemed  it 
best.  The  reindeer  had  been  builded  upon  by  his  people  as  theii 
future  weallh  and  suppoi't  in  life,  and  1o  lose  them  now  would  be  to 
make  a  break  in  the  work  thai  could  not  be  reckoned.  Still,  in  the 
inlerest  of  humanity,  he  said  he  would  Liive  them  all.  explain  tin- 
case  to  t  he  ual  i  ves,  and  induce  them  1o  n'ive  their  deer  also,  if  I  would 
throw  around  them  all  the  safeguards  in  my  power,  to  the  effect  that 
their  loss  would  be  fully  repaired  and  repaid. 

At  his  solicit  at  ion  I  imve  him  a  receipt  for  the  deer  herd,  spec  i  fy  i  uu 
thai  I.  as  the  1'epresenlalive  of  the  ("idled  States  Treasury  Depart- 
ment, received  t  hem  for  1  he  Use  of  thai  Depa  rt  ineul .  which  he  desired 
should  also  assume  the  responsibility  o|  their  relurn.  There  were 
in  all  o<d  in  the  herd.  -2U-2  of  which  were  i/ivon  upon  this  promise 
of  return,  but  the  other  '.i  belonged  In  a  nati\'e  who  was  unwilling 
to  part  with  his  in  this  way.  and  as  it  was  iniprad  ieable  to  separate 
the  herd.  I  was  compelled  to  buy  these  !•,  l:  i  \  in  u'  orders  for  yoods 
upon  Mr.  Urevi.u-  at  I'ori  Clarence  and  upon  you.  Once  Mr.  I.opp 
decided  to  jLi'<>,  a  very  important  consideration  was  the  position  and 
welfare  of  his  w  jfe  and  fatnilv  d  urinu'  his  absence.  Instead  of  holding 
her  husl>and  hack.  .Mrs.  I/>pp  linked  him  lo  u'o.  believing  it  to  be  his 
duty.  It  was  lb-si  surest eil  thai  sin-  and  the  eliildren  <;'o  to  I'ori 
Clarence  and  remain  with  Mr.  [>re\  i *i'  and  his  wife,  but  Mrs.  I.opp 
would  not  leave  her  home  and  l  he  work  I o  which  she  had  devoted  her 
life. and  insisied  upon  remaining,  lordlier  wil  h  hei-  children,  the  only 
while  persons  in  this  village  of  nvcr  ~>i><>  nat  ives.  Though  in  a  mosl 
trying  position  durinv.  Mr.  Lopp's  absence,  her  faith  in  the  native 
character  and  her  hold  upon  it  were  vindicated,  for  she  not  only  had 
illh-or  no  trouble,  but  received  much  help  and  comfort  from  them 
1  husband  was  away  with  the  expedition.  I  am  u'lad  to  be 
able  to  s;i  v  t  h i -  not  only  to  testify  to  the  sincerity  and  bravery  of 
both  Mr.  and  Mrs.  I.opp.  bul  also  lo  deinousl  rate  that  the  natives 
-  part  ieular  v  illau'e  are  not  I  he  wild,  reckless,  murdering  people 
tha1  manv  have  represented  t  hem  tube.  but.  on  the  conl  rary.  are  a 
-'  iod.  brav  e.  and  generous  I  ribe. 


--•if*  * 


«  V 


CRCISE    OF    Till- 


UiSVEXFE    ( TTTK.K    BKAK. 


57 


The  journey  and  task  ahead  of  us  was  a  hazardous  one.  any  way 
we  miii'lil  look  at  it,  and  it  was  necessary  before  starling  to  make  the 
most  careful  and  ample  preparations.  First,  Mr.  Lopp  onuairod  his 
six  herders,  Ootenna,  K  ivyearzruk.  Sokweena.  Keuk,  link,  and  \e1ax- 
ite.  and  a  sled  was  seal  lit  Porl  Clarence  to  brine,'  back  Tautuk,  a 
herder  there.  Xetaxitc  was  left  behind  in  work  for  .Mrs.  Lopp  and 
care  for  the  house,  thus  uivinu'  us  7  herders,  includine;  Art  isarlook. 
We  were  making  an  experiment:  no  such  undertaking  had  ever 
before  been  tried  in  Alaska,  and  we  could  not  tell  how  lone;  il  would 
require  to  travel  the  T < '  »  miles  ahead  of  us.  We  must,  if  possible. 
jU'et  to  Point  Harrow  before  April,  as  by  thai  time  the  fawning  season 
beii'an.  Auain.  il  was  necessary  to  lit  out  l he  parly  to  be  independent 
of  villages,  from  the  beuinniiie,'  to  the  end  of  the  journey.  I  had  no 
fear  of  the  natives  we  iniuhl  meet,  but  the  doys  at  any  place  mij»'h1 
disperse  our  deer  herd  and  leave  us  stranded.  We  had  a  ureal 
amount  of  work  10  accomplish  before  we  could  start.  Sleds  must 
be  built .  1  lie  herders  must  be  lit  led  oul  properly  with  clothing,  clot  lies 
bau's.  1  cut  s.  stoves,  camp  L>ear,  and  spare  harness,  and  lassoes  mus1  be 
made.  Clothing  was  the  mosl  important  item,  for  herdinu'  and  driv- 
ing are  particularly  hard  oti  skin  (dot  lies,  and  everything  available 
was  bouu'hl  ami  made  up.  for,  even  if  we  did  not  need  it,  it  would 
be  invaluable  at  Point  Harrow.  Il  was  not  until  the  iM'th  thai  these 
preparations  were  finished  and  we  "were  aide  to  i>"o  out  to  the  herd, 
which  was  about  i'o  miles  (list a nl,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  cape,  and 
where  We  ai'H  Ved  on   1  he  .')<  >1  11. 

The  herd  was  in  oxeelienl  condition,  bu1  there  was  only  a  small 
number  of  t  rai  ned  sled  i\^c\-  for  so  Iarit'o  a  party,  and  out  I'M  as  we  had 
to  carry  with  tis.  Dr.  Call  with  Artisarlook's  herd  had  nol  yel  arrived, 
and  we  vet  io  work  making  the  best  use  of  the  time,  buildine;  more 
sleds  and  breaking  in  sleil  i\^'v.  On  the  niuht  of  February  1  Tautuk 
arrived  from  Port  Clarence  with  two  uood  sled  deer  of  his  own.  two 
sleds,  and  a  h>1  of  clothing  from  the  Teller  Reindeer  Station.  lie 
rejxirtef]  thai  Dr.  Call  and  An  isarlook'  had  left  Port  Clarence  thai 
same  < lay  and  thai  he  mus1  have  passed  them  somewhere  in  1  he  moun- 
tains. <  Mir  a  n  x  iely  was  relieved  the  nexl  aflernoon.  however,  when 
the  doctor  and  Charlie  showed  up  with  their  herd.  They  had  a  hard 
lime  of  it  from  Point  Rodney,  with  slorms  and  deep  snow  in  the 
mountains,  and  had  lost  two  deep  on  the  road.  Thing's  had  now  a 
much  more  assuring  a  sped .  and  we  were  all  anxious  to  u'd  off  on  what 
we  hoped  would  be  a  successful  journey,  bul  which  had  doubtful 
points  aboul   it  1  hat  could  no1   be  foretold. 

February  '■>  we  started  with  bis  deer  and  a  1  rain  of  1  s  sleds.  Ii  took 
a  lone,'  time  to  break  camp  and  pack  and  lash  all  these  sleds,  as  well 
as  in  lasso  and  harness  the  deer  to  draw  them.  Mr.  Lopp  and  three 
herders  having  liu'lit  sleds  and  w<dl -broken  dfcv.  went  belli  ml  the  herd, 
driving'  from  one  side  to  the  oilier  and  keeping'  it  niovinu'  on  the  jump. 


CKI'ISK    nF    THE     I'.   >.    L'KVKNri:    (TTTMK     I'.EAK. 


Taut  uk  bmuyhl  with  lii  m  a  small  La  pp  doy  t  hal  was  1  rained  to  this 
work.  ;uii  I  1 1 1  is  lii  tic  I'd  low  circled  ;ir«  mi  ml  tin-  outer  edyes  of  I  lie  herd 
Mini  kept  tin'  deer  from  straviuy.  l!'  i>m'  started  li-i  nn  the  herd,  ihe 
iIdl:  w  a-  a  fi  '■!■  him.  harkiuy  at  his  heels  until  he  returned.  In  this 
\va  v  tin-  dee  i-  were  kepi  inuv  i  1 1  y  a  h  my  i  11  niie  eiim  pad  body,  and  as  the 
mad  was  hard  and  fairly  level,  we  weiii  at  a  very  yood  pace.  The 
rest  id'  us  weiii  with  the  train,  which  consisted  of  the  olher  thirteen 
sleds  and  deer,  This  train  was  really  1  lime  separate  trains,  twin.!' 
I'n iir.  and  uiie  of  live  sleds.  The  (|c.-r  in  eaeh  t  rain  were  i  i «-< ]  by  t  heir 
lariat  >  in  the  sled  ahead,  and  1  ho  driver  silt  iny  on  t  lie  head  sled,  guided 
his  deer,  while  the  others  were  compelled  to  follow.  The  doctoral 
times  look  pari  in  the  driving,  but  I  was  eontenl  to  sil  on  a  sled  in 
one  of  the  1  rains  and  see  the  procession  ahead  of  me.  In  1  his  way  one 
man  handled  four  or  live  sleds,  and  many  a  re  the  lanyles  and  .jumbles 
the  animals  cei  imo  when  yoiny  up  ami  down  the  hills,  for  in  1  rains 
like  t  Ids  t  he  deer  soon  worry  t  hemsehes  inio  a  state  of  excitement, 
by  niyhl  we  had  made  from  n  to  s  miles,  and  thouyh  ii  was  uo1  much 
in  distance,  we  had  moved  from  our  base,  and  ii  seemed  thai  we  had 
made  a  yood  stall   a1  doiny  somet  liiny. 

/*"  <  -nn  -ij  'h  -Ii  look  a  lony  time  this  mnniim:'  to  break  camp  and 
yel  t  lie  sleds  u  iovi  1 1  y.  a  1  id  i  yTeW  i  in  pal  ieli  1  ai  1  he  delay.  We  kepi  I  o 
I  he  hilU.  for  !  her,,  i  he  deer  moss  was  plein  iful.  Indeed,  ii  s<  eiiioi: 
the  disposil  ion  of  the  deer  people  i  o  >i  iek  I  o  i  he  hills  as  i  heir  nat  urai 
lie  Ids.  This  is  \  ery  well  for  ordinary  work  and  l  ra  \  <■'■..  bin  mn-  rxpi'- 
i  ieiice  hit  er  mi  proved  thai  1  he  ilea  mi  \  ■■  kepi  i  o  i  he  ie\  el  y  round  and 
the  ice  mi  the  cu;hi.  even  ihoiiyh  ai  :  i :  _  i  i '  we  had  in  drive  some  dis- 
tance back  to  lii  H I  moss.  1  he  more  d  i  si  a  nee  a  head  we  could  make,  and 
with  much  less  trial  and  exertion  to  oiirsel\es  and  the  di-er.  The 
bayyaye  Irain  was  the  worst  pari  of  ihe  outlil.  and  caused  nearly  all 
of  the  delays.  This  day  we  probablv  made  abmil  IJ  miles,  which  was 
yood  progress  if  we  could  keep  ii  up.  bill  ii  was  cvideui  thai  our  sled 
deer  would  play  on  1  in  a  shori  time  i  f  we  could  not  red  uce  t  he  we iy hi 
on  i  he  i  rai  u. 

Tin-  ei  in  in  ]-y  was  ml  liny  and  apparenl  ly  per  feci  ly  barren.  The  hiyh 
winds  1  hat  had  pivvai  led.  had  packed  t  he  snow  hard  where  vcr  ii  was 
exposed,  and  even  in  1  he  deep  \  alleys  1  here  w  as  crust  eiioiiyh  to  bear 
the  w.-iyhi  ,,f  the  sleds.  There  was  moss  for  ihe  '\^<-v  all  o\  er  the 
con  hi  r\  .bin  ii  was  most  abundant  on  tin  hi  lit  ops.  1 1  was  an  ideal 
reindeer  coil  lit  ly.  and  this  nort  h  shore  of  1  he  peninsula  would  support 
lame  and  numerous  herds.  Alders  and  willow  yrow  alony  the  banks 
of  the  streams,  bin  in  most  places  the  snow  was  so  deep  thai  they 
u  em  complete!  \  covered.  We  had  to  depend  upon  I  hese  for  lire  wood. 
and   ' '    w  ,-|s  \  er\    dilTieiill   to  yel   eiinuyh   I'm'  our  purpose. 

/•  ■'.      i  Mi    ilds   clay,  ihoiiyh    we    were    under    wa\    about    six 

hour-,  k,-  made  Inn  s  miles.  Soiiielhiny  had  to  be  done,  for  the  de- 
la  \s  ami  '  "-.ai ;.  ins  of  t  lie  bayyaye  t  rain  were  causing  the  loss  of  valu- 


CRUISE    OF     THE     I".   S.    REVENUE    <  TTTEK     BEAR. 


able  time  and  wearing  oiil  the  drci-.  We  wciv  breaking  l"r«*sli  ones 
each  1 1  i «Li" lit,  I >n1  these  were  pom-  inakeshil'ts.  and  il  was  liard  work  get- 
tin.ii  them  along.  1'pun  talking  it  over  with  .Mr.  Lopp.  I  decided  to 
leave  1  he  herd  in  his  sole  charge,  and  lake  the  doctor,  with  our  bag- 
gage, down  to  a  village  on  the  coast,  there  secure  dog  teams,  and  go 
on  to  Kot /.ehue  Sound,  apprising  1  he  people  of  Mr.  Lopp's  coming,  and 
make  such  arrangements,  as  were  possible  to  help  him  along.  1  was 
disappoi  nl  e(l  tn  leave  the  herd,  for  I  had  Imped  to  travel  with  it  to 
I'oi  nt  Harrow  and  Ik  dp  solve  I  he  problem  of  i  he  route  fart  her  on.  bm 
the  necessity  of  the  situation  required  some  radical  change. 

It  was  found  that  our  leaving  would  take  away  1  he  loads  of  six  sleds. 
We  were  not  essential  to  the  progress  of  the  herd.  Mr.  Lopp  and  his 
herders  liavin.u'  all  the  knowledge  and  experience  necessary  for  the 
work  in  hand,  and  we.  with  our  baggage,  were  just  so  much  more  to 
be  hauled.  I>y  t  raiist'ci'i-iiiu'  our  outfit  to  dog  teams  we  would  relieve 
the  train  of  that  much  weight.  Besides,  there  were  many  things  I 
could  i  lo  ahead  to  help  l  hem  along.  The  nat  ives  beyond  (ape  Prince 
of  Wales  had  never  seen  domestic  deer,  had  no  know  ledge  of  their 
coming  through  the  country,  and  might,  as  happened  later  at  one 
place,  take  them  for  wild  deer  and  go  gunning  for  them.  This  dan- 
ger I  could  guard  against  by  tolling  the  people  at  each  village  what 
was  coming  behind.  There  was  information  as  to  the  best  route  and 
the  character  of  the  country  that  I  could  Leather  in  advance  and  pre- 
pare t  he  way  w  ii  h  guides,  etc.  These  mailers  were  all  discussed  wit! 
Lop])  and  an  understanding  as  to  our  diiferenl  movements  arrived  at. 

It  was  hoped  that  the  herd  would  be  able  to  cross  Kotzebuo  Sound 
on  the  ice.  and  thus  save  the  lone'  journey  around  the  head  of  the 
sound,  and  yet  1  his  was  very  doubtful,  depending,  of  course,  upon  the 
winds.  A  southeast  wind  breaks  up  the  ice  in  the  Sound  and  opens 
leads  of  water  through  it.  while  a  northerly  wind  keeps  the  ice  firm 
and  in  place,  and  the  cold  soon  freezes  over  any  open  places.  I  was 
in  learn  the  conditions  of  the  ice  over  the  Sound  and  semi  back  word 
to  Lopp  how  to  prepare  for  this  part  of  the  journey. 

Fi-hrim  r>/  >'). — This  morn  i  iil;-  while  we  were  preparing  to  start  for 
Sinrazat.  a  village  on  the  coast,  the  very  man  we  wauled,  a  native, 
IVrninyuk  by  name,  came  t  ramping  over  the  hill  back  of  our  cam]), 
lie  was  on  a  hunting  trip  and  was  probably  the  only  man  for  miles 
around,  and  how  he  came  to  strike  our  camp  a1  the  v<n-y  time  we 
wanted  him  so  badly  was  nnexplainable.  After  the  freezing  of  the 
streams  in  the  fall  the  people  hereabouts  depend  upon  seal  in.ii'  and 
rabbit  hunting  for  their  winter's  food,  part  of  the  population  remain- 
in. u'  on  t  he  coast .  going  oul  on  the  ice  c\  i'ry  favorable  day  w  hen  there 
is  open  water  offshore,  while  others  go  back  into  the  hills  trapping 
rabbits,  and  IVrninyuk  had  just  come  out  for  thai  purpose.  1  en  paired 
him  to  u'o  alone  (lie  coasl  with  us  as  guide,  and.  Lopp  having  driven  us 
lo   the  village  of  Sinrazat.  we   parted    there  on   the   nighl    of   the  nth 


,1 1 


rwrisK  in--    riii'.   r.  s.  kkvexik  cittkk   iu.ai;. 


wit  1 1  nun  i  la  I  yood  w  ishes  ami  hopes  of  meet  iny  ayain  in  the  vicinity 
i  if    Ko1  /.el  nic  Sound. 

Alonu  i  1 1 1 ■--< -  shores  stretches  a  scries  of  layootis  from  ('ape  I'rince 
of  Wales  to  within  1"  miles  of  (ape  Kspenbery.  I  lie  larycsl  beiny 
Schi^i'hmai-fl]'  Inld.  into  wliich  two  fair-sized  rivets  Slow  from  the 
mountains  1  •  *  the  sottlli.  'I  noiie.li  a  I  a  rye  body  of  water,  il  i>  tilleil 
iars.  ;iml  it  >  open  iny  to  t  he  sea  is  hardly  more  t  ha n  deep  enoiiyh 
I'm- a  boat.  Where  the  layooiis  end  lliecoasl  is  a  line  of  Muffs  ami 
>mall  siml  hills  uulil  Cape  Kspenbery  is  reached,  which  terminates 
in  a  \  i tv  low   sand  spit . 

There  are  numerous  remains  of  old  villages  all  ahmy  1 1 1  *  *  coast, 
Pill  that  they  are  now  descried  I  believe  to  be  due  not  so  much  to 
the  fact  thai  there  are  less  people,  as  1o  the  desire  to  chanue  a 
situation  when  the  houses  yet  into  bad  repair  and  the  accumulation 
of  tilth  is  loo  ureal  aboul  them.  Wood  is  plentiful,  and  it  is  no  ureal 
'a-i\  to  uet  enough  for  a  new   house  when  wanted. 

We  now  hi  uan  a  very  tryiny  experience.  The  natives  alony  this 
pari  of  the  coa>1  were  very  poor,  and  scattered  in  -mad  numbers  at 
distances  of  about  l'o  miles  apart .  Sealiny  had  been  very  poor.  In 
some  places  their  doys  had  starved,  and  the  people  1  hcmselves  had 
lit  t  le  to  eat .  No  one  man  seemed  to  possess  more  than  i  wo  or  t  hree 
doys  ai  most .  and  t  he  d  illicit  It  ies  of  olitain  i  uy  means  of  t  ravel  were 
almost  insurinountable.  li  seemed  impo>sib  e  to  uet  anyone  to  either 
take  us.  or  u'o  alonu  wit  h  us  more  t  ha  i  one  day's  jm  ne  from  Ids  own 
home.  The  best  we  could  do  d  uri  nu  the  day  w  a-  about  _' '  or  ;.'•"  mi  Ies. 
and    at    niu'ht    il    was    a    lonu.    tryinu    ordeai.   l"    btiy.   borrow,  or    hire 

doys.    sleds,    and     lllell     to    U'o    "II     III     the     ||e\1     villayo.        UV     found    one 

man  who  was  on  his  wa\  to  I'oinl  Hope  to  briuu  back  a  bride,  and  I 
induced  him  to  join  our  train  and  help  its  alonu.  but  one  inurniny. 
farther  on.  his  heart  failed  him  and  he  de-died,  lcaviny  us  badly  in 
the  lurch. 

<>ur    trials  were  many    and    e.xaspcrat  inu.      We  would    buy    or    hire 

dous.  only  to    have  them  run    away  and    return    to  their  owner-   after 

uninu  but  a  -hurt  distance  with  us.      Nat  i  ve  doys  are  very  unlikely  to 

remain    with    anyone    i  part  icularly    while    men)    bill    their  owners,  if 

i  he\   are  wit  hin  reach  of  the  \  illaye  where  t  hey  live.      They  will  chew 

lie  -i  out  est  ha  rn  es-  or  rope,  and  no1  h  i  ny  bill  a  chain  will  keep  t  hem 

-ecu rely,  bui  chain-  are    too  m  uch  weiyhl    to  carry  on  so  lonu  a    .joiir- 

m-\  .      Kina     \.     i\    bribinu.  t  hreateiiiny.  nnd  offeriny  shiploads  ot'  ]»ro- 

-ion-.   we   maiiau'eil    to    reach    Toaltil  at   (ape  Kspenbery.       We  were 

\orn    out.  and    our    pr<»\  isions    had     been    drawn    upon    so 

'     .     b\     our    nati\'e    friends    that    hardly  more    remained    now 

'han    a  lew   broken    cracker-,  eiioiiyh    beans  for  a  day.  and    some  tea. 

lei-n    hunurv    for  while  man'-  food,  and    had    helped    lliem- 

'  o  o  i  r-  and  eaten    to  their  heart  s'  content .  while  we  dai  ed    nol 

-a\     i    ,\ord    ie-i     i||i-\    should     lea\e    u-.       hi  na  1  i  \  .  a  1    this    place,  al!  of 


cktise  of  Tin:  r.  s.  rkykntk  cutter  bear. 


61 


them  except  I'erninyuk  did  leave  us  and  lake  their  sleds  with  them, 
and  I  think  mainly  because  they  thoughl  we  would  starve,  for  evi- 
dently they  had  no  faith  in  my  story  of  the  sled  loads  of  provisions 
awaiting  us  al  (ape  IJlossom. 

There  were  only  two  lints  in  Toat  ul .  and  in  these  were  crowded 
twenty  people;  I  tut  no  indncemenl  could  gel  the  in  to  go  across  the 
Sound  the  next  day.  ll  was  more  than  t11  miles  over  the  ice  to  (ape 
IJlossom,  where  1  fell  Lieutenant  IJertholf  was  waiting  for  us  with  Ids 
load  of  provisions  and,  probably  wondering  what  had  become  of  us. 
for  we  were  now  about  a  week  behind  our  plans.  I  was  tired  and 
worried.  We  had  been  separated  since  December  i'"  and  had  heard 
absolutely  nothing  of  llerl  holfs  whereabouts  or  his  progress  since 
that  time,  and  did  not  know  even  if  he  had  arrived  at  St.  .Michael.  I 
had  left  him  at  K  iyiligam  tile  to  wait  for  dogs.  Had  they  come  on 
time,  or  did  he  have  to  wait?  Had  any  accident  or  sickness  befallen 
him,  and  had  he  been  able  to  gel  across  the  divide  to  the  Arctic  with 
his  heavy  load'/  Was  the  snow  too  deep  or  soft,  and  had  he  been 
stalled  somewhere?  There  were  no  people  in  all  thai  long  route,  and 
he  had  to  depend  upon  his  preparations  ent irely.  His  provisions  we 
were  now  greal ly  in  need  of,  and  our  progress  from  here  on  absolutely 
depended  on  them.  The  (leer  herd  was  behind,  and  1  could  no1  help 
being  worried  over  its  progress. 

I  had  perfect  faith  in  Lopp  and  his  boys,  but  the  progress  while  I 
had  been  with  the  herd  was  so  vexatious  and  slow  thai  I  could  only 
hope  thai  with  less  baggage  it  would  improve  after  we  had  left  and 
after  all  hands  had  become  more  accustomed  1o  the  daily  t  ravel.  Our 
own  posit  ion  was  also  rat  her  bad,  with  no  provisions  and  no  sleds,  and 
•A"  miles  of  ice  that  might  open  at  any  time  between  us  and  the  hope 
of  supplies.  A  week  before  the  ice  had  been  open,  bnl  for  the  last 
live  days  the  wind  had  been  from  the  north,  with  'he  thermometer 
from  —  l'D  to  _•")  .  and  the  old  men  of  the  village  said  the  ice  was 
all  right.  Yet  nothing  could  induce  the  young  men  to  cross  with  us 
the  next  day.  "'No/'lheN  said,  "not  until  we  go  out  on  the  ice  and 
see  for  ourselves  w  het  her  it  is  safe  or  not."  I  t  ried  to  explain  to  them 
that  anot  her  day  and  another  wind  might  change  matters,  but  it  was 
of  no  use.  t  hey  won  Id  not  move.  All  I  he  next  day  we  were  compelled 
in  wait,  idly  gazing  at  the  mountains  on  the  other  side  and  wonder- 
ing whet  her  l  here  was  more  to  eat  l  here  than  on  our  side.  There  was 
nothing  else  to  do  but  wait .  We  could  not  carry  our  clot  lies  and  out  - 
I'M  s  ourselves,  nor  could  we  replace  them,  for  deerskins  were  worth 
more  than  their  weight  in  gold  in  these  parts.  Perninyuk.  who  had 
remained  fail  h  ful  tons,  helped  us  pass  the  day  and  compose  ourselves 
by  giving  an  exhibition  of  his  magic,  lie  was  a  native  doctor,  or 
"  unat  kook,"  and  1  he  performance  consisted  of  two  hours  of  frenzied 
t  ragic  declamation  and  crawling  around  on  the  Hour,  combined  with 
a  few  si  niple  t  ricks. 


<;•_!  crtisk   of  Tin-:   r.  s    ki:\  knti:   <tttkk    hear. 


Thai  liiu'lii  I  hail  an  interest  in i;  experience,  which  showed  how  easily 
n;il  i\  !•»'  act  ions  ma  \  lie  misunderstood  ami  misrepresented.  There  was 
,-tn  old  couple  living  iii  ihc  house.  .- 1 1 m I  hearinii  somet  hhie.  unusual  in 
their  curlier.  1  looked  iivit  and  saw  t  he  old  man  tie  a  st  rinu1  around 
his  \vife">  neck  and  pui  a  lone.'  si  ick  in  the  loop.  The  old  woman  w  as 
sick.  I  have  Ion-  heard  of  how  llie  old  and  sick  are  sometimes  killed 
lo  pui  i  hem  "in  of  their  miseries  and  relieve  their  relatives  of  the 
burden  of  keeping  them,  and  the  thought  came  that  the  old  man  was 
uuiim  io  >iranii"le  his  wife  by  twisting  on  ihe  st  i<-k .  I  inunedialely 
mad  i-  >  l  roii. u-  object  ions  to  what  seen  km  I  to  me  won  hi  soon  be  m  urder. 
whereupon  the  natives,  who  showed  astonishnienl  at  my  interference. 
called  in  I 'end  i  iv  uk.  and  he  explained  how  I  was  mistaken.  There  was 
no  i  ni  cm  ion  of  harming  the  old  woman,  bul  she  was  sick  in  the  head. 
beinu'  possessed  there  of  a  devil  in  the  shape  of  a  dou'.  and  nii>'li1 
and  morn  inn  had  to  be  t  ied  up  in  this  way  like  a  doe,'  and  incantat  ions 
said  over  her  to  drive  oiii  the  devil.  My  mistake  was  amusinu'  and 
very  natural,  and  showed  how  easily  one  maybe  mistaken  in  a  people 
whose  ways  and  customs  one  does  not  understand.  Without  IVr- 
niuyuk's  explanation.  1  niiivht  have  taken  to  myself  the  credh  of 
sloppiuu'  a  deliberate  murder,  whereas  I  was  only  interfering:  wiih 
the  administering  of  Ihe  doctor's  prescription. 

Toward  evening'  the  man  who  had  u'oiic  out  in  the  morning  came 
back  and  reported  the  ice  as  far  as  he  had  -one  lo  be  Li'ood  and  hard, 
and  thai  they  would  start   with  us  ihe  following  morn Jne.. 

/'"'  '/  ■"'";■'/  / .'.  I  >y  1  his  1  hue  the  days  were  fa  si  ^niwin.L;  longer,  and  it 
w  as  liuht  short  ly  after  s  o'clock,  when  we  start  ed.  At  the  last  minute 
our  prospective  bridegroom  descried  us  and  we  had  lo  be-in  a  e,reat 
h  list  line,'  for  doe,s  in  t  his  small  village.  l-'orl  in  lately,  one  of  t  he  yoiinu 
men  thought  lie  would  like  lo  visit  some  friends  and  do  a  little  trad- 
hie.'  on  !  In-  ol  her  side  of  1  he  Sound,  and  he  <  ill'ered  us  his  i  [o<i's  i  f  we 
would  lake  him  and  his  Mock  alone.'.  I  was  never  more  relie\ed  ihan 
when  we  finally  rushed  down  the  bank  on  to  ihe  ice  and  were  pointed 
for  the  mountains  back  of  Cape  IJlossom.  Alone;  the  shores  and  I'oi 
in  i  h-s  .in;  on  t  he  sound  t  here  were  heavy  crushes  of  ice  over  which  we 
had  >n  pick  our  w'ay  very  carefully,  often  beinu  obliged  to  carry  our 
-  cds.  as  u  e  wound  in  and  out  liuiilin-  for  the  smooth  patches  of  ice 
a  lew  days  before  had  been  open  leads.  The  north  wind  still 
pre\a:led.  and  with  the  bri-ht.  clear  sky  the  mountains  looked  close. 
'  rax  eiine;  hard  all  day  lhe\  seemed  lit  t  le  nearer  1  han  when 
The  nat  i ve>  wanted  io  camp  w  lien  i1   IV 1 1  dark,  bill    1  was 

deterii      lie   ;     In    make    the    land    oil     the   other    side    before    slopping.    Ilo 

■  .  ■..        look.      A  lew   crumbs  of  crackers  and  some  frozen 
aboiil   .pi  we  had    in    our  provision  box.  and   1   was  not 
-'"  u-     "     '■■  cauLi'hi   out  1 1n- re  wil  h  all  Lieutenant   l>ert  liolf's  stores  only 
a     ■  '-s  a  w  a  \  . 

\f''U'   ii   -htfa    i   we    kepi    our   course    by  the    stars,  and    the    natives. 
who  w  ere  i  i  red  out .  claimed  we  would   ni  iss  ihe  village,  wander  a  Ion  Li' 


CRL'ISE    OK    THE     l\   S.    REVHXt'E    CKTTEK     HEAR.  63 


way  up  Hothain  inlet,  and  lose  ourselves  lill  iiloi-ii i n.u"-  I >ul  being 
convinced  of  my  detcrminal  ion  to  keep  on  they  said  no  more  aboiil 
camping,  ami  we  worked  on  over  the  rough  places,  almost  famished, 
bill  hustling  the  dogs  and  ourselves  to  keep  warm.  Suddenly,  about 
lit.ofi  p.  in.,  we  came  againsl  the  land  at  the  graveyard  below  the  vil- 
lage of  Kikiktaruk.  and  soon  afler  drew  up  al  the  house  of  Kev. 
lioberl  Sanuns.  a  (Quaker  missionary,  who.  with  his  wife  and  .Miss 
1 1  mi  ii  icut  t .  a  i  earlier,  had  established  i  hem  selves  a  1  this  place  during 
the  previous  summer.  Here  also  was  Lieutenant  Lertholf.  who  had 
arrived  the  nighl  before.  We  were  relieved  and  overjoyed.  K very- 
thing  at  this  end  had  turned  out  well,  although  Lieutenant  Lertholf 
had  a  hard  time  getting  his  provisions  across  the  portage.  Kngle- 
stadt.  the  trader  at  I'nalaklik.  who  was  to  furnish  the  teams  for  the 
trip,  had  failed  to  keep  his  agreement,  and  Lertholf  had  been  at  the 
mere;  of  Mime  unscrupulous  na1  i  ves.  and  forced  logo  back  toGolovin 
Lay  to  the  dfcv  camp,  and  there  obtain  seven  <\rcv  and  sleds,  with  a 
Lapp  and  a  native  driver  to  help  him  along.  Lut  he  arrived  all  right, 
with  the  provisions  intact,  and  we  were  now  fully  able  to  prepare  all 
parts  of  the  expedition  for  the  long  and  hazardous  journey  to  Point 
Harrow.  There  was  not  much  to  be  done  that  night.  Loth  parties 
had  had  all  t  hey  couhl  stand  and  needed  rest.  The  weal  her  had  been 
growing  colder  and  the  light  north  wind  made  theti:?  of  frost  biting 
and  sharp,  but  we  fell  much  better  in  the  lenl  thai  nighl  after  a  good 
supper,  knowing  everything  was  in  good  shape,  than  we  would  have 
been  out  on  the  ice  of  the  sound,  with  no  tire  and  nothing  to  eat. 

F<  i>r a " /■//  /•'.  —We  --pent  t  he  day  overhauling  our  out  fits  and  decid- 
ing upon  points  further  on.  There  was  much  information  to  be  gath- 
ered a>  to  whether  the  <\i-(-v  herd  should  keep  the  coast  or  strike  up 
I  he  Noat  uk  I {iver  and  down  the  <  )otokok.  or  the  I kpikpung  rivers  to 
Point  Harrow.  L  seemed  shorter  to  strike  across  the  country,  but 
the  considoral  ions  of  t  imber.  deep  snow,  and  t  he  possibilities  of  get  1  ing 
lost  or  stalled  in  the  mountains  were  too  great  and  too  much  fraught 
with  danger  to  be  faced,  and  it  appeared  best  to  keep  to  the  coasl 
as  far  as  possible,  providing  we  could  find  moss  for  the  deer. 

Lerthoif  had  boiighl  at  St.  .Michael  the  dog  team  thai  had  carried 
me  from  Tununak.  and.  having  brought  it  over  the  portage  with  him. 
this  relieved  me  to  a  great  iwleiil  of  the  difficulties  of  travel  further 
on.  lie  had  also  brought  seven  good  sled  deer,  five  from  t  he  (xoverii- 
nienl  herd  and  two  from  the  herd  of  the  Swedish  missions.  These  I 
decided  1o  keep  to  help  out  the  train  in  our  large  herd.  Lopp*s  sled 
deer  musl  soon  be  played  out,  or  at  least  well  tired,  and  these  seven 
would  be  a  valuable  addit  ion. 

I  paid  off  and  sent  back  the  Laplander  and  the  natives  who  had 
come  in  Lieut ena n1  Lerl  hoi f's  t  rain,  exopt  one  nat  ive  herder.  <  >k  it  kun. 
who  was  retained  to  care  for  the  deer  they  brought.  I  knew  him  as  a 
thoroughly  good  and  reliable  Kskimo.  and.  moreover,  an  excellent 
deerman — one  of  t  he  best  in  the  count  r\ .  and  I  wanted  him  here  when 


64 


<  RIISE    OF     THE    l\    S.   REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAR. 


mil'  hei'il  came  alouir.  ( < >r  Lopp  s  choice.  1!  lie  should  he  needed,  or  in 
c;im'  ;  1 1 1  \  ol'  our  herders  had  played  out.  Accidents  were  always  pos- 
sible in  such  work  as  ihey  were  eiiii'a.u'ed  ill,  and  as  tliinus  had  to  he 
prepared  for  here.  I  wauled  to  take  all  the  safeguards  possible. 

Lopp,  however,  was  not  here  \et.  and  there  was  no  way  of  tellinu 
when  he  would  arrive:  ii  seemed  a1  Toalul  thai  1  he  ice  was  too  roiiidi 
for  i  he  deer  lo  cross  to  Kru/.eiistem,  and  I  had  left  a  letter  advising 
li i in  not  to  try  it.  for.  though  the  trip  around  Kotzebue  Sound  would 
take  at  lea  si  ten  days,  it  seemed  heller  to  iro  1  ha1  way  than  to  run  the 
risk  of  having  the  herd  scattered  on  the  ice.  and  perhaps  lost.  A>  I 
did  not  expect  the  herd  at  (ape  IJlossom  for  a  week.  and.  if  they  went 
around  the  Sound,  two  weeks.  I  could  not  wait  thai  lonii'.  1  musl  ue1 
tii  I'oini  Harrow  news  of  our  eoniiiiii'  and  obtain  news  from  there  as 
soon  a>  |tossible.  I'oini  Hope  was  bul  a  weeks  journey  distant  and  I 
fell  sure  some  news  would  be  there,  if  not  some  of  the  Point  Harrow 
people  themselves,  for  1  here  were  am  pie  st  ores  at  I'oini  Hope,  which 
the  people  at    Point    I  iarrow    k  Hew  . 

Arranuinu  our  affairs  to  provide  against  accidents  or  delays.  I 
decided  to  take  Surii'eon  Call  and  continue  on  to  Point  Nope  at  least, 
leaving  Lieutenant  IJertholf  behind  with  the  provisions  to  wail  for 
the  arrival  of  Lopp  and  the  <  leer  herd.  The  sit  uat  ion  was  t  ho  roughly 
understood  between  ns.  and  leaving  orders  for  IJertholf  to  come  on  to 
Point  Hope  it'  he  did  not  coin  in  lie  wit  li  !  he  ilccr  herd,  we  left  Cape 
I  Hi  issi  nn  mi  the  inoriiinu  of  the  I'ith.  The  weather  had  continued 
clear  ami  cold,  with  t  he  thermometer  resist  crimi  aboul  —  .'!-">  for  several 
days. 

St  i'ikiii,u"  across  I  lot  ham  I  n  let  low  ard  Cape  K  ru/.c listen i.  we  reached 
the  village  of  Anyok  that  niejit.  This  was  the  place  the  deer  herd 
was  in  make  for.  from  (ape  Kspenberu'.  ami  though  now-  I  hardly 
e.\  peeled  them  to  come  that  way.  ii  was  well  to  prepare  the  people 
and  have  them  on  the  lookoul.  As  it  turned  mil  afterwards,  they 
were,  at  thai  very  time,  camped  mil  on  the  ice  but  in  miles  from  the 
village.  From  here  on  to  I'oini  1  lope  we  had  ideal  weal  her  for  1  rax  - 
elitiL;.  clear  and  cold,  the  thennoineler  i*;i I lii'i 1 1 1»  from  -•!"  to  —  I- 
1  lie  w  In  ile  w  a\  ".  a  m  I  we  had  to  keep  movill.li".  With  plenty  of  food  and 
plenM  nf  driftwood  aloii.ii'  ihe  beach,  we  were  able  to  fortify  ourselves 
aitai  list  the  cold,  and  I  >y  exercisinii'  care  and  paying  at  t  cut  ion  to  our 
Hoses  and  cheek>,  we  were   not    touched   even    ill   these  sensitive   places. 

The  difference  between  care  and  carelessness  is  sliuhi.  in  arctic 
l  ra  \  'el.  and  t  he  first  let-up  is  sure  to  briuii'  its  reminder  in  1  he  shape  of 
a  I'fi  ist  ed  t  oe  or  linger  or  a  frozen  nose.  One  musl  be  on  mm  id.  and  I  lie 
sl'mhtesl  I  ine-c  iii  t  he  Hose  or  cheek  in  list  be  heeded .  and  ei  red  hit  ion 
started  au'ain  by  vigorous  rubbing.  Though  soinewlial  disagreeable 
nil1!  painful,  free/in. ii'  1  hese  [iarts  is  not  necessariK  harmful  unless  1  oo 
loin:  iieiiiectc(|.  1  >aw  a  case  where  the  end  ot  ;i  man's  hum  had 
dropped    off   from    frostbite,    but    such   things   are    rare.      Usually  the 


jurist;   of  tiii-;   r.  s.  rkventk   cutter   bear. 


Go 


skin  is  discolored,  becomes  dead  and  peels  off.  leaving  1he  member 
quite  sensitive  for  a  time.  I!ul  with  the  hands,  and  especially  the 
feet,  it  is  different.  Xo  pari  of  the  body  requires  more  attention 
than  these:  socks  and  boots  must  be  well  made  and  kepi  thoroughly 
i\vy ;  even  the  slightest  perspiral  ion  will,  if  one  stops  too  long,  work  dis- 
astrously. l>olh  boot  s  and  socks  should  bo  changed  immediately  upon 
going  into  camp,  and  dry  ones  must  be  put  on  in  the  morning  before 
starting.  The  nat  ives  know  the  importance  of  this  only  too  well,  and 
if  they  see  one  inclined  to  neglect  these  precautions,  they  will  insist 
on  his  taking  care  of  his  fool  gear.  It  is  1  he  easiest  thing  in  the  world 
for  a  man  to  suffer  severely  in  such  a  climate,  bill  it  is  possible,  by 
good  care  and  attention,  to  avoid  what  one  might  call  extreme  suffer- 
ing, and  live  t  here  wit h  only  1  he  unavoidable  discomforts  of  1  he  coun- 
try, to  which  a  man  in  good  health  sooner  or  later  grows  accustomed. 

We  had  now  bade  good-bye  to  native  houses,  and,  except  at  Point 
Hope,  camped  in  our  tenl  from  here  on  to  Point  Barrow.  I  much 
preferred  the  tenl  for  cleanliness  and  health,  although  when,  after  a 
long,  hard  day's  travel,  we  drew  up  at  a  village  cold,  hungry,  and 
tired.  i1  required  considerable  determination  and  a  more  powerful 
con  side  rat  ion  than  cleanliness  to  resist  1  he  tempt  at  ion  to  get  in  out  of 
the  cold  as  soon  as  possible.  Pitching  the  tenl  and  making  a  proper 
camp  seen  km  1.  at  such  times,  an  endless  .job,  and  one  was  a  pi  I  o  crawl 
into  the  nearest  hut,  drag  off  his  bundling  clothes,  and  settle  down  in 
some  corner  in  perfect  peace,  while  i  he  men  of  1  he  house  wenl  outside 
and  attended  to  the  wants  of  the  teams  and  secured  the  sleds  for  the 
night.  The  hospitably  of  these  people  I  have  never  seen  equaled 
eNewhere.  It  is  never  grudging:  itisihrust  upon  you.  The  best  they 
have,  and  the  besl  place  in  the  house  are  at  your  disposal.  It  is  so 
universal  that  it  comes  as  a  mailer  of  course,  and  as  a  result  does  not 
seem  to  be  properly  recognized  or  appreciated.  Often  it  is  embarrass- 
ing, for  the  natives  are  so  insistent  and  generous  thai  it  is  hard  to 
refuse  to  accept  their  offers,  and  go  about  your  business  in  your  own 
way.  Never  in  all  our  journey  did  we  pass  a  house  w  here  the  people 
did  not  extend  a  cordial  welcome  and  urge  us  to  go  in;  and  hardly  a 
hut  thai  we  did  go  into,  but  the  best  place  was  cleared  out  for  us  ami 
our  belongings.  What  this  means  to  a  tired,  cold,  and  hungry  traveler 
can  not  be  fully  appreciated  save  by  those  who  have  experienced  it. 
and  my  former  good  impressions  of  the  Alaskan  Kskimowore  but 
intensified  by  this  winter's  journey.  All  that  we  ever  gave  in  ret  urn 
for  such  hospitality,  and  all  that  was  expected  was  a  cup  of  tea  and 
a  cracker  to  the  inmates  of  the  house  after  we  had  finished  our  meal. 

Fmm  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  on  we  had  been  treated  to  bright  auroral 
displays  almost  every  night .  They  generally  came  out  of  a  dark  bank 
that  would  form  in  the  northern  horizon  just  after  dark,  and  stretch 
in  long  shooting  st  reamers  that  grad  ually  worked  over  the  heavens  to 
1he  opposite  horizon,  waving  back   and  forth,  so  close  to  the  earth  as 


b'l] 


CiarisE    <)]■     THE    U.   S.    REVENl'E    CUTTER    BEAK. 


tit  lie  scciniiiLi'ly  w  it  liin  i  vac  h.  ami  then  as  ii'raduully  receded  and  sub- 
sided. I'sually  limy  came  in  ext  reinely  cold  weather  and  seemed  t:> 
I > resale  «'<>|(1  \\val  lie r  \'<>\-  t  he  following  day.  I  was  part  icularly  011  iho 
watch  losce  tlie  brillianl  colors  so  often  described,  hut  wasdisap- 
Hointed:  and,  while  they  lit  up  the  heavens  and  the  snow-co\erod 
earl  h.  I  ( -mii  Id  note  (inly  a  faint  orange  and  violet  color  in  the  displays, 
and  people  who  have  lived  in  the  count  ry  many  years  told  mot  hoy 
iie\  er  showed  more  color  t  han  we  saw.  so  1  concluded  t  hat .  on  t  his  coast 
at  least,  t  hex  were  seldom  more  than  streaks  of  oranii'e  1  iiiii'ed  liulit. 
[  >  u  i  ■  i  1 1  u'  the  coldest  days  l  here  were  numerous  sun-dous.  and.  sailop- 
!i  k(  .when  t  wo  and  often  Ihree  of  these  showed  in  t  he  sky.  I  ant  ici  paled 
had  and  sloriny  weather,  lint  it  never  came,  and  il  seemed  |  Iia1  li'ood 
weather  instead  o!'  had   followed   in  these  regions. 

()n  1  he  in<  >rnim_r  of  1  he  l'mi  h  we  pulled  u  p  at  1  he  house  of  Mr.  Nelson, 
manager  of  Inches  it  ( 'o."s  t  radiim'  a  ml  whaling  stai  ion  al  l'oinl  I  lope. 
Mr.  Nelson  was  away  farther  down  ilie  l'oinl.  and  il  was  reporled 
that  a  man  had  just  come  from  l'oinl  Harrow.  Here  was  the  news  I 
expected  and  had  come  all  lids  way  to  obtain.  I  Mspatchinii' a  sled 
for  Mi'.  Nelson  and  Ned  Any,  the  man  who  had  come  from  Point 
Harrow,  l  hey  soon  ret  urned  lo  the  house,  want  i ne;  to  see  I  he  men  who 
had  come  into  thai  country  in  the  winter.  Il  was  more  than  tlmx 
con  Id  at  lirsl  reali/e.  and  we  were  as  much  object  s  of  eiirio-.ii  y  here  as 
at  t  he  <»t  her  places  on  o  in'  route.  .Vre\  had  arri\  ed  from  Point  I  Jar- 
row  t  he  day  bel'o  re.  ami  had  been  more  t  ha  1 1  a  inont  h  on  i  he  w  ay.  ha  v- 
inulefi  1  here  .lanuan  !  v.  1  le  descri !  »<  ■<  [  i  he  sji  nal  ion  al  thai  lime  as 
bad.  but  as  yet  mil  serious.  Provisions,  of  r,  nirse.  w  ere  wry  short . 
bill  l  here  was  enough  Hour,  bread.  I  on.  and  coffee  lo  keep  t  hem  veiuu' 
until  I  he  middle  of  May.  The  men  had  been  kepi  toilet  her  and  piv- 
veni  ed  from  si  ray  i  ni:'.  Three  deal  lis  w  eiv  reported  -  one  from  dn  »psy 
ami  i  wo  from  freezing'.  Sciirvx  was  feared  and  had  already  made  its 
appearance  on  the  /;,,-,  </,,■,  .  Providentially,  there  had  conn-  into 
I  he  surrounding  coiinl  >■}  la  rue  n  urn  iters  of  wild  deer,  or  cari  itoii.  and 
nal  i  \  e  hum  ers.  w  ho  had  been  sen  I  out  early  i  i:  the  winter,  had  ki  lied 
and  sent  in  ei  i  on  id  i  meal  I  o  keep  i  he  cmwd  u'oiim.  w  it  h  I  he  stores  t  hey 
a  I  read \  had.  Mr.  (',  I  >.  1 5 row  ej-  had  u'iven  up  his  slock  of  provisions 
and  w  as  mniiULnne,'  l  he  people  ashore,  and  hoped  loevl  eiioiie.li  meal 
from  i  he  soi-i  im  I i  n  ni  i  n u'  1  o  keep  act  mil  slarval  ion  from  set  i  inn  in.  I 
fep  relieved  io  learn  things  had  "one  so  well  Mills  far.  and  I  could 
mow    turn   back  lo  the  t\i-fv  herd  to  fun  her  its  progress. 

!    had    decided    in  Mini    Sur.u'eon  Call  on  to    l'oinl     Harrow    in  lei   I  he 

|  ieo|  lie     1  here     k  I  low     .  il'  oil  I"  colli  i  tl.Li".    a  IM  I     oil     1  lie     nielli    of     1  he     l' j  si     was 

"'■epared  io  l(.;i\r  lhenexl  morn  i  im'  I  or  Kolzebue  Sound  and  there 
awan  l.op|i"s  coinine.  when  a  messenger  arrived,  brinuiim  a  letter 
■i  him.  s  i ;  1 1  i  i  ]  if  ihal  he  had  arrived  al  Anyok.  on  Cape  Kru/.en- 
si  em.  ('!i  'he  morn  i  n  u'  of  the  I  si  h,  afl  er  a  terrible  jour  nex  across  1  he 
ice  fiom  (   ape    I-'.- 1  „.)|  here.       lie   had    not    received  mv    Idler  at   ToaUlt. 


CRUISE    OF    THE     I".  S.    KEVKM'E    Cl'TTEK     HEAR. 


G7 


advising  1 1 1 iii  m>t  in  make  the  attempt.  They  lia<l  crossed  when-  I 
thoughl  il  would  be  i  mpossible.  ami  had  a  hard  experience,  bin  they 
saved  a  distance  of  lao  miles  and  probably  two  weeks  in  doing  il.  I 
was  greatly  relieved  and  overjoyed  al  this  news:  our  plans  were  mov- 
ing on  to  success,  and  I  can  not  speak  too  highly  of  Loop  ami  his  boys 
for  the  courage,  fort  it  ude.  and  skill  t  hey  showed  in  making  1  hat  awful 
t  rip  successfully.  They  had  arrived  at  Toatul  short  ly  after  we  let'1 
there,  ami  deterinined  to  risk  themselves  and  the  <\t-i'i  by  crossing'  on 
the  ice  rather  than  take  ten  days  or  two  weeks  to  go  around  by  land. 

After  t  raveling  all  day  and  well  into  t  lie  niidit .  they  camped  a  bo  ul 
In  miles  from  the  land  on  the  north  side,  but  during  the  nighl  the 
deer  wandered  oil',  and  t  lie  next  morning  were  found  many  miles  back 
on  the  t  rail  they  had  jus1  conic  over,  making  their  way  to  where  t  hey 
knew  was  W-t-d.  The  buys  rounded  them  up  and  started  again  for 
( 'ape  K  ru/.eiisi  e rn.  and  t  raveled  all  thai  day  and  night  until  daybreak 
the  next  morning  before  ma  king  the  land.  Deer  and  men  were  in  the 
same  condition,  alniosl  dead  from  hunger  and  fatigue.  Six  sled  deer 
had  become  exhausted  and  were  left  on  the  ice,  bin  the  remainder 
had  been  brought  safely  river,  and  with  the  good  moss  found  in  the 
vicinity  and  a  rest,  they  would  soon  be  in  good  condition  again. 

(rathering  some  further  supplies  for  them.  1  started  down  the  coast 
on  February -4,  together  with  Xelson,  to  meet  them  at  the  Kivalena 
River.  That  nighl  we  camped  at  Cape  Seppings,  ami  the  next  day 
kept  on  to  the  Kivalena  River.  It  grew  much  milder  toward  nighl 
and  soon  it  snowed,  as  il  always  does  with  mild  weathei  in  the  win- 
ter, ami  we  were  very  glad  to  make  a  small  native  lint  in  the  brush. 
The  next  day  it  was  snowing  so  fiercely  that  no  one  dared  vent  are  from 
the  house  for  fear  of  getting  lost.  I  was  fearful  lest  I  should  miss  the 
deer  herd,  but  experience  and  patience  are  the  chief  virtues  in  this 
country,  and  one  has  to  be  content   with  the  conditions  found. 

Ft  hi-nii ,■//  .'>:.  —  The  snow  let  up  enough  this  morning  for  us  to  find 
the  hut  where  1  planned  to  meet  Lopp.  This  was  a  deep,  wide  valley 
among  t  he  mount  a  i  ns.  and  winding  our  way  along  t  he  Kivalena  River, 
we  finally  came  to  the  place  we  were  hunting  for.  but  hardly  had  we 
got  started  making  our  cam])  when  a  native  boy  came  running  up. 
saying  he  had  seen  the  deer.  Sending  our  guide  back  with  the  boy. 
they  found  the  herd  and  soon  returned  to  our  camp  with  Mr.  Lop]). 
He  showed  the  marks  of  frozen  cheeks  and  nose  thai  all  his  party  had 
gotten  in  their  hard  trip  over  the  ice  of  Kotzebue  Sound.  lie  was 
thankful  that  was  over  and  the  deer  safely  on  this  side  of  the  Sound: 
and  after  carefully  considering  the  features  of  the  country,  we  eon- 
eluded  thai  it  would  be  wisest  for  the  herd  to  go  up  the  Kivalena 
River  and  then  cross  the  mountains  to  the  headwaters  of  the  1'it- 
megea  River  on  the  north  side.  This  was  tin1  last  great  trial,  to  get 
the  >\<-i-y  on  the  north  side  of  these  mountains,  and  had  caused  us 
much    anxietv   and    stud  v.      We    had    canvassed    and    discussed    with 


6* 


CHUISK  OF  THE 


KE VENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


natives  and  whiles  all  the  mutes  from  the  Xoatuk  to  the  I  k  pik  punii. 
the  <  )ot<»(  >kok.  and  t  he  Kookpownuk,  and  finally  aft  er  lonii  considora- 
limi  and  in  1  he  lijiht  of  our  own  experiences  1  hus  far.  eoneludod  t  he 
shortest  route  away  from  shore  was  the  best,  and  thai  the  closer  we 
kept  to  the  coast  the  safer  not  only  would  the  deer  he  hut  also  the 
men.  Lopp  had  coinniunieated  with  Lieutenant  IJertholf  at  Kikik- 
taruk.  and  had  la  ken  h  is  supplies.  IJertholf  had  come  up  alon^  1  he 
coast   with  hi  in  until  t  heir  mules  divided,  t  he  day  before. 

Lehman  _s  a  nd  March  1  I  spent  i  u  cam  p  wit  h  t  he  deer  herd.  The 
soli  weather  brought  lots  of  snow  ami  a  southeast  u'alo,  and  all  we 
could  do  was  to  stay  inside  the  tent  and  try  to  keep  dry  ami  comfort- 
able: but  al  best  it  was  very  tryinii'.  for  time  was  flying,  and  we 
were  anxious  to  i>'e1  the  herd  to  its  (lest  i  nation  before  1  lie  fawns  bep.au 
to  make  their  appearance.  We  had  been  nearly  four  weeks  moving 
the  herd  thus  far  and  had  fully  b  »< I  miles  more  of  t  ravel  a.uainst  the 
nort  hea  si  wind  1  hat  uenerally  pre  vails  in  1  his  part  of  l  he  con  nl  ry  d  ur- 
iim'  the  winter,  and  only  this  month  of  .March  to  do  it  in.  and  could 
afford  In  lose  no  I  i  me. 

Mnrrji  >.  it  was  clear  this  morning,  so  we  dim  our  lent  and  sleds 
out  of  the  snow  and  prepared  to  star).  Lopp  and  the  herd  up  the 
Kivalena  River,  and  I  around  the  coast  to  l'oint  Hope  to  meet  IJerl 
holt'  and  ('all.  ami  then  to  follow  on  up  the  coast  past  Lisburne, 
ami  meet  Lopp  as  he  came  out  on  the  north  coast  at  the  mouth  of  the 
I'd  meju'ea  River.  IJefore  we  could  start  two  of  our  dous  li'ol  adrift 
and  into  the  herd  and  slarted  them  oil'  We  tried  al  lii">l  loshoot  the 
flop's,  but  had  I  o  st  op  for  fear  of  hit  1  inii'  1  he  deer  i  list  cad.  After  racing 
around  in  a  circle  a  few  limes  l  he  herd  look  off  in  one  body  for  a 
mount  ai  n.  about  ~>  miles  a  way.  Three  of  the  boys  started  a  Her  I  hem. 
and  as  l  he  do^s  soon  tired  of  run  in  nu'  in  1  he  deep  snow  and  abandoned 
Hie  chase,  1  he  boys  cauu'ht  the  herd  and  drove  it  back,  but  not  before 
two  deer  (cows)  were  so  badly  injured  thai  they  had  to  be  killed. 
They  both  had  prospect  ive  fawns,  so  we  really  losl  four  animals  by  t  his 
bad  job  of  thedoejs.  That  iiiii'hl  I  reached  Cape  Seppini>s  and  found 
IJertholf,  he  having'  been  stalled  there  by  the  storm,  and  hearing  we 
had  passed  down  the  coast   had  waited   for  us. 

Miirrh-l.  We  arrived  aii'ain  to-day  at  Nelsons  house  al  l'oint  Hope, 
having  been  v,'one  eiii'hl  days  on  the  back  track.  As  I  had  laid  out  our 
journey  to  l'oint  Harrow,  we  had  li'one  now  aboul  ihree-fourl  lis  of  the 
distance.  So  far  we  had  been  successful  and  il  remained  to  prepare 
well  for  i  his  last  quarter  of  the  journey,  for  il  was  in  be  I  he  hardesl 
of  all.  as  well  as  Hie  most  lonely.  After  leaving  l'oint  Hope  I  here 
were  iM  i  \  illnti'es  a  nl  i  1  l'oint  belcher  was  reached,  ."ill!  i  miles  a  way,  and 
w  e  in  us!  depend  upon  what  we  carried  with  us  for  both  men  and  do^'s. 
Aii'ain.  I  here  w  ere  the  people  at  l'oint  I  Jar  row  to  consider  and  l  he  object 
of  our  mission.  There  were  ample  stores  al  l'oint  Hope  that  could  be 
spa  red   for  '. ' " '  men.  and  our  orders  content  pint  cd  sending  some  of  the 

sll  ipW  reeked    men    here. 


.-.    FROVi    Pi     '.  "     i-    >PE    '■    ^-.-'-  --E. 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAK. 


G9 


If  the  provisions  at  Point  Uarmw  ran  ou1  in  May.  as  we  had  been 
informed  by  Arey  would  probably  l><?  the  case,  ii  would  never  do  to 
keep  :joo  men  there  unlil  Augusl  with  plenty  of  stores  al  Point  Hope. 
Looking  a1  it  from  this  point  and  from  this  end  of  the  route.  I  decided 
that  upon  arriving  a!  l'oinl  Harrow  I  would  send  1  Of)  men  down  from 
t  here  to  Point  Hope,  and  that  I  would  leave  Lieutenant  Bert  hoi  f  at 
the  latter  place  to  take  care  of  them  as  they  en  me  down.  They  would 
have  to  travel  a  distanee  of  about  too  miles  and  it  would  be  a  severe 
journey,  as  it  must  all  he  made  on  foot,  and  provisions  earned  or 
dragged  on  sleds  the  whole  distance.  With  a  view  to  relieving  them 
at  this  end  and  reducing  1  he  amount  of  provisions  to  be  carried  from 
Point  Barrow.  Lieutenant  Bertholf  was  instructed  to  transporl  and 
place  about  5oo  pounds  of  Hour,  tea,  bread,  etc.,  a1  the  mouth  of  the 
Pitmegea  River,  nearly  loo  miles  up  the  coast.  I  designed  thai  the 
men  should  lie  started  in  parties  of  ten.  with  a  leader,  and  provisions 
enough  to  last  to  the  Pitmegea  River. 

The  prevailing  wind  was  northeast,  and  in  the  spring  tin?  weather 
would  be  warm  enough  to  prevenl  any  danger  of  freezing,  and  the 
wind  would  heat  their  backs.  If  it  were  jiossible  tc  supply  the  men 
with  proper  fool  gear,  there  would  be  no  great  difficulty  in  carrying 
out  this  arrangement,  though  there  was  a  possibility  of  some  of  the 
men  playing  out  on  the  road.  Still  it  appeared  to  be  better  to  run 
this  risk  than  to  have  them  all  remain  at  one  place  without  sufficient 
food,  with  the  consequent  starvation  and  disorder. 

Within  the  pasl  ten  years  knowledge  of  how  to  distill  spirituous 
liquor  in  a  crude  way.  from  Hour  and  molasses  or  sugar  has  spread  all 
over  this  coast  and  has  worked  incalculable  harm  to  the  natives,  caus- 
ing great  dest  itution  and  at  times  even  murder.  The  natives  al  Point 
Hope  were  1  he  first  to  learn  this  from  white  men.  and  it  has  been  car- 
ried on  there  to  a  greater  extern  than  anywhere  else  on  the  coast. 
Recent  ly  several  willful  murders  had  been  committed,  one  in  particu- 
lar, that  of  a  native  named  "Washok,  by  two  others.  Avulik  and  >  u.g- 
unera.  and  Lieutenant  Bertholf  was  inst  ructed  to  give  his  attention  to 
these  matters  during  Ids  stay  and  take  such  measures  as  he  could 
to  break  up  the  distilling  and  to  arrest  the  murderers. 

It  was  difficult  to  secure  a  man  and  his  wife  to  accompany  us  on  the 
.journey  to  Point  Barrow,  for  none  wanted  to  go  into  what  seemed  a 
starvation  camp,  even  though  I  promised  to  send  them  back  to  Point 
Hope  immediately.  I  was  persuaded  by  others  thai  a  woman  was 
necessary  to  look  oul  for  our  dollies,  but  it'  I  had  the  journey  to  do 
over  again  I  would  never  lake  a  woman  when  I  could  gel  a  half-grown 
boy  or  a  man.  for  women  are  nol  so  strong  and  can  not  stand  con- 
t  inuous  t  ravel  like  ;i  man. 

We  had  now  come  so  great  a  distance  that,  while  we  were  sonie- 
whal  hardened  to  the  work,  we  had  been  al  it  so  long  we  were  neces- 
sarily tired,  and  could  not  stand  running  ahead,  of  the  dogs  all  the 
time  as  had   to  be  done   in   this  pari   of  the  country.      Through    .Mr. 


(• 


cri'Isk   of   thk    r.  -    i;i:vi;\rK   <  ittf.i;    hkaw. 


Nelson  I  linally  eiie;au'cd  ,i  n  i  i'  i<  1 1<  --a  u<  ■«  I  man  and  wife,  who  had  lived 
at  Point  Harrow  several  years.  They  had  1 1 < •  \  •  •  i-  been  over  the  road 
\\c  wci'i'  to  I  ravel.  l)Ul  we  could  follow  the  coast  and  I  wauled  tlleni 
more  to  help  with  the  sleds  than  for  any  particular  guidance.  Nek- 
owrali,  the  man.  while  not  a  Lfood  traveler,  was  the  besl  man  around 
a  camp  I  I'Vcr  saw.  and  his  judgment  and  foresight  in  these  matters 
saved  us  iiiiieh  discomfort,  it'noi  sutlerine;.  It  is  characterist  ic  nf  t  he 
natives  of  tlie  extreme  north  thai  they  have  an  excellent  knowledge 
of  how  in  [ire  pa  re  for  and  wit  list  and  the  rigors  of  the  climate,  Thev 
seem  to  have  no  fears  of  it .  I  ml  al  the  same  t  i  me  are  fully  alive  1  o  its 
i  lanu'ers  and   menaces. 

We  u'ol  oil'  mi  the  inorni  mr  of  Mai'idi  ii.  with  two  sleds,  and  Mi'. 
Nelson  came  a  Ion  y  wit  h  one  exl  ra  sled  that  was  to  haul  doy  feed  a  part 
of  lhew,-i\  and  ii'ive  us  a  u'ood  start  on  the  road.  We  made  a  unod 
day's  run  out .  but  wit h  our  loaded  teams  ii  was  late  al  niu'ht  before  we 
reaehed  a  lit  l  le  -'iilly  I  >\  ( 'ape  Dyer,  where  we  could  find  wood  for  our 
camp. 

}[<ir<-'h  ;.  —  It  blew  hard  from  the  uortheasl  to-day.  and  1  he  ice  was 
out  from  the  shore  alone;  to  (  ape  Lisburne.  At  some  places  w  e  wei-e 
compelled  to  ma  ice  portages  across  the  land  and  at  ol  hers  to  mil  roads 
through  la  rev  drifts,  t  hat  ran  from  hiu'h  upon  the  mountains  down 
into  the  water  al  an  an.u'lc  of  no  to  71 '  decrees,  and.  in  eon>e<pience. 
progress  was  slow  and  tedious.  We  had  hoped  to  round  ('ape  Us 
Imi  rue.  but  arrivine;  near  t  here  found  I  he  wi  nd  how!  iny  over  the  eli  [\^_ 
sending' showers  of  small  rocks  ami  bowlders  to  the  ice  below.  This 
was  a  notorious  wind  hole,  summer  and  winter,  and  when  Mr.  Tilton 
came  around  ii  on  his  way  from  ihe  north  ihe  wind  look  the  piece  of 
ice  he  wa--  on  oin  in  the  open  water,  and  he  was  three  days  Li'cttinii' 
ashore.  It  was  so  black  and  1 1 1 i < - k  about  the  cape  thai  we  dared  not 
try  it.  and  concluded  to  wail  ami  see  what   the  next  day  would  brine.-. 

}[ii,-'-/i  s,  -The  wind  had  u'one  down  durinu'  the  niyhl  so  that  this 
morn  inc.'  we  yoi  around  to  the  north  side  of  the  cape  to  Wevuk.  where 
two  ii  at  ive  fa  mi  lies  wo  re  cam  ped.  hunt  ine;  seals  and  polar  bears.  Here 
we  loaded  up  t  he  exl  ra  sled  with  doe;  feed  for  the  rest  of  our  journey. 
I'pon  t  el  liny  one  of  the  natives.  Sakavaichik.  what  we  wante<l.  he 
simply  told  lis  to  v/o  into  Ids  ice  house  and  help  ourselves.  No  price 
was  asked  :  no  si  ipulat  ion  made.  I  le  saw  what  our  needs  were,  and,  so 
far  as  ho  was  able,  or  as  much  as  he  had.  he  would  help  us  uladly.  Il 
is  refreshing  in  iiieel  such  simple.  I  ruediearted  people  in  lime  of 
need,  and  to  ha  ve  dealings  wit  h  t  hem,  even  if  1  hey  a  re  only  Kski  nms. 

M'i  f'-h  '■'.  —  We  were  off  ayai  n  in  the  inorni  im.  with  loaded  leanis  and 
-fed  doe;s,  for  the  lony  journey  ahead  of  us.  Soiit  h  of  this  point, 
at  I  i  uies  d urine;  1  he  winter,  come  periods  of  so t'l  weal  her.  t  hal  amount 
alii  osi  io  a  'haw.  but  from  here  north,  rarely  does  the  thermometer 
u'ei  as  hii;||  as  /ero  d  ii  ri  ny  thai  time.  Kveryt  hinu'  is  fro/en  hard  and 
solid  ami  remains  in  thai  condition  until  I  he  summer.      The  uortheasl 


cruise  (>]•'  the  r.  s.  ke venue  cutter  bf.au. 


71 


wind  blows  during  1  he  winter  like  a  t  rade  wind,  and  against  tliis  wo 
had  to  (igh1  our  way  most  of  1  lie  distance  to  Point  Harrow.  The  snow 
is  usually  packed  hard  by  the  wind,  and  we  were  told  we  would  find  a 
good  road  for  traveling.  for  a  part  of  this  day  it  was:  but  not  long 
after  leaving  Cape  Lisburne  there  came  a  line,  lighl  snow  fall,  will) 
not  enough  wind  to  blow  it  away,  ami.  as  the  snow  increased,  our 
promised  good  road  turned  to  a  very  bad  one,  and  we  were  toiling 
again.  However,  we  made  nearly-'}"  miles  during  the  day  and  felt 
quite  sat  islied.  At  night  we  camped  al  the  side  of  a  house  that  was 
built  some  years  ago  to  develop  the  Corwin  coal  mine.  There 
remained  now  only  the  floor  and  one  side,  the  resl  having  been 
burned  by  natives  traveling  by.  We  did  the  same  as  they,  and  were 
glad  to  gel  some  good  dry  wood. 

March  l'i.  —  We  now  began  In  strike  soft  snow  and  rough  ice.  In 
some  places  where  the  snow  lay  in  hollows  our  sleds  ami  dogs  would 
sink  almost  out  of  sight:  and  at  others,  around  the  bluffs,  we  had  to 
stop  to  cut  off  the  corners  of  the  rough  ice,  fill  up  the  hollows,  and 
make  our  own  road.  It  was  hard  work,  and  it  was  not  until  about  '■'> 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  that  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pitmegea 
Hiver.  where  we  had  planned  to  meet  Lopp.  We  looked  anxiously 
around  for  some  sign  of  the  (leer  herd,  and  saw  sticking  in  the  snow 
across  made  of  two  pieces  of  bread  box,  which  our  natives  immedi- 
ately recognized  as  the  work  of  a  white  man.  Such  it  proved  to  be, 
and  was  tin1  message  Lopp  had  left  for  me  according  to  oil  r  agreement. 
"Letter  between  boards"  was  what  the  sign  read  on  the  outside. 
Hast  ily  tearing  ii  apart.  I  found  his  note.  He  had  arrived  hereon 
the  7th.  having  been  six  days  crossing  the  mountains:  the  sled  dn'}' 
were  nearly  played  out,  but  the  herd  was  all  right,  and  after  one  day's 
rest  lie  had  gone  on  the  day  before  we  arrived.  The  last  greal  obsta- 
cle had  been  overcome;  and  though  the  cold,  strong  winds  were  hard 
to  lace  it  was  now  a  straight  drive  over  a  level  country,  and  it  seemed 
we  surely  musl  arrive  at  Point  Harrow  before  the  month  was  out. 
Human  nature  could  not  accomplish  more  than  had  been  done.  so. 
pushing  on  until  nightfall,  we  went  Into  camp,  feeling  we  had  things 
well  in  hand  to  go  to  the  end  of  the  journey. 

March  11.  —Loading  all  our  out  lit  s  and  the  dog  feed  on  t  wo  sleds.  I 
sent  the  ext  ra  sled  back  to  Poi  nt  I  lope.  It  was  all  our  dogs  con  Id  do 
to  drag  1  heir  increased  loads,  and  in  the  afternoon  all  the  animals  had 
in  be  put  on  one  sled  al  a  lime  to  drag  them  through  the  deep  drifts. 
We  wore  making  poor  progress,  but  we  wore  at  least  going;  ahead  all 
the  time,  and  that  was  something.  I  was  anxious  to  catch  up  with 
the  deer  herd,  but  so  lonn'  as  they  were  ahead  I  did  not  care  much. 
Lighl    miles  was  all  we  made  after  a  most   laborious  day's  work. 

M'irr/i  1 .'.  -The  storm  still  continued,  and  the  smooth,  level  road 
was  now-  covered  with  ii  inches  of  soft .  line  snow,  and  though  our  prog- 
ress was  still  slow,  vet    it  was   more  satisfactorv  than  the  dav  before. 


el 


<   IM'ISK    OF    THE    I".   S.  RHVEXUK    CUTTEK     liKAR. 


\\  night  we  came  In  1  lie  el  id  of  the  moll  Ml  a  ins.  where  we  con  Id  expect 
more  wi  in]  and  ;i  I  teller  road,  and  we  made  our  camp  in  t  lie  same  place 
that  Lopp  had  made  his  1  he  night  before.  I  fell  eoiilidenl  of  catch- 
ing him  in  a  day  or  two;  1  >u  1  our  loads  were  heavy,  and  we  could  not 
afford  to  work  our  dogs  too  hard  on  1  he  slaH  and  risk  playing  them 
out. 

Mnrr/i  /.;.  -We  got  off  early  this  morning  and  toiled  along"  first  on 
the  ice  and  then  on  the  land:  ImiI  there  seemed  to  he  no  improvement 
in  the  travel  anywhere.  The  thermometer  varied  from  I . J  to  .'id 
below  zero,  yet  in  an  hour  after  breaking  camp  we  were  wet  through 
witli  perspiration,  and  had  to  be  moving1  until  we  camped  at  night  to 
keep  from  freezing,  for  it  is  almost  fatal  to  slop  with  wet  clothes. 
Our  bodies  had  by  1  his  time  accommodated  1  he  nisei  ves  to  the  at  mos- 
phere.  In  the  first  part  of  our  journey  +1'1  seemed  cold  and  sharp, 
lull  gradually  a  lower  t em pe rat  u re  suited  us  better,  ami  now  anyt  hing 
above  —  -' '  was  altogether  too  warm  to  work  in.  Now  we  went  about 
and  worked  with  our  bare  hands  with  impunity,  and  our  endeavors 
were  to  no1  wear  too  many  clot  lies,  yet  still  have  enough  on  to  keep 
us  warm  in  case  we  had  to  stop  any  length  of  time.  This  afternoon 
we  passed,  t  he  deer  camp  of  the  night  before  and  gained  some  distance 
on  them,  and  I  fell  it  was  well  they  were  ahead  and  within  reach  at 
any  time,  and  we  could  follow  their  tracks  and  not  be  far  separated. 
If  we  got  to  Point  Harrow  at  all,  we  must  get  there  wit  h  some!  hing  to 
eat,  not  only  for  ourselves,  but  for  the  people  there,  or  the  expedition 
would  fail  of  its  primary  object — to  feol  the  hungry. 

Mart-It  /./.-— We  now  came  to  the  lagoon  thai  stretches  along  this 
eoasl  for  a  distance  of  more  than  1(H)  miles,  about  •">  to  l(l  miles  wide, 
and  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  narrow  sand  spit  with  four  openings 
in  the  entire  length.  Three  large  rivers  empty  into  the  lagoon  south 
of  Ic\  Cape.  About  la  miles  below  Point  Lay  is  the  mouth  of  Kook- 
powruk.  a  large  stream  nearly  1<><)  miles  long.  Its  source  is  to  the 
south  of  the  Meade  River  .Mountains,  and  it  runs  in  a  general  north- 
easterly direct  ion.  The  Kokolik.  the  shortest  of  the  three,  rises  on 
the  north  side  of  the  mountains,  its  mouth  being  just  back  of  Point 
Lay.  The  largest  and  farthest  north  is  the  Ootookok.  Its  head 
w  at  e rs  are  near  a  branch  of  t  he  X oat  ok  and  almost  direct  ly  soul  h  of 
ley  ('ape.  and  its  mouth  is  in  the  lagoon,  about  la  miles  south  of 
the  cape.  Ilefore  the  wild  deer  were  driven  from  this  [tart  of  the 
country  there  were  large  settlements  on  these  rivers,  and  the  natives 
from  Kotzebue  Sound  often  made  the  passage  Up  the  Xoatok  and 
down  the  Oolookok  in  1  he  spring,  to  trade  with  the  people  on  the 
in  >rt  hem  coast  . 

AhuiL!  the  shores  of  the  lagoon,  near  the  mouths  of  the  rivers,  the 
land  i-  marshy  and  low.  gradually  rising  to  rolling  hills  until  the 
M^ade  River  Mountains  are  reached.  The  southern  part  of  1  he 
lauoon  iv  ^hallow  and   tilled  with  liars,   but   the    northern  half   is  wider 


\ 

\ 


i 


?-"•  (« 


*sfi*     ■♦' 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE    U.  S.  REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAR.  73 

and  has  depths  of  3  fathoms  in  places,  and  through  the  two  openings 
from  S  to  lo  feet  can  be  carried.  There  are  only  a  few  small  streams 
emptying  into  the  northern  half,  and  the  land  back  of  the  lagoon  is 
generally  higher  than  along  the  southern  half.  The  deer  had  to  pass 
along  the  inshore  of  these  lagoons  for  feed,  and  we  followed  their 
trail;  but  the  line,  drifting  snow  winch  (died  the  air  prevented  our 
seeing  any  great  distance  ahead,  and  the  wind,  which  had  now  full 
sweep,  was  biting  and  sharp.  This  night  we  camped  on  the  inshore 
side  of  the  lagoon,  beside  an  old  abandoned  lint.  It  had  been  a  beau- 
tiful day,  as  days  go  in  the  arctic  region,  and  we  had  made  good 
progress.  I  had  intended  going  on  during  the  night  and  catching  up 
with  Lopp  and  the  deer  herd;  but  the  doctor's  team  was  pretty  well 
tired  and  did  not  work  well,  and  besides  we  had  heavy  loads  and  not 
a  very  good  trail.  At  the  lime  I  decided  to  camp  the  doctor  was  far 
behind,  and  I  feared  we  might  lose  one  another  if  we  tried  to  keep 
on  during  the  night. 

JfrircJi  15. — Our  dreams  of  catching  up  with  the  deer  herd  were  gone 
this  morning,  for  the  wind  had  increased  during  the  night,  and  by 
the  time  we  awoke  was  blowing  a  gale,  a  howling  blizzard  from  the 
north,  lilling  the  air  with  quantities  of  fine,  hard  snow  that  cut,  like  a 
knife  and  hid  everything  from  sight,  even  a  few  feet  away.  It  was 
all  we  could  do  to  keep  the  tent  from  blowing  down,  so  we  cut  blocks 
of  snow  and  built  a  barricade  around  our  camp  that  kept  off  some  of 
the  wind,  but  still  it  was  anything  but  comfortable,  and  as  the  old 
native  hut  was  filled  with  hard,  packed  snow  and  we  could  not  get 
in  there,  and  we  had  to  finally  tear  off  its  covering  of  wood  to  get 
enough  to  keep  our  fire  going.  I  afterwards  learned  that  during  this 
blizzard  Lopp  was  compelled  to  move  his  camp.  How  such  things 
are  done  at  such  times  none  can  tell  but  those  who  do  them,  and  too 
often  tin1  experiences  are  so  terrible  that  the  desire  is  to  forget  about 
them  when  they  have  passed.  When  we  caught  up  with  the  deer  herd 
later,  all  the  party  showed  the  effects  of  their  work  this  day.  in  the 
masses  of  black  skin  on  their  faces  and  noses  where  they  had  been 
frozen  while  shifting  their  camp.  During  this  day  the  thermometer 
registered — h)0  to  —  -45°,  which  is  unusually  low  with  so  much  wind. 

JIarcli  in. — Though  the  temperature  moderated  somewhat  to-day, 
the  wind  blew  as  hard  as  ever,  and  we  could  only  remain  where  we 
were  until  the  blizzard  had  spent  its  force.  We  had  been  warned  con- 
cerning the  blizzards  on  this  coast,  and  T  had  heard  many  stories  of 
the  terrible  times  of  parties  who  had  been  caught  in  these  storms. 
One  party  I  knew  of  had  been  storm-bound  for  forty-two  days  at  a 
place  but  a  tew  miles  from  where  we  now  were,  and  were  compelled 
to  eat  their  dogs  before  the  storm  passed  over.  We  had  never  allowed 
the  darker  side  of  1  he  stories  we  had  heard  to  t  rouble  us,  except  so  far 
as  to  make  our  preparations  more  complete,  yet  often  during  our  long 
fight  up  this  coast  if  one  had  dared  lei  down  we  might  have  been  left 


74      cHrisK  of  the  r.s,  i;kvkxi'k  ctttei;  beak. 

Somewhere  nil    1  ]  1 1  ■    road.        The   'lecl'    licl'il    We    knew    could    be     lull   H   few 

miles  from  us.  yei  ii  miuht  just  as  well  have  been  a  hundred  for  all 
llicu'iind  ii  did  us  in  this  blizzard.  Our  supply  of  doy  feed  had  been 
"Tnwiiii;'  less  all  the  time,  and  duriny  1  hex-  days  of  idleness  we  were 
obliged  to  lei  t  he  poor  a  u  i  ma  Is  yi  ,  unfed.  We  st  ill  had  a  In ny  distance 
toyo.  and  natives,  as  a  rule,  do  not  t'ee<l  their  doys  except  when  work- 
ing, and  we  had  now  to  do  1  he  same.  A  lit  1  le  "  flour  soup  "  was  all 
they  yot  for  two  days,  and  in  consequence  beyan  to  ea1  everything  in 
the  shape  of  lashing  on  the  sleds,  in  fact,  everything  thai  was  not 
wood  or  metal.  Kskiim  doys  are  seldom  or  never  housed:  sometimes 
they  crawl  into  the  passage  of  the  huts,  but  yenerally  1  hey  remain 
out  in  the  open,  no  matter  what  the  temperature  or  the  condition  of 
the  weather.  In  travcliny.  the  tent  or  snow  house  is  securely  c;'<sed 
at  niyht  lesl  they  yet  inside  and  make  shorl  work  of  anything  they 
can  chew.  ( )u  r  clot  hes  cvci!  were  not  safe,  especially  the  boots,  and 
eve ry1  lbny  eatable  1  hat  could  not  be  kept  in  the  tent  had  to  be  raised 
hiyh  on  racks  or  on   blocks  of   snow   1o  keep  it   beyond  reach. 

'I'he  fa\  orite  way  aiming  1  he  Kskimos  of  cam  piny  in  this  part  of  the 
country  is  to  build  -now  houses  at  niyht.  The  wind  packs  the  snow 
>o  hard  thai  wit  h  a  hmy  knife  it  can  be  cul  into  blocks  like  huildinu 
stone,  and  in  a  short  time  a  small  strong  house  can  be  constructed 
with  these,  the  chinks  beiny  sio|»ped  up  with  loose  snow,  and  a  I  a  rye 
block  used  as  a  door  to  close  t  he  open  iny.  making  the  place  nearly  a ir- 

1  i, it'll '  .  Sou  n  the  war  I)  it  ll  of  1  he  bodies  of  three  or  four  people,  tnyel  her 
with  the  heal  from  a  native  seal-oil  lamp  or  kerosene-oil  stove,  will 
raise  t  he  t  etii  per  at  lire  of  the  place  so  thai  it  is  fairly  comfortable,  and 
one  can  even  remove  some  of  his  clnthiny.  (  Mi  account  of  the  difh- 
cull  ii-s  of  eousl  ruct  ion.  a  snow  house  can  iiol  be  so  la  rye  as  a  1  cut .  and 
1  he  oi  I  for  t  he  stove  adds  y really  In  t  he  weight  to  be  carried  :  but .  when 
traveling  back  from  the  coast,  where  there  is  no  wood,  -now  houses 
aie  1 1n-  necessity  of  circunislances.  As  such  they  are  made  the  best 
of.  and  whatever  nd  scorn  forts  1  hey  mil  ai  1  are  passed  \  iff  as  unavoidable 
and  not  thought  of.  A  philosophical  common  sense  is  a  ureal  help  in 
livinu  in  the  arctic  regions,  as  elsewhere.  If  you  are  subjected  to 
miserable  discomforts,  nr  even  if  you  suffer,  it  must  be  regarded  asall 
riyhi  and  -imply  a  part  of  the  life,  and    like  sailors,  you    must    never 

dwell  much  on  the  dangers  or  sufferiny.   lest  others  ipiestiou  your 

con  raye. 

M'i/''-l>  /,.  It  had  stormed  so  hard  duriny  the  niyht  that  we  were 
ueariy  buried  in  thedrifts  that  had  formed  and  we  had  to  diy  ourselves 
mil  in  'he  uiorni  ny.  Our  sleds  this  morn  iny  were  completely  buried, 
and  mol:  harness.  -hovels,  axe-,  and  the  like  had  to  be  duy  oiil  of  the 
drift-.      In    cainpinu   one    musl    be   careful    of   t  he  few  belonyi  nys  and 

ea  lilp  !  ool-.  for  a  UN  t  hin, U'  left  out  side  at  niyht  is  -lire  to  be  covered  o\  ci- 
in  t  he  morn  iny  if  it  i-  blowi  ny.  and  anyt  limy  t  hal  has  1  o  be  left  oul  musl 
be  stuck    up  :n  the  stiow    or    packed    iii    the  sled-  it'    vnii   want   to  see  it 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.  S.  REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAR.  75 

again.  We  had  now  been  traveling  so  long  that  our  camping  and 
packing  the  sleds  had  been  reduced  to  a  system.  There  were  four  of 
us  and  each  had  his  own  part  of  the  work  to  do.  The  doctor  was  the 
cook  and  looked  out  for  the  stove  and  the  food.  I  attended  to  the 
sleds  and  the  tent.  The  native  woman  was  the  doctor's  assistant  and 
besides  looked  after  our  clothes,  while  her  husband  Xekowrah  helped 
me  and  did  the  heavy  work.  On  coining  to  our  camping  place, 
Nekowrah  and  I  would  get  out  the  tent  and  pitch  it.  This  done,  the 
doctor  would  set  up  his  stove,  while  Xekowrah  went  on  a  hunt  for 
wood,  and  1  would  bank  up  the  snow  around  the  sides  to  keep  the  wind 
out  and  secure  the  hut  generally.  Then  the  sleds  were  unpacked  and 
all  our  sleeping  gear,  food,  and  cooking  utensils  were  passed  in  to 
Shucungunga,  who  arranged  them  inside.  By  the  time  the  fire  was 
stalled  in  the  stove,  the  dogs  were  unharnessed,  and  the  sleds  put 
beyond  their  reach.  This  would  all  take  from  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour,  and  in  that  time  the  tent  would  be  good  and 
warm  and  we  could  go  inside  and  change  our  clothes.  The  wet  ones 
were  passed  over  to  Shucungunga  for  drying,  who  stretched  a  line 
along  the  ridgepole  and  hung  up  the  clothes  to  catch  all  the  warm  air 
possible. 

It  was  not  long  before  supper  was  ready,  and  it  generally  mattered 
little  what  if  was,  so  long  as  there  was  enough,  for  by  this  time  Ave 
were  about  like  the  dogs,  hungry  enough  to  eat  anything  that  could 
be  chewed.  Usually  the  supper  consisted  of  bacon  and  beans,  followed 
by  ''slapjacks''  (cakes  made  of  flour  and  water  and  fried),  and  all  the 
lea  we  could  drink,  generally  not  less  than  a  quart.  Xekowrah  had  in 
the  meantime  got  together  enough  wood  for  the  night  and  morning, 
and  after  supper  and  a  smoke  it  was  time  to  feed  the  dogs.  The 
frozen  seal  meat  was  first  chopped  into  small  pieces,  and  Xekowrah 
and  myself,  armed  with  clubs,  would  undertake  to  see  that  all  the 
dogs  fared  alike.  It  was  a  task,  for  I  know  of  nothing  so  ravenous  as 
a  hard-worked  Eskimo  dog,  and  with  a  pack  of  fifteen  or  twenty  ani- 
mals it  took  all  of  our  time  and  attention  to  see  that  the  larger  dogs 
did  not  monopolize  all  the  food.  If  a  piece  of  meat  was  too  large  for 
a  dog  to  swallow  immediately,  another  dog  would  have  it  out  of  his 
mouth  and  a  general  tight  ensue,  and  then  a  liberal  use  of  the  clubs 
would  be  necessary  to  produce  harmony  in  the  pack.  Dogs  should  be 
i\'d  once  a  day,  and  best  at  night,  after  they  have  rested  a  while  from 
their  work.  It  is  bad  to  feed  them  much  in  the  morning  or  to  feed 
them  during  the  day,  as  they  become  heavy  and  loggy,  and  do  not 
work  so  well  as  on  an  empty  stomach.  The  dogs  being  fed,  there  was 
nothing  else  to  do  but  to  write  up  our  diaries  and  make  plans  for  the 
following  day. 

Shucungunga  had  been  attending  to  our  clothes,  turning  them  to 
see  that  they  Mere  thoroughly  dry  and  looking  for  rips  and  tears,  for 
after  each  day's  work  some  mending  was  generally  needed,  and  oft- 


kiisi;   of    mi:    r.  s.  u  i:\knui-:   (  tttei;    iskak. 


times  l  he  tire  w  as  kepi  n'oiii"'  well  into  t  ho  niuhl   !■>  i)<-  sure  every]  hnii'' 

was  dry  lor  ihe  mornim.:.  Sleeping  ban's  were  now  in  order  ami  all 
liamls  would  lie  ready  in  1  urn  in.  If  ihe  wealher  was  very  cold.  I 
slepl  in  a  liuhl  aiiouu'e.  lull  ordinarily  1  would  remove  my  mile!-  cloth- 
ing ami  turn  in  my  hau  in  thai  way  The  natives,  however,  no  mat- 
ter whai  i  he  lemperal  ure.  removed  all  their  (dollies  at'ler  nd  1  i  _ 
i  hep-  ban.  and  slept  with  only  1  lie  protection  of  the  sk  in  ban.  and  i  hi- 
if  eoiirse  had  ;i  lame  opening.  I  was  not  sufficient  1\  inured  o  the 
i  stand  this.  I'm  we  always  slepl  without  lire,  and  it  was  nearly 
i-  cold  inside  as  outside  the  tent  At'ler  net  t  inn'  in  my  ban  seldom 
liil  I  cvi'i'  sleep  eold.  and  less  seldom  do  I  remember  heme'  wakeful 
luri  rn  1  lie  niu'ht .  In  1  lie  morn  inn  Xekowrah  or  the  doctor  would  he 
up  by  -"i  o'clock  and  ha ve  the  fire  start ed  and  the  break  fasi  under  way. 
which  was  not  different   from  the  supper — -imply  soniethinn   to  eat, 

It  i>  always  well  before  slarlinn  in  the  niornin.n  to  take  as  much  tea 
and  water  as  one  can  hold,  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible  a  thirsl  dur- 
ing the  day.  It  is  impossible  to  uei  water  durinn  the  day  withoui 
stopping  to  build  a  tire  and  imdl  snow,  unless  one  carries  a  Mask 
inside  the  clothing,  and  this  stopping  uses  up  time.  Snow  is  bad 
for  ihe  mouth  and  soon  makes  it  sore,  besides  nol  beinn  siit'ticieiil 
to  (piemdi  the  Thirsl  except  for  t  he  niinuie.  The  wi  n-st  teat  ure  of  eat  - 
ism  snow  is  ihal  if  one  n'ives  way  to  the  temptation  there  is  no  stop- 
pi m:'  for  the  res!  of  t he  day.  for.  while  it  serves  i«»  ipieiieh  ihe  i 
for  the  time  beinn.  it  seems  to  really  increase  h  in  the  lone  run.  and 
shortly  alter  takinn  some  snow  one  is  inure  thirsty  than  ever  I 
found  ihal  by  drinking  a  ipiarl  of  tea  in  the  inorniiin  I  sehhmi  was 
thirsty  until  iiiuhi,  and  had  no  urea!  desire  to  drink  unless.  a  |iali  was 
made  in  the  middle  of  the  bay  to  rest  and  make  a  tire  for  tea. 

Breakfasl    beinn'  over,  the  sleds   were  notion  oll1    and    packed.   ivm'I'V- 

inn  i  he  ten  i  to  ihe  lasl.  so  as  to  be  hat  id  y  a  1  ninht.      The  nr  ub  box.  with 

a  lil  1  le  f 1  inside,  and  a  camp  kei  t  le  and  axe  were  plaeed  on  t  he  sled 

where  they  could  easily  be  potion  ai  in  case  a  slop  was  made  d 
the  day.  Tin-  sleds  were  then  lashed,  ihe  dons  eauniil  ami  har- 
nessed.  and  we  w  ere  ready  to  start .  1 1  in  the  middle  of  the  day  wood 
could  lie  had.  and  oilier  •irciiinsl  allocs  would  permil.  a  stop  was  made 
to  make  a  lite,  nieli  snow,  and  have  a  lunch  of  lea  and  crackers. 
Son  ict  i  nies.  however,  c  i  re  u  m  si  an  ces  would  nol  permil  us  1  o  stop,  ami 
ac  kepi  on  the  cut  i  re  day  wilhoin  a  break.  At  lirst  I  was  more  loat  h 
'o  slop  than  later,  but  after  more  experience  I  found  that  tin-  hour 
speni  in  net  l  inn  our  fire  and  a  bite  to  eal  was  well  speiil .  for  not  only 
a  ei-e  u  e  refresheil  and  better  able  to  continue  in  the  afternoon,  but 
t  he  do^'s  also  seemed    to   be   beueliled    by  i  he  short    rest    and    1  raveled 

le    bet  1  IT    for    il  . 

(>ii  'he  inoriiiim  of  March  17  we  found  the  dons  buried  :n  the 
drift,  with  otih  their  noses  stiokinn  out.  They  were  all  rinhi.  how- 
ever,   and    anxious   to   be   noiun.      We    worked    our   wavalonn   and    in 


CKl'ISE    OF    THE     I'.   S.   KEVEXl'E    CUTTEK    BEAU. 


77 


the  alt  ernoon  passed  two  hills  mi  the  inner  shore  of  the  lagoon.  Un- 
people from  which  came  oul  to  meet  us  ami  delivered  a  nole  from 
Lopp.  lie  had  passed  there  only  a  short  lime  before,  and  we  could 
now  sec  him  ahead.  like  a  small  black  cloud  sweeping  over  ihe  sea  of 
intense  while  snow.  The  unlives  who  occupied  these  huts  were  must 
miserably  poor.  The  wild  caribou  had  long  before  left  this  pari  of 
t  he  country,  and  t  hese  were  now  1  he  only  ones  left  of  a  once  numerous 
and  prosperous  people.  Those  who  had  not  died  had  gone  to  other 
part  s  of  the  count  rv  for  belter  hunt  ing  grounds.  These  1  wo  families 
\\e\'i'  now  living  on  a  si  ore  of  bad  walrus  meal  and  the  carcass  of  a 
whale  that  had  drifted  ashore  there  the  previous  fall.  We  continued 
on  until  dark,  then  making  a  camp  I  lightened  my  sled  and  went  on 
after  the  herd.  It  was  a  long  chase,  for  Lopp  was  traveling  late  to 
make  up  for  1  lie  time  they  had  lost  in  the  blizzard,  and  it  was  nol  until 
s  in  the  evening  that  1  caughl  up  with  them.  The  herd  was  going 
along  in  good  condition,  but  the  sled  deer  were  not.  While  the  feed 
alone,  this  portion  of  the  route  was  poor,  enough  was  found  to  keep 
life  in  the  herd.  All  the  boys  showed  marks  of  the  blizzard  of  the 
lath,  but  there  had  been  no  accidents  beyond  the  freezing  of  their 
faces. 

M<irr]i  IS. —  Last  ii  i  *i"  1 1 1  three  wolves  go  1  into  the  herd  and  killed  one 
deer  before  they  were  discovered  and  driven  off.  This  is  the  first 
time  we  have  encountered  wolves  or  seen  signs  of  them.  From  the 
carcass  1  replenished  my  stock  of  dog  \'<'c<\  and  went  back  to  our  camp 
on  the  sand  spit .  and  with  t  he  <  loci  or  followed  alon<i'  after  the  herd  and 
caughl  up  with  it  again  at  night.  The  weather  seemed  to  improve 
and  we  were  going  along  a1  a  very  good  rale,  and  must  have  1  raveled 
l'o  miles,  which  was  a  good  day's  journey  for  our  condition  and  for 
this  pari  of  1  lie  coun1  ry. 

M'lrrh  ]'■'.  -We  thoughl  our  blizzards  were  about  done  with,  but 
soon  found  thai  they  were  almost  of  daily  occurrence  and  we  must 
make  the  best  of  them,  and  the  most  of  what  time  we  could  travel  in 
between.  As  usual,  we  were  off  this  morning  as  soon  as  ii  was  light, 
but  after  going  half  a  day  the  wind  breezed  up  from  the  northeasl 
and  the  snow  began  to  fly,  blinding  us  so  theie  was  no  use  trying  to 
face  it.  and  we  had  to  camp  where  we  were.  We  had  to  dig  a  hole  in 
the  snow  and  build  a  barricade  around  it  before  we  could  pilch  our 
tent  iii  safety.  The  wind  lasted  ihe  rest  of  ihe  day  and  night  and 
until  noon  of  the  Joth,  when  ii  suddenly  let  go,  and  we  were  able  to 
make  half  a  day's  travel  before  night  again  shin  in.  and.  though  it 
was  nol  as  much  as  could  be  desired,  ii  all  counted  in  the  righl  direc- 
tion. The  sand  spits  were  so  low  and  so  hard  to  follow  we  dared  not 
go  on  al  night . 

March  il.  —  .More  snow  and  very  thick  this  morning,  but  we  made 
fair  travel  and  soon  passed  the  "•Thetis  beacon."  soul  h  of  Icy  Cape. 
On  the  back  of  1  his  I  left  a  note  for  Lopp  and  then  went  on  to  an  old 


78 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


abandoned  house  jusi  north  of  Blossom  Shoals,  where  we  had  planned 
to  nieel  and  make  our  final  arrangements  before  going  the  last  stretch 
1o  Point  Barrow.  We  had  been  looking  fortius  beacon  the  lasl  two 
days,  and  almost  every  twig  or  stick  1hat  stuck  up  through  the  snow 
stood  out  against  the  extreme  whiteness  of  the  surrounding  country 
and  seemed  exaggerated  into  the  size  of  a  telegraph  pole  at  least. 
This  is  a  striking  feature  of  the  uncertain  light  of  a  snowy  day  or  a 
moonlight  night.  Fvery  little  ridge  or  unevennoss  in  the  snow  seems 
at  first  a  hill  or  mountain  in  your  path,  ami  it  is  not  until  you  get 
very  close  to  1  he  rise  1  hat  you  are  finally  convinced  of  your  error.  It 
snowed  hard  during  the  night  after  we  had  reached  the  old  house  and 
all  the  next  day,  and  there  was  no  finding  anyone,  for,  as  it  turned 
out .  Lopp  had  passed  up  the  lagoon  on  the  afternoon  of  the  2:M,  within 
half  a  mile  of  our  camp,  and  was  unable  to  find  it. 

March  '■>. — It  was  clear  this  morning,  and  as  I  was  doubtful  of  the 
position  of  the  herd  I  set  out  early  to  the  southward  to  look  them  up. 
I  had  not  gone  far.  however,  before  I  came  across  their  trail  leading 
up  the  lagoon  and  to  the  northward.  So  I  returned  to  the  camp, 
where  we  packed  our  sleds  as  quickly  as  possible  and  were  off  after 
them.  A  mile  or  so  up  the  beach  we  found  where  they  had  conic  in 
on  the  sand  spit  and  buried  some  dog  feed  for  us,  for  our  supply  of 
seal  meat  was  (pule  low  by  this  time  and  we  needed  this  additional 
supply  to  carry  us  to  Point  Barrow,  which  was  still  about  14<>  miles 
distant.  Although  it  had  been  snowing  so  much  of  late,  this  part  of 
the  sand  spil  was  nearly  bare.  Being  higher  than  the  ice  on  1he 
lagoon  or  on  the  sea,  the  wind  had  swept  it  (dean  and  it  had  now  only 
a  light  covering  of  ice  that  had  formed  in  1  he  fall.  Over  this  was  good 
traveling  and  we  were  not  long  in  picking  up  the  herd  ahead.  Here 
Lopp  and  I  divided  our  stores  of  bread  and  tea  and  parted,  company 
for  the  lasl  time  before  reaching  our  destination. 

Wolves  had  been  following  them  for  the  last  few  days  and  a  strict 
watch  had  to  be  kept  both  day  and  night.  There  had  been  no  wolves 
seen  during  1  lie  soul  hern  part  of  our  1  rip,  but  we  were  now  apprehen- 
sive of  trouble,  for  we  knew  they  were  to  be  found  in  this  region, 
though  how  numerous  we  could  not  say.  A  little  care  had  kept  them 
off  thus  far,  but  after  this  night  they  seemed  to  lease  of  their  own 
accord.  As  the  herd  passed  to  the  inshore  of  the  lagoon  for  I'(mm1  and 
;i  camp,  we  on  the  beach  herd  shots  and  saw  what  we  supposed  to  be 
a  band  of  wolves  running  off,  but  which  afterwards  turned  ou1  to  be 
some  wild  deer,  or  caribou,  that  had  almost  got  1  en  into  the  herd  before 
discovering  their  mistake.  They  soon  took  off,  and  though  the  boys 
were  after  1  hem  as  quickly  as  possible,  1  hey  were  not  able  to  shoot  any. 

From  the  Siberian  deev  people  I  have  heard  stories  of  how  the  wild 
deer  somel  imes  mingle  wit  h  the  herds  of  domesl  ic  deer  in  thai  coun- 
li'.v.  and  thai  the  offspring  result  ing  are  longer  limbed  and  have,  more 
stamina  than  the  ordinarv  domestic  animal,  and  these  half-breed  (leer 


*^!T.  IT'  ft       mt/k       . 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  GUTTER  HEAR. 


79 


arc  very  much  prized  l>y  the  people.  Such  cases  arc  very  rare,  how- 
ever, ami  none  lias  ore  u  rred  in  Alaska,  for  thr  wild  deer  have  nol  been 
in  the  same  pari  of  the  country  as  the  domestic  ones.  We  had  our 
usual  snowstorm  at  nighl  and  it  lasted  until  the  middle  of  the  follow- 
ing' dav.  1  he  24th.  We  traveled  in  1  he  afternoon,  passed  the  native 
village  of  Kilimantowruk,  which  was  deserted,  the  people  all  being 
off  in  the  interior  deer  hunting,  and  ramped  thai  nighl  on  the  south 
shore  of  Wainwriiihl  Inlet.  It  was  so  late  before  the  storm  cleared, 
away  that  the  deer  did  not  start  to-day  and  we  left  them  quite  a 
distance  behind. 

}[n rrli  '■'>,  —  We  were  oil'  early  1  his  morning  and  in  good  spirits.  We 
had  now  not  more  than  I<mi  miles  to  go  and  pushed  on  until  night  to 
make  the  native  village  of  Scdaro.  on  Point  IJelcher.  Here  we  me1 
John  (jrubin.  in  the  employ  of  the  whaling  station  at  Point  Harrow. 
wiiu  had  .just  conic  from  that  place.  ile  reported  everything  going 
along  all  riu'hl  when  he  left :  the  hunt  ing  in  the  spring  had  been  good 
and  vie  It  led  enough  meat  to  keep  the  men  for  1  he  presenl  :  bin  the  men 
in  the  camp  were  growing  restless  and  had  run  down  in  health  from 
their  miserable  way  of  living.  The  vessels  were  all  rigid  so  far  and 
no  danger  was  apprehended  until  the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  in  the 
summer.  I  sent  (i-rubin  to  the  southward  with  his  sled  to  find  Lopp 
and  help  him  along  if  it  was  necessary,  and  on  the  2'ith  we  wen1  on  to 
the  north.  Pushing  up  tin1  coast  we  crossed  over  the  large  lagoon  back 
of  the  >ea  I  lorse  Islands  a  boul  noon  and  raised  the  ,''><  lreth-r'',  the  first 
of  tin*  vessels  we  were  sent  to  aid.  She  was  the  ship  in  company  with 
1  lie  ()/■'•'!  and  t  he  ./'  .v.v/V  //.  F ,-i ,  in<i n  when  the  former  was  crushed  and 
the  I ai t ei'  abandoned  about  in  miles  below  here  on  September  '1  -.  is'. '7. 
A1  thai  time  open  water  was  seen  to  the  southward,  bin  the  ire  was 
coming  in  and  it  was  all  the  I !<  i r<  tlr,-<  could  do.  after  get  1  ing  t  he  crews 
of  the  other  two  vessels  on  board,  to  work  into  a  comparat  i vely  safe 
place  behind  Point  Franklin.  Here  the  vessel  was  housed  in  and 
banket!  up  outside  with  snow,  and  ai  the  time  we  reached  her  very 
litt  le  was  visible  above  the  drift  but  her  spars  and  rigging.  We  drew 
up  alongside  a  boul  i  p.  m..  and  going  aboard  announced  ourselves  and 
our  mission.  I > 1 1 1  it  was  some  time  before  the  firsl  astonishment  and 
increduloiisness  could   wear  <>\\  and  a   welcome  be  extended  to  us. 

Captain  .Millard  was  a  very  sick  man  and  looked  as  if  he  would 
hardlv  survive  the  winter.  There  were  .'In  men  on  board  the  vessel 
ai  t  hat  time,  !■"»  of  her  crew  having  been  scnl  to  Poinl  Harrow,  logel  her 


wil  h    1  he   crew  s   of   1  he  O,  <■,<  and    h 


in    (  M-tober.    1 


>ioiis  were  very  short,  and  bul  two  small  meals  a  day  was  the  allow- 
ance.     Thev  were  wholly  depend  en  1   upon  hunting  for  meal .  and  thus 

far   had    obtain.    1    aboul    •!. pounds  of  deer  meal    and  lish.  but  the 

hunt  ing  season  was  di  awing  1o  a  close,  and  nearly  five  months  had  to 
lie  provided  for  before  help  eon  1(1  reach  them  from  the  outside.  Our 
arrival    was  therefore  a  ureal    relief,  and    there  was   now   little   tea'-  of 


8(1 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.   S.   REVENUE    Cl'TTER    15EAR. 


the  outcome.  Thf  crews  of  the  Fn-f-ninn  and  Qmi  were  kepi  on 
board  the  Jh  lr>t7t /■>  two  weeks  before  the  situation  was  generally 
known  ami  then  sent  to  Point  Barrow.  A  small  portion  of  the  pro- 
visions were  reeovereil  later  from  the  wreck  of  the  Oreo,  hut  limy 
hardly  more  than  made  up  for  what  was  drawn  from  the  stores  of  the 
lit  I r<  tli  r,  to  keep  t he  increased  number  of  men  temporarily  on  hoard. 

There  had  been  no  accidents  to  the  vessel,  and  all  precautions  had 
been  taken.  A  house  had  been  built  on  the  sand  beach,  ami  all  the 
provisions  and  coal  stored  there,  nol  more  than  one  month's  supply 
being'  taken  on  board  at  a  time.  A  line  was  stretched  from  the  vessel 
to  the  shore,  a  distance  of  about  a  mile,  in  case  the  vessel  should 
have  to  be  abandoned  in  the  nigh!  or  during  a  thick  snowstorm,  and 
night  and  day  an  armed  guar*!  was  maintained  over  the  provisions 
ashore,  in  November  last  a  Siberian  Kskinio,  one  of  the  crew  of  the 
Orcd,  had  wandered  off  to  go  to  his  home  in  Siberia  and  was  never 
heard  of  again.  A  man  named  Kelly,  water  tender  of  the  Or<-n,  who 
had  been  retained  on  board  the  llil  n  th  n  because  he  was  nol  able 
to  travel  in  Point  barrow,  was  a  pitiable  object  from  syphilis,  lie 
applied  to  Surgeon  Call  for  treatment,  but  was  beyond  help,  and  a 
few  days  after  we  left,  his  body  was  found  in  the  stern  hole,  where  it 
was  thought  he  had  .jumped  to  end  his  misery.  There  had  been  one 
ease  of  scurvy  on  board  during  the  winter,  but  having  received 
propel-  attention  the  man  was  now  nearly  well. 

There  was  no  need  of  our  stopping  here,  for  they  were  in  no  especial 
need  at  present:  so  the  next  day.  March  i'7.  we  left  for  Point  Harrow. 
Our  usual  blizzard  came  up.  and  we  were  obliged  to  camp  about  b' 
miles  from  the  ship.  Pushing  on  t  he  next  day.  we  hoped  to  reach  our 
destinalion.bm  after  t  raveling  aboul  •']•">  miles  Ave  camped  at  Ignavik, 
a  small  native  village,  and  decided  to  wail  until  morning  before  sur- 
prising ihe  people  at  the  point.  ( )ur  dogs  were  now  very  tired,  ami 
so  were  we.  and  the  -'la  miles  we  had  traveled  this  day  represented 
the  limit  of  our  endurance.  We  had  come  to  within  la  miles  of  our 
journey's  end  without  accident,  and  there  was  nothing  to  be  gained 
I  >y  risk  ing  1  raveling  at  n  ighi . 

We  were  so  near  our  journey's  end  now  that  we  could  afford  to  look 
back  with  a  measure  of  satisfaction.  On  starting  out  it  was  hardly 
thought  or  contemplated  that  we  could  reach  Point  Harrow  before 
April,  and.  although  I  sel  that  limit  myself  and  stuck  to  it.  there  were 
many  1  imes.  wlmn.  considering  the  difticult  ies  ami  dangers.  1  had  mis- 
givings as  to  our  being'  able  to  arrive  within  the  limited  time.  fol- 
lowing the  windings  of  the  coast,  as  we  had  come,  we  had  traveled 
-oniei  h  i  ii-  in  the  neighborhood  of  l,."iuii  miles  or  more.  We  had 
lived  on  the  country,  as  we  were  directed,  and  had  ''"awn  from  it  all 
our  means  of  travel,  except  a  part  of  our  camp  gear  and  the  small 
store  we  brought  from  the  ship.  The  movements  of  the  reindeer 
herd   had   far  exceeded    our  expect  at  ions   and    were  due  to  t  lie  exl  raor- 


;_:    GOVERNMENT   REFuGE   S~AT      '.     PO.M    o.-.rJR^  . 


CHOSE    OF    THE     I*.   S.  REVEM'E    CCTTEK     BEAK. 


81 


dinary  work  (if  .Mr.  Lopp  and  his  •"boys."  Our  plans  to  overcome 
tlio  many  ol  istacles  ami  difficulties  had  been  carried  out  alinosl 
exactly  as  \vc  had  laid  them  down.  Loss  of  life  oi'  serious  accidenl, 
which  were  always  imminent,  had  been  averted  by  extreme  cure. 
and  we  were  now  within  1  •">  mi  lev  ,  if  our  dest  i  nation  and  in  Liood  con- 
dition  and  ready  to  lake  up  the  control  of  the  situation  al  1'oim  Har- 
n  iu  .  as  we  had  been  d  i  reel  ed. 

March  i"-1  was  a  beaut  i  fill,  clear  morning,  cold  and  sharp,  bm  with 
a  cloudless  sky  and  little  or  no  wind.  and.  when  we  drew  up  at  the 
settlement  at  I'oinl  Harrow  il  seemed  as  i  f  nat  tire  w  as  t  ryini:  1o  make 
amends  at  lasl  for  t  he  hard  trial  she  had  jH'iven  iis  from  I'oint  Hope 
up  t  lie  coast.  Passing  ra  pidly  by  1  lie  village,  and  by  the  old  shanty 
where  the  men  were  quartered,  we  drew  up  at  the  house  of  the  (ape 
Smythe  Whaling  and  Trading'  Company,  of  which  Mr.  ('.  1>.  liinwrr 
was  manager.  The  camp  was  no1  really  a1  Point  Harrow,  but  at  (ape 
Smythe.  about  '.'  miles  below.  I'oinl  Harrow  itself  is  a  low.  narrow 
sand  spit,  with  the  nat  i ve  village  of  N'uwuk  at  the  ext  reme  end  of  the 
point.  Al  ('ape  Smythe  is  another  laru'e  village.  Ootkieawie.  and  as 
the  land  is  higher  than  fartlier  north  and  <i'ood  water  is  found  the 
whaling  stations  established  by  ihe  white  men  were  locate<l  there.  It 
is  all  known  as  Point  Harrow  to  the  outside  world,  and  the  distinction 
is  only  local.  All  the  population  came  out  to  see  us  uo  by  and  won 
dered  what  strange  outfit  it  was.  and  when  we  greeted  .Mr.  Hrowei 
and  some  of  the  officers  of  the  wrecked  vessels,  whom  we  knew,  they 
were  si  mined,  and  it  was  some  time  before  1  hey  could  realize  thai  we 
were  flesh  and  blood.  Some  looked  off  to  the  south  to  see  if  there 
was  not  a  ship  in  si,i>ht,  and  others  wanted  to  know  if  we  had 
come  up  in  a  balloon.  Though  they  hail  realized  their  dangerous  sit- 
uation last  fall  and  had  seal  out  Mr.  Tilton  and  .Mr.  Walker  for  aid 
with  tin-  lirsl  opening  ol  the  ice.  they  had  nol  thought  it  possible  for 
anyone  to  reach  them  in  the  winter,  and  had  not  we  and  our  posit  ions 
been  so  well  known.  I  think  they  would  have  doubted  that  we  really 
did  come  in  from  i  he  out  side  world. 

All  was  excitement  and  relief  in  camp,  and  there  was  work  to  be 
done  immediately.  K  imagine;  a  runner,  the  mail  for  the  schooner 
Rosurio  and  the  steamers  A*c/ry;o/-/.  Fin rh-ss.  and  Jt-a nil  was  soul  to 
them,  to^'el  her  with  a  letter  to  each  one  of  their  masters,  telling  i  hem 
of  our  arrival  and  the  purpose  of  the  expedition,  and  asking  of  1  hem 
their  condif  ion  and  prospects,  so  we  could  work  intelligent ly  for  the 
best  interests  of  all.  Before  I  had  gotten  fairly  in  [dace  there  came 
a  delegation  of  men  requesting  me  to  immediately  look  into  their 
condhion,  which  they  thouti'hl  should  be  remedied.  Consulting  with 
Mr.  Hrowei',  Captains  Sherman  and  Poller,  and  K.  A.  Mcllhenny  and 
Dr.  Marsh.  I  learned  there  had  been  no  g real  suffering  and  thai  for 
the  present  ihere  was  no  li'real  need.  Provisions  were  short,  very 
short .  ami  old  v  bv  the  strict  es1  eeonomv  and  hard  work  had  1  hev  been 


S2 


CRUISE    OF    THE    l".   s.    REVENTE    CUTTER    BEAK. 


enabled  in  gel  along  so  far.  They  had  figured  as  well  as  possible  oil 
the  cud  of  llif  season.  Inn  there  was  anxiety  as  to  how  ii  would  end. 
There  was  flour  enough  now  on  hand  to  I  a  si  into  the  month  of  August ; 
meal  they  hoped  also  To  have  for  the  same  period,  but  thai  was 
dependent  upon  the  success  of  the  hunters  and  whal  could  be  hauled 
in.  The  different  vessels  were  practically  in  the  same  position  and 
had  about  the  same  quantity  of  food.  for.  as  far  as  practicable,  an 
equal  distribution  had  been  made  all  around.  Each  vessel  had  a  doe- 
team,  and  these  were  constantly  going  from  one  to  another,  and  coming 
to  I'oiiii  Harrow  to  I J  rower's  to  haul  supplies  both  ways,  besides  going 
bark  into,  the  interior  to  the  hunters  to  "bring  in  the  game  and  the 
lish  caught.  This  work  had  been  going  on  since  the  vessels  were 
lirsl   fro/en  in.  and  only  by  extraordinary  labor  had  they  been  able  to 

keep  the   men   alive.       All    the  supplies  thai    were  now  being    issued    to 

the  men  in  camp,  and  that  had  been  secured  for  them  until  August. 
belonged  to  Mr.  IJrower,  except  some  of  the  beef  and  pork,  which  had 
been  placed  in  the  old  refuge  station  in  the  summer  of  Issn,  and  from 
the  constanl  freezing  and  thawing  of  years  had  greatly  deteriorated 
ami  now  contained  little  nutriment.  Four  days  in  the  week  1  pound 
of  1  his  was  issued  :  t  wo  days,  one-half  pound  of  frozen  >{{■(•}■  mi  at,  and 
one  day.  one-half  pound  of  frozen  lish.  <  die-quarter  pound  of  beans 
was  issued  on  Sundays.  This,  with  1  pound  of  Hour  per  day  and  a 
small  allowance  of  coffee  in  the  morning  and  tea  at  night,  const  it  u ted 
the  rat  ion.  A  few  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  few  ounces  of  potatoes  saved 
from  the  Xunirrh  were  issued  each  week  as  long  as  they  lasted. 

I  first  gave  my  attention  to  the  quarters  of  the  men  in  camp.  At 
prevent  there  were  7*  in  the  old  house  mentioned,  and  the  morning 
after  we  arrived  Surgeon  Call  and  myself  inspected  the  place  and  the 
condilion  of  the  men.  They  were  all  in  a  horrible  slate.  The  house 
belonged  to  the  Pacific  St  earn  Whaling  Company,  and  formerly  was 
Used  as  a  whaling  station,  but  was  abandoned  as  such  in  the  summer 
of  !>'."'i.  When  the  men  were  lirsl  sent  here  from  the  />'  Iri  dirt  ii 
was  proposed  thai  theyall  be  quartered  in  the  old  refuge  station,  also 
owned  bylhe  Pacific  Steam  Whaling  Company,  bin  now  occupied  by 
.Mr.  E.  A.  Mcllheiiny  with  three  assistants,  This  house  had  been 
designed  1o  accommodate  1|IM  men  in  an  emergency,  and  this  was 
abotii  the  number  to  be  provided  for.  but  Mr.  Mcllheiiny  refused  to 
allow  anyone  but  the  officers  in  his  house,  ami  as  ihese  represented 
I n it  a  small  pari  of  i  he  w  hole  number,  the  only  other  place  1  hal  would 
take  t  he  remainder  for  1  he  winter  was  this  old  "Kelly  "  house,  as  it 
wa>  know  n.  Even  then  ii  was  in  a  bad  condil  ion.  The  roof  was  open  in 
place-.,  and  one  end  was  nearly  out  ;  but  taking  what  lumber  he  had. 
Mr.  Ilrower.  with  the  assistance  of  sonic  of  the  men.  patched  it  up, 
and  inside  tilled  !  pert  lis  1  hree  deep  on  t  he  walls  and  each  berth  to  hold 
t  h  fee  men.  A  -.mall  cooking  stove  was  put  in  t  he  center.  For  a  time  a 
Miml  1  heat  in e;  sin Ve  was  also  used,  and  1  he  walls  were  banked  outside 


PRESS  <  '  ERIAN    M   Si       N    A1     P(     '.  '     BARR      /. 


•  ./T^.i>^m< 


v 


NATIVE    HOUSES   AT    Piv.t    B-RR     //   VILLAGE. 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE    I'.   S.   REVENUE    CUTTEH     BEAR. 


S3 


with  snow.  One  window  pivc  a  feeble  light,  and  Ihcrc  was  I  it  1 1«»  <>i* 
no  ventilation  except  through  ihe  door  and  cracks.  From  scvcntv- 
five  to  eighty  men  occupied  the  place,  which  was  ahoul  --  by  .">.">  feet 
on  the  outside,  but  taking  oul  the  berths  and  stoves  let'i  scarcely 
enough  room  inside  for  them  all  to  stand  up. 

All  the  cooking,  except  baking  the  bread,  was  done  on  the  one  small 
stove.  It  was  only  boiling  meat  and  enough  water  for  tea  or  coffee,  hut 
the  steam  generated  gathered  in  frost  overhead  and  on  the  sides,  and 
the  drippings  from  this  kept  the  floors  and  walls  continually  wet  and 
filthy.  Lower  down  on  t he  walls  ice  had  formed  •'!  or  I  inches  thick. 
and  the  drippings  and  meltings  ran  down  over  this  into  the  berths. 
and  even  what  little  bedclothes  the  men  had  wen  never  dry.  In  the 
endeavor  to  keep  warm  some  of  the  men  had  boxed  in  their  berths, 
and  in  these  boxes  kept  improvised  seal-oil  lamps  burning.  The 
soot  and  smoke  from  these  lamps  covered  everything,  their  clothes 
and  bodies,  with  {i  black,  greasy  coating,  so  they  were  scarcely  rec- 
ognizable as  whit  e  men.  Some  hardly  left  t  heir  beiths  al  all.  and  all 
were  in  such  a  low,  demoralized  condition  that  onl;  tin1  cold  weather 
prevented  a  serious  outbreak  of  sickness.  Filth  and  vermin  were 
everywhere,  and  those  inclined  to  keep  clean  and  live  decently  could 
not  accomplish  it    in  such  a  place  and  under  such  conditions. 

The  masters  of  the  two  crews  had  done  nothing  for  them  in  any 
way.  either  in  seeing  they  were  provided  with  food  and  quarters,  or 
in  exercising  necessary  control.  This  inighl  have  been  done  it'  prop- 
erly started  at  first,  but  after  the  negled  was  apparent  the  men 
refused  to  recognize  any  authority  of  the  masters  or  officers  over 
them,  and  Mr.  B  rower  and  Mr.  Mcllhenny  were  compelled  to  step  in 
ami  assume  charge,  hater,  owing  to  some  trouble,  the  authority  used 
was  that  of  Mr.  B  rower  only.  It  was  always  a  question  with  so 
many  men  to  handle  how  much  control  could  be  enforced,  and  it  never 
went  further  than  guarding  against  depredations  and  lawlessness. 
Matters  of  personal  care.  etc..  were  left  to  the  men  themselves. 

Dr.  II.  It.  Marsh  had  attended  the  sick,  and  so  far  there  had  been 
no  deaths,  but  Surgeon  Call  reported  four  cases  of  scurvy  and  all 
hands  more  or  less  affected.  They  were  much  debilitated  and  run 
down,  and  if  something  was  noi  done  quickly  the  weaker  ones  would 
soon  die  from  general  debility,  and  serious  sickness  attack  all.  We 
had  no  antiscorbutics  bu1  ihe  fresh  meat  we  broughl  with  us.  but  I 
determined  thai  changes  must  be  made  at  once,  the  men  moved  from 
their  present  quarters,  their  clothes  and  bodies  cleaned,  and  proper 
rules  of  discipline,  health,  and  exercise  enforced.  Though  the  old 
refuge  station  would  take  them  all.  it  was  not  advisable  in  their 
present  stale  to  keep  them  together,  for  such  a  number  would  soon 
accumulate  filth  again.  From  Mr.  Brower  I  obtained  an  old  store- 
house thai  waslighl  and  well  built,  and  fitted  it  with  berths  for  l's 
men.      The   native  school   at    the   house  of  the   Presbyterian   Mission 


84 


CKCISE    OF    THE 


KEVEXl'E    CCTTEK    BEAK. 


was  not  now  in  session,  and  Dr.  II.  R.  .Marsh  gave  me  the  use  of  the 
schoolroom.  In  this  quarters  were  fitted  for  -'>  more,  and  the  remain- 
ing _•">  were  added  to  the  1  *  *  ali'eady  in  the  old  refuge  station,  making 
41  in  all  there.  These  (quarters  were  all  light,  dry.  and  warm,  and 
could  easily  lie  inspect ed. 

Mr.  Lopp  arrived  by  dog  team  on  the  o<>th,  having  left  the  deer 
herd  about  l'i  '  miles  below,  at  Sinra.  which  we  had  decided  on  for  its 
present  location  if  proper  feed  could  be  found  there.  It  was  away 
from  the  native  settlements,  and  away  from  all  danger  of  marauding' 
of  the  white  men  were  they  so  disposed.  When  the  herd  arrived  in 
<i'ood  condition  and  a  good  and  sufficient  supply  of  food  was  assured. 
it  was  a  great  relief,  and  the  strain  and  anxiety  about  the  final  out- 
conn/  of  the  sit  nation  under  which  everybody  had  been  all  winter  was 
removed.  In  con  dug  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  the  deer  had  1  raveled 
over  Ton  miles  in  fifty-five  days,  counting  all  the  delays  from 
storms  and  preparations,  and  Artisarlook's  herd  had  come  10n  miles 
farther,  from  Point  Rodney.  We  were  all  grateful  to  Mr.  Lopp  and 
the  ••boys"  for  what  they  had  done,  and  1  can  not  speak  too  highly 
of  the  skill,  courage,  and  persistent,  untiring  work  they  showed  from 
the  beginning  to  the  end  of  that  long  journey. 

We  started  with  44s  in  all.  including  the  7  Lieutenant  Bertholf 
brought  In  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  we  arrived  at  Point  Harrow  \\  ith  o^i'. 
The  difference  represents  what  we  had  to  kill  for  food  for  ourselves, 
and  what  were  killed  by  overwork  and  by  dogs  and  wolves.  '■')-  in  all: 
and  the  '.'A  which  strayed  off  in  a  blizzard  near  Cape  Kruzenstern. 
but  were  afterwards  recovered  and  driven  to  Lieutenanl  Bertholf  at 
Point  1  lope.  Considering  t lie  hurried  time,  the  unknown  and  untried 
regions,  and  all  the  dangers  incidenl  to  such  travel  and  work.  1  con- 
sider the  drive  in  every  way  a  marked  success.  I  selected  Artisarlook 
and  l'l  eima  to  remain  behind  and  care  for  t  he  herd,  and  made  arrange- 
ments for  the  return  of  Mr.  Lopp  and  the  others  to  their  homes,  as  I 
had  promised  them  on  engagement. 

( )n  aeeounl  of  the  scarcity  of  food  it  was  not  advisable  to  keep  any 
more  1o  be  (t-d  at  Point  Harrow  than  absolutely  necessary;  so.  after 
they  had  a  few  days'  rest.  I  turned  over  to  Mr.  Lop])  the  dog  teams 
which  had  brought  Surgeon  Call  and  myself,  and  t  hey  left .  bound 
south.  April  I.  They  ha'!  a  small,  light  outfit,  jusl  enough  to  last 
them  in  i  he  Pi'magea  River,  where  Lieutenanl  Bertholf  was  to  have 
supplies  cached.  Having  heard  from  the  vessels  to  the  east  of  Point 
liar  row.  I  also  sent  the  mail  with  Mr.  Lopp  and  a  report  to  you  of  the 
general  situation.  I  gave  Mr.  Lopp  instructions  to  forward  the  mail 
from  (ape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Si .  Michael,  wishing  some  news  of  our 
arrival  and  the  condition  of  affairs  to  be  at  that  point,  beyond  all 
doubt,  wle-n  the  first  steamers  should  arrive  in  the  spring. 

Tie-  iv!  urn  journey  of  .Mr.  Lopp  was  made  in  extraordinarily  good 
time.      Start  inu  from  Point   Barrow  April  -1.  he  arrived  al  Cape  Prince 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE    U.  S.  REVKNCE    CUTTER    BEAR. 


85 


of  Wales  May  5,  though  only  twenty-two  actual  traveling  days  on  (he 
road.  They  were  favored  by  good  weather,  a  northeast  wind  at  their 
backs,  but  had  to  face  the  sun,  which  was  now  high  and  shining 
most  of  the  day  and  night.  Crossing  Ivotzebue  Sound,  they  were  all 
severely  afflicted  witli  snow-blindness  and  compelled  to  lie  over 
several  days  before  they  could  see  to  go  on.  In  this  part  of  the 
country  their  trip  has  never  been  equaled. 

Having  settled  the  men  in  their  new  quarters,  I  directed  an  increase 
of  the  fresh-meat  ration  to  l'.',  pounds  per  week.  This  much  was  no1 
on  hand,  but  it  was  necessary,  as  we  had  no  antiscorbutics  and  musl 
rely  on  flesh  meat  to  stamp  out  the  scurvy,  and  1  could  now  fill  any 
lack  from  the  herd.  I  next  began  a  thorough  overhauling  of  the 
clothes  of  the  men.  The  bedding  was  gotten  out  and  aired,  and  such 
of  Li  as  could  be  cleaned  was  kept,  but  the  rest  of  it  had  to  be  thrown 
away.  All  the  heavy  deerskins  that  could  be  found,  and  all  that 
could  be  brought  in  from  the  hunters,  were  gathered  and  distributed 
to  those  most  needing  them,  it  was  impossible  to  get  enough  at  any 
time  to  properly  provide  all  the  men,  and  only  the  good,  warm  quar- 
ters they  now  had,  prevented  suffering.  Personal  clothing  went 
through  the  same  general  overhauling,  and  it  was  fully  as  bad  as  the 
bedding.  Only  a  few  of  those  inclined  to  care  for  themselves  had 
anything  decent,  and  1  was  compelled  to  make  a  general  search  and 
take  up  collection  of  everything  in  1  he  nature  of  clot  hing  1  hat  could  be 
found  or  spared  from  Mr.  B rower's  station  and  from  the  natives. 

When  it  became  generally  known  what  I  wanted,  the  natives  began 
bringing  to  me  a  few  odds  and  ends  of  woolen  clothing  they  had 
stowed  away  for  summer  use,  and  in  a  short  time  they  seemed  to  vie 
with  one  another  in  the  number  of  articles  of  all  kinds,  furs  as  well, 
that  they  could  give  to  clothe  the  "  Kablonas" — i.  e.,  while  men.  The 
native  contributions  kept  up  during  all  the  remaining  time  we  were 
at  Point  Barrow.  Hoots  and  boot  soles  were  hardest  to  obtain,  and  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  provide  enough  to  keep  the  men's  feet  dry. 
Toward  the  last  of  our  stay  these  commanded  fabulous  prices  when 
they  could  be  obtained  ai  all.  Soap  was  the  next  consideration,  and 
1  immediately  increased  the  allowance  of  this  to  1  pound  a  month, 
depending  upon  making  later  what  we  lacked  of  this  amount.  I  also 
required  and  saw  that  it  was  used  to  good  effect  on  the  persons  and 
clothing  of  all.  Cleanliness  was  an  absolute  necessity,  but  it  was 
had  wit  h  difficulty,  for  all  water  must  be  melted  from  ice,  and  we  had 
not  the  stoves  and  facilities  for  doing  this  to  any  extent.  It  was  dif- 
ficult at  first  to  gel  some  of  the  men  to  make  any  effort  to  clean  them- 
selves; bu1  later,  after  the  majority  saw  they  had  the  means  to  do  it. 
and  could,  they  united  to  compel  the  others  and  were  quick  to  report 
any  great  neglect.  It  was  not  long  before  the  general  appearance  of 
all  was  greatly  improved.  I  instituted  a  system  of  daily  inspection 
of  the  quarters  and  clothing  by  Surgeon  Call  and  myself,  and  kept  it 


8fi 


CKl'ISE    OF    THE     ['.   s.    KEVEXUE    (TTTEK    BEAR 


up  until  the  men  were  finally  put  aboard  tin*  //'"/■/  and  they  were 
never  allowed  to  lapse  from  the  condition  ol  order,  discipline,  good 
health,  and  cleanliness  we  inst  it  uted.  Surgeon  Call  attended  to  the 
health  of  everybody,  natives  as  well  as  whites,  and  his  services  were 
in  coiistanl  demand.  The  scurvy  patients  were  soon  well,  and  there 
was  no  serious  illness  nor  any  accidents  to  the  men  after  once  getting 
1  hem  din  ot"  t  hei  r  previous  had  state. 

There  was  only  coal  enough  on  hand  to  do  the  cooking,  ami  it  was 
necessary  to  have  fuel  for  the  new  quarters  I  had  provided.  To  obtain 
drift  wood  for  this  was  on  1  of  the  (pi est  ion  in  the  presen.1  condition  of 
the  men.  ami  with  the  difficulty  of  providing  them  with  clothing  ami 
fool  gear.  An  attempt  had  been  made  in  the  fall  to  obtain  some,  hut 
it  failed,  ami  1  determined  to  use  the  old  house  I  had  moved  the  men 
out  of.  for  fuel.  It  was  only  a  mass  of  filth  and  could  never  be  used 
again  for  quarters,  ami  1  lore  it  down  and  stored  the  wood  for  our 
Moves.  Happily  it  kepi  us  going  until  the  warmer  weather  came  ami 
we  could  do  wit hotil  fires  to  a  ureal  extent.  The  mess  arrangements 
were  t  rying.  There  were  l»ul  1  wo  stoves,  and  on  these  the  cooking  for 
about  l-'in  people  had  to  be  done.  Uy  patience  and  hard  work  it  was 
arranged  satisfactorily,  so  that  everything  began  to  move  smoothly. 
After  it  was  once  established  there  was  little  friction,  and  everything 
settled  into  one  groove  and  kept   into  it. 

For  good  order,  to  prevent  complicat  ion  and  t  rouble,  as  well  as  to 
protect  t  he  natives.  I  required  t  lie  men  to  keep  away  from  the  village  as 
much  as  possible,  and  saw  to  it  thai  they  kepi  out  of  the  houses  there. 
I  gave  the  natives  to  understand  thai  they  musl  uol  harbor  the  men 
in  any  way.  and  that  they  could  e.xpecl  the  same  treatment  and  pro- 
lection  from  me  thai  the  white  men   received.      The   native  supply  of 

f 1  was  not   only  short,  but   had   been  greatly  curtailed   to  keep  the 

white  men.  as  everything  in  the  nature  of  "  white  men's  "'  food  had 
been  kept  from  the  natives,  ami  their  slock  of  walrus,  whale,  and 
sea!  meat  had  also  been  largely  drawn  on  from  sympathy,  so  there 
H'ii>  hunger  in  many  cases  in  tin-  villages.  Later  on.  in  serious  cases 
of  illin*s>  among  the  mil  i  ves.  betler  food  had  lo  be  provided  for  1  hese 
pal  i  cuts,  and  1  he  v  were  l"<  ■<  1  from  .Mr.  I  >  rower's  house  on  Surge'  m  Call's 


After  Lmi  i  ing  t  he  camp  in  sat  isf  a  dory  order  I  t  urned  my  at  tent  ion 
to  I  lie  outlying  vessels.      The  J  !<  In  ili  r<    we  had  already  visited. 

The  schooner  linsurin  was  '.'  miles  away  at  I'oinl  Harrow.  Her 
crew  was  small,  and  fortunately  she  had  a  good  supply  of  provisions 
when  frozen  in.  aid  was  able  to  carry  her  crew  along  withoiil  much 
ussj-iaiice.  She  had  divided  her  store  of  sail  meat  with  the  vessels 
io  t  he  east  of  I'oinl  Harrow,  ami  was  now  compel  lei  I.  like  1  he  rest,  to 
depend  upon  hunting.  I'>\  great  labor  they  had  been  able  to  keep 
the  crew  -din-,  bin  lor  the  last  month  and  a  half  I  supplied  them 
the    herd.       Find  was    most    needed    here,  and    every 


.'~A_ER    ROSAR.O    BEFORE    SHE   WAS  CRUSHED       POINT   BARROW. 


\: 


WHALERS   NE/ZPo;-^    A\;>   FEARLESS  IN    THE    ICE    EAsT   OF   POINT    BARROW, 


CRUISE  OF  THE  I*.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


s 


expedient  of  getl  ing  w  nod  was  resorted  to.  Coal  had  to  be  hauled 
from  the  steamers  Xeirport  and  Fearless,  a  distance  of  4»i  miles,  at 
such  times  as  the  teams  could  be  spared  from  hauling  meat.  It  was 
impossible  to  keep  enough  on  hand  in  1  his  way.  and  resorl  was  had 
to  the  re  ma  ins  of  an  old  wreck  (dose  at  hand.  I  Hgging  away  the  snow 
and  iee  the  timbers  were  uncovered  and  blasted  out.  Xot  a  great 
amount  could  be  obtained,  but  it  was  something,  and  helped  out  the 
coal. 

'I'hc  steamers  Xe irport  and  Fearless  were  oil"  Pin  Point,  about  4o 
miles  easl  of  Point  Harrow.  They  each  had  a  crew  of  4U  men.  and 
when  first  (dosed  in  had  barely  enough  provisions  fo  last  through  the 
month  of  January.  Their  situation  in  this  respect  was  so  desperate 
thai  rigid  order  and  economy  had  to  be  enforced  immediately,  and  by 
great  labor  and  sacrifices,  and  by  Mr.  Grower's  excellent  assistance. 
enough  provisions  were  had  from  time  to  time  to  carry  them  along. 
1  hough  they  were  greatly  dependent  on  the  hunting — more  so  than  at 
any  other  point.  The  very  fact  of  their  situation  being  so  much 
worse  than  the  others  made  the  discipline  here  more  severe,  and  in 
consequence  better  order  and  even  better  content  ment  prevailed  than 
elsewhere. 

The  steamer  .Jean if'  was  off  Point  Kllice.  about  4-0  miles  east  of  the 
Xi  irporf  and  Fearless,  and  from  all  accounts  was  in  the  most  danger- 
ous posit  ion.  as  regards  safety  of  1  he  vessel,  of  any  of  1  he  Heel .  She  was 
-1  miles  from  the  land,  and  there  seemed  grave  danger  when  the  ice 
should  break  up  in  the  summer.  She  had  been  fairly  well  provided 
when  t  he  winter  set  in.  but  had  to  share  some  of  her  stores  with  the 
other  vessels.  As  with  the  other  vessels,  she  was  now  dependent  upon 
the  hunters  for  meat,  and  being  so  far  away  had  hard  work  keeping 
up  the  supply.  Her  crew,  front  all  accounts,  was  in  a  bad  state  of  dis- 
cipline and  discontent.  I  attributed  this  more  to  their  being  away 
from  all  travel,  and  being  confined  on  The  vessel  all  the  long  winter 
with  little  to  do  and  almost  nothing  of  outside  interest . 

Sleds  were  constantly  going  and  coming  from  all  the  vessels,  and  I 
was  thus  in  communication  with  the  masters  and  advised  of  their 
condition.  For  the  present  they  wcrt'  going  along  as  well  as  could  be 
expected  and  no  changes  were  necessary  until  I  could  visit  them  and 
learn  the  particulars  to  provide  for  the  final  distribution  of  food  thai 
would  be  necessary  to  carry  all  through  on  a  satisfactory  basis  until 
your  arrival. 

I  was  prepared  to  visit  these  vessels  April  12,  when  I  had  a  severe 
attack  of  tonsilitis  and  had  to  lay  over  for  some  more  favorable  time. 

April  is  ('apt.  George  15.  Leavitt,  of  the  Xewport,  arrived  at  the 
station,  and  from  him  I  received  all  the  information  in  regard  to  their 
condition  and  prepared  to  leave  with  him  on  his  return. 

The  bark  Wanderer,  which  was  one  of  the  fleet  that  left  Herschel 
Island  with  the  others,  had  not   been  seen  nor  heard  of  since  Septem- 


88 


CKl'ISE    OF     THE     U.   s.   REVENUE    Cl'TTEK     I5EAK. 


her  S,  ISU7.  She  was  thenaboul  loo  miles  west  of  Ilersehel  Island, 
ami  from  all  the  informal  ion  I  could  gather,  ami  in  the  opinions  of 
I  he  maslci's  of  the  steamers,  she  could  not,  on  account  of  tlie  ice, 
have  come  an  v  fart  her  west .  It  was  supposed,  and  1  1  hough  1  I  he  same, 
thai  (Mther  she  had  returned  to  Ilersehel  Island,  where  t  he  steamer 
Man/  I  >.  1 1  a  iin  was  wintering  with  I  wo  years'  stores  on  hoard,  or 
that  at  least  she  was  in  communication  with  thai  place,  for  Holding 
had  hern  heard  of   her  crew  at  this  end. 

Ilersehel  Island  is  4-00  miles  from  I'oinl  Harrow,  and.  as  these  two 
points  were  the  only  places  where  her  crew  could  ohtain  supplies,  1  he v 
must  make  for  one  or  the  other.  As  they  had  not  come  to  I'oinl  I  Jar- 
row  il  was  supposed  they  were  nearer  Ilersehel  Island  when  dually 
heset  hy  the  ice  and  had  none  hack  there.  Il  was  known  she  had  only 
a  small  si  ore  of  provisions,  and  as  she  was  one  of  the  vessels  the  expe- 
dition was  sent  to  relieve  I  was  anxious  to  fix  her  whereabouts  beyond 
question  and  was  on  the  point  of  organizing  a  search  for  her  when  a 
sled  arrived  at  I'oinl  Marrow,  April  -22,  from  I Ierschel  Island,  bringing 
1  he  welcome  new  s  thai  the  II  '"/nl<  n  i\  immediately  on  being  left  by 
the  other  vessels,  September  S3  1SH7,  had  returned  to  Ilersehel  Island 
and  her  crew  were  wintering  on  the  Mni'ij  I).   Hiiiih As  supplies. 

The  sled  was  in  charge  of  a  boal  steerer  from  the  lluuu  and  had 
lefl  thai  vessel  February  25.  They  had  a  very  severe  trip  along  an 
almost  deserted  coasl  and  al  limes  were  compelled  to  go  inland  from 
thecoasl  to  hum  I'or  food  for  themselves  and  dogs,  and  when  they 
arrived  al  the  .Ji/niii  were  in  very  bad  si  raits.  The  sled  also  broughl 
news  thai  Mr.  Walker,  who  had  left  I'oinl  Marrow  in  October,  1 S 1 ' 7 , 
with  mail  and  news  of  t  he  perilous  sit  nation,  and  asking  for  aid  as 
soon  as  possible,  had  arrived  al  Ilersehel  Island  safely,  and  from  there 
on  was  put  in  charge  of  the  Hudson  May  Company.  He  had  last 
been  heard  from  at  Fort  MacPherson.  on  Feel  Fixer.  January  •">.  and 
from  there  would  he  passed  on  from  one  to  another  of  the  Hudson 
May  posts  until  Kdniinton  was  reached. 

The  arrival  of  this  sled  removed  the  last  doubtful  point  in  1  he  situ- 
ation, and  knowing  jus1  how  many  men  we  had  to  care  for  and  .just 
what  we  had  lodo  it  with,  it  remained  now  simply  a  question  of  mak- 
ing the  best  uses  of  whal  we  had.  and  to  hold  everybody  together  in 
order  and  discipline  until  your  arrival.  I  was  anxious  to  not  sacrifice 
any  of  the  reindeer  if  it  were  uo1  necessary,  bill  found  later  in  April 
that  we  could  not  \'<'r<\  the  men  so  much  of  the  old  salt  meal  as  they 
were  gel  1  ing  wit houl  bringing  hack  scurvy.  The  surgeon  reported 
some  slight  indications  toward  the  last  of  the  month,  and  I  directed 
an  iiicreaseof  the  fresh  meal  to  I  pounds  per  week,  bringing  the  use 
nf  the  sail  meal  down  to  two  days,  and  was  prepared  to  increase  the 
allowance  on  the  vessels  on  visit  ing  1  hem.  The  hunting  season  was 
aboul  (dosed,  for  the  caribou  had  the  first  pari  of  April  gone  back  1o 
the  Meade  Fiver   Mountains,  preparatory  to  the  fawning  season,  and 


J 


CKUISE    OF    THE    IT.  S.   REVENUE    CUTTER    BEAR.  89 

wciv  out  of  reach  of  the  hunters,  who  now  began  returning  to  the  vil- 
lage and  station.  Two  expeditious  arrived  after  April  1.  and  each 
returning  hunter  brought  in  a  small  amount!  of  meat  and  (isli  and  all 
the  heavy  deer  skins  he  could  haul  on  his  sled.  In  this  way  0,000 
pounds  arrived  in  April,  bul  2,000  pounds  of  this  had  to  be  sent  to 
the  Belcedere,  leaving  us  at  Point  Harrow  about  4,00o  pounds  for  all 
purposes.  Hunters  from  the  vessels  to  the  east  were  kept  out  until 
June,  bul  they  got  nothing  after  April. 

Shortly  after  my  arrival  there  became  manifest  adisposition  among 
1  he  crews  of  the  different  vessels  to  leave  them  as  soon  as  warm  weather 
came,  with  the  thought  thai  I,  as  the  head  of  1  he  sit  uat  ion,  would  have 
to  receive  and  care  for  them  at  Point  Harrow,  and  1  was  compelled  to 
immediately  define  and  mainiain  the  relations  they  held  to  the  vessels 
and  t  he  vessels  to  them.  With  the  exception  of  t  he  crew  of  the  .fen lie, 
who  were  shipped  for  the  voyage,  all  1  he  others  were  shipped  for  stated 
periods,  and  all  these  periods  had  either  expired  or  would  expire  in 
a  short  time.  I  held  that  the  vessels  were  caught  in  a  position  of  peril 
through  no  fault  of  their  own.  but  through  an  act  of  Providence,  over 
which  they  had  no  control.  As  long  as  they  remained  in  that  posi- 
tion and  were  not  wrecked,  and  with  chances  of  escaping  the  peril, 
flie  obligation  of  the  crew  to  remain  by  them  and  save  them  could 
nol  be  broken,  and  the  obligation  of  the  vessel  to  provide  for  the 
crew  during  1  he  time  1  hey  were  held  in  1  his  position  through  no  fault 
or  desire  of  1  heirs,  was  equally  si  rong;  so  1  caused  it  to  bo  known  1  hat 
I  should  hold  1  he  crews  to  t  he  vessels  as  long  as  they  were  not  wrecked, 
no  matter  when  the  terms  of  shipment  expired,  and  that  I  should 
recognize  no  discharges  given  after  the  vessels  were  first  caught  by 
the  ice;  thai  discharges  could  not  properly  be  given  here,  in  a  deso- 
late, inhospitable  country,  but  only  upon  return  to  a  proper  port  of 
discharge  or  upon  your  arrival  in  the  open  season,  when  the  sick  or 
disabled  could  be  given  transportation  to  civilization.  I  also  held 
thai  il  was  the  obligation  of  the  vessel  to  provide  for  herself  as  far 
as  she  was  able,  and  that  1  was  there  representing  the  (-rovernment  to 
help  them  do  this,  to  preserve  order,  and  to  prevent  by  all  means  in 
my  power  any  distress,  and  would  extend  any  aid  necessary. 

Aside  from  the  safety  of  the  vessels  there  were  other  strong  reasons 
why  the  men  should  remain  as  they  were  on  their  vessels.  All  the 
food  had  been  distributed  with  tins  in  view,  and  it  was  impossible 
now  to  make  any  change  in  it.  I  could  not  care  for  any  more  al  Point 
Harrow  without  cutting  down  an  already  too  short  allowance.  Again, 
in  the  matter  of  exercising  discipline  and  control,  it  was  better  thai 
the  men  be  divide*  1  into  small  groups,  separated  at  good  distances,  as 
they  now  were,  foi  so  many  idle  men  in  one  crowd  would  breed  all 
manner  of  disturbances  and  troubles.  I  adhered  to  the  above  deci- 
sion all  through  my  government  of  the  situation,  and  maintained  that 
every  man  who  came  in  a  ship  which  was  in  existence  still  belonged 


90 


CRI'ISK    OF    THE    I'.   S.    IJEYENUE    CUTTER     KEAK. 


1<>  llial  \'csst'l,  and  only  in  some  part icularly  exceptional  cases  that 
had  occurred  before  my  arrival  did  1  allow  the  men  to  remain  away 
from  their  vessels.  1  had  no  real  diflieu  It  y  in  enforcing'  my  decision  in 
I  hi--  respect .  Inn  there  were  cont  in ually  eases  and  points  < - < » 1 1 1 i 1 1 ti  up  al 
variance  with  ii.  and  I  had  in  constantly  insisl  on  tlie  [joints  men- 
tinned. 

I  found  ai  (ape  S  my  the.  on  my  arrival.  .1 .  A.  Coffin,  lirsl  mate  ot'  t  he 
.Jin/iii.  who  claimed  1  o  have  been  driven  from  his  vessel  by  1  he  mas- 
ter. I'pon  invesl  iji'at  ion  I  found  this  story  of  bein.e"  driven  a\\a\  to 
be  true,  but  the  master  represented  that  Coffin  was  troublesome  and 
mutinous,  and  thai  he  had  to  be  notten  rid  of  or  there  would  have 
been  serious  trouble  with  all  hands.  Though  I  held  thai  Coffin  still 
belonged  In  the  vessel:  that  the  ael  of  the  master  was  illegal.  I  also 
sav.  t  he  necessity,  in  t  he  exl  re  me  cireil  instances  of  1  he  ease,  of  keeping 
Coffin  away  from  the  vessel,  and  did  keep  him  at  (ape  Smythe;  and 
even  there  lie  caused  more  trouble  than  any  of  the  men  under  my 
eharue. 

There  was  one  man  from  the  schooner  linsiirin  whom  I  found  at 
Cape  Smythe.  and  who  I  learned  had  lirsl  deserted  the  vessel,  and 
had  then  been  discharged,  to  work  in  .Mr.  IJrower's  house,  but  havinu 
been  I  roiiblesoine.  and  having  drawn  a  knife  on  one  of  the  men  Ihere 
In'  had  been  put  in  1  lie  old  house  a  Ion  ".■  with  the  others.  I'pon  learning 
that  he  belonged  to  1  he  llns"  rin  I  ret  u  rued  him  1  o  t  he  Vessel :  bill  il  pon 
the  master's  represent  in,i>'  the  man  as  a  dist  urbin.u'  (demeiil  in  his  crew 
I  a.yain  look  him  to  (ape  Smythe.  deeming  il  better  to  have  all  such 
under  my  immediate  control.  Fifteen  of  the  crew  of  the  /->/ 1 r<  di  ,■< 
wen-  also  al  (ape  smythe.  having  been  seni  there  inOclober.  ls'.'7. 
because  of  shortness  of  provision  and  the  impossibility  of  hauliny 
eiioii-h  In  the  vessel  to  t'< ■< •<  1  them.  I  kepi  these  men  where  they  were 
and  I  timed  t  hem  over  to  you  as  pari   of   the   li>  I  r<  ■<!»  r<    crew. 

April  •'!  Louis  liich.  carpenter  of  1  he  F<  n  rl<  ss.  arrived  al  Cape 
Smythe.  reporting  he  had  left  his  vessel  on  account  of  a  dispute  with 
the  master,  and  asked  that  he  be  taken  into  the  quarters  with  the 
shipwrecked  men.  I' pot,  i  1 1  \'e>i  i  Li  <•  1 1  im  i .  his  cause  for  leaving  was 
found  to  be  mi  trivial  thai  I  returned  him  lo  the  \-essel  ihe  ne.\1  day 
and  admonished  him  to  remain  there.  I  suspecled  and  subsequently 
i earned     Sir  l  his  man  was  pui   forward  1  o  1  ry  me  and  1  he  sil  uat  ion.  and 

it  allowed  to  leave  his  vessel  all  the  other  ilissal  isfied  on.  - 

-oon  ha\  e  folio wei I.  As  he  had  lo  walk  •">'  <  mi  les  comiiiL'  to  me 
"i  '  mile-  re|  itrniiiL'  lo  I  he  vessel,  there  were  none  other--  anxioii- 
to  :  r\    il   after  i  hal    le— on. 

I  ,      '  he  middle  of    April    Mr.    1 5  rower   and    I  he  nat  iv<-s   of   the  \  ilia ".c 

ade  pre  pa  rat  ion-  1  o  commence  their  usual  spring  w  haling.       This 

':_   :-  done  on  the  ice  at   some  distance  Iron;  ihe  shore,  ol'lei;  ■"•  lo 

i'\  where  ihe    iir-i    lead    of    wai<-r    i- opened    up  by  t  he  easterly 

The  boats  are  hauled  otii   on  -led-  and  the  i>eoiiie  camp  al   the 


GOING   Ou'T  ON   THE    ICE    FOR   WHALES   IN   APRIL. 


■■*mt*fMi:\  l*su  * 


("ROSE  OF  THE  I*.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


m 


edge  of  the  ice  and  remain  there  until  a  general  Wreak  up  comes  in 
June.  The  whales  pass  up  this  open  lead,  and.  when  caught,  are 
brought  to  the  inshore  ice.  where,  it'  small,  they  are  hauled  out  bodily, 
or,  if  large,  the  head  is  hauled  up  high  enough  to  be  cut  off  and  the 
bone  taken  out .  This  is  the  principle  article  of  trade  and  is  largely 
sought,  while  1  he  skin  and  meat  are  cut  off  ami  sen  I  to  1  he  village  ice 
houses  for  food  during  the  coming  summer  ami  winter.  The  work  i- 
ha/.ardous  and  entails  a  great  amount  of  exposure  and  suffering.  As 
the  natives  were  denied  any  portion  of  the  Hour  and  deer  meal  on 
hand,  il  was  necessary  that  this  whaling  should  be  successful  enough 
to  supply  them  food  to  last  from  now  through  the  summer.  All  the 
hunters  were  coming  in — event  ually  there  were  nearly  o()0  people  to 
be  provided  for.  Kxccpting  his  personal  effects,  Mr.  Brower  had 
given  up  l  he  whole  of  his  whaling  and  trading  establishment  to  the 
vessels  and  men  about.  lie  had  placed  it  all  at  my  disposal  and  it 
had  to  last  until  the  summer.  At  one  time  it  was  thoughl  thai  he 
would  have  to  siive  up  whaling  altogether.  This  was  so  serious  an 
interference  with  his  business  thai  1  soughl  to  protect  him  and  the 
natives  in  the  prosecution  of  so  much  of  ii  as  they  were  able  to  do. 
About  half  the  men  under  my  charge  wished  to  go  out  on  the  ice  them- 
selves and  **  whale  it."  This  was  neither  advisable  nor  safe,  and, 
besides.  Mr.  Brower  objected,  claiming  t  hat,  as  he  had  seriously  crip- 
pled his  business  to  keep  the  men  from  starving,  they  should  not 
interfere  with  what  he  was  able  to  do  with  his  small  remaining  outfit. 
The  men  were  inexperienced,  were  not  al  all  fitted  to  stand  the  expo- 
sure, nor  could  they  be  provide*  1  with  clothing,  and  besides  would  cause 
great  confusion,  and  their  indiscriminate  use  of  firearms,  etc  .  was 
likely  to  be  dangerous. 

I  had  now  enough  food  on  hand  to  last  the  season  without  reselling 
to  whale  meat,  which  would  uol  answer  for  all  the  while  men.  and 
the  most  serious  need  now  was  thai  the  natives  secure  enough  to  last 
them  and  provide  us  with  dog  feed,  of  which  we  were  greatly'  in  need. 
I  did  allow  Mr.  Brower  to  man  two  of  his  boats  with  some  of  the  men 
on  their  coming  to  satisfactory  arrangements  and  being  under  the 
control  of  him  and  his  assistants,  bul  was  prepared  to  revoke  this  if 
there  was  any  serious  trouble.  Many  of  the  men  wanted  to  go  out 
with  the  natives,  bul  this  was  not  advisable,  and  I  would  nol  allow  it. 
The  men  could  be  of  no  use  to  the  natives,  would  only  be  a  burden  in 
the  boats,  ami  make  no  end  of  confusion  and  trouble.  The  natives 
had  been  able  to  run  their  own  business  heretofore  and  could  do  it 
now  without  the  help  of  white  men:  and  this  was  only  a  subterfuge 
of  the  men  to  share  in  the  natives'  catch.  I  adhered  to  my  previous 
determination  that  the  natives  and  whites  should  be  kept  apart  as 
much  as  possible,  and  the  white  men  should  keep  off  the  whaling 
ground,  except  those  who  went  in  Mi*.  Brower's  boats.  Krom  these 
we  could   get  enough    whale  and    seal    meat    for  our   purposes.      Once 


!)2 


Clil'lSi:    OF    THE     I'.   S.    RKVKNL'E    (  TTTKi!     I'.EAK. 


the  order  was  understood  there  was  in,  1  i*f>iil>l«-  in  enforcing  it.  though 
I  had  i"  statitl  oil'  many  ingenious  propositions  to  gel  ;t  i*<  mi  ii<]  it. 

The  schooner  li'nsi ■:■/"  ami  the  steamer  IJi-l lu-di  n  both  engaged  in 
tin-  whaling.  Imii  tin*  other  vessels  to  tin-  cast  of  Poinl  Harrow,  briny 
so  far  from  tin-  -round,  did  not.  The  season  was  the  mosl  successful 
in  years,  theealch  being  \-l  whales,  la  rye  and  small.  Mos1  of  llieiu 
were  unite  small,  but  t  hey  furnished  exeellenl  food  for  the  natives. 
and  with  so  many  to  be  provided  for  a  small  whale  would  seem  to  be 
eaten  Up  in  ;t  few  hours.  Kxcepl  the  choice  [tarts  of  iins  and  flukes, 
which  go  to  the  fortunate  canoe  catching  the  whale,  the  meal  was 
common  property  and  was  shared  in  by  ihe  whole  populal  ion.  Alter 
the  meager  living  of  the  winter,  this  was  a  feasting  time  for  these 
uat  i\es.  and.  besides,  a  la  rue  store  for  the  summer  was  laid  in.  It  was 
not  possible  to  save  t  he  bet  lies  of  some  of  the  whales,  and  ol  hers  w  ere 
not  recovered  until  days  alter  briny  killed,  and  wen-  thru  unfit 
for  f I. 

'Idle  natives"  catch   of   whalebone  was  aboul    pi. (ton  pounds,  that  of 

Mr.   l>  rower's  station  aboul    li'.ouu  pounds,  tlie  I !<  / r,  th  ,-,   about    •*>.< 

pounds,  and  the  Rush  r  in  about  .*ii  10  pounds. 

All  tin-  men  who  were  <>U1  on  the  ice  kepi  t  he  nisei  ves  in  food,  except 
for  a  small  amount  of  tea  and  coffee  and  some  hard  bread  thai  had 
been  reserved  for  the  travelers  and  not  used,  in  this  way  we  saved 
i'i.")ii  pounds  of  Hour  and  small  stores,  which  laler  were  distributed  to 
the  vessels  mosl  needing  them.  The  whaling  continued  until  June 
when  the  ice  bee/an  to  break  Up  oil  the  edge  of  the  Hoe.  and  the  pack 
came  grinding  in.  closing  up  the  lead,  and  keeping  it  closed  until 
j  us1   bet'i  ire  y<  m  r  arri  \  al. 

There  were  several  accidents  to  the  nalives  from  carelessness    but 
no  one  was  lost,  nor  was  anyone  carried    oil"    by  the   ice.  as  soim 
happens.      It    is  very  hard,  rough,  dangerous  work    at     best,  ami   onl\ 
resolute,  strong  men  can  stand   the  exposure  and  heavy  strain  on  the 

s\'st  fill. 

May-  I  Marled,  with  Captain  Leavilt.of  t  he  X>  "'/>o/7.  1o  \  isil  his 
vessels  and  1  he  others  to  ihe  east  of  Point  Harrow.  We  wenl  b\  the 
Rn.sfi ri>i.  and  I  authorized  Captain  Collin  to  issue  fresh  meal  to  his 
men  l  o  1  he  extent  of  !  :,  pounds  per  day.  A  sat  isfactory  rat  ion  table 
had  been  submitted  to  me  here  by  Captain  Collin  on  my  first  visit. 
April  I.  bul  small  stores  were  now  disappearing,  and  the  increased 
ijiiaiility  of  meal   was  necessary  to  lake  their  places. 

The  steamers  X>  irpnrt  and  Ft<t,-h  ss  were  fully  ao  miles  from  the 
station,  and  it  was  a  long  day's  journey  to  reach  them  without  camp- 
ing. \ei  ii  was  done  day  after  day  by  the  ship's  travelers  in  keeping 
themselves  sii|tpliet|  during  the  winter,  and  we  did  il  ourselves  in 
fourteen  hours.  There  was  now  excellent  order  and  contentment  on 
t  hese  i  w  1 1  vessels.  They  were  not  not  more  than  2oo  yards  apart .  and 
less  than  oiiedialf  mile  front  the  shore.      Then-  was   a    heavv  ridge  of 


CRI'ISE    OF    THE    IT.   S.    REVEXl'E    CUTTEH     I5EAK. 


>3 


grounded  ice  outside  tliein  which  promised  1o  keep  off  any  crushing 
that  mighl  come  later.  The  few  provisions  and  supplies  were  kept 
in  it  house  on  shore  to  guard  against  loss  ot'  the  vessels,  by  lire  or 
crushing  and,  as  in  the  case  of  the  /><  I  r»  <h  ,■<  .  a  line  was  stretched 
from  each  vessels  to  this  house.  Kveryt  hing  was  equally  divided,  and 
the  ration  was  reduced  to  1  pound  of  Hour  per  day  and  three-fourths 
of  a  pound  of  deer  meat ,  with  tea  and  coffee.  This  was  not  sufficient, 
and  on  my  return  from  1  he  ./'  ana  I  authorized  an  increase  of  meat  to 
H  pounds.  These  two  vessels  were  in  such  desperate  straits  for  food 
in  the  fall  of  L s ', 1 7  thai  it  took  heroic  work  to  keep  them  supplied, 
and  Captains  Leavitt  and  MeKenna  are  deserving  of  great  credit  for 
the  way  they  brought  their  crews  through. 

The  Fearless  was  formerly  a  Norwegian  whaler,  bill  was  now  under 
the  Ndcaraguan  Hag,  though  owned  in  San  Francisco.  I  extended 
to  her  throughout  our  stay  the  same  measure  of  assistance  as  to  the 
others.  There  were  on  board  the  Fearless  two  of  the  men  rescued 
from  t  he  X'i  rn ,-fli .  As  1  hey  were  without  a  ship  and  these  vessels  were 
so  shorl  of  provisions,  1  took  them  into  the  camp  at  Cape  Smythe. 

After  remaining  on  the  Xeir^ort  two  days  I  went  on  to  the  Jennie 
with  Captain  Mason,  of  thai  vessel,  who  had  been  visiting  the  Xen:- 
port.  11  was  a  long  journey  of  4o  to  45  miles  over  the  ice  of  Smiths 
Bay,  and  it  was  well  into  the  nigln  before  we  arrived  at  the  vessel. 

The  Jennie  was  the  tender  to  the  llerschel  Island  fleet.  She  had 
discharged  hei*  cargo  there  and  was  caught  by  the  ice  on  her  way  out. 
She  was  a  large  steam  schooner,  not  as  well  fitted  for  ice  work  as 
the  whaling  vessels,  and  had  fallen  behind  on  the  way.  She  was  a1 
Poinl  Kllice.  about  4  miles  offshore,  and.  though  there  was  heavy 
grounded  ice  about  her,  it  seemed  she  was  in  a  dangerous  position 
and  mighl  sillier  when  the  summer  came.  There  were  many  com- 
plaints from  1  he  crew,  and  all  hands  seemed  discontented  and  in  a  bad 
state  of  discipline.  I  think  this  was  mainly  due  to  the  fad  that  the 
vessel  was  away  from  all  travel  bin  that  of  her  own  hunters,  and  the 
long  winter  of  idleness  had  been  more  than  her  people  could  stand. 
Provisions  were  now  very  short,  and  there  was  scarcely  enough  fresh 
meat  to  lasl  more  than  ;i  month.  Small  s1  ores  were  in  more  abun- 
dance than  on  i  he  oi her  vessels,  though,  and  I  arranged  with  Captain 
Mason  a  satisfactory  ration,  increasing  the  fresh  meat  to  14,  pounds 
per  day,  and  promised  1o  supply  that  amount  from  the  herd.  I  was 
concerned  about  the  safety  of  this  vessel,  and  arranged  with  Captain 
Mason  to  send  them  a  canoe  and  canoe  sled  for  traveling  ovei  the 
broken  ice  iii  case  of  serious  accident.  Being  so  far  offshore  the 
danger  of  crushing  was  much  greater,  and  should  the  wind  come  strong 
from  the  south  during  the  break-up  the  vessel  might  go  off  with  the 
whole  field. 

Returning  by  the  Xeirporl,  Fearless,  and  Tlosarin,  I  arrived  at  Cape 
Sin yi  he  May  In.      During  my  absence  many  disputes  had  arisen  among 


94 


CRUISE    OF    THE    [J.   S.   REVENUE    CUTTER     HEAR. 


the  iimmi  a ii<  1  othtM'  people,  and  I  was  occupied  several  days  si  raight- 
ening  llicm  out.  After  I  mice  assumed  the  authority  the  men  would 
be  amenable  to  no  one  but  me.  and  while  I  was  away  reserved  all 
their  disputes  for  my  return.  The  most  serious  one  was  between 
Mr.  K.  A.  Mellhenny  and  Tukaloona,  a  native.  The  latter  was  run- 
ning a  whaling  canoe  for  Mellhenny,  who  claimed  (he  agreeinenl  was 
thai  he  should  gel  one-half  the  catch.  A  large  whale  was  caught,  ami 
as  Tukaloona  gave  him  only  one-foui'th  of  this  lie  took  all  the  bone 
to  his  house,  and  the  native  appealed  to  me.  After  investigating  the 
case  thoroughly  I  learned  beyond  question  that  the  agreeinenl  was 
to  share  alike,  and  taking  all  the  bone  in  one  pile  I  had  it  divided 
equally.  The  agreement  was  then  dissolved  to  pre  veil  1  further  1  rouble. 
This  'was  the  same  kind  of  trouble  I  had  anticipated  with  the  wrecked 
men  if  they  were  allowed  to  work  in  the  native  boats,  and  1  tell 
relieved  that   I  had  not  permitted  it  in  the  beginning  of  the  season. 

At  CapeSmythe,  waiting  my  return,  was  a  sled  from  the  l>>lfi<lir> 
with  a  letter  from  Captain  Millard  saying  his  crew  had  refused  duty. 
I  was  delayed  several  days  by  a  storm,  but  .May  14  I  took  the  sled  and 
started  south  for  the  vessel.  The  ('»()  miles  was  too  far  for  one  day's 
journey,  and  that  night  I  camped  at  the  deer  herd.  I  had  given  Arti- 
sai'look  and  I'tenna  four  boys  to  help  them  do  the  herding  and  tend 
the  young 'which  wore  now  being  born.  There  had  been  ll>7  fawns 
up  lo  this  date,  and  of  these  .'!.'!  had  died.  This  was  a  larger  propor- 
tion of  deaths  than  usual,  and  I  attributed  it  to  the  more  severe 
weather  here  than  thai  about  Uering  Strait,  where  the  i\(^-v  had  been 
before.  1  colli  inued  on  lo  the  lit  I '  iu <hr<  on  the  1  .">1  h  and  arrived  that 
nighl.  The  next  day,  after  hearing  what  the  master  and  the  men 
had  to  say,  I  learned  that  they  had  refused  to  haul  wood  when  the 
dog  team  was  around,  and  complained  they  did  nol  receive  sullicienl 
food,  and  thai  they  also  wanted  to  leave  the  vessel,  as  their  terms  of 
shipment  had  expired  in  March.  I  reiterated  in\  previous  decision 
that  all  men  must  slay  by  1  he  vessel  without  regard  to  terms  of  ship- 
ment, and  then  turned  the  crew  to.  The  food  question  I  looked  into, 
and  directed  an  increase  of  meal  lo  the  same  amount  as  at  oilier 
olaces      !  ]   lo   1 .',   poll  mis  per  day. 

Al  the  differeiil  vessels  I  inspected  the  men's  food  and  endeavored 
lo  see  ihat  it  was  well  cooked  and  wholesome,  for  with  the  reduced 
niiioi.Mii  the\  had  lo  live  on  it  was  necessary  thai  everything  be  prop- 
erty prepared.  boiled  deer  meal  gave  a  nourishing  soup  in  addition 
to  Hie  solid  mailer,  and  it  was  generally  prepared  in  lids  way.  The 
ipm-iion  iii'  Hie  men's  work  was  left  with  I  he  master,  for  there  realh 
was  lit :  le  work  I o  do  and  il  was  only  pul  forward  by  I  he  men  lo  add 
to  !  he  number  of  disputes. 

While  at  I  he  llilnihri  the  weather  suddenly  grew  very  warm,  I  he 
1  hcrtiioiiieter  going  above  I  he  freezing  point .  and  as  1  lie  sun  was  above 
the  horizon    ,dl    the    t  wenl  v-four    hours   ihe    snow    began    molting  very 


CRUISE    <>E    THE 


REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


fas!.  On  the  l'.nh  I  arrived  back  at  Cape  Smythe.  The  sudden  rise 
of  temperature  compelled  us  to  go  to  work  immediately  1o  dear  away 
the  snow  from  al) nit  the  houses  and  drain  the  water  down  by  the 
beach.  Since  our  first  arrival  the  thermometer  had  hovered  about 
zero,  sometimes  in  April  going  as  low  as  — i'o0  to  — l'")0  and  the  north- 
east wind  prevailed  almost  the  whole  month. 

It  was  not  until  May  thai  the  sun  began  to  make  any  difference  in 
the  snow.  The  winter,  as  a  rule,  had  been  mild.  1  nil  the  fall  of  snow 
was  heavy.  This  could  hardly  be  estimated,  for  (he  wind  kept  it  con- 
tinually moving  and  piled  it  in  heavy  drifts  wherever  there  was  an 
obstruction.  There  probably  was  a  fall  of  from  .'J  to  4-  feel  on  a 
level,  but  the  drifts  in  some  places  went  right  over  the  houses.  \Y  hen 
the  sun  began  to  eat  away  the  snow,  the  water  settled  through  the 
drifts  and  promised  to  Hood  the  houses,  and  men  were  kept  busy  dig- 
ging and  making  drains  all  over  the  beach.  With  the  moderate 
weather  it  was  possible  for  all  of  them  to  be  gotten  out  of  the  houses 
and  kept  out  most  of  the  day,  and  though  il  was  a  heavy  tax  on  our 
resources  to  provide1  them  with  water  boots,  il  was  necessary  for  the 
health  of  all.  Baseball  had  been  in  vogue  for  exercise  during  the  cold 
weather  when  the  snow  was  hard  enough  to  give  good  footing.  It 
was  excellent  exercise  and  gave  all  soniel  hing  of  interest  to  talk  aboul 
and  furnished  a  relief  from  the  idle  monotony.  Later  when  the  snow 
was  off  t  he  ground  i.he  games  were  resumed,  and  I  required  the  men 
to  either  play  baseball  or  carry  ducks  from  our  shooting  camp  o  miles 
away,  the  exercise  grew  more  popular. 

When  once  the  snow  started  melting,  it  went  so  fast  thai  by  May -0 
spots  of  bare  ground  began  to  show alongthe  beaches.  The  water  ran 
out  on  the  sea  ice  and  on  the  ice  in  the  si  reams  and  soon  the  snow  on  top 
of  all  was  a  mass  of  slush  and  water.  The  snow  grew  softer  and  the 
water  deeper  until  June  ['•)  when  the  ice  at  the  mouths  of  the  small 
streams  broke  through  and  a  Hood  of  water  covered  the  sea  ice  for 
several  miles  out.  In  a  short  1  inie  this  water  made  holes  through  the 
weak  places  and  ran  off,  leaving  1  he  hard  sea  ice  bare,  except  in  the 
hollows  where  streams  of  water  still  remained.  Oradually  these 
st  reams  on  top  and  the  warm  current  from  1  he  south  below  ate  through 
these  weak  places,  but  it  was  nol  n  nl  i  1  July  thai  the  ice  inside  the 
ridge  began  to  break  up  into  small  cakes,  and  about  the  middle  of 
thai  month  il  had  all  broken  up  and  was  float  ing  aboul  with  the  wind 
and  current.  The  sun  was  now  shining  day  and  night,  and  though 
the  thermometer  al  times  lowered  to  aboul  the  freezing  point  the 
melting  never  stopped,  and  this  continuous  daylighl  and  sun  had  a 
strong  effect  on  both  old  and  new  ice. 

During  the  winter,  where  there  was  no  crushinglhe  ice  froze  from 
•5  to  f>  feel  thick.  There  are  no  bergs  in  this  part  of  the  Arel  ic  Ocean 
like  those  about  Greenland,  and  the  general  character  of  the  ice  is 
that  of  u'reat.  rough  fields  and   huge,  irregular  floating  cakes  thai  are 


«♦♦; 


Ci;UISK    OF    TIIK    T.   S.   REVENUE    CUTTER    HEAR. 


fori  i  mm  I  I  iy  |  lie  c.iiii  in  ii;  1 1  cri  ish  i  ng  ;iti<  I  piling  up  of  1  lie  fall  and  winter. 
From  in  v  own  obscrvat  ions  and  from  the  experience  of  others  here  all 
the  ice  thai  forms  on  a  level  (luring  the  winter  and  does  not  shelve 
and  [>ile  up  soon  passes  away  in  the  following  summer,  together  wilh 
inueh  of  the  old,  large  ice  1  hal  was  left  over  from  previous  years:  l»ut 
this  loss  is  about  counterbalanced  by  the  accumulat  ions  of  t  he  crush- 
in  <rs  of  the  fall  and  winter.  All  the  ice  formed  in  the  rivers  and 
lagoons  melt  s  there  and  lias  no  effect  on  the  anion  nl  in  t  lie  ocean.  In 
this  way  the  ice  in  the  open  sea  is  kept  at  about  the  same  point,  con- 
tinually stirring  about,  summer  and  winter,  with  the  winds  ami  cur- 
rents, and  seasons  of  greater  or  less  ice  are  simply  times  when  differ- 
ent winds  prevail,  keeping  the  fields  closer  to  the  shore  or  blowing 
them  off  ami  leaving  open  water. 

The  heavy  erushings  of  the  "  ridge "  are  caused  by  the  ice  first 
grounding  and  piling  up  as  it  comes  closer  to  the  shore.  This  ridge 
forms  a  barrier  to  the  pack  outside  and  generally  is  solidly  anchored 
b\  I )ecember  or  January.  Attached  to  t  his  and  extending  some  miles 
offshore  is  what  is  known  as  the  doe  or,  locally.  "  flaw."  Kvcii  in  the 
winter,  when  t  he  wind  blow  s  off  t  he  land  t  he  pack  drift  s  off,  and  a  lead 
of  open  water  is  made  outside  ihe  "floe."  There  is  always  a  slight 
current  in  this  lead  running  to  the  north,  unless  the  wind  is  strong 
enough  to  stop  and  turn  it.  In  the  late  spring  and  suniniei  this 
northerly  current  increases  at  limes  to  "_'  and  '■>  knots,  but  the 
strength  of  it  musi  be  more  or  less  local  and  confined  close  to  the 
land,  as  evidenced  by  the  drift  of  the  Xcrnrch.  This  vessel  caught 
in  the  pack  off  Icy  (ape  in  the  latter  pari  of  July,  1  s  *.  *  7 .  gradually 
worked  offshore  ami  to  the  northward,  passed  Point  Harrow  in 
Augusl,  and  during  September  was  about  !()<>  miles  easl  <>\'  that 
point  and  aboul  I'D  miles  from  the  land.  In  October  she  returned  to 
a  position  about  4"  miles  east  of  l'oint  Harrow,  ami  then  in  November 
disappeared.  Her  next  appearance,  in  the  latter  pari  of  January. 
was  at  Hefuge  Inlet,  about  i'i  i  miles  to  the  south  of  l'oint  Harrow, 
and  going  off  from  there  she  appeared  again  in  February  only  1  or  ."• 
miles  from  the  l'oint.  Thus  for  six  months  she  had  been  drifting 
back  and  forth  within  a  distance  of  J.">u  miles  with  l'oint  Harrow  in 
the  center,  and  all  the  time  fast  in  the  pack  ice.  This  could  not 
ha\e  happened  if  there  was  a  conl  inuous  currenl  in  one  direction.  It 
would  seem  also  |  hal  the  si  renglh  of  the  currenl  is  (dose  to  the  land, 
and  while  offshore  there  is  a  slighl  drift  to  the  north  in  summer.  In 
the  \\  inter  season,  how  ever,  the  ice  is  moved  a  bout  a  I  most  wholly  b\ 
I  he  wind. 

During  our  winter  journey  we  saw  ptarmigan  in  large  flocks  in  I  he 
,>  ukon  district  and  in  more  scattered  numbers  farther  north.  Occa- 
sional ravens  were  seen  until  l'oint  Hope  was  reached.  I  am  told 
t  he\  are  ■»nni el  hues  seen  as  far  north  as  (  ape  Lisburne,  but  not  beyond 
thai    point.      These   and  Ardic   owls  were   the  onlv  birds  we  saw.  but 


4^^t 


■"      ,      ■  ■  -       '  '-I'.' 


CRUISE  OF  THE  l".  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


97 


witli  i  hi'  coming  of  spring  there  came  greal  n umbers  of  d  ifferenl  birds 
lo  the  Point  Harrow  region.  A  snowbird  was  first  reported  April  14, 
but  il  was  nol  until  May  iliai  any  more  than  one  or  two  a  day  were 
.seen  by  the  whole  population.  April  CM  wo  eider  ducks  were  reported 
living  by  Ignavik :  but  during  this  month  the  birds  of  all  kinds  that 
appeared  were  bill  individual  forerunners  of  the  flights  that  were  to 
come  in  .May.  In  the  early  part  of  that  month  great  Mocks  of  eider 
ducks  were  moving  northward  along  the  lead  of  open  water  off  shore. 
This  flight  continued  all  of  May  and  June,  and  the  men  oul  whaling 
not  only  kepi  themselves  in  ducks,  but  from  time  to  time  furnished 
us  ashore  enough  to  augment  our  food  supply  and  vary  the  monotony 
of  the  diet. 

Jus1  as  soon  as  bare  spots  appeared  on  the  land  eider  ducks,  geese, 
jagers,  owls,  and  loons  began  nesting  in  great  numbers.  For  a  short 
time  in  June  quantities  of  eggs  were  gathered  by  the  men  ashore  and 
by  the  vessels  to  the  east.  They  did  not  remain  fresh  long,  and  with 
>o  many  people  as  we  had  to  care  for  they  made  but  little  addition  to 
the  general  supplies,  and  each  man  was  allowed  to  keep  what  lie 
found.  About  the  1st  of  July  the  male  ciders  began  their  flight  to 
the  southward.  They  came  from  the  east  of  Point  Harrow  along  the 
lagoons,  crossed  the  sand  spit  at  the  head  of  Elson  Hay.  and  flew  out 
over  the  ice  beyond  the  ridge  to  the  open  water,  which  they  followed 
until  out  of  sight.  When  the  wind  was  northeast,  they  flew  by  the 
shooting  station  established  by  II.  I>.  M.  ship  Plor^rm  the  winter  of 
1  s :,:;_:, 4  in  <rpeat  masses — flocks  of  hundreds,  and  one  flock  following 
close  on  another.  As  soon  as  this  flight  began  we  established  a  camp 
at  the  shooting  station,  composed  of  First  Mate  J.  L.  HI  lis.  of  the  Orcu, 
and  (apt.  F.  Aiken,  formerly  in  charge  of  the  refuge  station,  and  two 
natives.  In  ten  days  while  this  flighl  lasted  they  shot  and  recovered 
and  set  11  to  our  camp  1  .loo  eider  ducks.  Our  supply  of  fish  had  given 
out  several  weeks  before,  and  these  ducks  no1  only  filled  the  place  on 
our  weekly  ration,  but  also  furnished  an  excellent  change  and  addi- 
tion to  the  food.  The  natives  also  secured,  a  large  supply  of  ducks, 
and  the  question  of  food  was  ended,  as  we  now  had  but  one  month  to 
w  ail  for  your  arrival. 

I  saw  that  the  supply  of  meat  secured  from  the  hunters  was  used 
first,  and  reserved  that  killed  from  the  herd  to  the  last .  I  was  anxious 
to  protect  tlie  lalter  as  far  as  possible  and  kill  only  enough  to  last  us 
til  rough  the  season.  After  supplying  t  he  vessels  to  the  east .  however, 
I  kepi  our  ice  house  filled  with  meat  and  ducks,  while  the  Bel refit  ,-< -. 
being  but  a  short  distance  from  the  herd,  hauled  her  meat  direct  from 
there  as  she  needed  it.  All  hauling  was  finished  by  the  end  of  June, 
for  the  snow  was  gone  entirely  from  the  land,  and  the  sea  ice  was 
honeycombed  and  rotten  and  covered  with  streams  of  water  that  had 
to  be  waded. 

The  vessels  lo  the    east     had    to    be    stocked    with    meat  lo  last    until 


fls 


KI'ISK    OF    TIIK     ['.   S.    I'EVEXl'K    < 'UTTER     Mi  AH. 


Allli'USI  l»l  in-  l-'i.  as  little  1 1  <  >  |  m  •  could  he  had  tlial  they  Would  be  oll1  of 
tin*  ice  before  thai  lime.  All  through  .lune  this  work  went  on.  and 
by  unusual  labor  ii  was  accomplished,  together  witli  the  sending  of  a 
la  rue  canoe  and  sled  to  the  Ji-mi'^  for  tin*  safety  of  the  crew  of  thai 
vessel. 

Tins  lale  hauling  was  very  severe  on  the  dons,  as  the  honeycombed 
ice  lacerated  their  feel  in  a  short  time. ami  even  the  boots  thai  were 
made  for  their  feel  saved  them  very  little.  They  worked  wonderfully, 
thouiih.  and  many  would  arrive  back  in  such  a  state  they  could  hardlx 
stand  up.  I  know  no  more  faithful,  enduring,  hard-work  i  im  an  i  ma  I 
than  an  Kskinio  doi»\  There  is  no  snow  too  deep,  no  ice  too  rouii'h.  no 
hill  too  s1  eep  for  the m  to  face,  and  as  lon,t>  as  l  here  is  life  lefl  in  1  hem 
they  will  pull  and  si  ru,u',u'le  1o  dra.u'  alonii'.  Ill  feil  and  abused,  they 
may  seem  sn.arlin.ii'  and  snappish,  bin  their  faithfulness  dwarfs  all 
other  considerations.  For  my  own  team,  which  traveled  with  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  expedition  more  than  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles 
during  the  wilder.  I  ha"e  only  an  affectionate  twit itude  for  the  way 
1  hey  carried  us  t  hri  uitih. 

The  work  of  the  dou's  and  travelers  from  the  ships  ami  station  and 
villages  about  I'oinl  Harrow  during  the  lonu  winler  was  heroic,  and 
the  hardships  and  st  ruti'ti'lcs  to  niainla.in  life  there  Acre  "rand  beyond 
description.  Some  of  the. journeys  to  and  from  the  hunters  on  the 
!  rack  less  !  undra.  often  dislances  of  more  than  two  hundred  miles, 
were  almost   inconceivable  to  even  those  who  know  the  country. 

I  lax  intr  seen  thai  all  1  he  vessels  were  supplied  up  to  the  time  w< 
could  expect  relief  from  you.  there  was  nothing  left  but  to  wait 
pal  ient  ly  for  1  he  break-up.  lie  fore  it  came,  how  ever,  on  July  i'.  we  had 
a  violent  southeast  pile  which  gradually  worked  round  to  the  south- 
west ami  west,  jainmimi' 1  he  *"  pack  ""  hard  atiainsl  the  ridti'e.  breakin.ii' 
and  crack inii'  it  in  many  places,  shoxduu'  it  farther  in.  and  sendiiiLi' 
crushes  of  the  inside  ice  atiainsl  the  beach.  One  of  these  crushes 
struck  t  he  stern  of  1  he  schooner  llnsn  r'm.  a1  I'oinl  Harrow,  and  raised 
her  up  on  the  ice  above  the  level  of  the  water.  Passing  under  her, 
ii  took  away  her  rinider  and  sternpost.  tore  her  keel  away,  and  sloxe 
a  hole  in  her  how.  All  this  happened  in  a  lew  minutes,  but  as  the 
vessel  was  clos,.  up  to  the  beach  the  crew  l;' i  it  ashore  safely  ami  saved 
the  rciiiaininii'  store  of  provisions.  I  vished  the  vessel  that  nitihl 
and  found  a  camp  had  been  made  on  the  shun-  near  the  wreck.  I 
arranged  a  it  h  (  apt  a  in  ( 'oil  in  i  hat  the  crew  should  remain  where  1  hey 
were;  bin  later,  on  account  of  some  trouble  with  the  men.  I  hroutihl 
llicin  lo  (  a  pi  Snixlhe.  canipinti  them  in  a  leni  on  the  beach,  where 
'  hey  could  be  under  my  su  perx  isii  m. 

Tin'  masier  and   officers   remained    by  the  vessel    until  your  arrival. 

her   --ear  was  sax'ed   and    finally  disposed   of.      Later   I    heard 

■  1 1 ; i 1   all    the  \essels  had    been  tr  really  shaken    up  in  this  storm,  bill    no 

Ms      |  o  1 1  e    !  1 1  e  m  . 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.  S.   REVENUE    CUTTER    liKAR. 


99 


The  lii-Inilt  /■/  was  carried  out  with  the  field  of  ice  she  was  fast  in 
and  at  one  time  was  in  danger  of  going  off  in  the  pack,  bul  when  the 
wind  shifted  to  the  west  she  was  bronchi  back  to  her  original  position. 

The  \<  ir/it),-/  and  Fearless  were  badly  jarred,  hill  the  heavy  ground 
ice  outside  of  them  kept  off  the  worst  of  the  crush.  The  Jennie 
remained  t'asi  in  the  field  aboul  her  and  il  was  all  shoved  bodily 
against  the  beach,  where  it  piled  up  in  places  as  high  as  4<>  feet. 
Happily  ih<-  heighl  of  the  storm  did  not  last  long,  and  outside  the 
damage  to  the  Rasario  the  nel  result  was  to  break  up  the  ice  so  it 
could  go  off  with  the  first  favorable  wind. 

July -1  was  made  a  real  holiday  in  our  isolated  place.  1  made  a 
special  effort  to  collect  and  provide  an  ample,  and  what  then  was  a 
luxurious  dinner,  to  all  hands.  A  lew  bottles  of  pickles  that  had 
been  saved  were  given  to  the  men,  together  with  an  extra  allowance 
of  flour  and  meal  :  and  enough  dried  apples  had  been  saved  from  Mr. 
Brower's  stores  to  give  everybody  "pie/"  Some  atldetic  spoils  and 
games  were  arranged  and  carried  through,  with  such  prizes  as  our 
Straightened  circumstances  would  permit,  and  an  excellent  spirit  was 
infused  into  all.  Such  things  make  the  government  of  men  in  1  tying 
circumstances  easier,  and  mark"  a  break  in  the  dreary,  monotonous 
imprisonment  that  buries  the  thoughts  most  of  the  hardships  thai 
have  gone  before. 

I  found  the  greatest  craving  of  the  men  was  for  some  season- 
ing in  their  food.  The  continuous  boiled  meat  and  bread  would 
sometimes  pall,  and  after  my  arrival  I  collected  from  the  outlying 
vessels  some  tins  of  sage,  savory,  and  thyme,  and  these  seemed  to 
make  a  great  difference  in  the  food.  Pepper  was  mosl  craved,  but 
by  spring  there  was  little  or  none  left  anywhere. 

After  the  whaling  was  finished  the  natives  immediately  began  leav- 
ing for  the  east .  to  1  rade  with  the  natives  from  the  C'olville  River  and 
others  on  the  coast  as  far  as  Barter  Island.  This  is  a  yearly  trip 
made  bylhe  Point  Barrow  natives  to  secure  deerskins  for  clothing, 
and  also  to  fish  in  the  livers  during  the  early  summer.  Taking  a 
canoe  ami  outfil  on  their  sleds  they  started  across  the  tundra  back 
of  the  village  ai  Cape  Smythe,  and  after  traveling  about  lo  miles 
struck  a  river,  from  which,  with  short  portages,  they  were  able  to 
make  their  way  through  the  network  of  streams  and  lakes  until  they 
reached  Lake  Tesukpuk.  A I  tout  the  time  they  arrive  this  far  1  here  is 
sufficient  open  water  for  their  canoes  and  the  journey  is  continued 
along  the  shore  The  return  is  made  in  the  latter  part  of  August  or 
in  September,  before  the  young  ice  begins  to  make.  Many  of  the 
C'olville  River  people  also  come  to  Point  Barrow  in  June  and  July  to 
exchange  furs  for  seal-oil  and  ammunition.  A  constant  trade  is  thus 
ma int a i ned  along  this  as  well  as  other  parts  of  the  Alaskan  coast .  and 
in  this  way  furs  are  passed  along,  in  the  ramifications  of  the  trade, 
from   as   t'ai  easl    as  the   .Mackenzie    River,  across  the  Bering  St  raits. 


100 


CRUISE    OF    TIIK     U.   S.    U EVEN UK    CUTTER    BEAR. 


kick  I  hrougli  t In*  Siberian  wilds  to  the  Russian  out  posts— mink, 
marten,  Iteaver.  and  red  fox  skins  being  the  principal  articles  going 
from  Alaska,  and.  in  return,  reindeer  skins  for  clothing  come  from 
Siberia.  Formerly  Russian  tobacco  and  tea  came  to  Alaska  in  this 
way.  I)in  these  have  now  been  driven  ou1  by  the  trade  carried  on  by 
t  lie  whaling  vessels  and  t  rading  posts  established  in  the  count  ry. 

Karly  in  .Inly  I  planned  and  prepared  an  expedition  in  charge  of 
('apt.  A.  ('.  Sherman,  consisting  of  eight  men  and  two  natives,  1o  go 
down  i  he  coast  as  far  as  Icy  (ape  or  Point  Lay  to  the  Hear,  witli  news 
of  our  condition.  At  Point  Barrow  we  had  supplies  to  last  until 
August  l'o,  and  at  the  outlying  vessels  except:  the  Belrericn-  until 
August  1".  but  there  was  always  uncertainty  as  to  tin*  demands  on 
the  supply  on  the  vessels,  and  after  August  1  our  provisions  would 
be  so  limited  thai  another  distribution  would  be  necessary,  and  more 
rigid  economy  than  ever  enforced. 

The  I'll rrdf-rt  supplies  were  designed  to  last  until  August  1,  as  she 
was  farthest  south  and  could  expect  relief  sooner.  However,  on  July 
Is,  T  sent  her  5i  >' '  pounds  of  t  he  remaining  (lour  1  hat  had  been  reserved 
for  emergencies,  as  I  was  anxious  that  we  should  all  fare  as  nearly 
alike  as  possible. 

Water  was  making  along  the  beach  very  last  in  July,  and  on  tin* 
Nth  the  expedition  started  with  a  canoe,  sled,  and  t  wo  weeks"  pro- 
visions.    Their  experience  and   arrival  on  the  Htary-ni  know  of. 

The  reindeer  herd  was  kepi  all  this  time  between  Siinaand  Refuge 
In'ei,  moving  about  between  the  places  as  the  moss  was  ealeii  off. 
Though  not  so  plentiful  as  in  the  region  about  (  ape  Prince  of  Wales 
and  Norton  Sound,  there  is  ample  \'r*-*\  in  this  section  to  support  a 
la rge  herd.  On  account  of  our  needs  this  herd  was  kept  on  1  lie  coast, 
yet  from  all  reports  I  believe  thai  farther  back  the  moss  is  not  only 
heller  but  m  itch  more  [dent  if  ul.  The  first  fawns  were  born.  April  li'. 
and  births  continued  until  the  middle  of  June,  making  :!~>\  in  all, 
ami  of  these  ill  died  or  were  accidentally  killed  after  birth.  It 
was  first  thought  that  these  deaths  were  caused  by  the  cold  weather, 
In  it  as  1  hey  emit  in  ued  in  t  he  same  p  report  ion  t  hroughout ,  even  in  the 
early  pari  of  June,  the  weather  could  not  be  the  cause.  It  was  a 
grealer  n  umber  of  deal  lis  I  han  usual,  and  it  was  observed  thai  nearly 
all  were  lawns  whose  mothers  were  but  1  year  old  themselves,  and 
I  .-on  el  u  dei  I  thai  I  hese  ha  I  f-grown  mot  hers  were  not  si  rong  enough  to 
stand  I  lie  severe  t  ravel  I  hey  had  been  subjected  I  o  so  (dose  to  delivery, 
and  st  ill  bear  young  with  stillieient  si  a  in  ina  to  live. 

Art  isarlook  and  (donna  gave  exeellonl  and  eoiistanl  attention  to 
'lie  Imrd.  and  the  foil  r  '*  boys"  engaged  lonv-dsl  them  soon  adapted 
themselves  to  |  he  work  and  became  capable  herders.  At  lirsl  I  he 
reindeer  were  regarded  with  curiosily  by  1  he  natives,  but  later  they 
be^an  i  o  see  I  he  great  usefulness  of  t  he  animals,  and  wonder  how  1  hey 


? 


i 


m 


. . ~ . ,-;  ■'.  . . 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE    U.   S.   REVENUE    (TTTKli    BEAR. 


101 


could  be  secured.  I  was  constantly  asked  by  the  better  class  of  the 
people  if  the  reindeer  were  to  be  left  there  after  we  had  used  all  we 
needed,  and  if  in  some  way  their  sous  could  not  work  in  the  herd, 
learn  the  business,  and  eventually  possess  (\o('V  themselves.  Our 
situation  was  too  uncertain  and  I  was  too  busily  occupied  to  make  1  his 
experiment,  yet  I  do  not  doubt  the  willingness  and  the  ability  of  these 
people  to  become  good  deernien,  for  they  struck  me  as  being  the  best 
natives  on  all  the  coast.  It  was  not  only  at  Point  Barrow  that  the 
reindeer  were  appreciated  and  desired,  but  everywhere  on  our  route 
from  (ape  Prince  of  Wales.  The  whole  coast  is  well  adapted  for 
them,  and  1  know  of  not  long  t  hat  would  be  so  beneficial  as  their  inl  ro- 
duction  in  large  numbers  throughout  all  the  northern  part  of  Alaska. 

The  wild  deer  or  caribou  will  soon  be  a  thing  of  the  past  there. 
The  great  demand  of  the  miners  for  deerskin  clothing  will  monopo- 
lize all  the  supply  thai  can  be  had  from  Siberia,  and  in  a  very  few 
years  the  natives  will  be  great  sufferers,  for  nothing  can  take  the 
place  of « lee  rs  kins  with  1  hem.  When  herds  are  scat  tered  over  the  coun- 
try at  convenient  distances  1  here  are  great  possibilit ies  of  1  ransporta- 
tion,  and.  for  food,  reindeer  meat  can  not  be  equaled  in  that  region. 
I'pon  the  arrival  of  the  Bear  there  were  o!M  left  in  our  herd,  old  and 
young,  and  under  your  direction  they  were  turned  over  to  Dr.  II.  \i. 
Marsh,  representing  the  Presbyterian  mission.  Besides  what  was 
used  for  the  members  of  the  expedition  I  distributed  12,481  pounds 
of  fresh  meat  from  the  herd  among  the  people  at  Point  Barrow,  and 
the  addition  of  this  when  most  needed,  made  it  possible  to  bring  the 
men  through  without  extreme  suffering  and  sickness. 

July  ,11. — Mr.  Thomas,  first  mate  of  the  Xetrport,  arrived  at  the 
station,  having  made  his  way  in  a  boat  from  his  ship  to  the  head  of 
Elson  Bay.  lie  reported  that  on  the  1-th  instant  the  Xeirporl  and 
Fearless  had  been  able  1o  work  free  of  the  ice  that  had  held  them, 
and  two  days  later  came  as  far  west  as  Point  Tangent,  then  gradually 
to  Cooper  Island,  but  could  get  no  farther.  The  Xeirporl  was  leaking 
badly,  but  later  on  was  taken  into  Klson  Bay  and  the  leak  stopped. 
Their  provisions  were  getting  so  low  thai  I  sent  them  :■]()()  pounds  of 
sab  meal,  as  the  fresh  meat  would  not  keep  in  the  warm  weather  we 
were  now  having.  On  the  lsth  the  Jeunie  came  in  sight  and  worked 
to  within  '■>  miles  of  the  other  vessels,  but  as  yet  there  had  been  no 
communication  between  them.  I  learned  later  thai  the  Jeauie\s  stem 
was  in  bad  shape  and  thai  she  also  was  leaking  badly.  Both  vessels 
were  in  such  condition  thai  i1  was  necessary  thai  they  go  to  some 
port   for  repairs  as  soon  as  possible. 

During  the  first  half  of  .July  the  wind  blew  from  the  southwest  and 
kept  the  pack  hard  in  with  no  sign  of  movement,  but  on  the  14th  it 
shifted  to  northeast  and  blew  from  thai  direct  ion  almost  steadily  until 
after  vour  arrival.      It  was  several  davs  before  an v  effect  was  visible 


102 


CKUISE    OF    Till-:    l".   s.    HEVEXL'E    CUTTEK    BEAR. 


on  the  ice.  bin  gradually  a  small  lead  began  to  show  outside  the  ridge, 
and  it  kept  spreading  until  the  :T>th  instant,  wlien  the  park  was  out 
ol'  sight  t'foni  the  land.  During  these  days  the  men  in  camp  were 
very  uneasy  and  excited  over  the  prospect  of  near  relief  from  their 
long  imprisonment. 

After  your  arrival  and  the  men  were  sent  aboard,  the  <  quarters  t  hey 
occupied  were  cleaned  and  turned  over  to  their  owners  in  good  condi- 
tion, and  the  work  of  the  overland  expedition  was  ended.  The  orders 
of  the  Department  were  fully  canned  out  and  the  imprisoned  men  at 
Point  Harrow  were  relieved  from  the  bad  condition  in  winch  they  were 
found,  succored  and  governed,  to  the  effect  that  1  hey  were  1  urned  over 
to  you  in  1  he  stale  of  good  health  you  must  have  observed.  The  only 
death  after  our  arrival  was  that  of  Philip  Mann,  aged  is  years,  nat  ive 
of  New  York,  formerly  seaman  of  the  steamer  Jf-sst<  H.  Krf-f-jntin.nl 
heart  disease.  June  s.  ls'.is.  The  particulars  of  his  death  and  the 
post-mortem  on  his  body  are  contained  in  Surgeon  Call's  report. 

The  final  good  outcome  of  the  situation  under  which  the  vessels 
were  imprisoned  at  Point  Harrow  seems  providential.  When  first 
caught  by  the  ice.  in  September.  1S!»7.  there  wcr^  iTo  men.  with 
scarcely  enough  provisions  to  la  si  them  until  Jan  nary.  Vet  t  hey  were 
brought  out  of  it  in.  August,  IS'.'*,  with  no  starvation  and  little  suffer- 
ing. A  chain  of  fortunate,  almost  miraculous,  circumstances,  and 
ext  rao rd i nary  and  heroic  labor,  contributed  to  this  result  :  first  of  all. 
the  intelligent  work  and  good  will  of  Mr.  ('.  A.  Hrower.  manager  ol 
the  (ape  Smythe  Trading  and  Whaling  Company,  in  giving  the  sup- 
plies and  resources  of  his  station  to  the  relief  of  the  men:  the  good- 
ness and  help  of  the  natives  who  denied  themselves  and  were  denied, 
to  support  the  white  people:  the  miraculous  coming  in  with  the  ice  of 
the  wreck  of  the  Xti ru rt-Ji  with  her  provisions  when  they  were  most 
needed:  the  appearance  of  wild  deer  in  the  neighboring  country  in 
numbers  before  unheard  of:  the  labors  of  the  masters  and  traveling 
men  of  the  vessels,  and  the  opportune  arrival  of  the  overland  expedi- 
tion, with  its  supply  of  fresh  meat,  at  the  very  lime  when  the  men 
required  correct  ion  in  1  he  way  of  living,  government .  and  an  increase 
of  fresh  food.  Despite  some  shortcomings,  the  work  folio-wed  on  suc- 
cessfully from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  the  long  year,  and  though 
there  was  disaster  to  property  there  was  none  to  human   life. 

In  detailing  the  work  of  the  expedition.  I  have  no1  dwell  upon  the 
personal  part  of  the  t  ravel  with  any  intention  to  in  agin  f>'  the  dangers 
or  trials,  bul  simply  to  show  some  of  the  difficulties  we  encountered. 
and  which  all  people  traveling  in  that  country  have  to  contend 
against.  Thai  we  overcame  them  was  due  to  the  enthusiastic  labor 
of  all  in  ihe  effort  to  carry  out  your  orders:  and  to  the  help  we 
received  from  those  living  in  the  country  ami  from  the  natives. 
The  help  of  the  natives  to  us  and  1o  the  people  at  Point  Harrow  is 
deserving  of  sonic  substantial  reward.      I  submit    herewith  reports  of 


;        ;.  ,   THE   DOGS 


CRUISE    OF    Till-;    U.  S.  REVENUE    (UTTER    BEAK. 


L03 


Second    Lieut.    K.    1*.    IJertholf  and  Surg.   S.   .1.   (all   of  independent 
operations  carried  on  by  them. 

Very  respectfully,  1).   II.  Jakvis. 

First  Lieutenant,  li.  ('.  #., 

Com  nm  ml  i  mj  ( )ri  flu  ml  R(  l/ef  E.i'pt  (lit  ion. 
(apt.  Francis  Tittle.  K.  ('.  s.. 

Com  ma  mli  inj  t  .  »S.   Re  re  inn    Cutter  Rear. 


REPORT  <>/■'  L1EVT.    /•:.    /'.    liERTHOLF.  R.  < '.  S. 

SEPTEMBER    1.  1808. 

Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  subinil  the  following  reporl  of  my  move- 
ments while  separated  from  the  main  expedition,  in  accordance  with 
the  written  orders  received   from  yourself,  dated  December  20,  L8'j~. 

On  the  even  in  g  of  December  21,  the  day  after  you  had  departed 
from  Kiyilieugamute,  the  dog's  for  which  we  were  wailing  returned 
to  the  village,  and.  having  bargained  for  their  use,  we  were  enabled 
to  resume  our  journey  the  following  morning,  taking  Alexis  and  a 
native  boy  along  with  us  for  guides.  We  traveled  along  the  same 
trail  used  by  you  and  Dr.  Call,  receiving  news  of  your  arrival  and 
departure  as  we  came  to  the  different  villages  along  the  route,  and 
as  advantage  had  been  taken  of  our  enforced  stay  at  Lviyilieuga- 
mute  to  alter  the  heavy  sled  brought  from  the  ship  so  as  to  bring 
the  runnel's  closer  together  and  lake  the  sag  out  of  the  after  ends  of 
them,  1  was  not  obliged  to  wait  so  often  for  Koltchoff  to  catch  up  with 
that  sled,  and  we  made  very  good  progress. 

When  we  reached  Akool u k pugamut e  on  the  evening  of  the  22d, 
I  wished  to  cross  the  mountains  in  order  to  save  a  day.  and  if  possible 
catch  up  with  you  by  the  time  we  reached  St.  Michael,  bin  having  no 
tent  for  shelter  in  case  we  got  caught  in  a  storm  on  the  mountain, 
Alexis  thought'  it  would  be  belter  to  go  around  the  range,  and  thus 
reach  a  village  each  night  for  shelter  in  case  bad  weather  should  set 
in  unexpectedly. 

Accordingly  we  followed  your  trail,  which  broughl  us  to  (huk- 
wokt  ulieugamute  on  the  2'kl  and  to  Kogerehtehmute  on  the  2-41  li. 
By  this  time  my  dogs'  feel  were  very  sore,  for  the  thin  crusl  on  the 
snow,  which  the  dogs  broke  through  at  nearly  every  step,  cul  and 
lacerated  the  cushions  of  their  feel  so  thai  some  of  the  poor  little 
fellows  left  a  trail  of  blood  behind  them.  Under  ordinary  circum- 
stances when  the  dogs'  feet  become  sore  in  this  manlier  it  is  best  to 
halt  for  a  few  days  and  allow  them  a  rest,  for  the  cuts  seem  to  heal 
very  (piicklyin  this  climate. 

As  we  could  not  afford  to  lose  anytime,  however,  Alexis  said  he 
would  have  the  nat  ive  women  in  the  village  make  •"  boots"  for  the  dogs 
during  the  night.      These  boots    are   simply    pieces  of  cotton    drilling 


104 


CKl'lSE    OF    THE    C.  S.  REVENUE    CTTTEK    BEAK. 


sewed  together  in  such  a  manner  as  to  lit  over  (he  lower  part  of  ilie 
dog's  fool,  and  then  tied  on  just  below  the  knee.  This  affords  the 
cushions  of  the  feel  protection  from  the  sharp  edges  of  tlie  snow  and 
allows  the  cuts  a  chance  to  heal :  hut  even  these  cotton  coverings  won  hi 
be  worn  through  in  the  course  of  a  day's  t  ravel,  and  new  ones  must  he 
put  on  each  morning'.  Alexis  sent  one  of  our  native  guides  to  call  the 
women  to  our  tent,  but  although  he  offered  to  pay  well  for  the  little 
sewing  necessary  to  make  a  supply  of  these  boots,  not  a  woman  in  the 
village  would  work  on  1  hem,  beca  use  the  previous  day  one  of  the  village 
nat  ives  had  died,  and  their  superstit  ion  forbade  them  to  work  the  four 
succeeding- days  after  a  death  had  occurred  in  the  village.  They  said 
thai  whoever  did  any  unnecessary  work  before  the  four  days  "were  up 
would  surely  fall  sick  and  die  also,  and  t  he  only  work  that  was  neces- 
sary from  their  standpoint,  was  taking  the  (ish  from  the  traps  and 
preparing  the  meals.  They  wouldn't  even  repair  their  own  clothing 
during  the  four  days,  and  not  even  the  most  liberal  offers  of  tea, 
flour,  and  tobacco  from  Alexis  could  induce  them  to  brave  their 
superstitious  fears,  so  we  were  obliged  to  make  a  set  of  boots  our- 
selves, as  best  we  could,  to  last  until  we  reached  Chukwoktulik  the 
following  day,  where,  as  there  had  not  been  a  recent  death,  we  were 
enabled  to  have  a  supply  made  properly. 

The  day  we  reached  Chukwoktulik  was  Christmas,  and  as  wo  saw 
quite  a  n  umber  of  ptarmigan,  or  arctic  grouse,  on  the  road  I  imagine* I 
I  would  have  a  fairly  good  Christ  mas  dinner  I  hat  evening:  but  as  I 
had  only  a  rifle  with  me  I  was  unable  to  kill  any.  and  when  I  reached 
the  village  I  was  obliged  to  content  myself  with  the  usual  meal  of 
pork  and  beans,  hard   bread,  and  tea. 

All  through  this  country  I  found  the  nalives  e.\1  remely  kind  and 
hospitable.  Having  no  tent,  we  were,  of  course,  obliged  to  sleep  in  the 
native  huts,  and  invariably  when  we  came  to  a  village  and  entered 
the  ka/.hinie  the  besl  and  cleanest  corner  was  set  aside  \'ov  our  use. 
The  village  people  would  lend  a  hand  to  unload  the  sleds,  bring  our 
things  into  the  hut.  and  see  everything  beyond  the  reach  of  the  dogs. 
If  we  asked  for  fish,  it  was  immediately  brought,  even  though  their 
supply  was  scant .  and  if  any  of  t  he  nat  ives  had  a  seal  1  hey  would  cu1 
mil  the  liver  and  give  it  to  us,  although  that  is  considered  by  them  a 
delicacy  ami  they  are  very  loud  of  it.  In  fact,  the  best  they  have, 
such  as  it  is.  they  will  share  willingly  with  the  stranger,  and  when 
you  leave  the  village,  if  you  give  them  a  few  cups  of  (lour  or  a  little  tea 
or  tobacco,  they  seem  greatly  pleased  and  think  you  are  very  liberal. 

I  never  look  pains  to  keep  track  of  my  personal  outfit  or  the  food 
we  had  with  us,  yet  I  never  missed  a  single  article,  and  frequently 
when  we  wore  packing  the  sleds  in  the  morning  a  native  would  bring 
us  some  arl  icle  that  had  been  left  behind  in  the  ka/.hinie.  Once  or 
twice  I  was  given  some  small  article  you  or  Dr.  Call  had  discarded, 
for  Alexis  told  them   I    belonged  to  the  same  party,  and    they  thought 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAK. 


1<»5 


you  had  forgotten  the  article  in  question  and  wished  to  ivsimv  it  to 
the  proper  owner.  For  simple  honesty  and  hospitality  these  natives 
might  be  equaled,  but  they  surely  can  not  be  excelled  by  any  rare  of 
people. 

<  hi  the  :M1  h  we  left  (  hukwokl  ulik  ami  started  1  he  last  day's  journey 
before  reaching  to  Andi'eafski.  Having  no  thermometer,  I  had  no 
means  of  ascertaining  the  degree  of  eold  until  we  reached  that- place, 
when  I  was  somewhal  surprised  to  find  the  mercury  registering  15 
below  zero,  for  up  to  that  time  the  weather  had  not  seemed  to  me  to 
be  very  eold.  Here  we  picked  up  the  tent  and  stove  you  had  left 
behind  to  lighten  your  load,  and  proceeded  down  the  Yukon  River 
the  following  day,  but  being  obliged  to  lose  half  a  day  on  the  lower 
pari  of  the  river  on  account  of  a  violent  snowstorm  we  did  uo1  reach 
Cape  Romanoff  until  late  in  the  evening  on  December  i".i.  Here 
Alexis  first  began  to  show  signs  of  a  serious  illness,  and  during  that 
night  he  was  in  ureal  pain  and  was  unable  to  sleep  at  all.  For  the 
previous  three  or  four  days  lie  had  frequently  complained  of  a  cold, 
with  pains  in  the  side,  but  neither  he  nor  I  thought  seriously  about  it. 
and  indeed  1  would  have  been  unable  to  do  anything  for  him,  fori 
was  not  enough  of  a  doctor  to  understand  what  was  his  trouble,  and 
besides,  I  had  no  medicines  with  me.  The  next  day  he  was  unable  to 
walk  and  was  obliged  to  ride  on  the  sied.  Our  other  guide,  having 
developed  some  sort  of  sore  on  both  his  knees,  also  had  to  be  car- 
ried on  the  sled,  so  that  all  the  running  ahead  of  the  dogs  devolved 
upon  Koltchoff  and  myself,  and  thai  uiglil  we  gol  no  farther  than  the 
steamer  //<"///.  laid  up  in  what  is  locally  known  as  the  "'canal." 
aboul  1  -  miles  from  St.  .Michael,  and  did  no1  reach  the  latter  place 
urn  i  1  noon  the  following  day.  January  1,  1  s1. is. 

Upon  our  arrival  1  requested  I>r.  Kdie,  the  surgeon  attached  to  the 
military  posl  there,  to  examine  the  two  guides  and  prescribe  for  t  hem. 
The  native  boy's  knees  were  attended  to,  and  as  they  were  not  seri- 
ously affect  ed  lie  soon  recovered  the  use  of  them,  but  Alexis  was  found 
to  have  developed  a  very  bad  case  of  pneumonia.  lie  was  therefore 
put  in  bed  and  turned  over  to  the  doctor's  care,  and  for  three  months 
was  confined  to  his  room,  but  the  doctor  finally  managed  to  pull  him 
through  and  he  left  for  his  home  some  time  in  April.  As  Alexis  had 
been  very  fail  h  fill  and  his  illness  was  undoubtedly  due  to  exposure 
while  in  the  service  of  the  expedition.  I  considered  ii  my  duty  to  see 
thai  he  was  properly  cared  for.  and  before  1  left  St.  Michael  I  gave  an 
order  lo  the  agent  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  at  thai  place 
to  furnish  nurses  for  Alexis,  and  whatever  else  Surgeon  Kdie  consid- 
ered necessary  to  further  his  recovery. 

As  dogs  were  very  scarce  at  this  place  and  it  was  impossible  to 
obi  ai  n  fresh  t  can  is.  I  purchased  from  Alexis  tin*  best  of  the  teams  tint  1 
had  come  with  the  expedition  from  Tununak,  and  remained  at  St. 
.Michael  unlil  the  cuts  on  the  dogs'  feel   had  healed. 


106      CRUISE  <)F  THE  I",  s.  REVENUE  CUTTER  REAR. 


In  accordance  wiili  your  letter.  I  delivered  to  I-'.  Koltchoff  your 
written  order  terminating  his  connection  with  ilie  expedit  ion  and 
directing  liini  to  reporl  to  Col.  <;.  \V.  Randall.  United  States  Army. 
for  duly  in  connect  ion  will)  t  lie  ( Govern  me  in  dec)-  herd. 

On  .January  ,->.  havine;  obtained  from  t  he  company  some  necessary 
articles  of  clot  hi  in:  and  provisions,  I  left  St.  Michael  with  one  team 
and  the  native  hoy  Vv<-i\  for  a  ii'iiide.  and  proceeded  to  Unalaklik. 
reach  in;:  t  here  on    t  he  evening  of  the  si  h.      A  few  hours  at'  er  lea  vim;' 

St.     Michael     I     fell     in    with     the   ollttil    of     Male    deuI'Lie     U.    Tiltoll    of     the 

steam  whaler  / !<  I r<  tl<  ,-,  .  who  was  on  his  way  from  I'oini  Harrow  to 
San  I-'rancisco.  and  who  told  me  that  he  had  met  you  and  uiven  you 
all  the  information  he  had  concerning'  the  state  of  affairs  at  I'oini 
Harrow.  When  I  reached  the  house  of  Mr.  Knjdestadl .  the  1  rader  for 
the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  ai  Unalaklik.  I  found  your  order 
to  carry  l.M|>"  pounds  of  provisions  across  tin*  country  and  nieel  you 
at  ('ape  Hlossoni.  hut  as  I  had  only  one  team  of  does,  and  Kuii'lesladl 
was  1 111a hie  to  furnish  me  wit h  any  more.  I  was  obliged  to  remain  there 
unl  i  1  yi  mi  r  don's  ret  11  rued. 

Here  I  obtained  bonis,  socks,  a  parkie.  and  a  sleeping  baiz  made 
properh  of  deerskin,  ami  discarded  t  ne  1  orrespondiii.u'  arl  icles  brought 
from  the  ship,  as  the\  were  not  adapled  to  the  cold  weather  we  wviv 
now  ex  peri  en  cine;.  The  i  nit  lit  and  provisions  for  myself  and  the  nec- 
essary natives  weighed  a  little  over  •'!IMI  pounds,  and  as  there  were  no 
villages  on  111  v  prospective  route  bet  ween  1  he  head  of  N  orl  on  I  lay  and 
(ape  Hlossom.  :!oi  1  pounds  of  lish  had  to  be  carried  also,  with  which 
to  feci!  the  do_e>.  so  that,  together  wilh  the  1 .000  pounds  of  provisions. 
t  here  was  a  load  of  a  boil  1  I  .ni »  >  pounds  to  be  t  ran  sport  ed.  This  would 
!•(.•<  pi  ire  at  N-asi  four  sleds,  with  the  corresponding  number  of  teams. 
Inn  as  Kmdestadl  informed  me  that  I  could  irel  one  learn  from  his 
ii.i1  I  \  e-  trader  ai  Koyuk.  this,  with  the  two  teams  you  were  to  send 
back  and  my  one  team,  would  make  up  the  necessary  four,  and  as  1  he 
■  i1111  pound-. it'  lish  and  •">' H '  pounds  of  flour  were  already  at  Koyuk. 
thus  leavine;  lull  si  11 1  pounds  for  me  to  haul  from  Unalakleel.  I  con- 
cluded on  the  |nih  to  start  for  Koyuk.  taking  the  sum  pounds  on  m\ 
team  and  ;i  small  naiive  team  Kimlesladl  managed  loenimu'e  to  ^o 
:ii'.   hopim:  to  meet  your  does  ret  undue,  on  the  way. 

Ma'  :n_  lieen  unable  to  obtain  a  l  heriiionioler  a1  S1.  Michael.  I  was 
unable  '11  kee  ,  a  record  oi'  the  t  emperat  lire :  but  on  1  lie  h'.lh.  when  I 
lett    I    nalakieet.   the  iiierciny    registered  .'Jo     below   zero. 

I'  "do  w  ;  ne;  1  he  same  -eucral  I  rail   almm  which   you   had   I  ra\  eled.   we 

ed      Kll'owik    on    the   e\ellitiy     of    llle     l>;ih.    ,'llld    oil    tile     i  7t  ll    stoppeti 

ai  shakio  ik.  iit'ter  haviim  traveled  during  the  al'ternoon  in  the  face 
ot  .1  \  uieiit  snowstorm,  which  increased  duriim  tin  uiejil  to  such  an 
'•\teiii  ilia'  on  the  i  -s  i  1 1  it  h'iis  impossible  to  see  i'i  i  yards  ahead,  and 
we    \  ere  o!ij  ■_,-,]   1  o  re  1 1 1  a  i  n  o  v  e  r  a  1   the  \  illauc 

n   ii  ■_  of  I  he  I  'ai  li  da  w' i icd  clear,  and  we  resumed  our  joiirne\ 
low  a  rd  I    na  ktolik.      In  l  he  alien u.  about  an  hour  before  we  reached 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAK. 


107 


that  village,  I  met  your  teams  on  their  way  to  I'nalaklik,  1  >ui  the 
dogs  looked  pretty  well  played  out, and  the  two  drivers  deelared  they 
could  not  accompany  me  to  Kotzebue  Sound  until  they  had  none  to 
I'nalaklik  and  obtained  wanner  clothing  than  they  had  on  a1  the 
time,  for  1  hey  said  it  was  much  colder  across  the  portage  l  han  in  the 
vicinity  of  St.  .Michael.  I  therefore  sent  a  note  to  Knglestadt,  asking 
him  to  send  me  at  least  one  of  these  teams  and  an  interpreter,  and 
told  him  I  would  wait  at  Koyuk  until  1  heard  from  him.  We  reached 
Cnaktolik  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  on  the  following  day  crossed  the 
head  of  Norton  Sound  on  the  ice  and  finally  came  to  Koyuk.  which  is 
situated  a1  the  mouth  of  the  river  hearing  the  same  name.  Here  I 
discovered  thai  the  team  belonging  to  the  native  trader  al  this  place 
and  which  1  had  expected  to  obtain  had  left  the  day  before  on  a  trip  to 
I'nalaklik.  and  as  the  native  who  accompanied  me  with  the  extra 
team  refused  to  go  any  farther.  I  was  obliged  to  allow  him  to  return, 
and  was  thus  left  with  one  dog  team  with  which  to  transport  1,000 
pounds  across  count  ry. 

The  following  day,  therefore.  I  sel  out  for  (-i-olovin  Iiay.  three  days' 
.journey  to  the  westward,  where  there  was  another  of  the  Alaska 
Commercial  Company's  t rading  stations,  hoping  to  be  able  to  procure 
t  he  necessary  dogs  at  thai  place.  Again  I  was  doomed  to  disappoint- 
ment, however,  for  on  my  arrival  I  learned  thai  all  the  dogs  belonging 
to  the  station  were  absent  on  a  trip  into  the  interior  of  the  country. 
A  few  miles  from  here  was  the  herd  of  (Government  reindeer,  and 
there  I  went  next,  Mr.  Ilultborg,  the  Swedish  missionary  al  (-rolovin 
Iiay.  kindly  accompanying  me  to  act  as  interpreter  with  the  Lapps. 
foi"  the  superintendent  of  the  herd.  Mr.  Kettleson,  had  gone  up  the 
coast   wit  h  you  and   Dr.  (  'all. 

Soon  after  leaving  (i-olovin  Iiay  I  had  an  excellent  demon  st  rat  ion  of 
the  [towers  and  strength  of  the  Alaskan  dogs.  Mr.  Flu  It  berg  had 
loaned  me  two  of  his  deer,  which  left  the  village  some  time  before  we 
did,  and.  as  they  were  both  harnessed  to  one  sled,  which  carried  but 
one  driver,  their  load  was  a  light  one.  and  they  traveled  fast.  My 
sled  was  very  heavily  loaded,  as  I  was  taking  back  with  me  some  ext  ra 
provisions,  rendered  necessary  by  my  enforced  delay  and  the  two 
extra  deer  drivers  I  had  now  to  provide  for.  I  had  with  me  two 
natives  for  guides.  Having  allowed  the  deer  to  gel  a  good  distance 
ahead,  we  started,  but  my  dogs  could  see  the  deer,  and  they  started 
after  them  al  such  a  speed  thai  the  two  natives  and  myself  could 
scarcely  keep  up  with  t  hem,  and  we  all  piled  on  the  sled.  The  weighl 
of  we  three,  in  addition  to  the  heavy  load  the  sled  already  carried, 
would  have  stopped  a  dog  team  short  under  ordinary  circumstances, 
bm  in  their  eagerness  to  overtake  the  deer  The  dogs  did  not  apparently 
mind  the  extra  weight,  and  bowled  along  as  fast  as  ever,  and  before 
the  (\i-r\'  reached  tin-  base  of  the  mountain  we  had  to  cross,  the  (logs 
had  caught   up  wil  h  them,  and  it   required  the  united  effort  s  of  I  he  two 


1<»S  CRl'ISE    OK    THE    I".  S.    REVENUE    (TITER    HEAR. 


natives  ami  myself  to  hold  them  in  check.  We  now  held  thedou's 
hack  until  the  deer  could  li'el  far  in  advance  up  the  mountain,  and.  as 
there  was  another  sled  coming  behind  with  a  heavy  load.  I  told  one  of 
my  natives  to  wait  for  it  and  help  the  man  who  was  driving  it.  for  as 
lonu  as  my  doL>'s  kept  the  •-cent  of  the  deer  1  knew  they  would  iu»l 
need  much  assistance.  ( )winu'  to  my  i  m  per  feci  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
uuau'e.  however,  the  natives  misunderstood  me.  and  both  of  them 
started  back  for  the  rear  sled.  This  released  the  dous.  and.  though  I 
dra.u'u'ed  back  with  all  my  strength,  they  started  up  the  mountain 
siih — a  rather  steep  ura<h — al  a  pretty:: 1  irait.  liowlinir  and  si  rain- 
in  ir  in  1  heir  eagerness  to  catch  the  deer,  which  they  imagined  wouid 
afford  them  a  meal,  though  by  this  time  the  wind  had  increased  and 
the  snow  was  driving  so  thai  I  could  nol  see  In  van  Is  ahead.  1  he  do^s 
st  ill  had  the  scent. 

Jiisi  as  the  doe's  dashed  ahead  I  saw  the  t  wo  natives  stall  back,  and 
shouted  for  one  of  them  to  come  alonu'.  bin  I  saw  he  could  nol  c;i 
us.  and  the  blinding.'  snow  soon  shut  him  from  my  siuht.  The  do^s 
were  now  racinu  up  a  pre!  t\ " -t  eep  erade.  drauuinu  a  heavy  load  alone-, 
at  a  rale  I  would  have  thought  impossible  had  1  nol  actually  seen  it. 
and.  a>  I  did  nol  know  the  proper  trail  and  there  was  some  danger  of 
u'eltinu'  lost  in  t he  blizzard.  I  put  forth  every  endeavor  to  overi 
the  sled,  and  thus  stop  the  does  until  my  native  could  catch  up.  I 
found  I  was  unable  to  do  it.  however,  and  then  tried  the  plan  of  ruu- 
ri i i i Li'  ahead  and  throwing'  myself  down  on  the  head  doe>.  bin  the  re-' 
of  them  soon  dra^u'ed  the  traces  from  under  me.  and  the  whole  team 
would  start  ahead  auain.  Then  [  thought  if  I  could  ".el  nude 
sle(l  I  i-oiihl  raise  one  side  up  sllflicieiil  in  overturn  it.  so  I  waited 
until  I  had  cauii'hl  my  lireath.  and  then  ran  ahead,  threw  myself 
between  1  he  doe's,  cuiliilll  hold  of  t  he  m  idd  le  t  race,  a  ml  a.  Mow  ed  myself 
In  be  1 1  raided  a  Ion  l"  over  the  snow.  This  made  t  he  doiis  -lack  en  their 
pace,  bin  st  ill  did  nol  stop  I  hem  cut  i rely,  so  1  let  myself  back  toward 
the  -led.  -till  hold  in-'  on  to  the  t  ra«  e.  until  the  whole  of  my  body  as 
far  a-  my  shoulders  was  under  the  sled  between  the  runner-.  We 
were  not  li'oi iil1-  very  fast  now.  and  suddenly  let  1  iny  ji'o  of  the  trace.  I 
diiL'  my  hands  in  t  he  snow  .  ami  raised  my  back  at  t  he  same  i  hue.  This 
threw  the  sled  over  mi  one  runner,  which  capsized  it  and  Iii'oul"1i1  the 
'earn  to  a  full  slop.  As  soon  a-  1  regained  my  feel  ami  shook  the 
-now  out  of  my  (doilies  I  discovered  I  had  losi  my  mittens,  tobacco 
pouch,  and  cap.  in  the  operation,  but  these  articles  were  returned  to 
me  by  my  nai  i  ve.  who  soon  loomed  up  t  h  roiiu'h  t  he  dri  viiiL1  -now  .  [  I . 
had  followed  i  he  iraid<  of  the  sleil.  running'  a-  fast  as  In-  could  to  catch 
me.  and  had  picked  up  my  nii--im_:  article-  a-  he  came  alone.  I  »\ 
lid-  lime  He-  -now  had  covered  1  he  t  racks  of  the  deer  and  thedou's 
hail    lo-i   their  -cent,  and    I  soon   fell  alnio-1   -orr\    I    had   not    let    them 

keep  on.  for  1  he  I'esl  of  the  trip  Up  the  luoUlllaili  side  was  a  case  of 
"  ;.    l-ll       he   -led." 


CIU'ISE    OF    THE     I".  S.    KEVENUK    C UTTER    BEAU. 


19 


When  we  reached  the  suimnil  and  started  down  tin-  other  side  we 
found  tli«'  blizzard  was  local  and  eonfinod  to  the  side  of  the  mountain 
svo  had  just  come  up.  so  we  had  a  quick  trip  to  the  foot,  where  the 
(-J-overnment  deer  camp  was  established.  After  considerable  talking 
I  managed  to  secure  from  the  Lapp  herder  in  charge,  five  deer,  five 
sleds,  and  one  driver,  and  as  I  had  obtained  two  deer,  one  sled,  and  a 
drivel'  from  Mr,  llultberg,  I  returned  to  Koyuk  with  this  outfit, 
reaehi  ng  I  here  on  1  lie  oi  '1  h. 

I  found  upon  my  arrival  there  two  extra  dog  teams  thai  the  trader 
at  ITialakleel  had  managed  to  send  me,  so  I  now  had  three  dog  sleds 
and  four  deer  sleds  to  carry  my  load,  for  two  of  the  deer  sleds  were 
for  the  use  of  the  drivers,  ami  no  other  weight  could  be  put  on  them. 
The  next  two  days  m  violenl  wind  and  snowstorm  prevailed,  render- 
ing traveling  dangerous,  ami  it  was  not  until  February  -d  that  we 
finally  got  started  across  the  country  hound  for  Kotzcbue  Sound. 

On  t  lie  hills  along  the  shores  of  Xorton  Sound  and  I  Jay,  and  on  the 
hanks  of  the  fixers  (lowing  into  these  waters,  there  is  scrubby  pine 
and  spruce-  in  abundance,  from  I'nalaklik  to  (-rolovin  I  Jay,  'ait  after 
crossing  this  bay  to  the  wesl  shore  no  more  timber  is  seen  on  or  near 
the  coast   until  Ilotham  Inlet  is  reached. 

Two  hundred  pounds  were  put  on  each  of  the  deer  sleds  and  the 
remaining*'  '<•  divided  bet  ween  the  three  dog  sleds,  but  the  deer  prove*  1 
1  o  be  unequal  to  their  task,  and  two  days  later  we  were  obliged  to 
reduce  the  load  on  the  <\ci>v  sleds  to  lad  pounds  each,  t  ransf  erring  I  lie 
surplus  to  the  dog  sleds  which  were,  of  course,  getting  lighter  all  ihe 
t  ime  as  t  lie  dog  food  was  consumed.  We  traveled  along  the  Koyuk 
Kiver  the  firsl  day.  but.  as  the  snow  was  so  deep  and  sof*1  that  the 
dogs  sank  nearly  out  of  sight,  we  were  oblige*]  to  tramp  back  ami 
forth  on  our  suowshoes  ahead  of  the  dog  teams,  beating  down  the 
-now  to  enable  them  to  drag  the  sleds  along,  so  that  we  made  but 
la  miles  (luring  ihe  day.  ami  thai  night  camped  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  w  here  ihe  brush  was  thick  and  plenty  of  dead  st  icks  for  firewood 
was  available. 

The  next  day.  the  .'id.  we  had  much  the  same  soil  of  road  during 
the  forenoon,  but  after  we  had  stopped  in  the  middle  of  the  day  for 
something  to  eat.  the  guide  struck"  across  the  tundra  to  avoid  a  long 
bend  in  the  river,  and  we  found  the  going  very  much  better,  for  the 
wind  had  blow  n  away  the  loose  snow  during  The  night .  leaving  a  fairly 
hard  surface  totra\el  over.  We  were  now  Hearing  the  head  waters 
of  the  Koyuk.  and  began  to  come  across  isolated  clumps  of  scrubby 
pine  tree-,  iii  one  of  which  we  made  our  camp  for  the  night,  having 
traveled  about  :.'<•  miles  since  morning. 

On  ihe  4th  we  left  ihe  Koyuk  Kiver,  a  Her  a  few  hours*  travel,  ami 
struck  across  the  country,  reaching  that  night  the  banks  of  one  of 
the  small  streams  forming  the  head  waters  of  the  IJuekland  Kiver,  or, 
as  the  natives  call   it.  the  [vongak.      From  here  we  followed   the  gen- 


110  CHl'ISE    <»F     THE     l".    S.   REVENUE    CTTTEU     HEAR. 


eral  course  df  lllis  fixer  to  its  mouth,  keeping  inosl  of  the  time  Oil  tilt? 
hank  aii'l  cutting  across  1 1 1 « -  tundra  In  avoid  the  many  bends  ami 
twists  nf  iliis  winding  stream,  ami  finally  reached  Kscholt/  I  Jay  on 
the  evening  nf  1  he  st  h. 

The  eounlry  between  Norton  sound  ami  Kscholtz  I Jay  is  very  hilly 
ami  mountainous,  bin  when  not  traveling  on  the  rivers  mir  guide 
escape  I  <- 1  i inbing  any  of  the  mountains  by  leading  us  along  gentle 
rolling  valleys,  from  which  we  could  see  the  hills  ami  mountains 
surrounding  us.  apparently,  in  all  directions,  bin  the  guide  appeared 
t  ho  roughly  familial'  with  the  country,  for  lie  wound  in  and  out  anions' 
these  hills,  ami  generally  managed  to  keep  to  a  pretty  level  road. 
We  crossed  and  sometimes  followed  for  a  while  quite  a  number  of 
small  streams,  all  of  which  I  learned  were  tributary  to  either  the 
Koyuk  or  the  Uuekland  river.  Deer  moss  was  abundant  along  our 
entire  route,  and  the  guide  declared  thai  the  whole  of  the  surround- 
ing eounlry  was  of  the  same  character.  Indeed,  native  tradition  ha- 
il thai  in  pasl  year-  t  he  wild  deer  were  plentiful  in  thai  sect  ion  of  the 
eounlry.  and  even  of  late  years  small  scattering  herds  are  sometimes 
seen.  Along  i  he  rivers  brush  is  pi  cut  if  ill.  and  a  considerable  number 
of  small  scrubby  pine  1  rees  grow  on  the  hills  and  on  the  bank-  along 
the  upper  part  of  these  streams  near  their  head  waters. 

Ah  hough  the  country  through  which  the  guide  led  Us  wa>  prac- 
tically uninhabiled.  but  two  isolated  and  migratory  families  being 
in  ei  with,  we  came  across  several  clusters  of  old.  half-de>i  roved  mil  i  ve 
huts,   which    the    guide  told    me    used    to    be  villages,  and    for   each    of 

which  he  had  a  name.      The  | pie  who  used  to   live  here  were  either 

all  dead  or  had  removed  to  sonic  dislanl  part  of  the  country,  so  thai 
now  no  one  lived  peniianeiii  ly  on  these  two  rivers.  This  seemed 
si  range  to  me.  for  there  were  plenty  of  trees  for  firewood,  and  1  saw 
hu  ml  reds  of  t  rack  -  of'  fox.  beaver,  mart  in.  ami  ot  her  animals,  and  in 
the  summer  there  miisl    be  plenty  of   fish  in  the   rivers,  bin   the  guide 

offered    no    explanation    as    to    win     the    natives    had    left    such    - 1 

hunting1  grounds,  except  that  he  guessed  they  wanted  to  go  some- 
where else. 

When  we  lei't  Koyuk  I  was  anxious  as  to  how  the  combinai  ion  of 
deer  and  K-d<  i  nio  dogs  would  work,  for  t  he  latter  have  not  yd  1  came.  I 
to  appreciate  t  he  di  fie  re  nee  I  iet  w  ee||  the  d  oi  1 1  es1  i  c  a  n  d  the  wild  dee)', 
and  their  instinct  teaches  them  to  attack  a  '\*^-)-  whenever  'lew  come 
a  en  iss  ,  uie  of  them.  It  was  all  right  during  t  he  day.  for  then  the  (logs 
w  ei'e  ha  rtiess,.(|  to  t  he  sieds  a  ml  cou  hi  he  rest  rained,  bin  al  night .  when 
■  lie  dogs  were  turned  loose,  there  was  some  danger  of  I  hi  ■  111  geti  :  g 
.1  m  on  g  t  In-  i  leer  ami  either  killing  them  ur  <-n  u-i  ng  ;i  stampede       I'll  is 

as  surmount  ed.  however.   h\   driving    l  he  deer  l  ra  i  n  a   i 
iii't  w  o  to  ;  he  ici'un  rd   of  our  eainp  ami    picket  ing  t  he  deer  w  ii 

its   ,;•    a    g i    feeding    ground,   a-    by    'his   arrangement    tin-  dogs 

coiiid  not  scent  the  (jeer  ami  would  remain  ipiieih  al  the  'amp  all 
nigh'. 


curisr:  of  tin:   u.  s.  kevexi/e  cutter   i-.kai;. 


Ill 


During  1  his  l  rip  across  the  peninsular  I  was  niucli  surprise! I  to  find 
thai  the  performance  of  the  deer  was  no1  nearly  up  to  the  expecta- 
tions I  had  Conned  from  hearing  of  their  powers,  for  there  was  not  ;i 
single  day  thai  the  deer  train  was  able  to  keep  up  with  1  he  dog  1  can  is. 
and  frequently  we  were  in  camp  and  had  the  supper  prepared  long 
before  the  dec)'  hove  in  sight.  The  load  on  I  he  deer  sleds  was  v{>}-\ 
light  l  l)in  15t)  pounds),  and  the  moss  w  as  plent  iful :  yet  I  was  obliged 
in  remain  in  camp  one  day  on  t  lie  K  nek  land  Kiver  to  a  1  low  i  he  deer  to 
rest .  and  when  we  reached  the  mouth  of  I  he  river  the  drivers  informed 
me  that  the  deer  would  give  oiU  unless  they  had  anolher  days  resi 
before  going  on. 

At  the  moil  1  li  of  the  Kuckland  Kiver.  on  the  west  bank,  are  the 
remains  of  an  did  and  deserted  village  called  Inooktut,  and  about  a 
mile  fart  her  up  the  river  on  the  same  side  is  an  old  log  house  built  by 
a  while  trader  some  years  ago.  which  was  occupied,  when  we  arrived, 
by  an  old  native  man  and  woman,  together  with  their  one  son.  We 
camped  in  this  house  on  the  nighl  of  the  *th  and  remained  there  for 
the  whole  of  the  '.M  h  in  order  to  allow  the  deer  to  rest,  but  on  the 
evening  of  the  laHcr  day.  when  I  began  to  make  arrangements  for  the 
nexl  day's  move,  the  nat  i ves  with  me  refused  to  go  any  farther.  They 
would  give  no  reason  for  their  refusal,  which  was  quite  in  keeping 
with  the  native  custom,  for  when  they  make  up  their  minds  to  do  or 
not  to  do  a  certain  thing,  they  do  not  see  the  need  of  offering  any  reason 
for  their  act  ion.  if.  indeed,  they  have  a  reason  save  thai  of  following 
the  benl  of  their  inclinations.  Here  was  a  serious  slate  of  affairs,  for 
there  were  yel  some  so  or  !io  miles  to  be  traveled  before  reaching 
(ape  Klossom.  my  provisions  were  badly  needed  ai  thai  place,  and  1 
was  belli  ml  hand  as  ii  was.  owing  to  1  he  delay  in  gelt  ing  1  ran  sport  a  1  ion 
at  the  lead  of  Norton  Kay:  and  the  nearest  village  ai  which  I  would 
be  able  to  procure  more  dogs  was  several  days"  journey  from  here. 

My  interpreter,  a  half-breed  Russian,  had  been  listening  to  the  con- 
versation among  1  he  natives,  and  he  in  formed  me  he  drew  from  their 
talk  thai  they  realized  I  was  unable  to  obtain  other  means  of  trans- 
portation in  that  mil  -of-i  he-way  place,  and  thought  ii  was  a  good  time 
to  force  me  to  increase  1  heir  paw  thus  showing  a  marked  similarity  to 
the  ad  ions  of  some  of  t heir  more  enlightened  white  brethren  in  civili- 
/.ation.  Hut  there  was  no  help  for  it,  as  I  was  obliged  to  have  their 
t  earn-,  so  1  was  forced  to  listen  to  i  heir  demands.  They  linally  decided 
to  go  on  with  me  to  ( 'ape  I  Mossom  if  I  would  agree  to  pay  them  about 
double  t  he  original  consideral  ion.  and.  in  add  il  ion.  engage  t  he  sled  and 
team  belonging  to  i  he  old  man  in  whose  house  we  were  slaying.  Keini» 
anxious  to  go  on.  and  feeling  myself  entirely  dependent  upon  the 
assistance  of  llieir  learns,  for  the  deer  had  shown  their  inability  to 
carry  much  of  a  load.  I  agreed  1o  their  conditions,  but  made  a  mental 
reservation  to  hold  them  to  their  original  agreement  when  we  had 
reached  the  point  I  was  aiming  for  and  I  could  dispense  with  their 
slei  Is  and  services. 


11-2 


<  i;n-i:  of  the   r.  s.  revexpe  <  itter   leak. 


<  >n  tlif  NKirni iiii  nl'  February  1",  therefore,  we  wnv  again  on  the 
move.  and  after  t  raversing  Kscholtz  I  Jay  on  the  ice  we  crossed  the 
narrow  neck  of  land  on  the  southern  end  of  the  Choris  Peninsula, 
and  camped  for  the  night  on  the  shores  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  on  tin- 
site  of  a  desei'te<l  village,  which  furnished  us  with  lirewood.  The 
next  day  we  proceeded  along  the  shore  to  the  northward,  and  as  the 
ice  was  smooth  we  made  splendid  time,  reaching'  the  native  village  of 
Kikiktaruk.  about  lo  miles  north  of  Cape  IJlossom,  on  the  evening  of 
the  11th.  having  made  a  little  over  on  miles  during  the  day.  The 
deer  were  unable  to  travel  thai  distance  in  one  day,  so  the  drivers 
camped  on  the  way  and  reached  the  village  the  following  forenoon. 
Here  1  found  Rev.  Roberl  Samms,  a  Quaker  missionary,  with  his  wife 
and  young  lady  assistant .  ami.  having  learned  from  them  t  hat  neither 
you  nor  the  deer  herd  had  as  yet  passed  thai  way,  I  proceeded  to 
make  myself  as  comfortable  as  was  possible  in  my  tent,  for  their 
house  was  si)  very  small   that    it    barely  served    for  those  who  already 

occupied   it. 

At  this  place  there  are  bin  live  native  huts,  with  a  populai  ion  of 
some  t  hirty  people,  the  remnants  of  a  ouee  numerous  and  prosperous 
people.  Inn  t  he  scarcity  of  food  in  later  years  has  com  pel  led  the  migra- 
tion of  this  |  ribe  also,  so  thai  now  there  are  but  few  of  t  he  old  inhabi- 
tants left,  and  1  hey  are  so  very  poor  t  hal  star  vat  ion  almost  continually 
stares  them  in  the  face.  A  few  miles  to  the  southward  of  this  place 
is  what  is  known  as  the  '*  Rendezvous,*1  where  the  nat  ives  from  all 
over  the  count  rv  assemble  during  t  he  summer  months  to  trade  anions 
themselves  and  with  t  he  vessels  thai  happen  along.  They  even  come 
from  as  far  as  Kasi  Cape,  on  the  Siberian  coast  :  but  of  late  years  the 
influx  of  while  1 1  mm  i  into  1  he  co  u  nl  ry  has  lessened  t  he  necessity  for  1  he 
nat  ives  coming  so  far  to  t  rade  among  t  1mm  n  selves,  ami  where  in  former 
t  hues  l  here  were  at  t  his  summer  eneaiiipnuuil  many  1  hoi i sand--  of  peo- 
ple, now  I  j  tun  js  a  large  number,  and  1  his  number  is  growing  less  each 
yea  r. 

I  had  intended  to  settle  with  my  natives  ihc  next  day  and  -end 
'hmn  hack,  but  as  you  arrived  the  next  evening  1  turned  over  my 
whole  out  tit  to  you  at  thai  i  hue.  After  you  and  Dr.  Call  left  for  Coin l 
I  lope  cm  the  1  ,">t  h.  I  occupied  the  t  line,  while  wait  ing  for  Lopp  and  the 
<\<-i'\-  herd,  by  hauling  lirewood  from  the  mouth  of  the  N'oatuk  Ri\ei 
to  replace  t  ha1  which  we  had  used  from  Mr.  Saninfs  supply,  for  there 
«;h  no  drift  wood  nearer  to  1  he  village.  1  ha  n  over  on  the  mainland  ai  the 
mouth  of  the  a  bo\'e-iiMMi1  ioiied  river.  Mr.  Samms  t  hermonieier  was 
now  regi>i  ei'ing  between  :!.")  and  C>  below  zero,  and  as  I  was  obliged 
in  live  in  in\  i  en  i .  wail  ing  was  very  disagreeable  under  1  hese  condi- 
ii"ii-.  and  I  was  ver\  glad  when  Lopp  arrived  on  the  iMh.  lie  had 
crowed  on  the  ice  with  the  deei-  \\i')'<\  from  (ape  Kspenberg  to  Cape 
K  ru/fiistern.  reaching  the  latter  place  the  previous  morning. 

At  the  village  of  An  \  ok.  near  Kruzenstern.  he  was  given  your  lei  ter 
ug   him  where    I  was  waiting    for   him.  and    he    had   come   over  to 


CRUISE  OF  THE  1".  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


113 


Kikiktaruk  with  dog  teams,  leaving  his  deer  behind  for  a  rest.  As 
all  my  natives  and  their  teams  had  been  sent  hack  to  Koynk.  and  you 
had  taken  my  own  team  with  you.  I  1  raded  with  the  natives  of  K  ikik- 
taruk  for  a  sled  and  a  few  dogs,  upon  whicli  I  carried  my  personal 
outfit  and  camp  <i; ear,  and  on  the  l'.Mh  Lopp  and  I  started  for  Anyok, 
[jacking'  the  provisions  on  the  dog  teams  lie  had  brought,  awl  the  deer 
train  I  had  brought  with  me.  which,  according  to  your  instructions,  I 
still  retained  and  now  turned  over  to  Lopp  for  service  with  his  herd. 
He  was  very  glad  to  get  these  seven  extra  deer,  for  several  of  his  own 
sled  deer  had  died  since  leaving  Cape  Prince  of  Wales. 

We  reached  Anyok  on  the  evening  of  the  l'.Uh.  and  as  the  weather 
•lid  not  look  promising  it  was  decided  not  to  start  from  that  place 
until  t'ne  iMst.  by  which  time  the  deer  herd  would  be  pretty  well 
rested.  <)n  the  morning  of  the  -1st  the  sled  deer  were  caught  and 
harnessed,  the  sleds  packed,  and  the  whole  outfit  moved  up  the  coast  to 
the  westward,  I  keeping  with  Lopp,  but  having  my  own  dog  team  and 
guide,  so  as  not  to  add  to  his  load.  The  next  few  days  we  had  a  suc- 
cession of  violent  blizzards,  rendering  it  impossible  to  make  much 
headway,  and  causing  us  to  lose  two  whole  days,  during  which  time  it 
was  impossible  to  travel  at  all.  in  consequence  of  which  it  was  not 
until  the  -7\  h  that  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Kivalena  River.  Dur- 
ing one  of  these  storms  a  small  number  of  deer  became  separated 
from  the  main  herd  and  were  lost,  but  were  afterwards  recovered  and 
cared  for  as  set  forth  in  my  report  to  Captain  Tut  tie,  dated  July  1  ~>,  ls'.tS. 

In  accordance  with  your  instructions  I  now  parted  from  Lopp  and 
the  deer  herd  and  proceeded  up  the  coast  toward  Point  Hope.  When 
1  reached  Cape  Seppings  on  the  ->\\\  I  learned  from  some  natives 
that  you  had  gone  back  to  the  Kivalena  River  to  meet  Lopp.  so  I 
waited  there  until  your  return  on  March  i\  when  I  accompanied  you 
to  Point   Hope. 

From  Cape  Kruzenstern  to  Point  Hope  the  shore  is  lined  with  an 
almost  continual  succession  of  lagoons  from  two  to  five  miles  in  width, 
excepl  where  the  mountains  come  down  to  the  sea  at  Capes  Seppings 
and  Thompson.  These  lagoons  are  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  nar- 
row sand  spit,  which,  being  covered  with  snow  during  the  winter, 
forms  an  excellent  trail  along  which  to  travel  from  1  he  sound  to  Point 
Hope.  Some  of  these  lagoons  are  connected  by  small  openings  with 
the  sea,  but  the  most  of  them  are  entirely  isolated  and  are  really 
lakes.  On  the  inside,  where  the  foothills  begin,  the  deer  moss  is  abun- 
dant and  brush  is  plentiful,  especially  along  and  near  the  numerous 
small  streams  that  empty  into  these  lagoons;  but  while  there  are 
plenty  of  trees  about  the  mouths  of  the  Xoaluk  and  Kowak  rivers 
and  on  the  hills  as  far  as  Cape  Kruzenstern.  no  limber  is  seen  after 
leaving  thai  cape.  Even  along  the  Kivalena.  Kookpuk.  and  Pit- 
inegea  rivers  there  is  no  timber,  though  there  also  the  brush  is  plen- 
tiful. All  along  the  sand  spit  from  Kruzenstern  to  Point  Hope  drift- 
wood is  abundant,  and  is  replenished  each   year  by  the  trees  thai  the 


114 


CRUISE    OF    TIIK     l".   S.    REVENUE    Cl'TTER     BEAR. 


rivers  (lowing  into  t  lie  sound  bring  down  during  the  fresh  els  after  tin1 
ice  breaks  up  in  t  he  summer.  This  is  nat  lire's  provision  for  t  he  fuel 
for  t  he  Kskimo. 

Though  the  coast  from  Kru/.enstorn  to  ('ape  Soppings  is  uninhab- 
ited, we  came  across  the  remains  of  several  old  and  deserted  villages 
scat  1ei'e<l  a1  intervals  along  our  route,  and  my  guide  in  formed  me  that 
in  former  years  many  people  lived  along  these  shores,  and  gained 
their  living  by  hunting  the  seal,  walrus,  and  whale:  but  as  the  whale 
and  walrus  have  been  gradually  driven  norlh  by  the  vessels  hunting 
them,  these  people  have  been  obliged  to  migrate  to  better  hunting 
grounds,  and  are  now  scattered  about  in  di  (fere id  parts  of  1  he  count  ry. 

An  account  of  my  movements  and  services  from  the  time  of  my 
arrival  a1  Point  Hope  until  I  rejoined  the  Bear  the  following  .Inly  is 
detailed  in  the  report  to  Captain  Tuttle,  already  referred  to.  which 
report  was  made  in  accordance  with  the  written  instructions  with 
which  you  furnished  me,  prior  to  your  departure  from  Poinl  Nope  for 
Point    Harrow. 

Respectfully,  yours.  K.    P.    Pertholf. 

SicoiiiI   Ln  uh  tin  ill ,    /,.    ('.   S. 

Firsl    Lieut.   I).   II.  .I.XRVls,   R.  ('.  S.. 

(  'oui  iiki  ml  i  mi    ( )n  flu  in!    ]\iln  I'  K.rpi  il  il  urn . 


'REPORT  OE  Sl'RO.   s.   ./.    CALL.  R.   r.   N. 


Se  item her  1 .  is; is. 

Sir:  In  accordance  witli  your  instructions.  I  have  the  honor  to  sub- 
mit the  following  medical  report  of  the  Overland  Relief  Kxpedilion 
•  luring  the  eight  months  of  travel  and  isolation  from  the  time  we 
were  put  upon  the  beach  at  Cape  Vancouver,  December  Pi.  1 S 1 1 7 , 
until  the  P.  S.  Revenue  ('niter  lliar  arrived  and  returned  with  us 
August    Ml.   IS'.ts. 

Knowing  from  past  experience  in  the  Ai'ct  ic  1  hat  all  whaling  vessels. 
before  leaving  San  Francisco,  were  furnished  with  a  medical  chest 
containing  most  of  the  ordinary  medical  and  surgical  supplies.  I  did 
not  deem  il  necessary  to  take  more  medicines  than  were  needed 
for  our  own  immediate  use  and  thai  of  any  special  case  met  with  on 
I  he  t  ra  m  p.  My  out  lit .  1  he  re  fore,  consisted  of  a  small  leal  her  grip  eon  - 
laining.  besides  a  few  general  remedies  in  tabid   form,  the  following: 

;   pocket  surgical  case.  1  dozen  assorted  surgical  bandages, 

1   hypodermic  case.  .,  roll  isinglass  plaster. 

1  stetlioM-npe.  .■.  dozen  surgical  sponges, 

pound  lint.  !,  dozen  pair  snow  glasses. 

1  roll  rublier  adhesive  plaster.  1  inch.  ;';  dozen  toothbrushes, 

i   fever  t  heniionii'ter. 

<>n  account  of  the  prospect  ivo  low  teinperal  lire  t  lie  liquid  prepara- 
tions were  reduced  to  a  m i n i in u in.  and  were.  S  ounces  A.  ( '.  K.  inixt  ure. 


u 


4. 


< 


CRFISE    OF    THE     F.   S.    REVENUE    Cl'TTER     HEAR. 


115 


4  ounces  tincture  chloride  of  iron,  1  ounces  Friar  balsam,  and  one- 
third  dozen  extract   finger. 

The  medicine  grip  was  an  ol)ject  of  considerable  care,  and  was 
always  given  the  wanncsl  and  inosl  protected  part  of  the  sled,  tout, 
or  ka/.heem.  I>y  taking  this  precaution  none  of  the  liquid  medicines 
was  destroyed  by  freezing. 

Al  Tununak.  the  people  were  in  the  midst  of  an  epidemic  of  influ- 
enza, varying  in  intensity  from  the  nasal  and  laryngeal  catarrh  to  the 
more  serious  complications  of  bronchitis  and  pneumonia.  This  was 
quite  serious  ami  interfered  to  some  exlenl  in  the  selection  of  our 
guides,  as  in  the  case  of  Kaleniifs  son,  whose  attack  of  pneumonia 
compelled  him  to  remain  behind. 

The  stai'1  we  made  on  the  LSth  of  December,  l s  • '  7 .  and  while  those 
in  charge  of  the  expedition  continued  well,  the  natives  on  the  third 
and  fourth  day  began  to  show  signs  of  exhaustion.  Their  coughs 
grew  worse,  and  after  a  short  run  or  spell  at  the  lead,  they  would 
return  to  the  sleds  complaining  of  pains  in  the  head  and  chest  and 
remain  until  almost  driven  again  to  their  work.  Quinine  during  the 
day  and  Dover's  powders  at  night,  whh  an  occasional  dose  of  tincture 
of  ginger,  enabled  them  to  reach  Andreafski,  where  Karpa.  our  lead- 
ing guide,  was  left  in  the  hands  of  friends. 

At  the  Kennedy  River,  a  branch  of  the  Yukon,  where  the  steamers 
Alii-i,  Mfi'irin,  and  Dit'ijer  were  in  winter  quarters,  the  two  remain- 
ing natives  wIki  had  come  with  us  from  the  coast  were  pronounced 
unlit  for  further  travel  and  left  there.  This  epidemic  of  influenza 
must  have  spread  throughout  the  whole  Yukon  delta,  as  Lieutenant 
Bertholf  reports  that  he,  too,  was  much  annoyed  in  the  same  way  as 
ourselves,  and  before  reaching  St.  Michael  Alex.  Kaleniifs  attack  had 
resulted  in  pneumonia  and  became  so  serious  thai  the  patient  was 
carried  on  the  sled  from  (ape  Romanoff  to  St.  Michael,  where  lie 
remained  for  two  months  under  the  care  of  Dr.  Kdie,  the  post  surgeon. 

I  ~ini/:/ohl:.  January  7. — An  interesting  case  of  native  surgery  was 
met  with  here.  There  were  three  persons,  an  old  man.  his  wife,  and 
his  son.  occupying  t  wo  small  huts.  Noticing  thai  the  old  man's  legs 
were  off  a  1  the  middle  third,  I  inquired  t  he  cause,  and  was  told  by  the 
old  woman  that  a  few  years  ago  he  was  caught  out  in  a  blizzard  and 
had  his  feel  and  legs  frozen,  and  thai  later  she  had  chopped  off  the 
frozen  part  with  a  long  knife.  From  I'naktolik  across  and  along  the 
shores  of  Norton  Sound  to  (-rolovin  Hay  and  on  to  Poinl  Rodney, 
Art isarlook's  home,  there  was  no  call  from  the  expedition  for  my 
services. 

The  following  day  after  your  departure  from  Poinl  Rodney  your 
instructions  were  attended  to.  and  the  reindeer  herd  and  equipment 
gotten  under  way  to  join  you  northeast  of  (ape  Prince  of  Wales.  In 
these  eleven  days  nothing  serious  occurred.  Among  the  minor  inci- 
dents and  frostbites  that  gave  but   little  trouble  there  was  one.  how- 


116 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE     LT.   S.    REVENUE    (TTTER    HEAR. 


ever,  on  January  17.  which  taujrhl  me  a  lesson  thai  I  did  nm  soon  for- 
«jf**t ,  ami  I iv  which  others  may  [irofit .  We  were  slow  ly  advancing  ahuiir 
the  coast,  jusl  north  of  Apikt  all  u  k.  in  one  of  those  indescribable  bliz- 
zards will)  tin*  thermometer  •)•'  lielow  zcroatiil  the  velocity  i>t'  t  he  w  i  ml 
about  J-i  i  miles  an  hour.  The  deer  lines  attached  to  my  left  arm 
liecame  loose,  and  to  lighten  them  I  removed  my  deerskin  mil.  My 
hand  was  moisl  and  warm.  Im1  in  about  twenty  seconds  alter  coming 
in  contacl  with  the  cold  air  ii  had  lost  all  sensation,  and  required  ten 
or  lift  ecu  minutes  of  vigorous  slapping  to  restore  the  circulat  ion. 

Sim  rn i' if,  F'  lav n i ru  i>tlt. — This  marks  i  he  beij'inninn'  of  a  few  of  the 
most  interesting  days  of  our  tramp.  Perninyuk.  an  Kskiino  doctor. 
was  eiiii'au'ed  as  i>uide  to  Point  1  lope.  1 1  is  reputation  as  a  "  1ml;  nicdi- 
cine  man"  extends  from  Port  Clarence  to  Point  Nope,  and  before 
many  "sleeps"  had  passed  I  was  made  aware  of  my  insignificance. 
All  alonu'  the  route  he  was  asked  for  his  professional  services,  and  on 
several  occasions,  you  remember,  lie  became  so  eloquent  and  demon- 
strative that  we  were  compelled  to  ret  i re.  "Shamanism  "  is  fast  losing 
its  attraction,  and  superstitious  power  upon  the  younger  general  ion, 
lieinii'  practiced  now  mostly  by  the  older  generation  and  by  those 
ha  vi  hi;'  lit  t  le  intercourse  with  t  lie  white  people.  Formerly  this  Kskiino 
astrologer  was  all  powerful,  and  often  used  his  calling  as  a  means  ol 
Lcrat  i  fy  iiijn'  his  own  personal  desires  and  ambitions.  For  example,  ai 
Pi  out  Parrow  a  uat  i  ve  was  t  aken  sick  :  he  called  in  his  "  devil  dri\  er." 
t  he  doctor,  and  though  he  had  paid  him  well  for  tin1  few  seances,  he  did 
not  recover,  and  was  then  informed  by  the  doctor  that  the  compensa- 
tion was  loo  little  and  unless  he  paid  more  he  would  never  recover. 
The  "  shaman "'  levied  another  tax  of  whalebone,  ammunition,  fur. 
and  clothes,  and  soon  his  patient  was  able  to  be  around.  Then  the 
medical  attendant  informed  the  poor  man  that  unless  he  served  him 
for  1  wo  years,  body  and  soul,  yivinin' all  he  possessed  at  the  lime  and 
all  he  iniu'lil  earn  during  his  two  years  of  slavery,  he  would  auain 
suffer,  and  finally  die.  The  poor,  deluded  patient  served  his  time 
without  a  murmur,  and  even  if  the  demand  had  been  made  for  his 
wife  or  daughter  t  here  was  no  alternative  but   to  submit . 

As  in  the  shaman's  or  Kskimo's  belief  in  a  future  stale  there  is  lit- 
tle k  now  n.  Their  customs  so  met  inies  lead  one  to  think  1  hey  ex  peel  to 
return  to  earth  after  death,  as  the  folio wiiiir  incident  will  illustrate: 
A  Point  Hope  woman  died  before  Lriviim  birth  to  her  child.  Three 
days  afterwards,  three  or  four  old  women,  armed  with  their  Mint 
knives,  repaired  in  the  place  of  burial,  removed  the  body  of  the  child. 
and  buried  it.  lieinir  asked  wh\  lhe\  did  this,  t  hey  answered  thai  if 
a  woman  died  under  the  above  circumstances  she  could  not  return  to 
t  he  e;uM  h  a.Ltain  after  death.  They  have  no  concept  ion  of  the  Peitv. 
their  one  fear  beitm  the  devil's  power,  and  the  one  j^real  thought  and 
de-dre  iv  to  appease  the  wrath  of  hissatanic  majesty.  If  this  fails, 
then  t  hc\  rcsorl   to  means  to  frin'hten  hi  in.  and  t  his  accounts  for  1  hose 


CRUISE    OF    THE    U.   S.   REVENUE    ('UTTER     HEAR. 


117 


terrifying  dancing  costumes,  tils,  trances,  t  ricks,  and  sleight-of-hand 
performances  which  characterize  one  of  these  howling  meetings. 

I'aiiif  l>(t  rrotr,  April  1. — At  the  ]U  7  n  tit  r<  .  when  we  arrived  on  the 
I'l'.tli  ultimo,  there  were  seven  or  eighl  eases  of  disease  treated,  the 
mos1  serious  being  Captain  Millard,  who  had  Ween  dangerously  ill  all 
winter  wit  h  chi'onic  cyst  it  is. 

On  the.'jiith.  the  next  morning  after  our  arrival  at  Point  IJarrow, 
the  shipwrecked  men  and  their  quarters  were  inspected.  Those  few 
occupying  ipiarters  with  ('.  1).  Urower  and  K.  A.  Mollhenny  were,  in 
fairly  good  health.  Coming  to  the  old  '"  Kelly  house."  the  worst  state 
of  affairs  existed.  The  7"  or  so  men  were  in  a  most  pitiable  condi- 
tion. Their  white,  emaciated  faces  looked  like  specters  as  they  peered 
at  us  from  their  cold.  dark,  and  frosty  berths.  They  were  in  all  stages 
( if  weakness,  exhaustion,  and  despair.  Four  eases  of  scurvy  had  devel- 
oped, two  of  which  were  in  a  dangerous  stage  of  the  disease;  others 
complained  of  dysent  cry.  loss  of  appet  ite.  and  insomnia.  The  remedy 
was  close  at  hand,  and  consist  eel  of  removal,  better  food  and  clothing, 
and  t  he  enforcement  of  hygienic  regulations  and  exercise.  The  scurvy 
eases  were  put  upon  an  increasing  diet  of  fresh  meal,  and  tincture  of 
iron  and  lime  .juice  prescribed.  This  last  remedy,  being  on  hand  in 
limited  quantities  only,  was  reserved  for  such  eases  as  they  occurred. 
Under  this  new  regime  and  the  medical  treatment,  the  beneficial 
results  were  quickly  apparent,  and  before  the  month  of  April  had 
passed  all  t  he  seriously  sick  men  were  able  to  be  out  and  take  the 
prescribed  exercise. 

[)r.  Richmond  .Marsh,  the  Presbyterian  missionary,  up  to  this  time 
had  furnished  medicines  and  services  whenever  called  upon.  The 
doctor  received  me  kindly,  and  though  our  schools  differed  materi- 
ally, he  extended  to  me.  both  professionally  and  personally,  during  my 
stay  at  Point  IJarrow,  many  courtesies,  withoul  which  1  would  have 
worked  in  a  great  disadvantage,  lie  was  well  supplied  with  medicines 
and  surgical  apparatus,  all  of   which  he  freely  placed  at   my  disposal. 

Another  source  of  medical  supplies  "was  due  to  the  forethought  of 
Mr.  C.  I),  lii'owei'.  who  secured  from  the  wrecked  ship  Xtt  ra  rt-lt ,  on 
one  of  her  almost  miraculous  visits,  the  well-filled  medicine  chest  she 
had  on  board  and  transported  ii  to  his  house.  There  were  also  a  few 
medicines  a1  the  old  refuge  station,  the  remains  of  the  Government 
supply  before  the  station  was  abandoned.  These  were  handed  over 
to  me  by  Mr.  Mollhenny.  I  note  this  with  much  satisfaction,  as  the 
people  in  almost  every  village,  as  we  journeyed  overland  to  Point 
IJarrow.  required  my  professional  services  and  had  drawn  so  heavily 
on  my  medical  supplies  that  very  little  remained. 

About  April  in.  while  tearing  down  the  old  "Kelly  house."  some 
of  the  boards  containing  rusty  nails  were  left  lying  around,  and  the 
result  was  that  several  of  the  crew  were  seriously  crippled  with  punc- 
t  ured  feet . 


lis 


CRUISE    OE    THE     IT.   S.   REVENUE    CUTTER     BEAR. 


The  tooth  forceps  were  very  useful,  and  many  of  the  men  escaped 
nights  ami  days  of  torlure  by  the  removal  of  an  offending  "^rinilcr." 

Siiniliiij.  M<i(j  I.  -The  lirsl  nionlli  of  Covernmenl  and  medical 
supervision  sliowed  a  mosl  grat  i  lying  change  in  tliehealtli  and  spirits 
of  the  shipwrecked  crews,  and  the  only  serious  case  of  sickness  was 
thai  of  Lieutenant  Jar  vis.  who  was  attacked  on  the  111  li  instaul  with 
tonsilitis.  Il  proved  to  he  quite  serious  and  continued  for  a  week. 
necessitating  1  he  postponement  of  his  tour  of  inspection  of  the  ves- 
sels to  1  he  east  ward. 

TiK.sfhuj,  June  7. — About  !)  p.m.  an  Eskimo  arrived  from  the  ice 
pack  and  reported  to  Dr.  Marsh  that  one  of  their  boat  headers  had 
Ween  accidentally  shol  through  the  arm  with  a  whale  bomb.  The  doc- 
tor immediately  repaired  to  the  scene,  about  four  mi les  away,  and  found 
the  patient  almost  dead  from  hemorrhage,  the  bomb  having  passed 
through  the  wrist  of  the  left  hand.  The  "shaman'1  had  been  called. 
and  after  applying  a  tourniquet  around  the  arm  bet  ween  t  he  shoulder 
and  elbow,  outside  the  heavy  fur  clothing  (being  loosely  applied,  it 
failed  to  stop  the  flow  of  blood  ).  lie  began  his  customary  incantat  ions. 
Seeing  1  hat  the  devil  was  getting  the  better  of  him,  he  had  sent  1  he  (log 
team  for  help,  but  left  the  patient  alone  on  the  ice.  Dr.  Marsh  quickly 
applied  another  and  more  efficient  bandage,  placed  the  patient  on  the 
sled  and  brought  him  in;  but  by  the  time  he  reached  me  he  was  nearly 
dead  from  shock  and  loss  of  blood.  In  a  short  time,  after  the  hypo- 
dermics of  strychnine  and  brandy,  the  old  follow  slowly  raised  his 
head  and  feebly  announced  that  he  would  die.  The  wound  was  par- 
tially examined,  dressed,  and  the  man  made  comfortable  for  the  night , 
and  the  next  morning,  alter  a  thorough  examination,  il  was  decided 
not  1  o  ampul  at  e.  About  a  week  later,  being  obliged  to  make  a  trip 
to  the  eastward  to  inspect  the  vessels  there,  the  patient  was  left  in 
charge  of  Dr.  Marsh.  When  I  returned,  the  first  visit  was  to  see  the 
injured  man.  and  upon  asking  the  doctor  how  he  was.  he  replied  thai, 
against  his  instructions,  his  charge  had  consulted  a  "devil  driver," 
and  he  had  decided  not  to  do  anything  more  for  him.  The  patient's 
wound  showed  the  waul  of  daily  dressing,  and.  removing  him  near 
inv  quarters,  he  was  U-<\  and  treated  until  our  departure,  when  he 
had  so  far  recovered  thai  he  had  a  fairly  useful  hand.  In  order  to 
understand  the  nature  of  such  an  accident,  it  is  necessary  to  know 
just  what  a  whale  bomb  is.  These  project  iles  are  made  of  brass,  and 
a  re  about  1  o  inches  long  and  one  inch  in  diameter.  The  poinl  is  t  rian- 
gular  a  ml  has  1  hree  sharp  out  t  ing  edges.  1  he  head  having  a  one-eight  h 
inch  projecting  rim.  Considering  the  relation  of  the  eight  small 
bo  nes  of  t  he  carp  us  wit  h  t  he  bra  n  olios  of  the  radial  and  ulna  r  a  H  erics 
and  nerves,  it  seems  incredible  thai  such  an  instrument  should  pass 
through  these  parts  without  severing  one  of  the  main  arteries  and 
ca  using  ih-at  h   from  hemorrhage. 

(  M'ten.  one  is  sorely  templed  to  ail  opt  the  \h\  Marsh's  plan  of  dealing 
with    the    Eskimo   in    reference   to  shamanism,    for   while  there   is    no 


CRUISE  OF  THE  i\  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR.       119 


question  thai  it  is  useless  ami  very  often  docs  much  harm,  one  can  not 
m  a  day  change  or  destroy  the  native  habits  and  traditions  by  such 
methods  of  opposition,  any  more  than  can  one  expeet  his  missionary 
views  to  be  accepted  bv  many  of  the  while  residents,  if  one  adopts  a 
spirit  of  antagonism.  I  believe  the  final  result  of  medical  treatment 
and  care  of  this  man  did  more  to  weaken  his  faith  in  'he  "devil 
drivel  "  than  the  refusal  to  do  anything  for  him.  When  he  after- 
wards broughl  me  several  valuable  slabs  of  whalebone  as  payment 
for  my  services,  n  was.  of  course,  refused,  and  he  ihen  realized  that 
t  he  ■"  white  doctor"  was  an  improvement  in  many  ways  over  his  mil  i  ve 
'"  devil  dri  ver.  " 

On  Friday,  May  i)(k  Lieutenanl  Jarvis  returned  from  an  inspection 
lour  df  the  vessels,  and  soon  after  fell  an  "itching  and  lightness"" 
aboul  his  forehead.  lie  applied  a  cooling  lotion  containing,  among 
other  ingredients.  gum  tragacanth  ami  glycerine,  bin  his  forehead 
became  in  a  few  hours  twice  its  original  size,  yd  without  a  symptom 
of  pain.  This  condition  continued  to  increase  for  a  few  days,  and 
before  it  disappeared  the  affection  had  attacked  the  whole  face  and  at 
one  time  (dosed  Ids  eves  completely.  The  affection  was  one  of  local 
cellulitis  and  was  due  to  1  he  fad  thai  all  winter  his  forehead  had  been 
protected  from  exposure,  while  on  the  day  of  his  a rrival  from  this  last 
trip,  the  weather  being  unusually  warm,  he  had  thrown  back  the  hood 
of  his  "art  igge. "thus  permitting  the  dired  rays  of  the  sun  to  beat 
down  upon  his  brow.  The  1 1  eat  lneul  was  left  to  nature  cut  i rely,  and 
when  the  affection  reached  the  numerous  lymphat  ics  of  the  neck  it 
soon  disappeared. 

T/mrsiIfii/.  Mmj  ^;._At  [-JA't  p.  in.  I  left  the  house  on  a  sick  call 
to  the  vessels  ill  the  ice  pin  miles  to  1  he  eastward.  There  were  three 
sleds,  two  of  which  were  loaded  with  deer  meat,  and  the  third,  to 
which  1  was  assigned,  carried  food  for  the  dogs,  consisting  of  white 
whale  meat  obtained  during  ;i  recent  hunt.  The  weather  had  been 
mild  and  llie  -mow  was  sofl  and  slushy,  and  for  many  miles  we  were 
com  pel  lei  I  to  make  on  r  way  over  hummocks  of  ice  and  to  wade  t  h  rough 
depressions  filled  with  water.  We  finally  reached  the  first  vessel  on 
i  he  t  hi rd  day.  and  after  an  inspect  ion  of  1  he  ships  I  found  l  he  general 
hea  It  h  of  t  he  crews  fairly  good,  the  only  cases  requiring  my  ai  lent  ion 
being  one  of  nasal  polypus,  two  of  dysentery,  and  three  of  influenza. 
The  care  and  cleanliness  observed  on  these  vessels,  (.'specially  on  the 
X<  irnnri .  showed  that  their  captains  had  laken  every  precaution 
aga  insl   si'-k  uess  and  d  isease. 

Leaving  the  .\V/c^o/'/  and  l<Vn  ,-li  ss,  the  two  nearer  ships,  on  the 
night  of  the  mli.  I  arrived  at  Point  Harrow  about  midnight  on  ihedh. 
having  been  ;iwa\   on  this  -dek  call  twelve  days. 

'I'n,  Sihi //.  ./////,  /,  -The  usual  daily  medical  inspection  indicated  a 
vasi  improvement  in  the  men.  and  though  I  seldom  returned  without 
being  ('(insulted,  it  was  for  some  si i gin  acute  gast  rie  or  intestinal  affec- 
tion, which  was  of  i  em  porary  durai  ion  only.     Two  cases  of  pneumonia 


12i 


CKI'ISE    OF    THE     I'.    S.    KKVEMK    (  U'lTKK     BKAK. 


,'uihmiu  I  lie  Kskinios  occurred.  I » 1 1 1  as  in  each  case  only  a  small  area  of 
one  limit'  was  a fleeted,  they  nruvcivi!.  1  mention  this  because  never 
yel  anioliu'  these  people  have  1  me1  wit  1 1  a  case  of  double  pneumonia 
t  hal   was  n«)1   fatal. 

The  only  deal  h  al  Pom!  Harrow  which  I  have  in  reporl  is  lhal  of 
Philip  Mann,  who  died  suddenly  on  the  ice  aboul  7  p.  in.  .lime  >■. 
lie  was  a  l>ou  l  ai )  yt  ars  of  au'e  and.  having  symploms  of  1 1  cart  t  rouble, 
had  been  caiitiom'd  auainsl  eiurairhiii  in  any  violent  exercise.  Imme- 
diately after  eating  an  unusually  hearty  meal  he  assisted  in  si  a  nine, 
a  sled  and  beuan  running  alon;>-  with  t  he  out  lit .  when  he  sudden  1  v  fell 
upon  the  ic4'  and  expired.  Al  tic  autopsy,  which  I  performed  the 
next  day.  assisted  by  Dr.  Marsh,  il  was  ascertained  thai  lie  died  of 
fatty  heart. 

(  >n  Sat  u  rd  ay.  June  Jm  at  '.'.;}•>  a.  in.,  with  one  Kskinio.  1  sel  out  on 
a  sick  call  tn  t  he  /!>  In  den  .  lyiiijH'  in  the  i<'e  i>ii  miles  1o  the  southward. 
My  iMpiipineiil  consisted  of  live  dous  and  a  sled,  carrying  mi!-  sleeping 
ba.us.  food,  iiiedii-i  lies,  shotgun,  and  ammunition.  Then'  beinin'  no 
snow  mi  t  he  la  ml.  we  were  ci  mi  pel  led  to  lake  to  t  he  ice  alone-  t  he  coast . 
The  pasl  warm  weal  her.  melt  inii'  1  he  snow  ami  breaking  oii1  the  lake- 
and  hiju'ooiis.  had  covered  the  shore  ice  with  water  and  broken  it  up 
to  such  an  exlenl  thai  our  progress  was  slow  and  the  work  very  hard, 
so  that   we  were  three  days  in  reaching  the  ship. 

Captain  Millard  had  improved  y really  since  our  arrival  on  the  Jiitki 
of  lasl  March.  There  were  only  I  wo  ot  her  eases  i  e<  purine  t  real  nienl . 
one  of  dysentery  and  the  oilier  of  liearl  trouble.  I  bmiain  i  im '  here 
three  days.  I  h'l'l  mi  t  he  morn  in. li  of  t  he  :ji  u  li  ot  .1  une.  and.  after  anoi  her 
four  days  of  hard  haiilinu'  1  hroiiLih  1  he  rain  and  sleet.  I  arrive*  1  at  Poiul 
I  {arrow  July  '■'>.  havinu'  been  "one  nine  days. 

77///  i-sihi  ij,  Jul;/  .'a'.      In  tin'  pa  si   four   nionlhs  there  have  been  se\ 
era!    cliildbirt  lis   anions   the    Kskinios.  ami    their    inaiiaii'einenl    of    an 
acc<  Michel  i  lent .  when  compared  wit  h  our  civilized  met  hods,  is  ext  reimdy 
interesi  iuu.  if  nol  insl  rucl  ive. 

A>  a  rule  parliirition  anioliu  a  people  so  purely  natural  is  altended 
with  mi  bad  results,  but  when  ciisloms  and  t  radii  inns  prevenl  them 
from  extendinu  lo  I  hei  r  women  the  care  and  kindness  llmyum*  to 
their  do'_i>.  il  is  oflen  altended  with  fatal  coiise(piences,  Kver\ 
woman,  married  or  single,  nnisl  rely  upon  herself  entirely,  in  ihe 
lyiim-in  ■.imv  house.  When  the  lime  arrives,  she  nnisl  retire  lo 
-nine  hill  "I'  lent .  somet  iines  previously  prepared  for  her.  and  there 
U'i  lhroiie.li  the  ordeal  absolutely  alone.  Ii  may  be  many  deureo 
below  free/.inu'.  or  iii  the  I  o-.  ram.  and  si  eel  of  a  su  miner  blixxa  rd :  bin 
t  he  superb  ii  ion- of  deal  h.  bad  luck,  and  disaster,  a  re  so  firmly  grounded 
in  tic  minds  of  ihese  simple  folk,  lhal  nol  "lie  will  venluiv  near  her 
while  she  is  iii  trouble.  She  assumes  a  sipiat  t  in,";  position,  with  \\<-r 
knee-  apart  and  sometimes  sliuhlly  raised  b\  means  of  a  block  of 
wooi  I.  'fhe  |e^>  are  Ih'.xed  ii  pmi  t  lie  I  hi^'hs.  su  pport  i  lie.  '  1  In*  hips.  Thus 
she  aw  a  Us,  ami.  during  t  he  inl  ervn  Is  of  uteri  lie  spasms  she  pulls  from 


CRl'ISE    OF    THE     ('.   S.    UKVEXUK    CUTTKli    BEAK'. 


121 


her  1 1 end  eight  or  leu  hairs  and  plaits  them  into  t  he  lignt  ure  which  she 
will  use  in  tying  the  umbilical  cord.  I  "nlcss  sonic  previous  i  liter  fere  ncc 
wit li  the  life  of  the  child  has  been  attempted,  complications  seldom 
arise,  and  1  lie  first  stage  is  not  of  long  dn  rat  ion.  She  takes  the  human- 
hair  string  and  lies  the  cord  in  one  place,  and  cuts  il  with  a  flint 
knife,  it  being  considered  bad  luck  to  use  any  other  kind  of  knife. 
The  baby  is  rolled  in  a  piece  of  deerskin  and  laid  aside  until  the 
placenta  appears,  which  latter  is  disposed  of  by  hiding  it  away.  The 
mothe:' seems  to  have  suffered  little,  for  she  is  soon  up.  and.  the  devil's 
spell  being  broken,  she  is  now  permitted  to  receive  the  assistance  of 
her  friends.  I>ul  il  is  not  always  thus,  as  the  following  authentic 
cases  will  show : 

Case  !:  Cripple,  the  result  of  frostbite:  age,  2S;  pregnant;  unmar- 
ried: bright  and  industrious.  IJoth  legs  off  at  1  he  middle  third;  walks 
on  her  knees,  ma  king  sometimes  four  or  five  miles  a  day.  She  occupied 
a  hul  together  with  an  old  native,  and,  when  her  time  had  come,  he 
bust  led  her  out  in  a  blinding  snowstorm  and  closed  the  door.  Securing 
three  sticks  and  a  piece  of  canvas  she  quickly  made  herself  a  rude 
shelter,  where  her  child  was  born,  which  soon  froze  t  o  deal  h.  The  next 
morning  she  was  assisted  back  into  the  hul  by  the  whites,  when  1  he  old 
Eskimo  quickly  ret  ired  through  1  he  window,  ban' and  baggage,  declar- 
ing that  he  would  soon  die:  and  strange  to  say  he  actually  did  die 
within  three  weeks"  lime  from  that  day.  thus  verifying  the  native  pre- 
diction  of  death  to  all  who  assist  a  woman  in  childbirth  or  remain  in 
the  same  place  as  the  woman  during  any  part  of  thai  time. 

Case  -  :  While  a  parly  of  nat  ives  were  coming  from  the  interior  to  i  he 
coast,  one  of  1  lie  women,  being  pregnant,  was  unexpectedly  taken  sick. 
Instantly  all  hands  deserted  her.  and  she  was  left  alone  on  the  plain. 
Her  child  was  born,  but  the  placenta  failed  to  be  delivered.  Iloth 
mother  and  child  died,  and  the  scene  was  never  again  visited. 

Case:!:  Woman  returning  home  along  the  beach  gave  birth  to  a 
child.  She  removed  the  placenta,  placed  the  child  to  one  side  of 
the  trail,  and  then  proceeded  to  the  village  and  engage*  1  in  her  usual 
d  nl  ies.  Some  parties  afterwards  found  the  child,  which  had  died,  and 
buried  it . 

These  horrible  customs  are  no  respecter  of  persons,  and  the  most 
influential  are  often  subjected  tothis  same  inhuman  treatment.  The 
maternal  instinct  of  every  Eskimo  woman,  married  or  unmarried, 
generally  prevents  any  desire  to  destroy  her  offspring  before  or  after 
birth,  and  consequently  abortions  are  rare.  When,  however,  the 
destruction  of  the  fetus  is  attempted,  il  is  done  by  jumping  on  or 
kneading  the  abdomen,  or  by  giving  a  stroke  or  slap  over  these  parts. 
Violent  exercise,  work,  or  sport,  will  sometimes  cause  this  uninten- 
tional loss,  the  most   frequent  cause  being  the  blanket  tossing. 

Surgery  is  crudely  practiced  by  the  medicine  men,  and  their  treat- 
ment of  simple  fract  ures  is  deserving  of  considerable  credit .  Placing 
the  limb  in  as  natural  a   position   as  their  ignorance  of  anatomy  will 


122       CRUISE  OF  THE  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


admit,  limy  apply  strips  of  lliin  wood  or  whalebone  ami  secure  them 
with  bandages,  or  by  tyiney  I  )islooa1  ions  fare  badly,  and  their  nian- 
aeemenl  is  similar  to  thai  of  a  frad  lire,  t  he  resull  beine,  \  cr\  '  oft  en  a 
useless  limb. 

Hemorrhage  from  an  ex  1  rem  it  y  receives  a  con  si  rid  or  of  sonic  sorl . 
bnl  often  it  is  loosely  ami  improperly  a  pplic(l.  and  deat  h  is  i  he  result . 
Nature  in  surgery,  as  in  many  other  instances,  comes  to  their  re-eim. 
riicre  are  now  nat  ives  hobbl inc.'  around  at  I'oinl  Harrow  w  it  h  the  lo-s 
of  one  or  !)i)i  h  lcii's.  hands,  or  arms,  who  had  no  assistance  from  white 
men  or  a  sure-eon.  and  I  inighi  say  thai  almost  all  of  these  case-  are 
d  lie  to  frost  bile.  In  time,  t  lie  dead  and  fro/en  s1  nnip  having  inisi-nsi- 
tion.  is  ctil  and  chopped  away  by  some  member  of  the  fa  mil  v.  and 
after  a  lone;  and  slow-  process  of  granulation  ami  slon^hin^,  licalinu1 
follows.  For  some  reason  the  Eskimo  refuses  to  wear  artificial  limbs. 
Cases  operated  on  nearly  ten  years  au'o  are  still  on  their  knees,  and 
1  lie  anion  nt  of  work  and  1  ravel  in  e  t  hey  do  is  astonishing. 

P>efore  closine;  t  his  interest  i  i  i  Li*  subject.  I  in  list  speak  of  some  of  1  he 
amputations  performed  by  one  or  two  of  the  captain--  of  the  whaline 
fleet.  Their  fearlessness  and  t  lie  results  are  soniel  inics  remarkable, 
and  would  call  forth  the  praise  ol  our  most  expert  operator--.  I  men- 
tion in  1  his  connect  ion  (  apt .  ( icoi^c  I  J.  Leavitt .  who  la"  ely  ci  mi  ma  m  md 
the  steam   whaler  A '  n-purt.  who  wrote  as  follows: 

T  urn  Lrlad  f  have  the  dates  of  most  of  Tin-  ampntadons  -ince  tlie  ships  >-;m 
winti-rinii' at  [  Terscbel  [sland.  The  lirst  was  on  a  man  l>eh  nuMmr  t'  >  t:  1 1  -  -  .1/",//  /  >. 
Ili'iin  in  Marcli.  1S'.M.  llalt'  tin-  ritdit  feet  wa-  Taken  off.  the  instrument  u-"d 
ncinn1  a  hutch er  kni fe  ;.ad  a  hack  saw.  '  aptain  Tiitoii  In  i-s'u^  the  joh.  ft  \va- 
the  first  attempt  of  tlie  hind  up  there,  and  putting  the  panmif  under  chloroform 
which  was  >>ur  ef  our  line  wa-  a  slew  proces-.  \\m  placed  the  hot  tie  under  r  he 
man'-  nose,  nnd  after  lc  tool  taken  a  wdiit'f  we  would  a-k  Inm  it  he  w<-v-  -]>  ep\-. 
'fid-  was  kept  .p  fur  half  an  hour  without  any  effect.  We  then  made  ;1  paper 
cone,  pat  in  -  >me  wa-m  -at  u rated  with  chh  <v  'form,  and  tie-  man  went  riu'ht  off. 
If  was  a  cut  square  arm"  tlie  tout.  Aft.-i  tic  cutting,  the  ed_es  wc'"  drawn 
*■  '_■■•  her  a-  far  a-  1  icy  would  come  and  yauze.  well  ".Teased  placed  over  ■  : .-•  cur. 
followed  i iy  ah-urh>n1  ruttm  saturafed  with  Friar's  hal-ain.  After  mm  uay- 
•he  hanMaee-  were  removed  and  fresh  "ii-  put  mi  in  the  same  manner.  F<  >r  a 
wa-h  we  u-.-d  carh. .lie  acid.  It  turned  ..ur  well,  hut  the  hie  n>e.  or  the  hom-  m 
:  ■ : ur  Tue  eruw-  i  ni.  wa-  a  lonu'  time  healiii"'.  Two  larye  tees  and  thiee  fin"*er-  w.'iv 
ampniaied  rhe  -ame  month:  Tiltun  "lead  sur-feun."  and  Eodfi-ai  and  my-df 
a--istaut-. 

i/''/-'/«.'.        •   .      1'otli  fetu  .  ur  t  iie  iie-r  part  ef  heth  feet,  were  amputate  1  :r 
man  hidun-jije  to  tlie   \n rn-lml      Tla-e  feet    w.-re  taken   utf  w.dl   nack.  in.,   -ame 
way  a-  wdi  ii  the  i.rla  r  ampntatiun-.  with  the  ditference  that  after  the  f.  .ut   wa-  c  ;t 
*. .  'ii--  liujje.  a  piece  ut'  cauva-  wa-  pui  mi  and  the  flesh  liauh'd  hack'  and  tic  i  >•  <n<-< 
'  -■  "   'W    .a';'.      In   thi-   way  a    tlap  was  fuianeil.  and  tie-  wdiole  husine-s  tuned  nut 

'   •  TV    Wed    indeed. 

1>ii-' ml'  r  -.  -  '..—Six  linger-  and  three  tee-  were  amputamd  'ruin  a  man 
1 1-  iniuniii;  In  the  'II,  i-iisjii  r.  ( 'aptain  Tiltun  wa- the  head  -uricii.  wfiih-  jt.dtish 
and  m\  -••' ;'  wre  the  a-si-tant-. 

/>■'■■  ml"  r  .- .  ,'-•-".  Amputated  a  tineer  trum  the  riudit  hand  uf  Mr.  Tiltun.  tlie 
-'■      n  i  oftic  r  ot   tile  All  .ni  mil  r. 


CKFISE  OF  THE  V .   S.  REYKNTE  <  'I'TTER  BEAK        123 

Ffbniarji  ■',.  ISW. — Amputated  a  finger  from  a  man  belonging  to  the  .Jcdniwttc 

Fcbrtifirif  /,'.  IS'.n;, — Amputated  part  of  one  foot  from  a  man  belonging  to  the 
Brhiyii.  From  the  time  this  man  was  put  under  the  influence  of  chloroform  until 
he  came  to.  only  thirty  minutes  intervened.  Iodoform  was  the  only  antiseptic  I 
used  in  all  my  surgery.  After  such  operations  as  these  I  used  cocaine  or  morphine 
(whichever  I  happened  to  have'  to  deaden  the  pain,  using  from  half  to  a  full 
grain,  as  was  necessary.  My  next  big  contract  was  taking  off  the  right  arm  of 
Mr.  West,  the  third  officer  of  the  Xnnirrh.  on  June  '20,  lN'M.  The  arm  was 
amputated  a  few  inches  below  the  shoulder,  cleaning  off  all  the  burnt  flesh.  In 
putting  a  ligature  on  the  large  artery,  gut  was  used.  The  small  veins  were  touched 
with  caustic.  Aftei  bandaging  the  arm.  a  compress  was  kept  on,  in  case  of  acci- 
dent, until  the  ligature  was  removed.  On  the  2sth  of  June  1  had  to  make  a 
second  operation,  this  time  laying  open  the  whole  shoulder,  and  taking  the  bone 
off  to  within  an  inch  of  The  joint.  Disarticulation,  as  I  understand  it,  means 
un.iointing.  Well.  1  did  not  do  that,  but  left.  I  should  say,  one  inch  clear  of  the 
joint. 

The  other  case  of  amputation  of  the  arm  was  in  the  case  of  the  native  boy  you 
saw.  (  lutside  of  a  few  fingers  and  toes,  these  are  all  the  amputations  I  know  of 
on  whit''  men. 

From  December  '.)s.  1  *<).">.  all  surgical  work  was  done  by  me.  with  Captains 
Bodfish.  ( 'ook.  and  McKenna  assisting.  Chloroform  was  used  in  every  case,  with 
no  bad  results. 

All  Tiie  subjects  we  worked  on  have  Turned  out  well,  and  some  of  them  better 
than  the  case  you  saw.  I  have  not  studied  medicine  nor  done  any  dissecting,  nor 
had  I  ever  seen  anything  of  the  kind  done,  until  I  was  compelled  To  do  it  while  at 
Her-chel  Maud. 

Yours,  sincerely.  (tKokok  B.  Lkavitt. 

Snow  blindness  is  tlit'  most  t  roublesome  and  frequom  acute  affec- 
tion of  the  long  Arctic  day.  The  lii'st  cases  were  mel  with  about  the 
1st  of  May.  and  occurred  as  often  on  the  moist,  hazy  days  as  in  the 
bright,  (dear  weal  her.  The  onset  is  sudden  and  intensely  painful. 
Photophobia  and  oechyniosis  are  always  present  in  a  marked  degree. 
The  t  real  ineni  consists  of  rest .  smoked  glasses  of  di  fferent  degrees,  and 
a  mixture  eo  in  posed  of  cocaine,  grs.  viii.  and  boraeie  acid  (  powdered  ) 
gl's.  X.  and  water,  ?i.  Pse  1  or  a  drops  in  the  eye  every  two  or  three 
hours.  Most  of  the  eases  treated  were  natives  occupied  in  hauling 
deei'  meat    from  the  inferior  or  whaling  on   the  ice  Hoe. 

Milennial  ism.  I  believe,  is  rare,  the  most  pronounced  case  coming 
mole]-  mv  observation  being  thai  of  a  native  called  "'  Mobility."  He 
had  been  confined  to  his  bed  with  the  chronic  aid  ieular  variety,  for 
two  and  a  hall'  year--.  Little  remained  of  him  save  a  skidd  on  of  large 
and  distorted  joints  covered  with  skin,  reminding  one  of  an  Aleutian 
mummy. 

Influenza  attacks  the  natives  soon  after  t  he  snow  disappears  and 
again  .just  before  the  cold  and  frosts  of  winter.  Not  only  does  this 
occur  at  Point  Harrow  d u ring  these  months,  but  it  is  so  throughout 
I  he  whole  coast  of  Alaska  from  Attn  to  1  he  Mackenzie  River.  lake 
the  "grip,''  unless  co in]) beat  ions  arise  it  runs  a  short  and  mild  course. 
At  (  ape  Prince  of  "Wales,  however.  1  understood  from  Mr.  hop])  that 
t  he  attacks  were  o  uile  fatal.  I  '■'  men  having  died  t  his  spring.      For  1  he 


lL'4  ('Rl'ISK    OF    Till',     l".  S     KKVKNl'K    (TTTKK     I'.F.AH. 


coiiiili.  rmitis.  ;i  iii  I  headache,  so  l  roublesome  in  this  aft'eci  mn,  I  have 
found  the  following  prescription  an  excellent  one.  and  carry  ii  on 
board  in  la  rue  quant  ii  it's:  Amino,  nil  u\.  ~i :  codeine.  l:ts.  iii :  spts.  chlo- 
roform, "iii :  mist  lira-  elvcyrrh  coin  p..  ad.  ~  vi.  A  tnblespooufu!  1  hree 
t  inn's  a  day. 

Scurvy  seems  lo  confine  its  attacks,  so  far  as  my  observations  ^o. 
i  .  white  people  entirely.  I  quote  from  a  recent  authority,  who  says: 
■•Ii  i>  a  const  it  ut  ional  malady,  due  to  the  consumption  of  improper 
diei.  ami  especially  to  the  employment  of  a  diet  characterized  b\  the 
aiiseiice  of  vegetable?.:  "  audanain.  "  absence  of  variety  of  diet,  bail 
water,  poorly  ventilated  quarters,  and  iusullieient  exercise  favor  the 
development  of  i  his  disease."  all  of  which  is  i  rue  enoinxh  when  speak- 
ing of  the  hi.e'hly  de\'(doped  nervous  organization  of  the  while  race: 
but  for  ihe  plileuiiial  ic.  i  ndi  ffereiit .  nerveless  Kskimo  these  theories 
do  not  lmld  ii'ood.  Their  diet  is  not  a  varied  one.  and  vegetables  ai'e 
comparatively  unknown  to  them.  Their  houses  have  scarceh  an\ 
vent  i hit  ion.  winter  keeps  the  majority  (dose  indoors  wit  houl  exercise. 
and  the  water  in  summer  is  often  quite  bad.  Anion-  iheni  and  the 
nal  ives  of  t  he  Aleutian  Islands  I  have  met  wit  h  less  than  a  dozen  eases 
approaehiii".  this  disease.  These  were  in  children  from  one  to  six 
years  of  a^v.  and  there  was  some  doubt  about  the  diagnosis  boim: 
co, -reel.  Neither  do  these  people  have  any  opportunity  of  u^;n_ 
sodium  or  p  itassium  salts.  1  he  absence  of  which  is  n'i  ven  as  one  o|  t  he 
causes  of  the  malady.  The  consumption  of  quantities  of  uncooked 
f. i  id.  oils.  fats,  and  their  poorly  developed  nervous  organization  are 
certainly  i  in  [tort  ant  factors  in  producing  immunity  from  scurvy  umoiiu 
the  Kskimo. 

."syphilis,  except  in  the  sequehe.  was  Hot  seell  ainoni;  the  wrecked 
people.       There  was    one  case    of    neglected     specific     ;!':'is.    which     had 

lassed  t  hrouirh  the  acute  sta.u'e.  resulting  in  the  loss  of  vision  and 
idherenl  iris.  The  patient  did  not  improve  nndei  treatment. 
Vnion.u'  the  Kskimo  this  disease,  in  the  primary  sta.u'e.  is  not  met  with 
is  often  as  the  profession  and  laity  a  re  led  to  believe.  My  experience 
m  this  ,-o;ist  of  Alaska,  from  Point  Harrow  to  Attn,  dates  from  1  ^>A 
iml  I  must  confess  thai  I  never  yet  have  seen,  iii  a  unlive  of  either 
se\.  ilie  initial  lesion  of  this  disease  While  at  I'nalaska  for  nearly 
live  years.  1  visited  once  and  sometimes  twice  a  year,  professionally. 
e\  cry  village  from   Attn  to  St .   Michael.      Tin 1\  cases  of  1  his  nal  lire 

w  ere     I  Wo   I  |  |ei  1  her    of     1  lie  in     li  a  t  i  Ves  i .    o  1 1  e     of     the     sof  1    a  lid    one  o|'    the 

ha  id   variety,  the    hit  ter  beiny  on    I  he  lower  lip  of   a   1'orl  utruese   on    a 

passim:  whaler.  Those  laruc  deep,  dest  met  i  ve.  and  foul-smelling 
ulcers  so  frequently  seen  in  the  villages  oil  the  coast  of  the  Ale  ill  ian 
Islands  ma\  be  the  result  of  hereditary  syphilis;  yet  the  life,  habits, 
ipiaiiers.  and  food  of  the  people  in  these  sections  of  Alaska  arc  pro- 
ductive of  the  very  worst    tonus  of  the  scrofulilic  lesions. 

The  i  real  meiil  consists  in  keeping  1  he  ulcers  (dean,  t he  applieat  ion 
of  basiliein  ointment    to  the  ulcers,  and    the  internal  Use  of    iodide  of 


CRUISE    OF    THE     ('.   S.    REVENUE    Ct'TTEU     BEAK. 


1-25 


potassi  inn.  Very  few  cases  resist  this  t  real  nieiil  it'  conscient  iously 
earrie<l  out,  1ml  t lie  good  results  of  summer  are  only  temporary,  ami 
often  during  the  cold  and  inactive  winter  the  glandular  and  cellular 
tissues  again  break  down,  only  to  run  the  same  destructive  course. 

Sunburn  is  a  troublesome  affection  of  summer  only,  attacking 
usually  those  on  the  '"  flaw ""  engaged  in  whaling.  The  first  calm, 
bright,  warm  day.  with  the  glare  and  reflection  of  the  sun  on  the  ice. 
the  face  and  lips  are  seorehed.  Idle  following  day  may  be  one  of 
dampness  and  fog,  which  del  aches  l  he  bu  nil  epidermis  and  leaves  the 
true  skin  exposed.  This,  again,  before  twenty-four  hours,  may 
receive  the  bites  of  a  cold,  icy  wind,  which  cracks  deeply  this  tender 
surface  of  the  face  and  lips,  until  1  hey  have  the  appearance  of  having 
been  slashed  with  a  knife.  The  dark  skins  of  the  Kskiino  resist  the 
attacks  of  1  he  sun ;   yet   t  hey.  too,  show  considerable  peeling. 

Suicides  are  not  confined  to  wanner  climates,  for  we  had  1  hree  cases 
in  our  midst  to  record.  The  first  was-  -  Kelly,  one  of  the  men  of 
the  />'<  / >'<  'I'  r(-.  lie  had  been  suffering  from  an  incurable  malady, 
which,  with  the  gloomy  prospects  before  him,  had  so  worked  upon  his 
mind,  thai  in  a  lit  of  despondency  he  jumped  into  the  stern  hole  of 
his  vessel  and  was  drowned.  The  second  was  •■  Met  duly."  the  Kskiino 
mentioned  above.  Afflicted  with  chronic  articular  rheumatism  for 
nearly  three  years,  he  had  often  begged  his  friends  and  relatives  to 
kill  him  or  furnish  him  with  the  means  to  accomplish  the  end  him- 
self. After  months  of  waiting  his  opportunity  came.  His  little 
brothel's  were  playing  wit li  a  knife  near  him  and  left  i1  lying  within 
his  reach.  Anchylosis  of  his  elbows,  wrists,  and  lingers  prevented 
his  using  the  knife  upon  any  oilier  part  bin  the  supra-clavicular 
space.  Here  he  forced  it  downward,  and.  severing  the  subclavian 
artery,  soon  expired.  The  third  case  of  suicide  is  related  by  Mr. 
( '.  I).  Ib'ower.  and  was  one  of  the  ill-fated  crew  of  the  X"  ra  ,'r/t. 
Thirty  of  these  men,  after  abandoning  t  heir  ship,  had  attempted  to 
reach  the  shore,  and  all  bu1  fifteen  had  died  from  exhaustion  and 
starvation  before  they  were  finally  rescued.  The  one  in  question 
wrote  a  note  to  his  sisler.  and  then  gradually  fell  back  to  the  rear. 
where  he  soon  after  shot    himself. 

The  Kskiino  has  no  marriage  ceremony.  The  children's  future  in 
this  respect  is  arranged  at  an  early  age  by  the  parents,  and  at  the 
age  of  N  or  b')  the  girl  .joins  her  husband,  usually  at  his  home.  If 
children  are  born,  this  relation  is  faithfully  adhered  to  until  the  end: 
but  if  the  union  is  childless  the  man  seeks  another  wife.  If  there  is 
no  bet  rot  ha  1.  the  mot  her  of  the  young  man  seeks  a  bride  for  him.  and, 
when  found,  takes  her  home,  where  for  a  time  the  prospective  bride 
assumes  the  pari  of  a  servant,  under  the  direction  of  her  future 
parents-in-law.  If  the  young  man  is  pleased  with  the  domestic  capa- 
bilities of  the  girl,  the  compact  is  sealed,  and  with  the  dogs  and  sled 
the  couple  set  out  on  a  weddi  ng  I  rip  into  the  interior  to  engage  in  the 
annual  fishing  and  hunt  ing. 


12ft  CRl'ISK    OK    TIIK     I".   S.    RKVKNl'E     Cl'TTKR     lil'.Al;. 


Somet  hues,  it'  !  In-  w  i  I'c  is  Milky  ami  disobedient,  the  liusliaiid  a<l  min- 
isters in  her  a  sound  thrashing,  which  often,  instead  of  improving 
matters,  causes  her  to  run  away,  never  to  return. 

This  seldom  occurs,  however,  for  the  woman  is  too  valuable  a  pari 
of  the  Kskimo's  household  to  receive  any  other  than  the  besl  of  treat- 
ment. She  has  a  voice  in  all  1  he  home  councils,  and  no  1  rading  or  d  is]  to 
si  1  ion  of  goods  lakes  place  without  her  wishes  having'  been  consulted. 

Polygamy  is  noi  common,  though  if  a  man  is  influential  and  well 
!o  do  he  may  lake  an  extra  wife,  who  is  sub jed  to  the  win ms  and  con- 
trol of  his  first  choice,  which  latter  always  remains  the  ruling  queen 
of  the  establishment  and  the  mother  of  his  children.  The  Kskinio  is 
quite  generous  in  his  domest  ic  relations.  For  instance,  if  his  brother's 
wife  dies,  he  willingly  consents  to  a  division  of  his  own  household, 
and  presents  his  brother  with  one  of  his  wives.  Again,  if  a  man 
wishes  to  go  the  interior  to  hunt  and  fish,  and  his  own  wife  is  not 
strong  enough  to  endure  the  hardships  and  give  him  all  the  help 
required,  he  changes  wives  with  a  friend,  and  all  goes  well  during  the 
temporary  separal  ion. 

The  burial  of  the  dead  among  these  northern  tribes  differs  ver\ 
much  from  that  of  the  natives  of  southeastern  Alaska,  where  crema- 
tion was  once  universally  practiced.  There  was  one  exception,  how- 
ever thai  of  the  medicine  man.  lie  being  possessed  of  a  power  and 
spirit  which  they  wished  to  preserve,  his  body  was  hidden  in  the 
cliffs.  Wherever  civilized  teachings  and  influences  have  been  intro- 
duced, the  dead  are  placed  beneath  the  surface,  and  though  the  cere 
niony  of  disposing  of  the  remains  of  the  Kskinio  may  differ,  there  is 
one  thought  which  seems  in  be  uppermost  in  their  minds,  and  that  is 
to  place  the  body  where  it  may  not  lie  seen  and  is  protected  from 
their  dons  and  t  he  wild  ani  mals. 

Al  Si.  Lawrence.  King,  and  the  Dioniede  Islands  the  dead  are  hid- 
den among  the  rocks  and  cliffs,  wrapped  in  their  deerskins,  and  all 
their  belongings,  such  as  beads,  finger  rings,  bracelets,  and  tobacco. 
an-  -l  ri'wn  about   l  he  body. 

The  (huckche  deernieii  of  norl  heasi  ern  Siberia  place  the  corpse 
and  all  its  belongings  on  ihe  sled,  and  after  slaughtering  the  dead 
man's  best  deer,  the  horns  are  added  to  the  oulfil  and  hauled  several 
miles  from  the  village.  Here  the  horns  are  placed  a1  one  end  of 
oblong  formation  of  rocks  surrounding  the  body,  which  lies  on  the 
top  of  the  ground.  Several  of  these  oblongs  are  also  seen  near  ihe 
ba-e  of  ihe  granite  cliffs  about  a  mile  from  ihe  present  village  on  Si . 
Law  rence  Island. 

(in  Sledge  Island,  which  is  a  shorl  distance  from  the  mainland  ol 
Alaska,  is  found  the  nearesl  approach  lo  a  coffin.  The  bodies  are 
hidden  in  boxes  made  of  poles  and  logs  of  drift  wood,  and  slighth 
elevated.  Several  masks  of  the  medicine  men  can  be  found  around 
the  l:  ra  ve>. 

Along   ihe    Peach    of   the    coast    of    the    lierinu'   Sea    and    the    Arctic 


v?r 


■<:.&-■' 


CRITSE  OF  THE  U.  S  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


127 


Ocean  one  sees  poles  and  logs  of  driftwood  set  upon  cud  in  conical 
piles.  Kach  of  these  piles  surrounds  an  Eskimo  body.  These  monu- 
ments are  sacred,  and  will  not  be  disturbed  or  used  for  fuel  unless 
the  native,  from  association  with  white  people,  has  lost  his  fear  of 
the  consequences. 

The  most  interesting  graveyard  in  Alaska  is  at  Point  Hope.  It  is 
situated  about  a  mile  from  the  village,  on  slightly  elevated  ridges  of 
sand  and  gravel  covering  the  undulations  of  an  extinct  glacier.  .Most  of 
the  bodies  are  raised  four  to  six  feel  from  the  ground  and  supported 
with  structures  made  preferably  of  the  jaws  and  ribs  of  the  whale,  while 
others  are  constructed  of  driftwood.  Should  a  death  occur  in  winter, 
when  the  snow  lies  on  the  ground  hard  and  dee]),  the  bodies  are  laid 
out  on  the  surface  until  the  summer,  when  the  snow  disappears  and 
enables  the  relatives  to  find  material  to  build  one  of  their  scaffolds,  on 
which  the  body  is  then  placed.  The  most  reasonable  explanation  for 
this  method  of  disposing  of  the  dead  and  that  of  leaving  them  on  the 
surface  is  that  the  ground  is  always  frozen  hard  even  in  summer  and 
the  thaw  never  extends  deeper  than  1  2  to  IS  inches.  These  elevated 
graves  are  in  all  stages  of  ruin  and  decay,  and  scattered  about  beneath 
them,  almost  entirely  hidden  by  the  beautiful  forget-me-nots,  are  the 
bones  and  skulls  of  the  dead  of  many  past  generations. 

A1  Poinl  I>arrow  the  bodies  are  now  generally  inclosed  in  boxes 
made  of  Lumber  furnished  by  whites,  and.  owing  to  the  influence  ot 
the  missionaries  a  few  are  buried. 

Some  of  1  he  most  serious  cases  treated  at  Point  Barrow  from  March 
i".i  to  Augusl  1.  ls'.is,  are.  Abscess,  pelvic,  I:  abscess,  axillary,  1: 
anannia.  •'!;  bronchitis,?:  corneitis,  5;  constipation,  lo;  dysentery,  2: 
heart  disease.  2:  influenza,  _<>;  iritis,  specific,  1;  laryngitis,  chronic, 
1  ;  nasal  polypus,  1  ;  neuralgia,  U;  pneumonia.  ■!:  rheumatism,  4:  snow 
blindness,  ).'!;  suicide,  2:  syphilis,  hereditary,  '•»:  scurvy,  4;  diseased 
teeth  extracted,  11;  tonsilitis,  4:  wounds,  gunshot,  1;  wounds,  punc- 
t  ured,  ii;   won  nds,  incised,  7. 

It  is  not  alone  in  city  offices  hung  with  gilded  pictures,  or  waiting 
rooms  filled  with  rich  and  appreciative  patients,  that  the  pleasure 
and  comfort  of  1  he  practice  of  medicine  is  found.  There  is  no  port  ion 
of  the  habitable  world,  from  the  most  learned  and  scientific  of  the 
Old  to  the  simple  and  primitive  of  t lie  New,  but  that  recognizes  and 
receives  with  gratitude  1he  services  of  a  true  and  conscientious  phy- 
sician, and  though  the  good-natured  and  docile  Eskimo  may  not  be 
able  to  express  in  words  his  pleasure  for  what  you  have  done,  he  pos- 
sesses facial  expression  and  gesl ures  which  are  unmistakable,  and  tell 
you  without  doubt  that  for  you  services,  if  he  possessed  it,  he  would 
lay  at  your  feel  the  whole  world,  and  therein  lies  your  compensation. 

Respect  fully,  yours, 

S.   .1.    ('all.  SmyntH,  H.   C.  S. 

First   Lieut.  1).  II.  .Iarvis,  R.  (  .  >.. 

( 'mil  nni  ml i  in/   (  )f(  fin  iid    Rt-ln1    K.rpiil  it  toil. 


MoVKMKNTS  OF  THE  RKAIi  SIM  K  .11  \K  •>:•}.  Isiis. 


I'NIi'KD    STATKS     IiKVKXIK    (1    T II-;  1;     IlKAK. 

Seiitfh  .     Wash..   Seph  nil»    '    /■'.    /V'/V. 

Sn;:  I  have  1  lit*  honor  to  report  the  arrival  of  the  I".  S.  revenue 
si  earner  lit a  r  at  Seattle,  Wash.,  at  11  a.  m..  September  1  •'!.  I  v'ls.  I'nun 
Point  Harrow.  Alaska,  with  the  members  of  the  overland  relief  expe- 
dition and  the  oftieers  and  seamen  from  the  \v reeked  wlnilers  < > 
Jf  ssi  H.  Fit  i iiki  ii .  Rush  rio,  .\'"'"/''7/.  and  tile  sehooiier  L.  ./.  K<  n  < 
of  Seattle,  wrecked  al  Point  Hope.  Alaska.  AuiiUsI  I'.t.  Is'.ts.  a!M|  | 
res[)ect  fully  su  bin  ii  t  lie  following  report  of  the  nio\"emenls  of  t  he  H<  <>  <■ 
since  my  letter  of  .III  lie  i'.'5.  da  lei  I  at   Si .    Mieliael : 

Such  art  icles  as  Lieuteiianl  .Farvis  had  mentioned  as  heinv;  indis- 
pensable were,  so  far  as  obtainable,  procured  a1  Si .  Michael,  and  lli-v, 
leather  IJarnuin.  of  the  Catholic  mission,  came  on  board  al  ihai  [ilace 
for  passau'e  as  my  .u'uest .  i  !a  \  i  nu  informal  ion  that  the  mail  w  'as  l  o  We 
(hdayed  at  ("nalaska  for  an  imhdinite  time.  I  concluded  to  start  I'm 
the  north,  and  left   St.   Michael  al   4. .'So  p.   in..  July  7. 

<  )n  the  M  h  a  shorl  stop  was  made  a  1    Ixin^'s  Island,  where  1  he  nal  i  ves 

were  found  in  e; 1  condition.      From   Kind's  Island  proceeded  to  Port 

Clarence,  which  was  reached  at  a.-Vi  a.  in..  .Inly  '.'.  Four  vessels  ol 
the  whalinu  Heel  and  three  for  Kotzebtie  Sound  thai  were  found  ,i1 
anchor  there  were  hoarded  and  examined. 

<  In  I  he  loth,  while  on  the  way  to  t  he  watering  place,  a  si  up  w  as  made 
al  the  reindeer  station.  Mr.  IJreviii'  had  idven  ottl  so  much  of  his 
provisions  on  orders  of  t  he  overland  expedit  ion  t  hai  he  was  now  shorl 
himself,  so  I  li'avc  'ini  ■'><">  pounds  of  Hour  and  a  pounds  of  tea.  eredil 
lo;-  which  will  he  n'iven  ill  his  bill  nuainsi  t  he  o\  erhllld  ex  pedit  ion. 
From  the  reindeer  station  proceeded  to  the  walerinc;  place  to  the 
sou  1  h  ward  of  ( 'ape  Uiley.  reach  i  n.u'  1  here  I  1 .-'!' >  a.  in.  The  hoiler  was 
Mow  n  dow  n  and  watering  ship  commenced.  Hoiler  was  refilled  and 
the  I'resli-waler  tanks  were  full  a.  in.  of  the  li'lh.  Steam  was  raised 
and  at  i\oa  p.  m.  yoi  under  way  for  l'oi:.:  dpencer.  anchoring  there 
at    !._•"'   p.   m. 

I  >  urine;  our  absence  from  the  watering  place  t  he  si  earner  77/  •■>is/n  . 
from  San  Francisco,  with  supplies  for  the  whalers  in  tin-  north,  and 
the  schooner  Unim ,,-.n .  with  supplies  for  II.  Liebos's  iradinu  slatioiis 
in  I  he  north,  arrived.  Mr.  KollchofT,  who  was  laiuled  with  the  over- 
land  expedition   at    (ape  Vancouver,    came    up  on    the    Thrnslit  r  and 


CKflSE  OF  THE  1*.  s.  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR.       12!) 

came  on  It  tare  1  the  Bear\:>  report.  I  had  heard  incidentally  while  al 
Si.  .Michael  thai  Lieut  enanl  Bu'iholf,  in  obedience  to  orders  from 
Lieutenant  .larvis.  had  discharged  Ivoltehoff  at  St.  Michael  on  Jan- 
uary 1.  Instead  of  reporting  at  the  reindeer  station  at  1'nalaklik 
as  ordered,  he  had  gone  overland  with  .Mi-.  Tilton,  who  came  down 
from  t lie  wrecked  whalers.  K  tltcliofT  said  Lieutenant  Berlholf  had 
given  him  a  paper,  the  contents  of  which  he  claimed  to  he  ignorant 
which  lie  had  given  to  Lieutenant-Colonel  Randall,  United  States 
Army,  commanding' at  Port  St.  Michael,  and  thai  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Randall,  with  Mr.  Shepard,  agent  of  the  Xorth  American  Trading  and 
Transportation  Company  at  Fort  Get  There,  had  sent  him  to  assist 
Mr.  Tillou  to  carry  out  the  mail.  I  told  Mr.  Ivoltehoff  that  he  had 
better  go  1o  the  l'ort  Clarence  reindeer  station  and  await  the  arrival 
of  Dr.  .Jackson,  who  was  daily  expected. 

On  the  llnrnr.ii  were  two  natives  from  Point  I  [ope  who  had  accom- 
panied Mr.  Tilton  from  Point  Hope  to  San  Francisco.  II.  Liebes  &, 
Co.  had  provided  for  them  after  their  arrival  at  San  Francisco  and 
sent  them  back  on  the  schooner  Bonanza.  As  the  ice  might  prevent 
the  Bonanza  from  gett iiiii'  to  Point  [[ope  for  sonic  time,  transporta- 
tion was  given  them  on  the  Bear. 

At  11. on  [>.  in.  July  [2  go1  under  way  and  stood  for  Cape  Prince 
of  Wales.  Anchor  was  let  go  off  the  cape  at  5.15  a.  in.  July  L3,  when 
Rev.  Mr.  Lop]>  and  natives  came  on  board.  Delivered  to  them  such 
articles  as  we  hail  been  able  to  procure  at  St.  Michael.  An  account 
of  all  articles  purchased!  or  delivered  from  the  ship's  stores,  also  of 
what  is  now  d ne  to  people  iii  the  north  on  account  of  services  ren- 
dered to  1  he  overland  expedition,  is  being  prepared  by  Lieutenant  Jar- 
vis,  who  can  not  finish  it  until  lie  lias  conferred  with  II.  Li  cites  it  Co., 
at  San  Francisco,  in  regard  to  prices,  as  their  agent  at  Point  Barrow 
had  instructions  not  to  set  any  prices.  That  would  be  done  at  San 
Francisco  when  his  accounl  of  expenditures  to  the  shipwrecked  men 
reached  the  office.  II.  Liebes  &  Co.'s  agenl  at  Point  Hope  charged 
some  prices  thai  appeared  too  high.  Lieutenant  Jarvis  has  a  copy  of 
his  bill  and  will  endeavor  to  have  Liebes  it  Co.  make  some  red  net  ion. 

At  li.liia.  m.  .July  F>  got  under  way  and  stood  into  Bering  Straits. 
At  noon  stood  to  the  eastward  for  Kotzebue  Sound,  which  place  was 
reached  and  an  anchorage  made  oil'  Cape  Blossom  at  :?.:}<)  p.  m.  Three 
barks  at  the  anchorage  were  boarded  and  examined.  They  were 
loaded  with  prospectors  and  their  supplies,  bound  for  the  rivers  (low- 
ing into  I  lot  ham  Inlet .  A  native  present  ed  an  order  from  Lieu  tenant 
Jarvis,  which  was  filled.  I  could  not  learn  thai  there  were  any  more 
natives  on  board  who  had  orders,  but  heard  thai  some  on  shore  had 
them.  As  it  was  aboul  1<>  miles  to  tin1  village,  I  could  not  wait  for 
them  to  come  off.  so  at  ( » . i?< '  p.  in.  go1  under  way  and  stood  for  Point 
Hope.  At  li.i'n  p.  in.  July  15  anchored  off  Nelson's  trading  station. 
between  Cape  Thompson  and   Point   Hope,  where  Lieutenant   Bertholf 


130 


CKI'ISE    OF    THE     !".   S.   KEVENt'E    (I'TTEK     I'.EAK. 


roporlod  cm  hoard.  lie  had  made  Nelson's  house  his  headquarters 
since  his  arrival  at  the  station.  The  two  natives  hrought  from  Port 
Clarence  were  landed  here.  Lieutenant  Bertholf  had  carried  oul  his 
inst  ruct  ions  (a  copy  of  which  is  appended)  in  a  manner  which  met 
in  y  en  1  ire  approhat  ion.  In  add  it  ion  to  caring  for  t  he  st  raved  deer  he 
had  d  est  roved  ;  he  st  ills  used  hy  the  nat  i  ves  in  in  ami  fact  uring  lienor, 
and  his  presence  prevented  any  of  the  while  residents  from  entering 
into  1  he  man  ut'acl  are  of  it . 

At  !».(!.")  a.  in.  July  10  got  under  way  and  steamed  for  Poinl  Hope, 
anchoring  off  t  he  village  t  here  at  1  1  .<  la  a.  m.  Coin  muni  eat  ed  wit  h  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Driggs,  in  charge  of  the  Episcopal  Mission.  No  whales 
having  heen  taken  in  1  he  spring  whaling,  the  natives  would  he  very 
shorl  of  food  during  t  he  coming  winter,  and  nearly  all  of  them  had 
gone  down  the  coast  to  endeavor  to  ealch  a  supply  of  salmon  for 
winter  use.  At  l._'i  p.  m.  steamed  to  1  he  laches'  stat  ion  and  anchored 
for  the  night . 

At  '.'.  h")  a.  in.  .Inly  17  steamed  to  Nelson's  station  and  look  on 
hoard  a  nat  ive.  who  asked  to  he  taken  to  Point  Barrow,  and  a1  I..'P> 
steamed  to  1  he  nort  hward  around  I'oinl  Hope.  At  1  1 . 1  ti  p.  m.  passed 
Cape  Lishurne  and  sighted  the  lirst  drift  ice  seen  in  the  Arctic. 
Laid  course  to  make  the  land  het  ween  Point  Lay  and  ('ape  Beau  fori. 
in  order  to  meet  any  hoats  Lieiitennnl  .larvis  ntigln  have  sent  from 
Point    Barrow. 

Ati  -  p.  in.  July  Is  made  the  land  to  the  southward  of  Point  lav 
and  steamed  along  in  sighl  of  the  heach,  keeping  a  good  lookout  for 
signals  or  boa  1 .  At  I.-1 '  p.  m.  anchored  off  a  nat  ive  village  i  o  soul  h- 
ward  of  Point  Lay.  where  natives  came  on  hoard  and  reported  that 
no  whit  e  men   had   passed   hy. 

At  i'.l"ia.  in.  July  li*  under  way  to  the  nort  hward.  and  at  >'■■  a.  m. 
sigliicda  native  hoat  coming  off  1  h  rough  t  he  ice.  It  came  aioni:»ide 
at  ii..')0,  and  contained  a  parly  from  Point  Barrow  .  sent  h_\  Lieutenant 
Jarvis,  in  charge  of  (apt.  A.  ('.  Sherinan.  of  the  wrecked  steamer 
()rc(i.  The  parly  was  taken  on  hoard,  wit  h  1  heir  hoat .  and  the  \  essel 
proceed ei  1  to  within  .">  miles  of  Icy  Cape,  where  we  came  to  anchor  at 
-.'■)•")  p.   in.  on  account   of  heavy  ice  ahead. 

Lieut  ena  in  Jarvis  informed  me  that  t  he  schooner  I'o.sn  r/a  had  heen 
crushed  hy  the  ice  on  July  '2:  crew  all  saved.  His  last  information 
from  the  vessels  in  the  eastward  of  Point  Barrow  was  on  June  pi, 
and  at  that  lime  t  hey  were  all  right.  The  I>>  I  re<l<  r<  was  all  right  on 
Pine  hi.  hut  shorl  of  provisions,  and  Lieutenant  Jarvis  Imped  (  could 
gel  some  to  her.  where  she  lay.  at  the  Sea  Horse  Islands,  some  so 
miles  from  Icy  ('ape.  The  men  at  Point  Barrow  were  all  right.  »\ilh 
provisions  enough  to  last  until  August  la.  If  the  lUnr  did  nol 
a  rri  ve  hy  Autrusl  1 .  he  t  hough  t  it  hesl  to  start  some  of  1  hem  down  t  lie 
c(  ia-sl    1  o   meet    the   vessel. 

At    ■[.'.)')  a.   m.  July  l'o    made   an    attenipl    to  gel    through    the    ice   to 


('Kl'ISE    OF    THE    r.   s     KE VENUE    Cl'TTEK     l',EAK. 


131 


the  northwestward.  Worked  until  2.20  p.  in.,  when  tin;  at  tempi  was 
given  iii).  and  stood  tolhe  sontliward  until  lo  p.  in.  before  getting 
clear  of  the  ice;    1 1.40  p.  m.  anchored  to  the  sou  t  li  ward  of  Point   Lay. 

On  the  21st  fresh  northerly  winds  and  drift  outside  kepi  us  at 
anchor  t  hroughout  1  he  day. 

At  S.:J0  a.  in.  .1  uly  22  worked  1  h  rough  the  ice  to  Icy  Cape,  anchoring 
there  at  12. .v>  p.  in.      Ice  still  heavy  to  the  northward   and    westward. 

On  July  2'),  there  appearing  to  he  little  or  no  change  in  the  ice, 
concluded  to  send  Lieutenant  Handel  in  the  native  boal  lo  carry  pro- 
visions  to  the  Bel vei I V  n  and  then  proceed  to  Point  Harrow  ami  coni- 
inunieate  with  Lieutenant  .larvis.  At  '.l.oo  a.  in.  Lieulenant  Hamlet 
slarled  with  4oo  pounds  of  (lour,  !Mj  pounds  of  corned  beef,  and  So 
poll  mis  of  beans  for  1  lie  lit  I r<  ih  r>  .  and  sonic  small  stores  for  Lieut ena nt 
.1  arvis. 

Uemained  at  anchor  off  lev  (ape  until  July  2'i,  the  ice  frequently 
compelling  us  to  shifl  anchorage  to  keep  clear.  At  4.2o  a.  in.  July 
2').  the  ice  appearing  to  have  opened,  stood  around  Hlossom  Shoals, 
ami  at  noon  laid  course  for  I'oinl  Melcher;  (j.20  p.  m.,  a  dense  fog  set- 
ting in  ami  the  water  shoaling,  came  to  anchor;  11  p.  in.,  the  fog 
lifting,  found  we  were  off  Wainwright  Inlet.  Gol  under  way  and 
slood  along  the  coast.      Snowing  at  intervals. 

At  2.oo  a.  in.  July  27,  off  I'oinl  Melcher,  went  behind  the  ground 
ice  and  anchored  to  await  the  drifting  by  of  the  floe  ice:  IJ.4U  p.  m., 
the  ice  looking  more  favorable,  stood  for  Point  Harrow  outside  the 
ground  ice.  We  passed  through  fields  of  heavy  ice  until  11  p.  m., 
ami  then  found  comparatively  open  water.  Saw  the  lUlnthn  in 
I'eari  May.  but  the  ice  would  not  allow  us  1o  approach  wilhin  10  miles 
of   her.  and  1  he  re  fore  did  not  stop. 

At  •")  a.  m.  July  2S  sighted  the  relief  station  at  Point  Marrow. 
Heavy  ground  ice,  with  open  water  inside,  extended  from  Point  Shed- 
don  to  Point  Marrow.  There  being  no  opening  through  it.  at  s  a.  in. 
made  fast  on  the  outside,  at  a  point  a  mile  to  the  southward  of  the 
slat  ion.  1  he  H<  <i  r  beinjj  the  first  vessel  to  arrive  1  his  season.  Lieuten- 
ant J  arvis  and  a  la  rye  party  came  across  the  ice  to  the  vessel.  As  he 
had  issued  rations  to  the  wrecked  men  until  the  oOth  of  July,  I 
directed  most  of  them  to  remain  where  they  were,  ashore,  until  the 
rat  ions  w  ere  consumed.  TweiHy-six.  however,  were  taken  on  hoard 
ini  med  lately. 

On  1 1 1  <  -  2 '. '  1 1 1  the  steam  whaler  Jt  uniirfft  arrived  and  made  fast  to 
the  ice  to  the  southward  of  us.  The  steamers  Fea.rh-xs  and  Xt  irjuiri 
appeared  to  the  eastward  of  Point  Marrow,  but  could  not  get  around 
the  point  on  account  of  the  ice.  Keeeived  news  from  the  \eifpoi'f 
thai  she  was  leaking  badly  and  needed  oakum,  spikes,  and  nails  to 
make  repairs.  These  articles  were  furnished  immediately.  Nothing 
was  heard  of  the  Jemi  it <■,  st  ill  to  the  east  ward.  If  it  had  been  known 
she  was   out    of  danger,  the  wrecked    men    could    have  been  taken  on 


132 


CRI'ISE    OF    THE    1".   s.    KEVENIE    Cl'TTEH     KHAR. 


board  and  the  lit  u  r  could  have  start  «•<!  on  the  return  trip  at  once. 
A>  ii  was.  I  tin Mi.irlil  i'  would  not  be  prudent  to  leave  until  I  was 
assured  of  her  safety.  On  July  :jn,  iw;  more  of  tlie  shipwrecked  men 
came  on  hoard,  increasing  the  number  to  '.t7.  In  the  afternoon  of  the 
*>*  >  1 1 1  there  were  laru'e  piece-,  of  ice  drifting'  aloni>'  wit  h  t  he  cui'ivni . 
Fearing  they  niiuhl  strike  the  vessel  and  pari  the  mooring  lino.  >zn\ 
under  way  and  steamed  into  an  indentat  ion  in  the  ground  ice  where 
1  lie  si  rn  iner  .1'iiiiin  Hi  was  made  fast.  A  suitable  mooring  place  w  as 
found  and  the  vessel  made  fast  t o  t he  ground  ice.  On  the  obth  I . i . - 1 1 - 
lenanl  Hamlet  arrived.  He  had  delivered  the  supplies  to  the  fitlr<- 
'/'/'.  ami  reported  thai  a>  soon  as  a  southwest  wind  came  to  clear 
away  the  ice  she  would  start  for  Port  Clarence  for  coal.  The  vessel 
was  in  yood  condh  ion. 

On  Auu'tisl  1  si  and  ~J<\  loose  ice  would  drift  in  and  pack  around  ihe 
vessel  where  she  lay  in  the  i  ml  en  1  at  ion  in  the  ice.  As  there  was  onh  a 
trifling  pressure,  no  danuer  was  anticipated.  Al  2  p.  in.  Au.u'usl  ■"■ 
came  a  sudden  pressure  of  the  ice,  the  four  forward  fasts  carried 
away,  and  the  vessel  forced  astern  about  five  feet.  The  pressure  then 
coining  auainsl  (lie  starboard  side  forced  the  porl  side  against  the 
iri'ound  ice.  A  poini  of  ice  under  water  abreast  the  engine  room.  The 
weakest  place  in  the  vessel,  a>  there  a  re  no  at  h  wart  ship  t  iinber»  l  here. 
forced  the  purl  side  in  sufticient ly  to  buckle  the  engine-room  tlooi' 
plates.  Men  were  immediately  senl  with  ice  chisels  and  the  ice  cut 
away.  As  soon  as  the  ice  was  removed  the  pressure  al  that  point 
ceased  and  the  floor  plales  dropped  hack  into  place.  The  alter  >ec- 
tion  of  the  rudder  was  sprung  aboul  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  The  ice 
was  cut  from  around  the  rudder  and  the  pressure  on  t ha1  removed. 
So  far  as  can  he  seen  (while  i  he  vessel  is  in  the  water)  no  material 
damage  was  done  by  the  nip.  A  vessel  less  strongly  const  r  net  ed  would 
ha  vc  I  )cen  crushed  al  once. 

When  the  weal  her  cleared  up  ii  could  be  seen  thai  ihe  pack  had 
swum;- in  upon  ihe  uround  ice.  Ihuiiii  in  the  indentation  was  lie- 
only  1  hinir  1  hal  saved  ihe  ■!<  mi/nth  and  ihe  Jit  ur.  Knowing  thai  if  a 
soiilhwol  u'ale  - 1 > i •  u 1 1 o ■  ii],  the  pack  would  auain  move  and  nothing 
could  save  the  vessel,  I  had  a  laru'c  quantity  of  provisions  bronchi  on 
deck  and  placed  >o  they  coidd  readily  be  passed  to  ihe  ground  ice  in 
the  event  of  another  nip.  The  ship's  papers  and  books  were  al-o 
packed  read.\  for  removal.  From  the  .'id  unlil  the  1  1th  of  An.iiiM  »ve 
remained  in  suspense.      On  the  morn  inn'  of  the  .'id   t  he  .A  mm   came  in 

-:_!/    to   the  eastward    of    Poini     Harrow.      During   the    fore u    lie- 

./'"///'.  /•''"/•' >>.  a  nd  \ '  ii-jiurf  ii'ol  around  Point  Harrow  and  came 
down  inside  the  ground  ice  to  a.breast  where  we  were.  Thoe  ve»el-. 
were  all  -diort  ot'  provisions— 1  he  A'  ifpnri  and  /''  ufh  ss  short  of  coal. 
The\  were  supplied  with  such  (plant  it  ies  a>  coidd  be  spared  from  the 
!'>■  Hill-    foi'   the    >ame    have   a!read\    been    senl    to   their  owners. 


CRUISE    OF    T1IK    [\  S.  REVEXl'E    Cl'TTER    MEAIi. 


133 


Several  days  were  spent   in  dragging   the  articles  over  the  very  rough 

ice  oil    sled>. 

()n  the  5th,  o'.il  reindeer  were  transferred  to  I  >r.  Marsh,  Oovern- 
nienl  school-teaehei',  who  also  represented  the  Presbyterian  mission. 
As  lie  was  without  provisions  to  maintain  the  herders,  and  the  camp 
equipage  was  worn  out,  no  provision  having  been  made  for  their  sup- 
port by  the  mission,  the  following  articles  were  given  them  from  the 
ship's  stores:  1  a  »<" »  primers,  l<»0  carl  ridges  (.4a-.  70),  \-j\  pounds  pow- 
der, i'  brooms,  5( >  pounds  soap.  '2  axes.  1  shovel,  I  box  copper  rivets, 
1  tern.  1  camp  stove,  -(,(l  pounds  pork.  -'in'  pounds  coffee,  17<1  pounds 
beans,  and   1  4<  >  pon  nds  sugar. 

()n  the  7t  li  an  allempt  was  made  to  blast  a  channel  through  the 
ground  ice  to  the  clear  water  inside.  After  expending  lot)  pounds  of 
powder  (1<H)  pounds  borrowed  from  tlie  X^irporf )  the  attempt  was 
given  up.  The  eifecl  upon  the  ice,  which  averaged  :•$<>  feel  in  thick- 
ness, was  so  slight  thai  sufficient  powder  could  not  be  procured  to 
blast  out  a  channel.  While  the  blasting  was  going  on.  Captain 
McKenna,  of  the  Ff-nrh-ss,  got  his  vessel  under  way  and  endeavored 
to  help  by  ramming  the  ice.      His  efforts  were,  however,  useless. 

On  the  14th  the  ice  offshore  commenced  to  move  rapidly  to  the 
northward.  On  the  morning  of  the  loth,  commenced  using  small 
blasts  of  powder1  to  remove  spur  pieces  of  ice  near  the  ship.  During 
the  morning  a  lead  broke  through  the  ground  ice  to  the  southward  of 
us.  In  the  afternoon  the  tee  offshore  commenced  to  disappear,  and 
the  pressure  on  the  vessel  diminished  considerably,  but  there  was 
>till  several  yards  of  ice  heavily  packed  between  us  and  clear  water-. 
A  strong  northeast  wind  coming  up,  all  sail  was  made  and  thrown 
aback  to  help  press  the  vessel  off.  At  ti.lo  p.  in.  the  F^n  fleas  and 
\~<  ii-j,t,!-:  got  under  way.  steamed  ou1  through  the  lead.  ;iud  came 
down  abreasl  of  us  with  the  intention  of  pulling  out  the  pieces  of  ice 
until  we  were  \'\-a\  .lust  ;is  1  hey  were  commencing  a  dense  fog  came 
up.  and  large  quantities  of  heavy  drifl  ice  commenced  to  come  in, 
obliging  them  to  stop  and  seek  shelter  from  the  ice. 

The  morning  of  the  10th  the  fog  lifted,  showing  clear  water  about 
:?oo  vards  distanl .  and  blasting  was  again  commenced  to  clear  away 
the  ice.  Lieutenant  .larvis  and  Dr.  Call  came  on  board  with  the  part 
of  the  l'»  I /•'  dt  /■''.-<  crew  that  had  been  at  the  station.  At  7.i'">  the 
./<  a n in  Hi  was  deal' of  the  ice  and  steamed  to  1  he  southward.  I  win-. 
surprised  to  see  her  leave  without  offering  to  assist  us,  but  I  after 
wards  learned  from  Captain  Xewth  that  he  was  ill  in  his  bunk  at  the 
time.  When  informed  thai  the  Ji-(inneH>  was  dear,  he  had  asked  the 
male  about  the  fjin,\  and  had  been  told  by  him  that  she  would  be 
clear  in  about  fifteen  minutes.  I'uder  these  circumstances  he  told 
the  male  to  take  the  Jen  n  in-He  to  a  safe  place. 

The  A'"-"7>o/7  was  at    anchor  at    Wallapi.  ■'<  miles  distant,  and  when 


184  CRUISE    OF    THE     I*.   S     REVENUE    Cl'TTER     BEAR. 


al  b' o'clock  Captain  Leavill  saw  t  ha1  the  lUnr  ha<l  uoi  moved,  lie 
<i-ol  his  \'csst'l  nuclei-  way  to  come  to  our  assistance.  lie  arrived  in 
time  to  make  fast  to  one  piece  of  ice.  and  when  that  was  out  of  the 
way  l  lie  lit  a  r  was  free,  a  1  id  steamed  loan  anchorage  ofl'  I  Jet'imc  Inlet . 
which  she  readied  al  1. ■">•">  p.  in.  Here  the  FinrU-xs  came  alongside 
ami  was  <i-i ven  1  •">  tons  of  coal.  Captain  Xewt  h  of  i he  .}<  a  ma  ff<  lieinu 
loo  ill  to  conlinin  with  his  vessel,  was  taken  on  board  for  passage 
home.  Mr.  C.  1  >.  IJrower.  Liebes's  au'enl  at  I'oinl  Harrow,  ilesired 
in  aeeompa  uy  Lieutenant  Jarvis  to  San  I'Tancisco  to  sat  isfaetori  1\ 
adjust  the  claims  on  account  of  the  shipwrecked  men.  and  ua-  a 'cm 
^'i\'en  passage.  The  (\ct'\-  herders  who  accompanied  .Mr.  Lopp  were 
also  Liiven  passage  to  their  homes. 

The  /•'<  1 1  i-li  ss  haviim  been  north  several  years,  some  of  her  crew 
desired  to  exchange  with  the  shipwrecked  men  who  were  willinu  to 
remain.  This  they  were  allowed  to  do.  At  '■'.-'>  a.  in.  Auii'usl  17.  uoi 
under  way  and  stood  toward  the  Sea  Horse  Islands.  Fou' sel  in  ami 
much  drift  ice  was  met.  and  at  -I  p.  m.  stood  to  southward  in  make 
the  laud.  At  7  the  l'o<j  lifted,  and  at  7."n  sighted  the  whaling  Meet  al 
anchor  to  1  he  east  ward  of  Sea  Horse  Islands.  Al  s..V>  anchored  near 
the  Heel,  consisting  of  t  he  AJi  ■'■mi  <hf.  I ' '«  1  r,  ,1 ',  ,;  .  / '!<  ,ir],,  i  nl '.  k'n  ■ 
Win.  lltiijliss.  Finrliss.  and  X<  if/inri.  The  men  of  the  crew  of  the 
lli  In  :li  ri    brought   by  us  from    I'oinl    Harrow    were  put  on    board  tlieir 

Vessel,    and    six   of    the    shipwrecked    lliell     left     to    join    whalillU'   \essels. 

The  /linr  remained  to  ".ism  the  people  on   the  ships  an  opportunity  to 
prepare  mail. 

(  Mi  the  morn  i  ii-'  of  l  he  1  si  h  t  w  o  sick  seamen  were  received  from  tin 
I!  'riiltfi  for  t  ransportat  ion  toa  hospital.  Al  1  J.  b  »  p.  in.  iroi  under  was 
and  si  ood  lo  the  wesi  ward,  and  al  1  _.  I1 '  anchoret]  near  1  lie  schooner 
Hi i in i a  in.  supply  \  esse]  for  .Mr.  C.  1  >.  I > rower's  stat  ion.  Finding  1  here 
was  an  ample  supply  of  pot  aloes  on  the  schooner,  and  the  supply  mi 
'  he  //,  i  ■  be  inn  e\  ha  listed.  I  purchased  t  well  ty- five  boxes  for  l  he  crew 
and  ihe  shipwrecked  men.  They  will  be  included  in  II.  Liebes  A 
Co. ">  hill.  Al  I..i.i^i|  under  way  ami  stood  for  Illossom  Shoal-  Al 
7  a.  in.,  bciiiti'  around  the  shoals,  laid  course  for  I'oinl  Hope,  which 
w  as  reached  at   -v--;i  i  a.   m.  on  the  l'i  it  h. 

(  om  m  u  n  icai  e<]  with  the  shore  and  learned  thai  on  the  previous  das 
I  he  schooner  Lmiisi  .1.  I\inini/.it\'  Seatlle.  ssasin  a  d  a  n  u'ei-oi  i  -  posi- 
tion :u  the  breakers  near  Cooper's  station.  -  miles  east  of  I'oinl  Ik 
Started  immediately  for  t  he  place,  a  ml  upon  arris' in,0.'  1  here  found 
vi-sM'i  broadside  on  t  he  beach  and  in  a  posit  ion  where  the  /»'•  <<  'could 
be  of  no  assistance  on  accoiini  of  the  shoal  water.  The  masteroi'  the 
vessel  eanie  on  boa rd  and  said  the  vessel  was  full  of  water  and  !  he 
caru'o  ruined.  He  recpiested  passage  for  himself  and  crew  to  Seal  t  le. 
and  boaissvere  lowered  and  sen!  ashore  for  them  and  their  effecls. 
A  iiiist\  surf  was  runuinu'.  and  il  was  with  difficulty  they  were  taken 
off.      Two    uatises    came    on    board    with   a    communication    from    Dr. 


s  I    f 


i   X 


CRUISE  OF  THE  V.   S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  BEAR. 


135 


Sheldon  Jackson,  addressed  to  whocvci'  was  in  charge  oi"  llic  reindeer 
near  Point  Hope,  directing  thai  the  deer  he  turned  over  to  the  two 
natives,  who  were  Government  herders.  Col  under  way  and  steamed 
to  Nelson's  whaling  station,  where  Lieutenant  Hcrtholf  went  ashore 
and  directed  thai  the  deer  he  delivered  according  to  Dr.  Jackson's 
request.  The  three  herders  who  had  heen  in  charge  of  ihe  t\cc}'  were 
taken  on  hoard  for  transportation  to  their  homes. 

The  master  of  the  wrecked  schooner  informed  me  that  the  year's 
supplies  for  the  three  missionaries  a  l  (ape  Blossom,  Kotzebue  Son  ml, 
were  lost  with  the  rest  of  the  cargo  of  the  vessel.  As  they  could  not 
live  through  the  winter  wit  hout  supplies.  1  deemed  ii  my  duty  to 
call  at  Cape  Blossom  to  inform  them  of  their  loss,  and  to  offer  them 
passage  to  St.  .Michael  or  elsewhere,  and  accordingly  the  vessel  was 
headed  lor  Cape  Blossom,  winch  place  was  reached  al  1  -.-< '  p.  m.  on  1  he 
•_Mst.  Lieutenant  Bertholf,  knowing  where  the  mission  was  located, 
was  sent  ashoiv  to  proffer  the  aid.  The  harks  Hoyden  Brown  and 
X'li'Hn  rn  Litjlit  were  at  anchor  off  the  Cape,  and  Captain  Whitesides, 
of  the  XorfJtf-nt  LujJil,  informed  me  thai  he  was  waiting  for  passen- 
gers and  had  nearly  the  full  number  engaged. 

The  Kotzehue  Sound  gold  rush  was  a  failure.  lie  had  heen  in  the 
sound  a  couple  of  months  and  had  not  heard  of  any  gold  strikes.  He 
estimated  that  at  least  three-fourths  of  the  2,00(1  people  who  were 
there,  many  of  1  hem  with  two  years' provisions,  would  return.  There 
were  live  harks  at  the  southern  end  of  Kotzebue  Sound  taking  in 
ballast  prepai  .'tory  to  taking  passengers  from  Cape  lUossom.  In  that 
case  there  will  he  no  lack  ol  transportation  for  those  who  desire  to 
re1  urn. 

The  schooner  ^Efiia,  of  San  Francisco,  having  losl  her  anchor,  was 
given  a  ooo-pound  kedge,  1  he  owners  at  San  Francisco  to  replace  it 
on  hoard  the  i'x nr  upon  her  arrival.  Al  11.45  p.  m.  Lieutenant 
Bertholf  returned  on  hoard.  The  missionaries,  having  obtained  sup- 
plies from  returning  miners,  were  going  to  remain  at  their  station 
during  the  winter.  Some  articles  needed  by  Lieutenant  Jarvis  to 
payoff  natives  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  for  services  in  the1  overland 
expedition  were  purchased  from  Captain  Whitesides.  of  t  he  X<>rth<-ni 
Li  *  I  hi . 

Lieutenant  Bertholf  reported  that  he  had  met  a  number  of  men 
ashore  who  claimed  to  be  stranded  miners  and  who  wished  a  passage 
on  the  Jli'ir.  As  the  vessel  was  already  overcrowded  and  there  were 
other  means  of  transportation  at  hand,  their  request  eoidd  nol  be 
granted. 

Al  l.-<)  a.  m.  on  the  _-'M  gol  under  way  for  Cape  Prince  of  Wales, 
which  was  reached  al  1"  p.  m.  the  same  day.  Rev.  W.  T.  Lop])  came 
onboard  to  settle  accounts  of  the  reindeer  portion  of  Ihe  overland 
expedition.  .Mr.  Lopp  said  that  by  the  terms  of  the  agreement  with 
Lieutenanl  Jarvis  the  Treasury  was  responsible  for  the  return  of  the 


136  CRUISE    OF    THE    U.   S.    REVENUE    ('UTTER     REAR. 


deer  lie  drove  to  Point  Iinrrow.  If  Lieutenant  .lards  ha«l  nol  made 
this  agreement  In-  would  lnii  have  uiven  up  the  <l<-<-r  or  none  with 
tlit'in.  Without  1 1 1 « -  r< •  i i n  1 « •< ■  r  ,- 1 1 1 •  1  tin-  assistance  i>i'  Mr.  Lopp  the 
relief  expedition  would  have  i>-ojie  no  fart  he  i'.  so  Lieiiteiiani  Jarvis 
was  obliged  to  accept  the  terms.  As  1  > 1 1 1  1. "it;  deer  had  been  returned 
by  the  Interior  Department  a.u'en1.  ami  there  was  no  prospeei  ot 
receiving  any  more  from  that  source.  In-  requested  thai  the  deer 
remaining  at  Point  Harrow  and  Point  Hope  he  returned  to  him  and 
Charlie  Art  isarlook.   pjs  head,  with  increase,  beiny;  due  Charlie. 

Tic-  captain  of  a  whaliuu  steamer  that  was  to  leave  in  a  few  days 
for  Point  Barrow  had  agreed  to  carry  Mr.  Lopp's  herders  to  that 
place.  I  accordingly  sent  diiections  to  Dr.  Marsli  to  turn  over  the 
lierd  to  Mr.  Lopp's  herders,  who  will  start  them  south  as  soon  as  the 
weather  is  favorable.  Mr.  Lopp  expects  to  be  reimbursed  for  the 
expense  of  driving  the  deer  back  to  his  mission.  The  herders  .-it 
Point   Hope  were  sent  orders  similar  to  those  sent  to  \)v.  Marsh. 

At  U.4-")  a.  m.  on  the  J.'Jd  pM  under  way  for  Port  Clarence,  which  was 
readied  at  !  p.  m.  Pound  steamers./"////'.  X' "'j/orf.  and  'i'hr^lrr 
and  the  bark  ./.  I).  V>  /<  rs  anchored  in  the  bay.  Captain  Sherman,  of 
the  wrecked  whaler  ( Jrm,  came  on  board  for  passage  down  :  also  Anton 
Roderik,  from  the  X>  n-jmrt.  At  s.i'a  <r«»1  underway  for  St.  Miehael. 
<)u  the  way  made  a  call  at  K  inus  Island,  and  at  Point  Podney  to  land 
( 'harlie  Art  isarlook. 

St.  Michael  was  reached  at  :i.4~>  a.  in.  on  the  L'dh.  The  vessels  in 
pori  were  boarded  and  examined.  Lieutenant  Jarvis  and  Lieuti  naiit 
IJerthoIf  went  on  shore  to  arrange  the  bills  owed  by  the  overland 
expedition  to  the  North  American  Trading  and  Transportation  Com- 
pany and  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company.  Kijjfht  of  the  shipwrecked 
whalers,  having  obtained  employment  ashore,  left  llm  vessel.  The 
business  ashore  Im-milt  finished,  at  1  1 .  ]~>  p.  m.  August  id  uot  under 
way  for  I'ualaska.  which  was  readied,  after  rather  a  roiiidi  passage. 
at  l.o.-)  p.  hi.  August  :il.  II.  M.  S.  riii-'ismil  was  found  in  port,  and 
on  the  I'd  of  September  II.  M.S.  .  1  iiij/hidii  and  //•///•//.*  arrived.  The 
usual  courtesies  wen-  exchanged  with  each. 

The  boiler  was  blown  down  and  [(reparations  made  for  coaling  and 
water  inn1  ship.  At  1.1a  p.  in.,  having  I'm  i  shed  watering  and  coaling. 
and  all  preparation-,  eompleted.  cast  oil"  from  the  wharf  and  -teamed 
out  of  the  harbor.  At  \.~>~>  p.  in.,  beine.  through  Cnalua  Pass,  vet 
coin^e  I'm!- ('ape  Hattery.  Polish  weather  was  experienced  the  lir-, 
four  day-  out  :  after  t  hat  moderate  and  fo^.uy.  Waddah  Island  was 
siuh'ed  at  l'.  1 .")  p.  m.  September  1_.  and  a  stop  was  made  to  commu- 
nicate wit  h  t  he  I  )epart  incut  by  telegraph.  Port  Tow  -  use  ml  was  reached 
at  -  a.  in.  Pith.  A  dense  to-'  and  thick  -moke  compelled  us  toandior 
until  >'>  a.  in.  Then,  the  foy  partially  lifting,  u'ot  under  way  for  Seat- 
tle, which  was  readied  at    11  a.  m.,  September  PJ.  after  an  absence  of 


CRUISE    OF    THE    I".  S.   REVENUE    (TTTEK    BEAR. 


187 


nine    months  and  sixteen   days,  niosl    of   the   time  spent    in  a   dreary 
country  and  very  inclement  weather. 

The  officers  ami  crew  bore  the  monotonous  isolation  with  the  great- 
est patience,  complaints  boiny;  almost  unheard  of.  The  courage,  for- 
titude, and  pei-severanee  shown  by  the  members  of  the  overland 
expedition  is  deserving  of  the  highest  coinniendat  ion.  Start inu- over 
a  route  seldom  traveled  before  by  do»'  sleds,  with  a  herd  of  over  4-00 
reindeer  to  drive  and  care  for,  they  pushed  their  way  through  what 
at  limes  seemed  impassable  obstacles,  across  frozen  seas,  and  over 
snow-clad  mountains,  with  tireless  energy  until  Point  Harrow  was 
reached  and  1  lie  object  of  the  expedition  successfully  accomplished. 

I  respectfully  recommend  liiat  the  heroic  services  of  First  Lieut. 
1).  11.  Jarvis.  Second  Lieut.  K.  1'.  Bertholf,  and  Sunj\  S.  .!.  (all 
should  meet  with  such  recognition  as  the  1  )epart  iiient  sees  fi1  to 
bestow. 

As  mentioned  in  my  letter  of  June  i'-'S.  1  S'.is,  Rev.  W.  T.  Lopp  and 
Charlie  Arlisarlook,  who  ijave  up  their  herd  of  reindeer,  left  their 
families,  and  accompanied  the  expedition  to  Point  Barrow,  are  deserv- 
ing of  substantial  rewards  for  the  sacrifices  they  made  and  the  hard- 
ships t  hey  end  urod. 

Respectfully,  yours,  F.  Tittle. 

( 'a pin  i  n .  R.   ( '.  S. , 
Com nunuliiKj  I'.  S.   Rpretuif-  ('iiih  r  Bear. 

The  SK(   UETARY    OK    THE    TREASURY, 

W'nslu'uij/nn.    I).    ('. 


I  .  s.  Revenue  Cutter  Bear. 
Sniffle,    Wnsh..  September  !■'.  IMS. 
Sii;:    In   accordance   with    verbal    orders   received    from   yourself,    I 
have  the  honor  to  submit   the   following  summary  of  medical   reports 
for  the  time  during  which  !   have  been  in  charme  of  that  department, 
from   December  1").   1S'.i7.  to  Septem  ber  la,  IS'.iX,  both  inclusive: 

Whites    male  i                            .    ...    .    .. .  51  s 

Women  and  children  <  white                    .    .....   ... i-\ 

Natives    nudes  i  . . .          .  _  _ . _    ....  75 

Nativ  s    women  ami  children  i                     ... 'J:>5 

Officers  and  crew  ...    CSC 

Ti  'till  number  treated     .      ...    ._      .    ....    .    ...    .... 1.557 

The  prevailing  diseases  were  as  follows:  Consumption,  pneumonia. 
pleurisy,  heart  disease,  gastritis,  tonsilitis.  diarrhea,  constipation. 
dyspepsia,  neuralgia,  muscular  rheumatism,  tubercular  irlands  and 
joints,  gonorrhea.,  syphilis,  orchitis,  synovitis,  cystitis,  eczema,  pedic- 


13*       CRUISE  OF  THK  U.  S.  REVENUE  CUTTER  HEAR. 


lili,  minor  injuries  to  limbs  and  head,  uterine  diseases,  la  grippe, 
nasal  catarrh,  conjunctivitis,  and  scabies. 

One  death  at  I'nalaska,  Mrs.  Shaishnakoff,  aijod  do,  cancel'  of  the 
stomach  and  liver. 

The  crew  at    present  are   in  excellent    health,  with  none  on  the  sick 

list. 

Kespect  fully,  yours, 

K.  II.  Woodruff, 

.l.ssis/a nf  Sit f<jro/i.    I  .  S.   Re  re  nut    differ  ]><<i r. 

(.'apt.  Francis  Tuttlf,  li.  ('.  S.. 

Com  iiHUtdtny. 


APPPX  DIX. 


I'.  s.  Revenue  steamer  Beak, 

Cape    \'<(ncou n r,  Alaska,   December  1'!,  1897. 

Sir:  Vou  are  detailed  to  take  charge  of  the  overland  party  from 
the  Bear  for  the  relief  of  the  whalers  at  Point  Harrow.  Lieut.  E.  1'. 
Bertholf,  Revenue-Cutter  Service,  Surg.  S.  J.  Call,  and  F.  Ivoltchoff 
will  comprise  the  party  from  the  vessel.  Inclosed  are  instructions 
from  the  Department  by  which  you  will  be  guided  as  far  as  practica- 
ble. They  are  so  full  as  to  cover  every  point  and  leave  me  little  to 
add.  The  party  will  be  under  your  sole  control,  and  you  will  make 
such  disposition  of  them  as  may  seem  most  advisable  to  you.  under 
any  and  all   circumstances. 

Whenever  it  becomes  necessary  to  employ  natives  and  their  outfits 
of  dogs  and  sleds,  or  procure  provisions  from  them,  make  a  note  of 
the  art iele*.  and  amounts  promised  for  same;  if  practicable,  give  the 
natives  a  copy  to  present  when  the  Bear  is  met,  and  the  articles  will 
be  delivered. 

The  Department  does  not,  in  its  letter,  mention  the  whalers  to  the 
eastward  of  Point  Harrow.  If  you  hear  from  them,  use  your  own 
judgment  as  to  what  can  be  done  for  their  relief.  At  this  distance  and 
utter  lack  of  knowledge  of  their  circumstances,  it  is  impossible  for 
me  to  give  any  directions.  I  shall  leave  Pnalaska  as  early  as  there 
will  be  any  possible  chance  to  get  through  the  ice.  If  St.  Michael  be 
open  I  shall  call  there.  If  not.  Port  Clarence  and  Cape  Prince  of 
Wales  will  be  visited  in  search  of  news  of  the  expedition.  I  hope  to 
reach  Point  Hope  early  in  July.  Should  any  of  the  whalers  be  there, 
will  land  provisions  enough  to  last  them  until  I  return  from  Point 
Harrow.  If  any  pail  of  the  expedition  should  be  along  the  shores,  I 
suggest  you  direct  them  to  make  smudges  of  heavy  smoke  to  attract 
attention  on  board  the  Bear,  should  she  be  sighted.  A  good  lookout 
will  be  kept  from  the  vessel  for  such  signals.  In  conclusion,  any 
matters  that  may  come  up  that  are  not  covered  by  these  instructions 
are  left  to  your  own  judgment,  and  whatever  you  do  will  meet  with 
the  approval  of  the  Department.  If  opportunity  offers,  communicate 
with  meat  Pnalaska.  and  leave  information  as  to  your  progress  at 
Port   Clarence,  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,   Kotzebue  Sound,  and   Point 


140 


<  Kt'lSE    uK     I'll 


-.    KKVEMK    <  TTTEK     HEAR. 


Hope  to  be   | < i < •  k < ■  < I    tip  «ui    the  arrival   of   tin*    />"//■   a1    these   places 
Also,  if  possible,  send  copies  of  all  communications  to  the  Depart  ment 
Kespecl  fully,   yours. 

F.  TUTTLE. 

Captain,    J'.    C.   .S'..    Cam nin n<! "i inj. 
First   Lieut.   i>.   11.  .Iakvis,   K.  ( '.  S., 

I'.   S.    Ii\  /-in  111    Stiiiunr  l!i  n  r. 


Overland  Relief  Kxpki»ii  i<  in. 

k'/ijil a  injii mufe.  Ala.ska.  I ')>-<■<  /,,/„  ,-  .'</.  /v.'-y 
Sir:  Not  beinu1  able  To  obtain  dogs  at  this  place,  as  expected,  and 
the  team>  on  yours  and  Koltchotf's  sleds  being  nearly  worn  out.  1  will 
go  on  ahead  with  my  sled  and  Dr.  ('all's  sled  and  leave  you  and  Kolt- 
clioff  with  Alexis  Kalenin  to  come  mi  as  soon  as  the  necessary  dogs 
return.  Lose  no  time  in  following  and  come  direct  to  Andreafski.  on 
the  Yukon,  and  from  t  here  to  St .  .Michael.  [will  make  what  arrange- 
ments I  can  top  you  at  both  places,  and  should  you  nol  reai'h  either 
place  before  I  leave.  I  will  leave  all  necessary  instructions  for  your 
guidance.  Anything  you  may  need  for  your  journey  can  be  obtained 
by  drawing  on  the  Alaska  Com  me  renal  Company  at  both  places. 
Kespecl  fullv.   vours. 

D.     II.    J.XKVIs. 
First   Lit  nt,  mint,    /,*.    (  '.   ,s'.. 
(  ■nmimimliinj   On  rtami   /'<  t'nf  /•/  lifimi. 

Second    Lieut.    K.    I'.    IiKKTFH  >LK.    K.    <  '.   S. 


<>verlaxi>   Relief  Kxpeditiox. 

/  'inilakl,  ,  /.  .  llash-a.  .hmmirij  .L  ' 
Sir:  I  inclose  a  list  of  provisions  thai  I  have  left  with  Mr.  Kdwiu 
Knglestadt.  of  this  place,  to  be  filled,  and  which  are  to  be  1a  ken  across 
the  portage  be!  ween  Notion  Sound  and  Kschollz  I  Jay  to  Cape  I  Jlossoni, 
Kot/ebue  Sound.  1  have  engaged  Mr.  Knglesiadt  and  ihree  teams  for 
the  trip,  and  upon  your  arrival  you  will  lake  charge  of  the  outfit  and 
proceed  with  i  Iii-iii  to  Cape  Blossom.  A  little  north  of  the  Ksk'mio 
rendezvous  ai  thai  place  is  Mr.  Robert  Samins.  a  (Quaker  missionary, 
and  you  wid  awaii  there  my  arrival  or  smdi  orders  as  !  may  send  to 
you.  I  will  leave  here  in  the  morning  for  (ape  I'rince  of  \\  ales. 
\'er\"  re>|  M'd  fullv. 

I).     II.     .L\K\  Is. 

First    l/n  nt,  mini.    /.'.     '  '.    -S.  . 
Cnmmamlimj   On, -taint   F'tnf    F.r/„  <l  i*  in,, . 
second  Lieut.   L.   I".   Kertik  »lk.  R.  C.  S. 


CKl'ISK    OF    THE 


REVEXCE    (TITER    BEAK. 


141 


List  of  i>n,rixioi,xti>  he  taken  t<>  Cape  Bl< 


Flour 
Butter 

Rice    . 

Beans 

Sugar 

Tea 

Tobaco 

Bacon  . 


Coffee    

Bread. -    

One-half  box  baking  powder. 

(  hie-half  tin  matches. 

10  pounds  smoking  tobacco  and  cob  pipes,  for  nie  personally. 


r,()0 
,'0 
VI 

S(| 

,10 

40 

loo 

'to 

ion 


Overland   Belief  Kxpeditiox, 

Fond  Rod nt  ij,  Alaska,  January  '".  USHS. 
Sir:  You  will  remain  hero  until  the  arrangements  to  move  Ail  isar. 
look's  reindeer  herd  are  completed,  and  will  then  proceed  by  way  of 
Port  Clarence  with  this  herd  to  join  me  on  the  north  side  of  ('ape 
Prince  of  Wales  ai  the  point  where  t lie  reindeer  herd  of  that  place  is 
located,  which  is  about  l'o  miles  distant   from  the  cape. 

1  will  leave  for  that   point  this  morning,  and  you  will  follow    with  as 
lit  t  ie  delay  as  possible. 

Kcspeet  fully,  yours.  1).   IL.Iarvis. 

Firs!  La  nU  ik i nl.  R.  (.'.  S.. 
( 'oni  mo  nd  i  ikj   ( )r<  rla  iid  Rilaf  F.rpi  d  dion. 
Surg.   S.   ,|.   «  ALL.    11.   C,   S. 


<  )  V  E R  RAM)  REL]  E  F  K X  P E  I)  IT  [OX. 
('"jti  Rlos.som,  Alaska,  Ffhrna  nj  /J,  18'^H. 
Sir:  You  will  remain  at  this  place  until  the  arrival  of  the  reindeer 
herd  in  charge  of  Mr.  \Y.  T.  Lopp,  and  consult  with  him  as  to  ils 
further  progress  to  Poim  Barrow.  Should  the  necessity  arise  you 
will  proceed  with  the  herd,  but  if  not.  after  determining  the  route  it 
shall  take  and  seeing  it  well  stalled,  you  will  proceed  to  Point  I  Tope 
for  further  instructions.  I  would,  suggest  that  the  route  along  or 
near  the  coast  to  Kivalena  and  then  across  to  the  northward  of  Cape 
Beaufort  would  seem  advisable,  in  that  the  herd  at  all  times  will  be 
within  reasonable  communication  with  Poim  Hope.  Turn  over  to 
Air.  Lopp  the  provisions  at  this  place  and  make  any  other  arrange- 
ments he  may  need.  i  will  proceed  to  Point  Barrow  along  the  coast, 
and  will  endeavor  ■  o  have  communication  opened  between  t  hat  place 
and   Point    Nope. 

Respeet  fully,  your*.  I).   II.  Jarvis. 

Firs/  Li>  Ft  tied,  R.   C,  S.. 
(Join  ma  nd  i  tuj  Or/  rla  nd  RFtif  f  Fvpt  d  d  ion . 
Second   Lieut.   K.    P.   Bektuolf.   R.  C.  S. 


142 


CKl'ISE    OF    Till 


KEVENT'E    (UTTER    HKAU. 


OVERLAND    KELIEK    K.XI'EDITION. 

Point   //o/»,    Alaska.   Marrl,   .7,    /.W.V. 

SlK:  I  will  leave  here  lo-day,  loget  her  wit  h  Surgeon  Call,  tor  Point 
Harrow.  You  will  remain  liere  and  care  Cor  ail  matters  relating  to 
the  overland  relief  expedition  in  this  region,  and  carry  out  tin  plans 
we  have  discussed  for  the  return  of  Mr.  W.  T.  Lopp  and  the  deer 
herders  in  the. spring,  and  also  for  1  he  assistance  of  the  members  of 
the  wrecked  crews  from  Point  Harrow  to  this  place,  and  noon  iheir 
arrival  make  arrangements  for  tlieir  care. 

(live  your  at tention  to  the  illicit  distilling  of  spirituous  liquor  bv 
the  natives  here,  and  take  such  action  as  you  may  deem  necessary 
for  the  enforcement  of  law.  A  particularly  noticeable  murder  was 
committed  here  last  fall  by  two  natives,  Avulik  and  Shukiirana. 
Take  such  action  as  you  may  deem  necessary  for  apprehending  the 
murderers  and  collect  inu'  evidence.  1  will  communicate  with  you  from 
Point  Harrow  whenever  possible,  and  keep  you  informed  of  affairs 
there  if  occasion  offers.  I'pon  the  arrival  of  the  (  .  S.  revenue  cutlei 
//'"/•.  report  to  ("apt.  F.  Tultle,  commanding. 
Kespecl  fully,  yours, 

I).     II.     .lAKVIS. 
First    I jii  ali -tut ill ,    /,.    ('.    s. 
(  'out  ma  tal iiaj   ()firtanil   Rita!    F-i'/xil // ton . 
Second   Lieut .    K.    P.    Hektholk,   P.  ('.  S. 


Cai-e  Smythk,    Alaska.  March   ."■>.   /sn.s\ 
|)K\i;    SIR:    The    crews    of    the    Orra,    Freeman,    lie! rider*-,    and    llie 
survivors  of  t  lie  .V"  rurclt  would  respect  fully  ent  real  you,  in  compain 
wit  li  I  he  doctor  of  t  he  Hear,  to  visit  our  quarters  and  inspeel  thein.lo 
do  what  lays  in  your  power  to  obtain  a  change  for  us. 

We  think  thai  some  arrangement  can  be  made.  We  have  no  facili- 
ties for  keeping  ourselves  clean.  There  is  one  man  at  present  under 
the  care  of  Dr.  Marsh  for  scurvy,  ami  another  man  is  confined  to  his 
bed  with  all  the  symptoms  of  scurvy.  In  .justice  to  all  we  have  no 
complaints  to  make,  but  there  are  evils  which  we  can  not  avoid,  but 
which  you  ca  n  reel  it'y. 

James   McDonald. 

For  t/i'    '  >  ■<■". 
Phil.    Manx. 

For  fin    F<<<  mo 
John   Keeefe, 

For  the  Het,;,h  ,-,  . 
Titos.   <T    Lord, 

For  tltt'   Xa  ra  relt. 


CKl'ISE    OF     I'll!'.     I.   S.    REVENUE    CUTTER     HEAR.  1  4.9> 

I'oixt   Harrow,  Alaska.  ./>///'  -'.  is'.is. 

Sir:  Herewith  we  have  the  honor  to  submil  the  resllll  of  the  post- 
mortem  exaniinntion  held  on  Hie  body  of  Phillip  .Mann,  wlio  died 
suddenly  yesterday  evening: 

The  bruin,  luniks,  stomach,  liver,  kidneys,  intestines,  and  bladder 
were  normal.  The  heart  was  very  inucli  enlarged,  pale,  and  non- 
resistant,  with  large  accumulations  of  fat  around  the  base,  and  the 
walls  were  twice  the  normal  thickness.  The  aurieulo-ventricular 
opening  and  mitral  valve  were  defective  and  showed  many  calcareous 
deposits. 

I'i-diii  the  above  conditions   we   conclude   thai    the   subject    died  of 

fatty  heart. 

Uespect  fully,  yours,  S.  .1.  (all. 

Su t'ljt  nn,    II.   (  '.  S. 

II.  K.  .Marsh.  M.  I).. 

..  issisfing. 
First    Li'-ut.   I).  II.  JARVis,   K.  ('.  S.. 

<  '■  im  nut  ml  i  mj    <  )fi  r'ut  ml    L'iIu  !'  I\.r/j<-ti  il  inn  . 


An;, II  III   of    thr   rrin.lrrr 

Received  from  Artisarlook..    ....    . 

Bought  at  Point   Rodney   . .    . . 

Received  from  Mr.  \V.  T.  Lopp  et  ai 
Bought  at  ( 'ape  Prince  of  Wales 
Receive  I  i'r<  an  Taotuk.    ...      .... 

Received  from  G-overnment  herd 
Received  trom  (iolovin  Bav  herd 


d  in  Hi 


■In  ml  I'.rjx'ilition 


Losi  and  killed  i  n  route 

Killed  tor  food  at  Point  Barrow 

Died  at  Point  Barrow   ... 


V-V.', 


Fawns  horn  at  Point  Barrow- 
Fawns  died  at  Point  Barrow 

Remaining  at  Point  Barrow  . 
Received  at  Point  Hope 
Killed  fi  >r  food  .  . . 


448 

fi(i 

ISO 

1 

'247 

201 
'2.-)  4 
(54 
—    100 


:m 


Fawns  horn  at  Point  Hope 
Fawns  died  at  Point  Hope  . 


Remaining  at  Point  Hope . 

Total  deer  remaining  at  Point  Barrow  and  Point  Hone 


48 
439 


144 


ckitsi:  of  the   r.  s.  kevenfe  cutter   hear. 


overland   Relief   Kxfedition. 

Ratal   Ratlnoij.   Alaska.  .1  a  n  nil  r  if   .'".    l*!)Km 
Received  from  Artisarlook  (Charlie),  native  of  t  his  place.   \ '■>'.)  t'ei 
(Ice r  for  l  lu-  use  (»!'  1  he  overland  relief  expedit  ion  1o  Point    Harrow  . 

These  reindeer  a  re  given  to  1  he  l"n  i  ted  States  Treasurv  I  )epart  nie 
with  1  he  understanding  thai  1  hey  are  to  he  replaced  in  the  summer 
ISMS,  i(io-(.j  j1(.r  with  the  estimated  increase  in  the  herd  for  ihe  comii 
spring,  a  bo  in  ni  fawns,  thus  making  -1  •">  reindeer  in  all  to  he  replace 
Should  this  nol  be  done  the  coming  season,  the  inci'ease  of  the  |'< 
lowing  year  will  have  to  he  considered  in  the  settlement. 

I).    II.    J  \  i;  vis. 
First   Lit  aft  mi ///,    /-,'.    ('.   S. . 
( 'mil  nin  in!  i  hi/   ( )n  riti  in'   I't  lit  I    L.r/  n  1 1 1 1  it  1 1, . 


OVERLAND     RELIEF    KX  PEDITI  ( >N. 

('apt    I'rnift    ft'   Waits.   Alaska.  Janiia  iS'.iS. 

Received  from  Mr.  \V.  \Y .  Lopp,  represent  inn  the  American  M 
sionary  Association.  -'.<-  reindeer  for  the  use  of  t  he  overland  reli 
expedition  to  Poinl    Barrow.  Alaska. 

These  reindeer  are  given  to  t  he  1'iiiled  States  Treasury  Deparime 
with  the  understanding  t  hat  they  are  to  be  replace* I  in  the  summer 
1S!)S,  together  with  the  estimated  increase  in  the  herd  for  the  comii 
season,    about     14<»    fawns,    thus    making    4-'!i'    reindeer    in    ali    to 
replaced. 

Should  this  not  he  done  the  coming  season,  the  increase  of  ihe  l'< 
lowing  year  will  have  to  be  considered  in  the  sett  lenient . 

I).    II.  Jarvis. 
Fi rsi  Lit  alt  naiil.   R.    ( '.  s.. 
',  'on:  n:a  ndiiKj  ( >r<  rla  ml   RtiaJ   L.fjn  a  :l  n  >>i 

C 


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